River044road
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Posts posted by River044road
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From N to D it doesnt even register at dead halt
Stays around 800ish
In D it will act like N
R, 1, and 2 will drop rpms
No hard shifts
No clunks
Operates like it normally would
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At dead halt, and shifted to D very little power transfer
Shift to 1 or 2 good to go
Once she's in 3rd everything works normal including OD
At highway speeds I can let off then accel and all works as it should
Sound like yours?
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I can get it up to 20mph "manually shifting" and switch to D and all shifts fine
Seems to only "act up" from a dead stop
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Issue is constant warmed or cold
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So I was coming off the highway and went to make a right turn hit the peddle and it decided to act like it was in neutral.
Shifted into 1st had acceleration
Shift into 2nd still going
Shift into D it would carry on
Come to a stop had to repeat
R works fine as well.
(Radiator is bypassed from transcooler, and trans fluid does not smell burnt)
Any insight to what could be causing this is greatly appreciated
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Man i hope not. Besides the injectors i want to check maf and fpr
Read that a bad fpr could cause the overflow issue
Only thing is i can hear something click like crazy when keyed to acc
Ill have more time later tonight to find the source
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All the injectors are stuck open and within seconds it will overflow and dump out the intake
Anyone else have this sweet carmod happen?
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I figured i should have taken everything from the junkyard xterra but i was too late
New plan sell just the super on ebay
Found a site that sells all the gaskets from bottom to top, oil pump, and 1mm oversized pistons and rings as a kit
Now my old block is sitting at the machine shop and the vg33er block will become a coffee table/jwfsol block
Also taking injectors and rods from the vg33er. Excited for it to come back
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Has anyone put themselves through this swap? Im currently doing it, and looks like im gonna be wiring a lot. (Sorry for double post just trying to get ans)
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In the process of getting this done and i feel life is about to suck being how it looks like I'm going to be wiring a ton of stuff
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Can you pm me the details of how you got it done
Specs and such.
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SFD
in The Garage
Who has em for sale?!
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So I'm thinking of doing the sfd sometime soon and the stock rim and tire set-up would just look terrible, at least stock tire size would. The issue I see would obviously be the front because of the strut. How have some of yall gotten around that?
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Btw if anyone wants a pair of these ARB airbags I have some ready to go.
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?????
Because he answered with a random response lol
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It does sound like valve seals, but it seems odd that they'd fail so early. I would also expect it to smoke on cold starts, and it doesn't.
That might make sense though because it takes a while for oil to get back up to valve train.
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Thou art a troll Sire.
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Well, you can unbolt the Cat and check to see if its broken inside, or any possible leaks. As far as the MAF goes, you could do some pin testing, but In not sure you will find a definate failure. IF I was looking at it, I would compare real time data from Consult, to what the specs are in the FSM. Driving the vehicle and watching Calculated Load, MAF meter voltage, and MAF sensor data. Under hard accel, usually the Calculated load and sensor data will drop out of spec. The reason the other side might not get picked up is simple. The ecu needs to see a two trip fault(thank you obd2), before it sets a code. One side might pick up quicker than the other. You could try swapping in a good MAF from another vehicle, maybe from another member in your area. Otherwise, you gotta take a shot at something. The MAF sensor is quite chaper than a new cat(plus, the cats dont normally go bad all by themselves). Every tech is differnet, but if he is good, he should of caught this and been able to diagnois it instead of just resetting a few things.
If the MAF was bad wouldn't you be able to see/feel performance drop?
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opened the cat up?
so he took it completly out of the truck or cut a hole in it? "looking inside it" ain't gonna tell you anything. Have actually seen that code issue on a fiew cars recently (not a brand specific thing) and the only thing that solved it was converter replacement on the vechiles we had come through the shop. Not a cheap fix normally(hell theres even a core charge on the y-pipe/converters for a Jeep Liberty 
) if your payin someone to do it, little less painful if you turn your own wrenches... especially if it was "just opened up"... whatever thats supposed to mean.In cases when a cat wouldnt fix the code what else would have been faulty?
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Sux tho if you cant see.
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I had a feeling that would be a craptastic mirror D:
Im looking to do that same idea but with this- http://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics%C2%AE-TT-CM04-Widescreen-Headrest-Universal/dp/B008EQQSXA/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1383883011&sr=1-4&keywords=7+Inch+16%3A9+TFT+LCD+Widescreen+Car+Rearview+MonitorThanks for the idea! It is defiantly going to help when going over hills. Nice to see what is on other side!
BECAUSE RACE TRUCK!
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Evap canister is on that side too.
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Haha never been a problem, but what does it not look like now you're making me suspicious that your're up to something suspicious. There's nothing illegal about it.
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This is what you really need to do http://wwwdelivery.superstock.com/WI/223/4093/PreviewComp/SuperStock_4093-3330.jpg
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Super Sweet Auto Trans Issue
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
My scanner either doesnt pull trans codes or didnt have any at the time i scanned
Everyone except one guy who worked at a dealer says electrical
And it makes sense to me