Jump to content

SpecialWarr

Members
  • Content Count

    1,043
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

SpecialWarr last won the day on December 8 2015

SpecialWarr had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

144 Excellent

3 Followers

About SpecialWarr

  • Rank
    SamThePirate
  • Birthday 06/25/1973

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1990 VG30E, 4 door 4X4, swamp rat rated.
  • Place of Residence
    Montreal / Ste Adele
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    46+
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1990

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Montreal
  • Country
    Canada
  • Interests
    Fixing things, 2-stroke engines, chainsaws, mountain biking, dark beer, smooth scotch in front of the fireplace and beers at the fire pit. Wheeling, lunch on the dock in the lake during the summer.

Recent Profile Visitors

7,404 profile views
  1. I miss my Pathfinder.... not the 16mpg.... but I have officially requested an authorization to replace the frame with a custom build, cross your fingers for a thumbs up!!

  2. You might want to consider 3d printing one if you know someone who does that! Although I admit that I live in the airplane capital of Canada so _everyone_ has a something super trick like that around here.
  3. A roof rack is an excellent reason to make yourself an exocage!
  4. Agreed with these two characters also... the 90-95 should fit fine, just make sure that you remove the engine hoist bracket on the back of the left side head BEFORE you put them on.
  5. Personally I would suggest a definitive diagnostic and confirmation that it IS the fuel pump and not a bad wire in the loom that snakes around next to he exhaust / bash guard for the tank / tank mounting bolt hangers. You may want to get yourself a $7 test light from the auto parts store before you drop $$$ on a part you don't actually need. The test light is a very handy tool if you can figure out a wiring diagram power / control and ground. You can figure out _where_ the problem is instead of firing the "new parts cannon" at the vehicle. My test light _would have_ saved me from replacing the battery, the starter and alternator and getting a tow.... but I trusted a digital voltmeter instead. My mistake. In short.... it _might_ be the pump. But you should _know_ that it IS the pump before you open that can of worms on an old truck like ours.
  6. Just saw your YouTube vid.... nice!!

  7. I had suggested years ago that it is possible for me to do this on the pathy, but between the cost of materials, my CAD/ CAM time and the need for at least 10 people to sign on and put money down it never got off of the ground floor. Sorry about that.
  8. The last time I was honked at was while I was in traffic through a construction zone going about 15km/hr!
  9. The only coolant passage that I recall in the intake tract is to heat the throttle body and that's with the two 3/16" hoses under it, after that I only recall heater core lines at the back of the engine on the passenger side; if they were leaking you would have smoke in the engine bay. The large quantity of smoke out of the exhaust could be either accumulated water from sitting which will take a goodly while to burn off OR, as you said, the water jacket surrounding cyl #1. It could be a head gasket but there are folks who a getting 700 hp from the stock internals and heads so I have to think that it an unlikely cause. AS far as the fuel out of the exhaust: did you check to see if the liquid evaporated quickly or lit on fire? I would suspect the flexible fuel lines might be at issue if you didn't replace them when you were doing the intake.... you didn't mention anything about them so I'm just throwing that out there. That's where my fuel leak was anyway! I would suspect that a stuck open injector would not smell in the cabin... I can assure you that a leaking fuel line in between the two banks smells a lot! That's all I have as ideas and direction! I hope you track down the coolant leak!
  10. I'm pretty sure that the front is an R200, super common on S13's, GTRs, 180's, 240's as a rear diff so there are lockers for the front and lots of regular people have installed them.... the H233 rear is another thing. Not that it isn't available.... ( https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/19851995-wd21-pathfinder-mechanical-locker-c-38_1321_1208.html ).... but installs are a lot less common, as are any setup and fitment issues that might be present.
  11. Running through the gears is quite easy, you just need to get the rear wheels off of the ground but try to keep the truck level. It _may_ be that you are super low on fluid, but if there are metal flakes in the oil then that transmission is probably on it's last legs.
  12. That's not something that you can find at a general parts store. That's a dealership (maybe) part, or an eBay part. It's a really simple system and just needs both wires attached. I don't really care if mine lights up or not so I never bothered to fix mine!
  13. That does seem normal to me. In reverse, 1st and 2nd the transmission is 'locked' in that gear choice. In drive there are at least two other gear options for the transmission control unit to choose from, which it will do according to its programming, in concert with the overriding control of engine operations from the engine control computer (tuned for regular street driving and fuel efficiency). That being said for a V6 from the 1990's it's not really that efficient compared to anything current.
  14. I gotta say that sounds seriously like you need a new transmission. I wouldn't imagine there are that many in Alaska so maybe hit up eBay first and see what available there. After that I would do a full fluid flush from the cooler at the bottom of the radiator and run at least 20 liters through it... yes it's going to cost you 5 gallons of trans oil, but that is cheaper that a transmission install. Make sure that you run the truck through all of its gears while you are doing the flush, otherwise old oil might be lurking in places that it shouldn't. Expect oil leaks afterwards ( the new oil is less dense an _does_ seep past the seals) which should slow after a few months of "marking it's territory". That's all I've got... Anyone else have suggestions?

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×
×
  • Create New...