Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


SpecialWarr last won the day on December 8 2015

SpecialWarr had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

142 Excellent


About SpecialWarr

  • Rank
    NPORA Old-Timer
  • Birthday 06/25/1973

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1990 VG30E, 4 door 4X4, swamp rat rated.
  • Place of Residence
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Country
  • Interests
    career suspension tuner and racer of bicycles, wrencher of broken things and maker of tools.... if it's broken I will mend it, if it needs welding I'll weld it...assuming I'll have the time!

Recent Profile Visitors

7,020 profile views
  1. The last time I was honked at was while I was in traffic through a construction zone going about 15km/hr!
  2. The only coolant passage that I recall in the intake tract is to heat the throttle body and that's with the two 3/16" hoses under it, after that I only recall heater core lines at the back of the engine on the passenger side; if they were leaking you would have smoke in the engine bay. The large quantity of smoke out of the exhaust could be either accumulated water from sitting which will take a goodly while to burn off OR, as you said, the water jacket surrounding cyl #1. It could be a head gasket but there are folks who a getting 700 hp from the stock internals and heads so I have to think that it an unlikely cause. AS far as the fuel out of the exhaust: did you check to see if the liquid evaporated quickly or lit on fire? I would suspect the flexible fuel lines might be at issue if you didn't replace them when you were doing the intake.... you didn't mention anything about them so I'm just throwing that out there. That's where my fuel leak was anyway! I would suspect that a stuck open injector would not smell in the cabin... I can assure you that a leaking fuel line in between the two banks smells a lot! That's all I have as ideas and direction! I hope you track down the coolant leak!
  3. I'm pretty sure that the front is an R200, super common on S13's, GTRs, 180's, 240's as a rear diff so there are lockers for the front and lots of regular people have installed them.... the H233 rear is another thing. Not that it isn't available.... ( https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/19851995-wd21-pathfinder-mechanical-locker-c-38_1321_1208.html ).... but installs are a lot less common, as are any setup and fitment issues that might be present.
  4. Running through the gears is quite easy, you just need to get the rear wheels off of the ground but try to keep the truck level. It _may_ be that you are super low on fluid, but if there are metal flakes in the oil then that transmission is probably on it's last legs.
  5. That's not something that you can find at a general parts store. That's a dealership (maybe) part, or an eBay part. It's a really simple system and just needs both wires attached. I don't really care if mine lights up or not so I never bothered to fix mine!
  6. That does seem normal to me. In reverse, 1st and 2nd the transmission is 'locked' in that gear choice. In drive there are at least two other gear options for the transmission control unit to choose from, which it will do according to its programming, in concert with the overriding control of engine operations from the engine control computer (tuned for regular street driving and fuel efficiency). That being said for a V6 from the 1990's it's not really that efficient compared to anything current.
  7. I gotta say that sounds seriously like you need a new transmission. I wouldn't imagine there are that many in Alaska so maybe hit up eBay first and see what available there. After that I would do a full fluid flush from the cooler at the bottom of the radiator and run at least 20 liters through it... yes it's going to cost you 5 gallons of trans oil, but that is cheaper that a transmission install. Make sure that you run the truck through all of its gears while you are doing the flush, otherwise old oil might be lurking in places that it shouldn't. Expect oil leaks afterwards ( the new oil is less dense an _does_ seep past the seals) which should slow after a few months of "marking it's territory". That's all I've got... Anyone else have suggestions?
  8. The 1990 has a 6 digit cluster, tops out at 999,999.9 assuming that one makes it that far!
  9. I would let the truck warm up and then do the compression test, the coolant is most likely a head gasket so the compression test should tell you which one, the compression-hold test is the one you really want to use with a possible head gasket failure. It's a compression test done over time watching the _rate_ of pressure loss over a 5 minute window for each cylinder. All of the cylinders should be close except for one or two, depending on the specific type of failure You can do the compression test cold as well, I did mine cold and still had 169psi as the lowest reading of the six with the rest all hanging around the 175 to 180 psi mark. The #6 is a pain but if you have the original tool bag it has the correct length tool to reach all the way down to the #6.... there is a combination of regular extensions that will get you the same thing but hella difficult to get the plug back into its spot with the damn wobbly extensions. Take the hood off so you can at least have some space to work. It will make your life _much_ better!! As for the misfire, there are too many things to list to even begin what it _could_ be, but start with new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. That will eliminate the most irritating and easy things that MAY be slightly wrong / cracked/ broken /tracked or otherwise out of specification. After that we have lists and lists of things that can cause a misfire, but they cost more money! That's all I got for ya!
  10. What he said! Do NOT remove the damn starter just to bench test it, it's 3 hours the first time to remove it and you won't be much further ahead. Other ting to do is to start with 1 full new can of brake parts cleaner and empty it on the starter, solenoid and wires, hit it with a degreaser as well and then there should be little to no chance that it is being caused by oil running down from the filter area ( cost me 1 original starter after 26 years of dutiful service ).
  11. The IAC is super easy to clean after you get it off. The only real PITA part is getting your right hand under the rear of the intake to remove the retainer clip, and plugging the new one back in...
  12. I did the same thing, and added a clean ground to one of the seemingly random bolts in the engine bay next to the MAF off of the new plug that I wired in. Not that I had an idle issue other than a super dirty IA and the requisite stumble while getting off of the highway.
  13. Dude... now that you have me all hot and bothered with the sexy exhaust.... where's the video with awesome 3.0 sound!!
  14. That's stock!! Lol!! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Welcome to NPORA Forums


Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.



  • Create New...