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xterra last won the day on February 22 2016

xterra had the most liked content!

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About xterra

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    NPORA Old-Timer

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    A rare 1990 2-door SE-V6 VG30e (MPFI) automatic, new to me in Aug-2013.Here's a list of completed and planned work. Completed so far:- New tires (it had sedan white-walls when I bought it)- Outsourced the oily bits: New timing belt, replaced valve cover gaskets, and repaired exhaust manifold studs (bulletin 94-041)- Got and installed inclinometer- Modified and installed lower center dash from '93 (for USB power and storage area)- Installed a whole new audio system: head unit, amp, speakers - the works- Wired for and installed auto-dimming mirror with Temperature and Compass- Added Homelink from a Range Rover- Replaced rotted factory nerf bars and replaced them with NOS Westin bars- Replaced sun-bleached mirrors and door handles with chrome ones- Expedition box completed for the cargo area- Found, refurbed, and added a straight wing from a '92- Replaced ignition switch and door locks with NOS, which solved the electrical gremlins in the door lock system- Installed the headlight relay mod and installed auto-headlight module- Replaced power window motors- Had all windows tinted to 20%- Had new exhaust piping, muffler, and chrome finisher installed- Installed new shocks- Added high-mount (3rd) brake lightStill on the to do list:- Chrome front grille, bumper, markers from a '93- Looking for factory grille / brush guard- Add rear spacers (1" or maybe 2")- Add roof rack so it's ready for a basket and expeditions
  • Place of Residence
    Columbia, Tennessee
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
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  • Location
    Columbia, Tennessee
  • Country
    United States

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  1. I can confirm (from personal experience) that first gen Xterra sunroofs are a direct replacement for the WD21 sunroof. That's what I'm running in my rig, since the weather stripping on the original completely deteriorated. The connectors for the sunshade are different than the original WD21 (screw-in versus a cam connector), so grab the shade if you can find one.
  2. I had planned to do the same thing, but it's not quite as simple as I hoped. There were changes to the metal ribs under the headliner, and the 2-doors don't have a bracket that the 4-door map lights attach to. As for the wiring, it runs up the left hand A pillar, then over the door and around the sunroof (at least one a 1990 2-door). I ended up giving up on the map lights, but wired an auto-dimming mirror and a Homelink transmitter from a Range Rover in that spot.
  3. Replaced the alternator after diagnosing it as the cause of the dead battery. It was only putting out 13 volts and looked like it was still the original. So got a new unit (not remanned), but now the Brake, Charge, and AT Oil Temp lights are staying on (they weren't on before). Checked the belt tension and tightened the hell out of it, but still have the lights. Any ideas?
  4. Wow - now this is a zombie thread! But it's a great one to have come back to life. 10 - Wild & Wicked - Shania Twain 09 - Route 66 - Depeche Mode 08 - Dracula (Matrix Remix) - Rob Zombie 07 - Castaway - Green Day 06 - My Sherona - The Knack 05 - Promised Land - Elvis Presley 04 - Lawless and Lulu - Buckcherry 03 - Sucker for Mystery - Danny Elfman 02 - Song 2 - Blur 01 - Come with me Now - Kongos
  5. WD21's didn't have headlight relays. There's a good write-up in the garage section about it: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/4945-headlights-performing-poorly/page-1 Lots of folks here have installed the headlight relay mod, including me. It makes a huge difference.
  6. Had a no-start issue crop up last weekend (in the middle of moving). No click at all when I turned the key to try and start it after filling i with fuel. After checking all the cheap and easy stuff, it turned out to be the starter. Took 4 days to get the part, but it's back on the road again.
  7. I originally replied to a post in this thread on the R50 forum, but figured this was probably a more general topic. I've been working on seeing if I can get a 2003-2004 R50 SE roof rack to fit on my 2-door WD21. I found 2 2003 R50 SE roof racks at the local JY for $15 each, so I figured it was worth a try to see if this is doable. From what I was able to find, the two tracks that mount to the roof are the same for all R50s. The SE models that had the side rails and wind deflector were bolted onto those tracks. R50 body stamping also recesses the tracks into the roof a bit, and uses extra mounting hardware. The mounting hardware is bolted through the roof and then the racks bolt to that hardware. Since the WD21s don't have that recessed area, I can't use that mounting hardware. And there is about a 1/2 in gap under the tracks that I probably need to fill so that I don't bend the tracks when I bolt them down. I don't want to drop the headliner, so I'm hoping to find a way of using rivnuts and spacers. There are also width issues. The R50 rack with stock cross-bars is equal in width to where the hump in the WD21 roof tapers down. So I either needed to find new cross-bars that are wider and mount the tracks outside of the hump, or I needed to cut down the cross bar and mount the tracks on the hump. Since mine's a 2-door, I've also got to deal with the band that runs across the top (where the optional light bar would have mounted). I ended up trimming the cross-bars and wind deflector by about 3 inches and had to shorten the tracks and side rails by about 18 inches. The last problem is the sizable gap in the front. On the R50s, the side trim that holds the wind deflector straddles a piece of weatherstripping that comes up form the windshield. There's no easy way to replicate that on a WD21. I'm looking for any suggestion on: - How I can securely mount this to the roof? Like I said, I'm thinking rivnuts with some spacers under the track. Maybe even get some nuts welded to the track for the front and rear side pieces to bolt into, so I'd bolt the track to the roof and the plastic to the tracks. - What I can use to fill the gaps in the front? I'm thinking some kind of liquid rubber that hardens as it cures, but I've never worked with it so I don't know how it will last. Since I've only got $30 and about 20 hours in to the project, I'm not above abandoning it before I drill holes in the roof. I've got some new pictures I took this morning with some wider shots and more angles than I had in my original reply. (Since things aren't all screwed together, there are some things that don't look like they align, but - other than the gaps in the front bottom - everything looks like will cinch down nicely. Here's what I've got so far. Front 3/4 View: Side View: Rear 3/4 View: Close-Up of the Gap: Front View: Top View from the Rear:

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