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SpecialWarr last won the day on December 8 2015

SpecialWarr had the most liked content!

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128 Excellent

About SpecialWarr

  • Rank
    NPORA Old-Timer
  • Birthday 06/25/1973

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1990 VG30E, 4 door 4X4, swamp rat rated.
  • Place of Residence
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Country
  • Interests
    career suspension tuner and racer of bicycles, wrencher of broken things and maker of tools.... if it's broken I will mend it, if it needs welding I'll weld it...assuming I'll have the time!

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. The Gospel has been spoken! If Mr. Reverse says then it be!! A 2" lift should make it easier to drill out all the exhaust studs and install the M10 studs from the Z31 as well!
  2. Depending on where you are , I have a fully operational VG30 installed in my old truck and running... swing by Montreal, QC and we can pull it out some weekend.... gift/ donation / donor to keep another WD21 running.
  3. The Throttle Position sensor is possible but I suspect that the intake just needs a good cleaning for starters (watch the coolant lines going to the bottom of the throttle body and the 1 vacuum line on the bottom of the boot from the MAF). After that I would be at the aux. air idle thingy just in front of the firewall and next to the brake booster.... the tall thing with the electrical plug on the top of it.... that probably needs a good cleaning as well since its usually gunked up with PCV leftovers... As far as the MAF, cleaning _will_ help but adding an additional ground wire will also help. The TP adjustment is kind of finiky but requires a multimeter and someone who has the info for what values are needed for closed and full throttle.... @adamzan or @Mr.Reverse possibly. I don't recall those off of the top of my head. (You might want to do a search for TP sensor setting in here or google). The engine coolant temp is likely a poor ground on the back of the cluster or a thermostat that's stuck open. IF you go with the cluster make sure you have a 2" #2 Phillips screwdriver for the one screw at the top of the cluster and a 6" #2 for the rest of them. You'll then need a #1 or a #1 JIS to snug the screws on the back of the cluster down. That's about all I can help you with!
  4. Ahhh.... I'd forgotten how much fun it was to just have the kids on my lap and driving around the lawn in the Pathfinder.

  5. The Power windows is most likely the drivers' side master switch, I replaced mine a few years ago and then just made myself a dual pole, dual throw switch wired directly to the main power. A DPDT switch is about $5 and is wired in a sort of cross with the wire of one lower pole arcing over to the upper part on the opposite side with power and ground going to the center poles. The tacho and fuel gauge is a broken ground somewhere on or next to the fuel pump (most of the time?) or near the front of the tank where the wires come out and head forward. Back hatch is nothing other than the lift struts which you can pull off with a flatblade screwdriver and a 10mm socket( if memory serves correctly). $2500 sounds steep but IF everything worked and it looked clean I might be interested at that price. In its current state I would say closer to $1700 but that's just my two cents worth!!
  6. And for the UUUUUber techie among us: The apparent advancement of the belt indicated by the marks on it in relation to the marks on the gears is a function of the number of total teeth in the assembly and the length of the belt. An even number of total teeth will "advance" the belt 2 teeth per complete rotation and an odd number of total teeth will "advance" the belt 1 tooth per rev. Don't know why... they just do! A fun way of seeing that in person is to play with the Lucas Oils gear display at the local auto parts store if they still have one.
  7. Audi A3 3.2L v6.... yea or nay?? I've hears that they are a bit demanding in terms of maintenance... Opinions?

    1. Faulcun


      ALL european cars are expensive to maintain. My rule of thumb is to stay away from euro, and usa domestic cars. I get customers all the time who find a sweet deal on a bmw or mercedes or whatever else, and have a heart attack when the repair bill is written.


      With that being said, if you like it, go for it. Just remember, cars will always decrease in value, but the cost to repair them does not.

    2. SpecialWarr


      Well.... I pulled the trigger on the A6 3.2l... full maintenance records and nothing interesting to see there. So here;s hoping that this car does better than the gen 2 Xterra that I just sold as a major loss!!

  8. Manik: good call.... That's pretty much what I was thinking as well.
  9. Well.... the Xterra is up for sale if anyone (adamzan!) is in "need" of a manual 6sp 2006 with _all_ the receipts! Smokin' deal for you guys!

  10. Were those the little orange wires? Those should be thick and tight since they are 75amp or 100amp fusible links.... Your problem, methinks, was there long before you took the wires off! If she was stalling when you were moving them around then they have already been overheated and melted inside their liners. Basically you need to get some more (pick-n-pull is a good place to start) fusible links!
  11. No difference in the blue dot or the black dot, my 1990 came with the blue dot injectors, replaced with a couple of Densos just because I was changing the fuel lines in between the rails and I had a bad injector (fouled I think) #2 if memory serves.... I think the Denso are the OE injectors, someone who knows for sure will hopefully correct me on that if I'm wrong. As far as the motor mounts goes I have no idea, never pulled the motor or watched it shake more than 3/4" even under throttle snapping.... Anyone else?
  12. Full ladder and 4x4?? Conversation with wife: Baby? ummm, we have to make some changes to our vacation ot Cape Cod this year. Oh, are we not going there? Oh no no... we just have to make a small detour before we get there so I can pick up some Pathfinder parts! Alright, as long as it isn't a big detour I guess that's okay. Oh no... quite a small detour for a good frame.... we just need to swing by Utah after New Hampshire to go and get it and we'll be on the Cape in a few days!! [enter new character: annoyance] Ah.......no.
  13. In that case: excess air is getting in and not being burnt if your HC is up, it's possible that the NOx is your intake air leak / pirate air. But knowing how easy it is to tear the bottom of the intake boot AND have a leaking injector I'm going to suggest that you have both problems until you can rule out positively that you have no air leak.
  14. That wire is part of the motor grounding circuit and not really of concern. I suspect that there is pirate air getting in around the intake somewhere (yes.. very helpful, I know) but without a can of propane / something else that catches fire I can't help ya much. The only other thing I can think of is a blockage in the fuel delivery system (back to your "stumbling" problem) but since it runs super lean at revs it could be one of the hoses or the fuel pressure regulator that's going out. I would think you would smell fuel in the cab if there was a fuel rail/ injector problem sooooo... it must be either before fuel gets to the fuel rails or air getting into the intake after the MAF That's how I would attack the problem.
  15. Did you get your hubs? I have a set on my 90 which are used, look terrible but still work. ( The chrome peels off something awful!)

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