SpecialWarr

Had this issue a few years ago on my 1990. The cable has a plastic post and a receiver on the back of the cluster and engaged by a small spring (half the size of the one in an automatic pen) that fits between the cable and the post. The top of the receiver for the post is where mine cracked and at the corner where the post meets the body of the receiver at its base. In theory it could be repaired with crazy glue if it's clean, but mine was covered in moly lube and I couldn't get it out of the crack in the receiver so I went with increased spring tension and lived without the trip meters. Continually using the trip meters will crack the body more (something about the angular force of the reset buttons on the plastic). It's really a mechanical problem and not an electrical. I suggest an hour of remove. repair and re-install because it isn't likely to be difficult! Super short #2 phillips and a triple extra long #2 phillips will be your friends! After that its just plastic clips and electrical connectors.

I suspect that the brass bushing in the arm is toast! I think you might be able to just throw on a stock new one from one of our fine vendors and be good to go. If you off-road a lot I would get the AC brace, but mine has taken a beating and is still good without the brace (at least... as far as I can tell!!) I would tell you to get the Beck/ Arnely because it seems that it is the only one with a grease port. None of the others seem to have one! https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=493175&cc=1211926&jsn=525

That might be more related to what speed you are driving at the time your're in third rather than anything wrong with the trans, maybe try driving that speed downhill just to load the transmission a bit? Anyone else!!??

The other way not mentioned by hawairish is to go shopping around for an LSD equipped wd21 and swap the whole axle assembly. Admittedly, that's a lot of wrenching but parts should be very inexpensive, it will depend on what kind of space arrangements you have / can make and what kind of wrenching skillz you got but it's an option. The manual locking hubs swap is quite easy and can be done trailside, in your parking space or on the street. You'll need to get a set of snap-ring pliers if you don't already have them, a 6mm hex key (L shape, because you can't get the socket version onto the nuts.) to unbolt the hub bodies and a pair of magnets to get the "brakes" that engage the autolocking hubs off. Remove the covers (with a 3mm hex(?) I think, remove the snap ring off of the axle end, remove the "brakes", then unbolt the hub bodies. Replacement is going to depend on which ones you get.... but those should have instructions!! I did mine in my parking space without the snap-ring pliers (which is why it took me over and hour) Bring clean rags and some wheel bearing grease!!

I thought he was working on it, I hadn't realized that it was done and running! Faster than stock is progress but I would never expect it to be "speedy".... it's a truck after all.

Replacing the injectors will only get you clean injectors. it won't really "help" with emissions as that is controlled by the ECU getting signals from the O2 sensor, IACV , EGR and the MAF and adjusting fuel supply and timing in relation to what the parameters in the fuel map state is "correct". Best thing is to run new plugs, new wires, new cap, new rotor, new battery and everything with a perfect ground to bare metal; paying special attention to the MAF sensor wiring's additional ground. BARE metal is what you want. Now it'll pass smog, THEN you can throw down for new injectors! As far as modding the ECU, there was a guy on the west coast in BC who was suggesting that he was going to write up a different fuel map for the Path but that ended with an open ended thread and no more updates in the last three years. So unless you want to spring for a Jim Wolf ECU ( go for it!) there isn't much to be done to the ECU and little information exists here for any mods. You'll need to track down a tuning shop that works with Nissans... I suggest that Haltech in Austalia is a good place to start, they at least have Nissans that they work with on a regular basis.

If I remember I bought mine from Courtesy Nissan ( www.courtesyparts.com ) or www.factorynissanparts.com. It was about half price from what it was at the dealership.

Does anyone have a manual box to fit my '06 Xterra? My power steering rack is leaking like a seive! OR: does anyone have a WD21 that they want to sell? I am really getting annoyed with the X and it's problems.

Since hubs are usually greasy an easy way to count splines is to take a clean white rag and wrap it around the CV shaft. The grease should come off and give you a spline count of dark spots and lighter spots!

I did make a tool but you will have to remove the upper plenum. There is no way to get to the knock sensor with the upper plenum still on. The tool was a bicycle spoke from a mountain bike. I first sharpened the threaded end of it (to wedge between the plastic body and metal clip) and then bent the other end into a good size handle around a piece of metal about 4" long. The hard part is figuring out the angles that you need the pointy end to make to be able to get to the sensor. You can reach the sensor with your fingertips if your hands aren't too thick but you need the tool to be able to get the clip off. After the clip pops off a slight tug up towards the plenum and the connector should come off. Getting it back on is much more challenging so start with the knock sensor and then go and take a break after go get that done; you'll need it. As for the resistor and condenser you would need to know the exact specifications for the resistor and condenser (resistance and Farad capacity) to be able to patch them in to the harness. That's not information that I went and looked for so it may be available in the FSM but I wasn't looking for it at the time.

Umm... I might have that one in my toolbox after my pull-a-part adventure a few years ago... I haven't access to the pictures or the FSM here at work. Have you got / can you make a diagram of what you need? I can put it on my list for this weekend. Unless someone else has one at hand!

https://www.courtesyparts.com/auto-parts/1991/nissan/pathfinder/se-trim/3-0l-v6-gas-engine https://www.factorynissanparts.com/parts/1995/Nissan/Pathfinder/SE/index.cfm?siteid=214081 https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-avtomobilej/nissan/pathfinder-2142/wd21-6268/wd21-182493 They are not cheap and you will have a lot of grief getting to the connector for the knock sensor at the back of the motor under the windshield under the lower plenum.... Mine took an entire afternoon to remove everything, make a tool to pull the wire retainer clip, drain the coolant, plug everything back in and put everything back on.

It's an interesting idea but installing one is going to be your biggest challenge. Sealing will be difficult but possible since you would need a two-part refrigerator door seal (to keep the water out) that goes all the way around the window. The problem with that is how you attach the vinyl seal to the canvas/ nylon since glue and epoxy won't work (heat seal maybe).... that should get you a water proof seal. I think I would recommend a transparent glass portion instead of translucent vinyl but then you would have added weight, fragility and storage issues. Interesting idea though!!

Well that's going to depend on what your local laws state is a legal stick-out or maximum offset. I know that I can get a -20 to clear the inside of the fender flares so I don't see why another 7mm is going to make a difference. That's a quater of an inch... that may be enough to irritate a police enforcement agent ( around here that might be enough to get you pulled over ) but not likely to make much of a difference. You should look into what is and isn't a legal modification in NZ... I'm sure google can help!

The speaker and radio are on their own circuit as can been seen in the fuse box under the dash and have nothing to do with the engine circuits unless they were wired directly to the battery. IF they were wired to the battery you may have popped a fuse somewhere else. I also would like to note that if you don't have a fuse to the dash, the truck won't start... at all... The real question is : does it crank? If yes, then your problem is most likely coil; if not then: weak ground straps, ignition module (prone to failure) or a oil soaked starter (replace). Aaaannnnd that's all I've got...

That, to me, sounds like you have a stuck or seized piston inside one of your brake calipers. I could be wrong but the last time I had that happen was because of 1) my cheap ass not greasing the guide pins for the caliper and 2) a seized piston from my dumb ass having stabbed a hole into the seal while trying to get the caliper off. But I'm a brrroke bicycle mechanic so I have to do my own work. That's all that I can point you at unless you want to get into specifics of your vehicle!

Try eBay, that's where I bought mine a few years ago.

Wait... what?? How did...?? . . . yea but you can't...!?!?!? I need pictures!

They _might_ be interchangeable but you would have to be the guinea pig on that adventure! Nissan may have carried over the glass portion and done some different surface treatments to it and shabango you have a different part number. But it would really take one of each in front of you and see what happens.

The Pacesetters work fine, like it has been mentioned before, the paint burns off but that's because it's for shipping and not extreme temperature paint. On the rear of the driver's side make sure to mow off about 3/16" off of the end of the header to clear the engine hoist clamp BEFORE you try to fit them on.

I'd would say that the chance of anything "slipping" is minuscule at best... speaking direct to the spacers anyway. I still had my compressors on after I installed the spacers and Joey and I were pulling down on the axle just to get the springs back in. The only time something should "slip" is if the shaft of the shock rips off either the upper retainer nut-spacer-washer from the body or the piston-shims-nut off of the shaft itself.... both are extremely unlikely occurrences. That's just my experience with Fleurys spacers, nice machining by the way Steve! If you've never seen one they have a 16-19mm step on the inside to nest one in another and retain the spring in place on the seat. That is not going anywhere without something else breaking first!

Looking through Courtesy Parts list and it looks like they are not interchangeable. About the only thing they have in common is the weatherstrip surround but that's just a stretchy bit of rubber common to a lot of sunroofs as far as I can tell.

I can't really see a difference but I went with the spacers since they are available in 1 and 2 inch stacks AND I don't have to cut the pigtail offfff of a Cherokee spring. Both were a bonus for me since I have no space for a pair of old rusty springs in my apartment and my cheap grinder died a horrible death while doing a welding job on the frame of the Pathfinder. Other than that, Cherokee springs are cheaper in parts IF you have the tools already; otherwise the cost of a set of springs PLUS the cost of a grinder are the more than the cost of a pair of spacers. Either way you'll need a set of spring compressors and some _really really_ tall jackstands. The 32" set we had were _just_ tall enough to be able to getter done!

That being said.... I would think you could get close to 300 at the wheels in a daily driver with the long block ( as mentioned above) but it won't even think about operating in the cold without a really good ECU tune from a standalone system or a Jim Wolf setup. Pistons could be custom machined (yes verrry sexy.. mmmmm... machined pis.. oops.... sorry about that. My mind started wandering.) that will get you back some lengthy driving time at a cost. Minimum requirements must be: Premium fuel, Jim Wolf ECU tune / standalone, fuel pump, injector set, hoses, clamps, money.... think that'll get you a reliable boosted WD21!

So the engine revs up to 4k? or just the needle in the dash? I'd say that the transmission control unit is having a hard time but I bet the ground wires need to be looked at, I would also check that the trans is not loosing any fluid (maybe a drain and refill might be in order). Umm.... did you check that you are getting flow _out_ of the radiator because that may be blocking oil flow from the cooler in the bottom of the rad (they do that). I ran two coils of flexible copper tube ahead of the rad for.... like... two years bypassing the rad completely. So no solutions, just a few suggestions!