MrFML

Update on mine. I replaced the coil and water temp sensor. Still wouldn't start. I unplugged the MAF and it fired right run and ran. Plugged it back in and it wouldn't start. So I guess I found my problem!

They may also require their own ground.

I did some troubleshooting on mine just now. I realized I was checking the wrong wire on the TPS. So I checked it correctly and I do have voltage. So, same problem as Mr.Gyropath. I checked and I don't have any codes. I checked and coolant temp sensor. FSM says 2.5ohms , I have like 3.6ohms is my temp sensor bad? A new symptom showed up today, I turned the key on and the ECCS relay went crazy, opening and closing very rapidly. Sounded like a bumble bee. I just so happened to have 2 spare relays sitting there and I swapped them out as this was happening and all three did the same thing. I really am lost with this thing.

I need to jump in here real quick. I am watching this thread because I am having a very similar issue with my pathfinder. Same problem description only difference is, when mine starts it won't idle long, like it runs out of gas on its own. And if I touch the gas pedal while it isn't idling, it just stumbles and dies right away. Just did the FSM procedure to check the tps. I failed out on the first step. No voltage on terminal C to ground. And ideas with that ???

Long story short, I have a new fuel pump and I have tested the relay and it works. i can't figure out what is going on. I have checked power at the relay plug and this is what I have Numbered based on how the relay is numbered. #2 to negative battery terminal I have 12v #3 to negative terminal 12v #2 to #1 0v. ( this is the coil side of the relay) #3 to #4 12v I can jump out #3 and #4 and the pump runs. It seems that my relay isn't getting a ground on #1 so my relay is getting power but not closing, Can anyone help me out?

I changed the O2 sensor. it runs like a top. Thanks!

I will definitely check the O2. What about codes? I don't know much of anything about OBD1. I hear there is a way to check for a code? Even if there is no CEL?

oh and I drove it earlier. after it warms up I can hear a slight miss in the exhaust note. it's pretty smooth when it's cold. imagine if you were driving along and lost 75hp. that's how it feels.

honestly sone of the vacuum lines are hard as a rock. mainly on the bigger onesthat run under the intake on the drives side. what about the air regulator? I hear ithe could cause issues.

I have a 95 xe with 176k , under normal driving it acts like it's running out of gas. For example, while driving down a road and you start an incline on a hill and the transmission kicks down, it just bogs. I basically have to put my foot in it to get the engine to pull. I have replaced the fuel pump and filter and ignition coil. Also did my best to find a vacuum leak but couldn't find anything. I am at a standstill. I have considered that maybe it's the transmission but I'm really not sure at this point.

I am looking for some general information on doing a Vg30et swap into my 95 xe. Yes I searched but it turned up very little. I know a lot of people have talked about doing this swap but apparently no one has documented it. At least not that I can find. So if you can find one please post link. -Other than modifications to the firewall what other fabrication is required? - will I be able to keep 4wd? (I don't off-road but I would love to do some light trails ) - will the factory fuel pump flow enough or do I need a booster or what? - will I be able to use the factor guages?

but it lights up when i turn the headlights on.it just wont flash up front but flashes fast out back and on the dash.

Double checked** I guess I can't edit posts on tapatalk Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I just couple checked and I do NOT have power to the blinker. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I have a 95 wd21 and I have developed a blinker issue. It showed all signs of a blown bulb. The indicator and the rear tail light blinked rapidly. So I replaced the bulb and it still does not blink. Then I put my volt meter on the socket and it says I am getting power, so I cut the factory plug and replaced it with to wire connectors. But... Still not blinking. I checked the fuse inside the cab and it is fine. What else could it be? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Right on, I unplugged both the little sensors and it wouldnt even start. But that could have been because it was in its acting up mode. I will go tomorrow and check the sensor. and the connector for both the Temp sensor and MAF. Thanks for the help.

Ok, I just went out and swapped My good one for the bad one and nothing changed. Something i noticed this time. It will sit there and idol for maybe 2-3mins. then it starts acting up. but I can give it gas and as long as i keep it above 2000RPMS it will stay running. but if you go under 2K it just skips a beat and studders. but i can give it a little gas and it bogs but slowly picks the rpm back up. I sat there for maybe 5 mins with it above 2K, then I put it in gear and the RPMs dropped and it died.

My mother bought a 95 Pathfinder 2wd for $600. 186Kmiles, very clean interior. The problem is that it will start and run perfect when its cold. After a couple mins it starts running like ass, wont rev, cough cough. all that. Then it dies. and if you immediately try and start it. it act like like it wants to fire but it wont. If you wait 10mins. It will start but runs like crap and if you try and give it gas it bogs and will die. I have replaced the distributor cap and button, wires, plugs, fuel pump. (dropped tank and cleaned) fuel filter, and blew out the line. It is getting fuel and it is returning fuel. Im lost. So please someone point me in the right direction. My thoughts are maybe the injectors are screwed up.. or.. is it a timing issue? What about the one O2 sensor? I took the suspected MAF off and put it on my truck and everything worked fine. I wasn't able put my good MAF on the bad truck because the battery is dead and I don't have any jumper cables. Its not throwing a code..