Rebelord

That sucks. My rears are holding up well though. I've alway been impressed with the rears. I'll keep those in and swap the fronts. Plus I do have a hard 50k on the front struts. If they seem bad I'll warranty them. Gotta love Autozone and Gabriel struts. Lifetime warranty. Even on wear and tear seals.

Expeditionportal.com PCoA.org.au = Pathfinder Club of Australia

Your best bet would be to find a used transfer case to swap in. As you have bearing from the output shaft to the drive shaft. That wont last very long without any fluid to lubricate and cool them.

To bad your in Cali and require a front plate. See that nice long ~20 opening where your plate sits? Perfect place for a flood.

Low on oil? Due for oil change?

The one end connects to the catalytic converter? That would be under exhaust, a hanger of some sorts. Or its just a NVH damper.

The suspension isn't hard. There are plenty of threads about it and the various lift options. Just a matter of your preference. I'd focus on any maintenance items that need to be addressed first. Plus go over the bushings of the suspension with a comb. As once you lift it. Any problems will be magnified greatly. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Hmm if it's at 15° +/- a blonde one. Your good. No codes throwing. Have you taken a look in the FSM under troubleshooting for hard starts? May give some ideas. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

The problem I found with out the back. Is when off road. If you have a steep departure angle against something. Gets smooshed. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Your timing may be off. Is it cold starts or hot starts when it does this? Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

New strut mounts would be good. Comes with new bearings as well if you get the Monroe's. KYB are there too.

You ever replace the iron man front springs? I remember you also stating yours have basically collapsed like mine? Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Cancel the order for the 4x4 parts skid plate. Order one from Fluery instead. Hell I'd give you my 4x4 parts one. But not worth the shipping costs. Why you ask? Lay under the truck and try to hold 45lbs with one hand and a foot and your forehead to use the second hand to try to start 2 bolts to hold it. Fluery weighs 12lbs. I've hit a cinder block at 45mph with it. Didn't phase it. (block fell out of a truck on the highway. Safer to hit it than try to swerve/avoid) Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Ive been reading on Bob Is The Oil Guy forums about people with oil consumption and stuck rings. Lots of talk about doing soaks with Marvel Mystery Oil to free the rings. Bring back up compression and going about the day.

Never heard of that. Either you'd have a very noticeable leak underneath or it would go back to the oil pan. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Had to dig up a old pic. But here's how mine exits. Leaves muffler, runs over axle the exits behind the tire. No resonator etc. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qaedRAFelRyQmEG73D9vPXBi4Z7SKzZCF-b2I87R0_nckgGumTmf6ubmO_T0Mkd3hDAPMYZLf-0YxXZ-stUWsS5MdirjOCIKn6iRqmiafa0eOelGTHfrQU3dBVdUW8UWy_SrrMMz_e02IDFWkXHuEbe3a0dAKYhYGnHaai2wBIeoOKKddqSX6O4w2C7gTuyLkxteVpsHkHXnnoMHieb8_Uz4cP4nw3-VlYLk80gfSDHolBrsq5-0jYHIkZJIiArgMInw-bgPwpjJZoOFwTh_YwO8BIo6NJbUvPNW7GgXbFxtRGbcEUviro4PmsEtxAmehYgUGcwUjdj1SjqaWrP4aCjRqY68tfXekJtcR9kEfER5iWpOmZRBNGW8szHBaL3JmZx79Y0dSiD0PVQahHW4memvX3cC6diDTKeEQvTrUN0Md2GIFRFSpEobquXz6bGNijL15_eIiPwHThvPGMRPSn5sYXrchznwymB5lWmLT94HkeL6XKrGJJqtY3i90kBxphS-M2hAS2pVovpXCRqwToEuuK5KzwFhpwjR4Rw_rTyVTVmQ3_G9jHmfAzA90HWd3r1XdnSJHvRVUTeGmza0nGxkWWiDUdE=w1287-h965-no

You could eliminate that rear resonator completely if you wanted and just have the exhaust exit the muffler then out over axle. Thats how both of mine are.

Check your front wheel bearings. Could be bad or worn enough to be "loose" and need tighting. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

The power valves are vacuum actuated. In the MT they are just removed. Can swap intakes just fine. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Timing chain guides broken or worn make a tick and squeaky sound. Nothing to do with oil consumption. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Just a quick. Proof of concept with some scrap wood. Needs to be a hair less width and taller. Inside height needs to be 3-4" for me needs. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Key good? My wife's key for the 04 is worn enough that you can pull it out early leaving the radio on. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

You should be fine. I used to daily tow a 2500lbs trailer all over South Florida. As for your brakes, good pads and make sure you have good fluid. If its brown, then it's absorbed quite a bit of water. Time to do a flush and good bleed. Can be done with a buddy. Just make sure to buy 2 large containers of brake fluid. As for pads, I tried using Power Stop, but they didnt last 30k before falling apart. So went back to Akebono's. The Akebono's work good. But do take some time to warm up. As you experienced. Just have to make sure you leave extra room for braking. Being a boat trailer, if you do find yourself wanting more. Can look into surge brake setups, they work pretty good.

Also R12 requires a license to get ahold of. At least down here. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

P0011/12? Thats the cam shaft phase solenoid correct? You say about 60 miles post oil change. Highway miles? Check your oil. Have a leak? Could be consumption. If your low on oil. Those sensors freak out. First time happened to me I was doing 75mph down the turnpike and it went to limp mode. Pulled over. Opened the hood. Decided to check the oil. Way below low. Barely on the dipstick. Topped off. Started up and it cleared on its own. My 3.5 has some pretty bad consumption going on. Now smoke, no leaks. But my plugs do get kinda black. It's the oil rings. PS. I do believe I also have a shot converter. Always throwing P0420. Even after swapping O2 sensors. Just bying time to replace them both. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk