djratlif

I have a tank that only holds 15 as well, the owners manual says it should be 21 gallons or something but it certainly doesn't. Ran it out of gas when I thought I had miles left to go.

After rebuilding mine I still have no gas gauge, unfortunately I don't know how to repair it either.

I would check the sliders as mentioned before, the pins get stuck and the caliper can only push on one side of the rotor.

the black was originally connected to the short blue/red stripe wire. When I got done it connected straight to the ground wire from the pump. A word of advise if you do plan on rebuilding it, use PTFE coated wire if I remember correctly. The gas will eat most wire insulators from what I've heard, and bare wires in the tank are a no-no.

Search Fuel Disaster and you will find my thread with all the pics I have

Glad to see somebody could make use of the write up I did on mine. The sending unit and pump assembly is pretty easy to rebuild with materials around the shop/garage.

Just ordered myself a set of these for Monday from a local vendor, I'll post pictures and measurements after I install them next weekend.

As soon as I get it home I can let you know. I have a need for manual lockers, and the grill/lamps up front. Other than that It would all be spare stuff for me. From what my buddy said it has 33's on it as well with aftermarket wheels. I have to look at those as well, but i can't stuff 33's yet so they'd be up for grabs as well.

Well then it's settled, I am going to buy the truck and see whether I can get it running well enough to plow with. If not I will pull the plow and salvage whatever parts that I can. The plow will be on the pathfinder before next snow season arrives.

I just found an older D21 pickup that has been used as a plow truck the past few years. I can get the truck and plow for $500 total so I know I can get my money out of it, just wondering if anyone here had put a plow on their Pathfinder and how did it handle it? The plow is a small blade, maybe 6.5' wide but without the heavier/upgraded torsion bars I wouldn't want to break anything. Thanks in advance, Derek

Just did this yesterday, very very happy that I did and that this write up was available. The hole in the frame bracket was about 1.5x the normal size allowing the bar to slap around in there and make an awful clatter. Thanks for the info, any longer and I fear it would have been the end of the bar and possibly causing an accident.

Fixed the strut rod bushings on the passenger side today, and had to weld in some new metal where the rod had wallowed out the hole. The truck was making a clicking and popping noise in the front end especially noticeable when braking or accelerating rapidly. I decided after three months of driving with the noise to take a look after seeing the write up in the "How To" section. This is what I found, sorry about the bad pics This is the sleeve that was around the rod. Just made it through the sleeve and started on the rod. The rod was salvageable, with only a few dings in one place. The bracket on the frame however was not in as "good" shape. Luckily a buddy is a welder and happened to be in my garage helping me. After cleaning up the frame bracket and removing the old cup looking pieces that were tacked on, we cleaned up the old washers to use as reinforcements on each side. No pics of the process because my hands were greasy and everything was wet from snow (we got about 2 feet today alone). Here is the finished product, slapped some black spray paint on for some protection as well. Now its time to do the other side along with all 4 ball joints and driver's side sway bar link.

That looks fun, just imagine the possibilities. I can see my little Frontier tearing up a sand dune right now...

Just put on some Goodyear Authority LT31x10.5R15 and they are doing me just fine. They are not nearly as nice as a good set of Firestone Winterforce though in my opinion. My 2wd Frontier was an animal in the snow with four of those

I got the Champagne/tan color with a redneck black strip on the bottom.

NY has an emissions inspection still, but the only thing they inspect is whether the on-board monitors have all reset, ie. o2 sensor, evap system, egr function, catalyst function, and that there are not any DTCs stored in the ecu. This is all done by plugging the vehicle into an inspection station. There is no actual meter that reads the emission output at the tailpipe like in other stricter states. Also, this emission inspection only applies to vehicles 1996 model year and newer as the computers at inspection stations only read OBDII systems. My Pathfinder had a new inspection sticker without any problems. All thanks to a friend that overlooked the blown shocks, almost blown out ball joints, tore up brake rotors and pads up front, missing catalytic converter/exhaust pipes, dripping power steering lines and numerous other oil/trans fluid leaks. Man, I think I still owe him a few beers for that one...

I am not saying emissions will be better, in fact they will be worse if I'm not mistaken. It will however trick the computer into working the way that you want performance and power wise. The downstream O2 sensor has to read less than the upstream sensor or it will trigger a CEL for ineffecient catalyst as Kafike stated about the sentras. So by pulling the downstream sensor out of the main stream of the exhaust it effectively reduces the amount of oxygen going past the sensor as it would if a catalytic converter was there. This is just a trick to get around the emission test here in NY where the CEL is the only thing that is used for emission inspection. However, as I mentioned before, if you are in a state with the "sniffer" devices that are placed in the tailpipe during inspection this will not help. It doesn't work like a catalytic converter does to reduce emissions, it hides that there is a problem with the emissions. Hope this helps a little, D

I had to do this with my 2000 Frontier, I then had a low catalyst efficiency code spring up. Solved that by buying a set of spark plug anti foulers from napa for $6. These anti fouler plugs then are drilled to receive the downstream sensor, effectively removing it from the exhaust stream enough to trick the sensor into thinking the catalytic converter is working fine. Sorry for the brief explanation here as I'm currently surfing the net at work lol but it is explained online in several other spots if you search for it. This won't help if you live in a state where the "sniffers" are used in the tailpipe for the emissions inspection either. Helped out immensely here in NY though.

Saw something mentioned about fires in another post, so I searched and found this thread. Man am I glad I did. The plenum in mine was full of leaves and other crumbly combustible goodness, along with the blower motor itself being filled to the top. The heat has gotten much better, along with peace of mind for me. For only taking 25 minutes on my lunch break I would highly recommend doing this on your rig if you haven't. Thanks again guys.

Threw on some Goodyear Authority 31x10.50x15 tires on, way better than the old and dry BFG All Terrains I had on. Awesome traction so far.

Mine just dangles as well, previous owner must have snapped it off at some point and neglected to fix it.