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Mr. Pickles

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Everything posted by Mr. Pickles

  1. The vertical tubes are killing me... hopefully they would be un breakable, otherwise they woud be perfect demo tools. I'm sure they're strong, though... As far as the right spare vs. left tire mounts, it occurred to me that if the spare was relocated out of the way on the bumper to the left (driver's side) with a solid bumper mount, then the stock spare mounts on the passenger side body could be re-purposed. They're obviously strong enough to carry a spare. What about being the perfect HiLift mounting point, and/or with other gear, even a ladder ala Rover Discovery's, up to a cargo/basket rack. Its just my 2 cents, please give me a discount if you take it and run.
  2. Yep, standard relay, $5 or less at any parts store or even Walmart, etc.
  3. Mr. Pickles

    HOA's

    Unfortunately, those HOA's and CC&R's are YOUR problem to deal with, and most of the newer versions have some bite, they can fine you and/or LIEN your property, as in you can't sell without dealing with it. I work in real estate title, and this is some of the stuff I see daily. "I didn't know" simply doesn't cut it at all, you will lose. When you signed to buy your place, and also usually if you signed a rental app for a house in a newer neighborhood, you also signed to accept documents detailing these rules (CC&R's, among others), and to agree and abide by the rules (look at the contract and stack of paperwork sitting in your closet or file cabinet), and to accept their penalties. Pretty much, you're stressed out while buying your house, here's a 100pg+ stack of stuff with a couple pages that could screw you, please sign. There are some ways around some of the stuff, or maybe you have cool owners that let you slide, but really, you're most likely screwed (based on your local laws, of course). Seller disclosure is generally not an issue, as you were almost guaranteed to have been handed a copy of those CC&R's/rules in that stack of paperwork you were given when you bought your place. I had a fukin-fit at my old place when they told me on like New Years day that I had unauthorized (Christmas) lights in place, only to read that sure as hell, anything other than white was considered against reg's. F- that isht, in my book. You really should be ok in older neighborhoods with CC&R's, as they're usually just protecting against some lost hippie trying to paint their house tye-dye, but the newer crap can kiss my arse. All in all, future homeowners, take note. By signing on the line, you already have given up your rights, and YES, HOA types are generally in full right to make your life hell, and charge you admission. Sign at your own risk. Bye the way, you wouldn't believe some of the rules I've seen. No commerical vehicles is almost standard, so nobody in repair or construction is allowed to park unless in the garage or behind a fence... if at all. No RV's or boats, of course, then there's "no visible vehicle maintenance" except in a garage, no exterior parking for as short as 24 hours, besides the endless Architectural Control Committees that can control everything down to the exact species and locations that you can plant in your front yard as to be asthetically pleasing to your neighbors. Might as well hand them your rights in a sack along with the docs. "Please sign with your right hand, and extend your left for cuffs..."
  4. Mr. Pickles

    HOA's

    lol... welcome -from- Texas, I guess. That's a decent starter place out here on the "left" coast, even up here in WA. Congrats, Fueler, I'm sure the housewarming party was... err... *green.*
  5. Maybe you could sell it to buy a proper "regular" diff with LSD or a locker. I'm just saying...
  6. Those Mickey's look sweet! Agreed on the need to re-index, that should have you sitting level and good to go. Dooooo it, and lets have some action shots! Nice truck!
  7. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...mp;#entry333543
  8. I still give you tons of props on your rig cause you did it. Balls up, if it ain't your cup of tea, move on. But 16mpg? WTF are you smoking down there, T.O.M.? I'm on mild lift, stock drivetrain, 31x12.5 and I'm doing fukin cartwheels at the gas pump if I can even approach 16mpg and beat 250 miles per tank. I call B.S.
  9. What is "standard" anyways? And are you talking about a grill guard (AKA brush guard, bull bar, 'roo bar, etc., outside/around/over the bumper), or an actual front end grill. Regardless, 29"=29", 30"=30", Nissan doesn't generally = Ford, Chevy doesn't = Toyota, etc.. "Fits X year of Y model" is pretty straight forward. For a brush guard, nobody offers a swap-between kit or anything like that as far as I know. There are 2 routes: Either buy one that fits (yes, the options are pretty rare, but you can find some bolt-on ones on eBay and such or an OEM one in some junkyards). Or option #2... grab a torch/saw/welder and go to it, or hire somebody to tackle the task for you. *by the way, if you're interested, the "brush guard" on mine is from a Land Rover Discovery. I bought it cheap after eyeballing it up to the Pathy, then figured the rest out. The current mounting is version 2.0 (shut up, Red & Packie, et al).
  10. Yep, tension is adjusted by the bolt near the pulley, and its simply loosen, remove belt, remove pulley if needed, add new parts, install is reverse. I just did this, and did all the belts, in probably 1/2 hour... well, 1 hour with beer break. Basic tools (and beer) are all that's required.
  11. "Standard amp kit" = some kids in a factory threw some stuff off the shelf into a package. What is standard? You're most likely spending more for the kit than you would buying good wire and the correct connectors and parts for your particular install. Run down to a decent stereo shop, and you can most likely buy good cable by the foot for FAR better pricing than at the megamart, especially when wiring an SUV. Most kits skimp, especially on power and ground cable, and I would personally err on the side of excess and go with larger wire. On the other side of things, I would argue that you should go with the smalled amperage fuse allowable by your equipment, and skip what the kit recommends. Maybe you spend an extra couple bucks, but its cheaper than frying a couple hundred $ amp or component. Just my 2cents. Meanwhile... I ran all my stuff down the passenger side, signal (RCA and such) down the driver's side, then across. I ended up just drilling a new hole for all necessary wiring. You can buy some rubber grommetts for super cheap for protection. Its not rocket science, just look up high on the firewall where there's nothing in the way, and go into the cab to pull back the carpet to confirm. Drill a small pilot hole first, then go bigger, and you're on your way. 1000 watt Alpine to a DVC Rockford Fosgate 12", and a 500 watt RF amp to the rest of the interior speakers should get the job done, no? Sub Box 69.0... errr... something like that, has the amps, wiring and a 1 farad Monster cap, all encased in open end of the box, away from poking, prodding, camping and trail gear, etc.
  12. Don't jump to conclusions and start throwing money and parts at the truck. This could be several issues, so get yourself a circuit testor and go to work. It could be as simple as $5 for a simple digital testor, and another $5 for a length of wire and some connectors. Take a little time, grab a friend or a length of wire, and test everything in the starter circuit. Its easier than it sounds, especially if you have a book/manual. If you don't, we can hook you up. Let us know.
  13. Oh sh*t man! Sounds like an ouch. When in doubt, let the other dumb bastard do it. Then laugh. Best of luck, and cheers!
  14. Its relatively easy, regardless of stock or not. Read the stuff on the link 88 provided, check out the instructions with your light kit, and take a look at your truck's wiring. Buy a simple tester (can be had for a couple bucks), take pics if you get stuck, and with all of the above instructions, you should be good to go.
  15. I've got the same bs, park in gear on a really steep enough hill, and it will lurch a few inches, stop, lurch, stop. I adjusted the E-brake, and its solved... mostly. My buddy has literally a 60-degree driveway at least at the bottom. E-brake is in good shape and solid, truck in gear in first, and it will still roll slowly. I'm sure my compression is down (165K miles), but damn, I've been able to stop on some pretty steep hills on the trail, no problemo. I guess dirt gives easier than concrete. Gonna have to try the reverse action, just to see...
  16. The mount height is not the issue at the rear at all, its the bolt size/threads. They're funky, I can't remember the size. 88?! Basically, its almost the same kit between the trucks other than this... The stock setup slides the mount in, but then there's a loosely mounted captive nut inside... yada yada... I've heard of guys just cutting into the steel from above, then swapping out the stock stuff for standard nuts, bolts and washers. There are options.
  17. Good stuff right there, nice rig! My father-in-law has a stock R50 *sorta* just like yours. Gotta talk him into wheeling it...
  18. 15 Pathy 6 Acura 4 mower 1 weed wacker 1 chainsaw 1 generator 1 generator #2 1* *technically in running condition, but with a leaky top-mounted fuel tank yet to be replaced. See the Precise mention of "fire off." Suddenly I feel... inadequate. Maybe a wee bit of plug envy.
  19. This job can run the full spectrum, from a slam dunk to a pain in the rear, depending on you and the rig. I did mine alone with tools and a floor jack and some 2x4 scraps, outside over a few days. I ran into a rusty and totally frozen rear driver's side mount that was a beast and required PB Blaster/heat/leverage/BFH/etc. The main actual body lift portion probably took me 8+ hours, if there were no issues. But there were... I extended the fuel filler hose and such, relocated the power steering tank lower down the fender rather than extend the lines, cut down the lower radiator hose, etc. Then that time again was spent once I factor in that @#$%^&* mount, other bs, along with the stupid front bumper relocation brackets that came with the lift and are garbage. Its do-able, and easier with extra hands, just don't totally count on a quick job.
  20. If not the daytime running lights, I'd bet on the switch. I'm not sure how they're wired for yours with DTRL, but the "normal/old/US" switches have been known to have problems with bad contacts, either stuck on or mostly not working at all, basically bad connections with those metal tab connector things. I took it apart and cleaned the contacts initially, but had to eventually replace mine too not long ago.
  21. Huh, fair enough. Although waiting for metal to metal is asking for problems, but heh. I lived up the road from the Auburn one at the time, and had been in a few times for various issues with a couple vehicles, and they took care of me, probably cause it was the same manager and I bs'd with the guy. I had 1 warranty issue, but they took care of it right away, no problemo. That was a few years ago though, so that could change, and I can't vouch for other locations. Good luck.
  22. Ooooh, beer before or after a guy gets buried... err, married. Where- abouts? Looks like I may be in town after all that weekend.
  23. 4x4parts.com = 3" lift AFIK Plan on at least a weekend just to be on the safe side, then hope for a day Soak all mounts and such with PB Blaster far in advance Grab a friend/breaker bar/pipe/torch for any surprises That's about it. Double the time you *think* it will take at least, then take your time and pay attention. At best, it will go super-smooth and you'll knock it out quick with time to kill. Its pretty straight forward if you take your time and read, but it could be a PITA if you rush through. I did mine by myself in the parking stall of my old townhouse (no garage) with basic hand tools, but I also ran into some issues I had to deal with. It depends on you, the truck, and what you have to work with. Good luck!
  24. Ditto on the battery cables, and various ignition wiring. They can rot out and just plain die. I went through hell last year over starting issues, and I even had a new starter that checked out fine (took out to test and verify) and a 6 month old battery. I ended up replacing the starter (the existing one failed, and a new warranty starter worked but didn't do the trick). I ended up re-wiring the starting circuit, piece by piece, which really isn't hard at all once you look at it. Ground to block, + to harness and starter, then wiring to solenoid. I finally narrowed it to the circuit to the ignition switch in the steering column, which I hacked in at the switch in the column to bypass with a new wire, and called it good. Its a process of elimination, figure out what isn't working, then go from there...
  25. Ouch, first ticket for lights, no biggie really. Read up on local regs, hire an attorney, fight it, etc. 2nd ticket for display of rubber = are you kidding, did you miss that day in class? 3rd ticket, again for lights by same pig, er, cop = you're screwed, pay up. BTW, how was the weather bad that it required high beam headlights + 2 sets of fog lights + 4 overhead lights? No amount of weather could make it so bad that you should be driving fast enough to out-drive the light of all of those lights. I'm just saying..... slow down?
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