djratlif

Where are you located in Upstate? Anywhere up near Watertown and I could show you a few spots.

Same as the strut rod bushings on the front of the WD21, I had to weld in new replacements when I changed them. Used a couple of bearing races to get the job done.

Your engine compared to mine is like night and day. If the truck has been in the salt belt like mine then the studs will be rusted in and nothing will budge them. Had to drill for hours to replace mine without egging the holes out horribly.

The dealership I called is being a real pain and not doing anything for me, looks like a call to nissan to see what is going on here

We hit a record here in Watertown, NY too. The coldest place in the lower 48 states. -34 F here this morning. I was the only person with a truck that started here in the parts dept at the dealership I work at. Guess they should have bought Nissans not General Motors....

Hoping to have this done sometime in the near future, shutting the belt in the door is really getting old. Just contacted the local dealership to have them start ordering parts.

Aftermarket gas caps seem to lead to problems with the evap system from what I have seen on Chevrolet models we work on at the dealership. The aftermarket ones must allow a little air to be introduced into the system or something. Might not be the same for Nissan though

Mine were egged out too, just welded in a nice patch with some large washers and new bearing cones like mentioned above. The nuts on the end of the strut rods were much easier to remove once they were heated due to the nylon lock ring in the nut. (didn't see that at first, what a pain to remove after 200k worth of rust)

I did mine last week, took about 25 mins because I forgot how I did the other. The passenger side only took 15 minutes the first time. Be careful if your door panels are getting soft/old. The push pins ripped through the particle board on my passenger side on about 4 of them.

That is reassuring, I didn't want to waste money on parts that don't fit well. I'll have to get them in along with the rest of the pieces I will need before the summer comes around.

I am wondering if anyone has done any work with the body other than cutting and trimming it down. I was looking to get the rust taken care of this summer when I get time but not sure if it is worth it. I was eyeballing the rocker panels they list from Sherman Auto body parts and the rear wheel arches. These with some other odds and ends would clean the old girl up a bit. The rockers are going to need welding, which I have access to and a few people who run them as well. Anyone ever use these or any other replacement panels?

Anybody seen the latest creation from Kawasaki Yet? The bike is a true piece of engineering art. They have a few videos of it on Cycleworld.com. A one liter bike with a supercharger to boot, they are claiming in excess of 300 hp on the track only model. The thing looks like it eats tires but it makes me drool every time I see it. If I only had the $25K to go and buy one now.... http://www.cycleworld.com/2014/11/04/kawasaki-ninja-h2r-supercharger-track-bike-dyno-run-exclusive-video/

I'll have to check under the box and see, I think it is the thin style from what I've seen in the pictures of the replacement parts. Thanks for the help, winter here without all speeds is getting really old.

Once again working on my "oldest" Nissan I have, 2000 Frontier base model with manual everything. This blower motor works on high but not the other settings so I am assuming it is the blower resistor. I have pulled the one in the Pathfinder to clean it out and remove fire hazard material, but the Frontier seems to be in another spot I can't locate. Anyone here have any idea where they are? I pulled the glove box and didn't notice it when I cleaned the squirrel cage on the blower motor. Appreciate the help, and sorry for the non-pathfinder question haha. Derek

If anyone is wondering about this besides me, it doesn't work. The mounting bolt holes are about a half inch closer together on the D21 hardbody alternator. On the other hand the connector for the voltage regulator is the same between D21 and D22 pickups with the exception of wire gauge being different on one side. Back to charging again, although it is charging at 15.07-15.15 volts now.

Finally put my 2000 Frontier back on the road yesterday with a fresh battery and full tank of gas. Maiden voyage was great, and the next one, but later in the day when I flicked on the headlights things got pretty hairy. First the truck wouldn't start at the gas station, then after jumping it the thing fell flat on its face. After getting it parked at a friend's parents' house I started looking and I think an alt from the d21 4cyl will fit into my d22 4cyl. It shows them as being 10 amps less on the d21 but will it really matter if I don't use electronics much? I have manual windows and locks, manual trans, and manual heat controls. Basically wondering if anyone has done it or tried it. Thanks in advance for the help guys, Derek

I always use never-seize on the threads myself, although I live in an area covered in salt half of the year. They usually rot together anyway and I have a hell of a time getting them off. If its falling off though I would apply some lok-tite. The thread locker usually helps keep the threads from corroding together as well from what I've seen.

I had mine resurfaced on my Frontier with 220K miles, cost $20 US and has been smooth ever since.

I didn't think of that. Either way I got them out and replaced the whole system. Stock piping except the converter, I nixed that and replaced it with a flanged pipe I made. Runs a whole lot smoother than before and sounds pretty good too.

I had a right angle drill but I couldn't get enough pressure on it to drill anything at that angle.

1997 Ford Aspire, 1.3L. Only lasted less than 10k miles with 16 year old me

They just started using riv nuts to install the mud flaps on new Silverados here at the dealership I work at. They work a lot better than the whole self tapping screw process they used to use.

The studs didn't come out like planned so I had to drill them out completely and heli-coil repair the threads. My tip for anyone going into this job is to make sure you have extensions for the drill bit/bits you are going to use. I had the manifolds tore off and didn't have any way to drill the studs until the right extension came in. I had to buy a Dewalt drill chuck adapter to couple with an Irwin 12" extension.

I think whispering pines hideaway is over that way somewhere. Never been but I have seen pics from the jeep clubs in the area.

I have finally gotten around to doing this after all summer of procrastinating. The drivers side head now has three studs snapped off in it, the passenger side is all clear. Now its going to be a pain trying to get the old ones out. I have three different extractor sets from the snap on truck, left hand drill bits, and determination. Still looks like with my luck I'll be pulling the head and sending it off.