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djratlif

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Everything posted by djratlif

  1. Thanks guys, I did some shopping around and had to settle for Rockauto. Even with the discount code ended up at $85, but all will be worth it to have tight steering again. Need this fixed before putting my plow on and winter is about to hit again with another storm
  2. Hey guys, I'm getting ready to replace all the steering linkage parts in my trusty steed and can't seem to find a decent price on a center link. The production date on my truck was 11/1991 so it would be the earlier design not the later one from what I can tell. I guess the question is has anyone found another option besides dropping 125-150 for a center link or am I looking for a unicorn here?
  3. I've already got the valve cover and upper timing cover off of the engine in my truck, and the spare/blown block I took out of it. It seems like the valves are both closed at tdc but want a way to be sure. It seems odd that it would have an issue, its got around 80k on it and I do oil every 2500-3000 miles. Last one was triple that before a rod bearing gave up. I'll check the rotor on the dizzy to see what it shows, I'm kinda baffled at the moment.
  4. I know that the pathfinder never saw a KA engine but you guys here are the best I could think of to find help. Recently lost compression in all cylinders on my Frontier. Just shut down one day, no noise, no bang, nothing. I want to check to see if i slipped a tooth on one of the chains but the factory manual says to use paint marks put on during teardown to re-time it. Are there any factory marks to show how to time from scratch or any procedure?
  5. I have an r50 up here in NY as well. Speaking from experience, once the rust gets to the rocker panels/wheel wells usually it is hiding other places as well. These are unibody vehicles, meaning the body and frame are one not separated like older vehicles. I had 187k on it and had to call it quits, the body/frame was unsafe. Check it over well and make sure nothing is soft or it may be a waste of time and money to go any farther.
  6. I have a 1998 chilkoot edition at my parents house. Not sure if the flares are all that nice but I can check for you if you'd like. What ones are you needing, or do you need the whole set?
  7. I did have a thread here somewhere on this, called fuel pump disaster or something like that. The wiring was discussed, but for the life of me I can't remember which was which.
  8. That's kinda what I was getting at, I was thinking of adding one myself if it makes a difference. Mine has been having an erratic idle for a year now and recently started stalling now and then.
  9. When was this sub harness introduced? I have issues with mine and I don't have a jumper harness like that. Does it just relocate the ground to a different/better spot?
  10. I ran black vinyl fuel lines on mine, they are easy to maneuver and run. If I remember right it was around 50 or 70 bucks to do them. Took longer to fix the brake line that broke during the removal of the old lines than to run the fuel lines. As a bonus, the vinyl lines fit directly into the stock looms to make it easy for you.
  11. You can always pull the connector behind the passenger rear wheel and hot wire the thing to see if it is the pump or the power supply to the pump. Turns out that connector actually rotted out on mine and I just needed to replace the connectors.
  12. That's awesome man, looks good. Getting hard to find anything good at the junkyards here anymore.
  13. Mine were used with about 5k miles on them when I got them and they have about 25k on them now with no signs of irregular wear on the rear and still more than 3/4 tread. My steering has kinda chewed one of the fronts though so I can't use that to compare.
  14. I also run 31x10.5's on the stock wheels. Bottoms out a bit when I hit large bumps at highway speeds, this is due to old suspension components sagging though. Should be all good if your suspension is in good shape.
  15. Sway bar link, cheap easy fix. Both sides should be under $20 at local Napa/chain parts stores.
  16. The one that I bought for parts is rusted straight through where the front differential brackets mount. Seems to go quick once it starts, was a decent looking truck a few years back.
  17. Switched fuel lines from steel to vinyl, ran in the original location. We'll see how this works now

  18. Haha, I always get a laugh when my Frontier does that and the passenger thinks I busted something. I heard if you coat them in grease it helps, but never tried it.
  19. Perfect, I am not real familiar with the R50 having never owned a roadworthy one. Also, there is no need to fully remove the CV axles right? I unbolted them from the diff already and it looks like they will clear, although the service manual says to remove them completely.
  20. I have a 1998 parts vehicle and I'm going to remove the front diff for another member here to use. I am wondering if it is easier to drop the diff with the mounting brackets attached, or does it come out by itself leaving the brackets there?
  21. I used some cheap replacement when I bought my 1992 a few years back. They seem to be holding up fine, although I only drive it maybe 2 times a week or so. Been ~30k miles mixed city/dirt road rambling
  22. I'll have my driveshaft out of a 1998 here any day now to sell the axle. If you want me to take measurements I can do so and report back to you.
  23. I am getting one here

  24. Anyone else having trouble navigating today? getting 404 error

    1. RIPB.88

      RIPB.88

      Having the same problem here..

    2. RIPB.88

      RIPB.88

      Having the same problem here..

  25. There is an oil pressure switch located near your oil filter on the block. The oil light is run off this switch and likely the wire is getting worn or corroded somehow. Mine used to flash when it grounded on the frame as it was pulled off the sensor from the previous owner. I'd check there first and see what you find. D

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