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mel.d last won the day on January 6 2016

mel.d had the most liked content!

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About mel.d

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    NPORA Regular

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Hankook Dynapro All Terrains 2" spacers (front) AC 2" lift springs (rear) KYB GR2 shocks Rugged Ridge manual hubs
  • Place of Residence
    San Diego
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
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  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
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    San Diego, CA
  • Country
    United States
  1. You might want to check the thermostats too. There's two on the VQ.
  2. I used a long handle 10mm or 12mm combo wrench. It sucked having to turn the wrench a quarter at a time, but with little room, it was the only thing that would fit. The three tubes you mentioned I believe are breather tubes for the differentials and tranny. If I remember correctly, they are attached to a mounting plate that is tack welded to the firewall. There was no way to remove them without breaker the weld. Since they are brass tubes, I carefully bent them out of the way and then bent them back in place when I was done. I don't remember the surface being too dirty, but I do remember using a small metal putty knife to scrape the surface smooth.
  3. I had the very same symptoms you were experiencing with the coolant leak. I could smell it at times and found coolant dripping down the back side of the block to the bell housing. I had done this repair roughly 3 years ago. I did not have to drop the transmission, just removed the top and bottom intake manifold. It was very difficult to do and I think I spent a couple of hours trying to figure out a way to clear the firewall. If memory serves me correctly, I had unbolted the crossover pipe and disconnected the hose from the secondary t-stat in order to get it loose. I wiggled it until it hit the firewall, but it would still not clear the mounting bolts. Using a pry bar, I pushed the pipe out while rotating it up and down, I was able to clear the top bolt by a few millimeters which allowed me to slide one side of the gasket on. I then did the same prying and rotating to allow it to clear the bottom bolt by a few millimeters which allowed me to put the bottom part of the gasket on. Looking at the last photo in your post, the head of the bolt looks like they could be removed with a special female star socket. Or you could put two nuts on the bolt, tighten them together and then use the bottom nut to remove the bolt. It would be more difficult to do with the little working room available. It may seem impossible to do, but I personally was able to do it. However my back was not happy with the several hours spent bent over on the engine. It's been a few years since I did the repair and it is holding up just fine. BTW, I don't recommend using Bar's leak or any other pour-in-the-radiator type repair. If left in the cooling system too long, it can clog your radiator passage ways and then you'll have overheating problems. Good luck.
  4. Factory thermostats do not fail open. It's been over 4 years since I replaced the water control valve, so I don't remember the brand I bought. Since your original water control valve lasted this long, just buy OEM and you'll be good-to-go for another 14 years.
  5. The water control valve is just another thermostat. If it fails in the closed position, then no coolant will flow through the block/cylinder walls. However you will still get coolant flowing through the heads since the first thermostat is working properly. The heater core pulls coolant from the heads not the block. In reviewing the cooling circuit in the repair manual, If in fact the water control valve is the root-cause, then your cooling system is probably only running at 70%. Since the water control valve is a pain to get to, I made sure I replaced mine with one that is designed to fail in the open state.
  6. Did you check/replace the second thermostat? It's located under the intake manifold in the rear of the engine (it's a pain to get to), If I remember correctly, Nissan calls it a water control valve and allows coolant to flow through the block. Does it overheat at idle? I'm wondering if you have a blockage or collapsed radiator hose.
  7. The fan control amp failed. Its an easy fix, but the part is a little pricey. If you have electronic experience, you can replace the mosfet.
  8. You should look into an electric impact gun. I have a Rigid R6300 heavy duty corded electric impact wrench that is rated for 450ft/lbs of torque. I've done about 8 timing belt changes and it never had a problem breaking free the crankshaft bolts. I've also used it to break free the bolts on my trailing arms with no problems. I've had it for 10 years and it's the best tool I've ever owned.
  9. Well the alignment shop said they could have fixed my camber issues even without the camber bolts. Another guy I wheeled with also had an AC lift and he got an alignment without the need of camber bolts. You should be fine.
  10. The auto climate uses a fan control amp. The FCA consists of a thermal fuse, MOSFET, and heatsink.
  11. Most of them only offer +/- 1-3/4. That was more than enough to get my alignment within spec with my AC lift.
  12. I just checked O'Reillys website and they are 28.99. They come as a pair. You will use one camber bolt per strut. If you were closer to me, I'd sell you my extra set.
  13. I bought my camber bolts from my local O'Reillys. I think the were around 17 bucks.
  14. I watch this show too. This and Street Outlaws are on my DVR.

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