fast5speed

Wow. If not for the Nissan badge, I would swear that's one of those Toyota vans. Those Toyota Previa vans were cool though. Mid-ship rear set up, and you could get them with a supercharger and a stick!

I, too, am sad I am late to the party and didn't get to see a picture. The way you guys are talking about it makes it seem like I really missed out

when I read the title, I thought this thread was asking if you absolutely needed a clutch safety switch. You don't, if that's what you want to know. When I did my 5speed swap, I just soldered the two wires together for the (I believe mine was called a neutral safety switch?) relay and effectively just completed the circuit. Works great. Never need to push the clutch pedal in to start the car! Really nice for when I don't want to get all the way in it and press the clutch to start it. Like when I'm doing work on it or something and don't want to open the door a million times. If your Pathy was originally an automatic, it should be fairly obvious. If so, there's probably still the A/T computer under the passenger seat. And if it's been taken out, there should be a bunch of remaining wires. Also, the carpet around the shifter and boot should be pretty ill-fitting. Another indicator is if everything looks factory around the pedal area where ahardb0dy posted a picture. If it looks legit, it's probably not been modified. When I put the 5speed brake and clutch pedal brackets in, it seemed like half the connectors weren't available for the sensors, forcing me to solder/jump the clutch switch. As far as possibly trying to fix your original issue and keep it as factory as possible, I would suggest you whip out a circuit tester (one of those little needle looking things with a ground clip and a lightbulb) and test the prongs on the relay as it's installed to see if it's relaying power as it should.

I have 1994 D21. 4x4, v6 all that good stuff. Pretty much the same as your WD21s as I understand, as far as the steering system goes. Pretty much, for some reason, I can't properly install my tie rods. I'm running into a couple different issues. First of all, the biggest issue is that, after a certain point, I cannot tighten the castle nut anymore. At a certain point, the mini-ball joint that makes up the bolt of the tie rod just spins in place. I try to turn the nut, and the bolt just spins. So I thought...this is ridiculous. There has to be something wrong. So I looked at the ball-joint/bolt OF the tie rod. And it's tapered. So I assumed that, somehow, the bolt of the tie rod is supposed to be pressed down into the knuckle? So the friction from the tapered part will stop the bolt from spinning? So I assumed that the tie rod has to be pressed down further into the hole. But, previously, I was already a bit nervous about putting too much pressure on the tie rod that the grease boot would squeeze against the knuckle and break. I will make a video and post it soon, but does anyone have any input at the moment? I've tried to gently use vise-grips to try to hold the bolt in place while turning the nut, but I can never get enough threads on the bolt to get a good grab. Also, I don't want to bugger the threads.

No offence, but on a scale of "not worth it" this one is probably at the top. It would become the epitome of "I wish I never started this project" Going auto to manual isn't that bad because it's mostly removing things. Going from manual to auto would be awful because there are so many things to add. torque converter, flex plate, transmission cooler, lines, trans computer, wiring, center console, etc etc. I believe it would consume a lot of your valuable time, cost a lot more money than you expect, and, in the end, your vehicle now has a lower resale value.

You can put all of it through the gear shifter. Be very gentle when trying to take out the drain plug. It is not the same size as a 1/2 drive socket head. but it will be tempting. It is, in fact, a larger size.

You had me worried! truly cringe-worthy. I admire you trying to keep your frame in such good condition. There should be more owners like you. Drilling slightly larger holes sounds like a very good idea to me. With all the gutterwork I've done in my life, I know it only takes a small leaf to start a clog in an entire gutter drainage system. When I wash my truck, I always spray the hose in as many holes of the frame as I can reach and spray it 360 degrees in the wellwheels. Haven't tried the pressure washer yet, but I've been fantasizing about it. Kinda scared what might come out though

Oh boy. You need to have a look under the hood of an older Volvo. I was helping a friend pull the motor on a 1975 Volvo 242. Holy brake lines! Dual master cylinders and 10 brake lines! In the service manual, bleeding the brake system is quoted as a 3 hour job. To address the OP, I think it would probably be best to use new parts. You can pick up brand newcalipers off Rockauto for like ~$30/side. Alternatively, you could buy a rebuild kit with new seals and all that. If replacing the calipers doesn't work then the other options are the master cylinder, and possibly an older brake line becoming porous I suppose. Can you have someone press on the brakes really hard and look for leaks? If your brake system is somehow sucking in air (other than due to the MC being empty), it must also leak fluid under high pressure.

x2 The reason why these great trucks are in the junkyard all the time... That revised Nissan part looks fantastic! and only $20! Not even worth my time attempting to solder my old one. As of very recently, I've been experiencing intermittent sputtering at idle and around 2300-2800 RPM, but only in 3rd gear (or so it seems). I have a 5 speed, so it is very odd to think that a problem only occurs in a certain gear. For the idle, the truck will bounce up and down, but not come close to actually stalling, for about 10 seconds, then stop. It's only happened twice in the past month. I was driving today, and my truck just acted like it was out of gas, in that 3rd gear 2300-2800rpm situation. It would sputter, seem like it had no power, and almost made me put my hazards on and park it. Then, I pressed the gas pedal a little harder and it came back to life spectacularly. Also, if I shift to 4th gear, it will act normal and power right through the 2300-2800 range with no issues. I thought it was a fluke, but I was able to reproduce the results pretty reliably. Is my issue possibly related to a loose MAF ground? If so, is there a way to test it under normal conditions? Or do I have to catch the issue in the act and jiggle the wire? Would my ECU have any invisible codes stored?

WOW!! Thanks. That was the issue. You nailed it instantly. I'm impressed. Most of my contacts had some black sort of build up. I think the issue is that they aren't actuating properly to make contact, as opposed to the build-up being the problem. I never would have guessed this. Now I know the issue and can snag a new one from the JY.

If you want to make a trip, there's a D21 in my area. King cab, 2wd, automatic I believe. 29,000 miles. $3000. Guy says it runs better than a new truck. Has sun faded paint though (try finding an old Nissan that doesn't). It's a 1990 or 91. Might be older than you're looking for Edit: it's a 1990 with 34k miles and it is a 5 speed. Asking $3000, but it's been on CL for months. Kinda sad actually. http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/cto/4229670310.html

Sometimes they just do, I guess. When there is too much load on the circuit perhaps. I know I've blown that fuse twice and it was because I tried to plug in the dash cluster after the truck was already turned on. Looking at one of those tiny red 10A fuses, it's easy to think maybe they could become subject to corrosion or wearing down some other way. If that happened, then they would have an even lower than advertised threshold before they blow. Sent from my SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

Reminds me of that guy on here several months ago that had us all on a wild goose chase. "The vg30e in my wd21 pumps out 200+hp and gets 30+mpg. Custom rear end, blah blah blah." Anyone else remember that guy? Said he was like 19 or something and fabricated everything in his spare time. To be honest, the MPGs our trucks get are kinda above average. I have a D21 King Cab, 4x4, 5 speed, SEV6. I use it for work, so it always has ~300-400lbs in the back. I'm running the stock 31x10.5 tires. My driving is probably 70/30 city/hwy. I get a solid average of 17-19mpg. I know it's not always a fair comparison, but most other [pick-up] trucks get like...low teens. Sometimes single digits. For a short time, I was looking to get a 1999-2005 F-250. The ones with the v10 struggle for 14mpg 100% hwy. The v8 gas managed 16mpg. ~12mpg or less in city. I was on InfamousNissan for a minute, and I think I remember the 4cyl 2wd 5speed hardbodies getting something like 24mpg at most. I think I'll stick with my 17city/22hwy. but you know what they say, it's all in the driver. Sometimes my 1995 Honda Civic hatchback gets 40+mpg, but I've managed to return less than 28mpg on occasion. But if you're determined, there are some basics you can do: reduce weight, reduce resistance, change gear ratios. You could take out the rear seats. Leave your spare tire at home. Remove A/C components (100+lbs believe it or not). Installing lighter wheels makes a huge difference. You could get thinner tires to reduce rolling resistance. But watch out, your braking power and suspension response will diminished. They will also wear faster.

It was more like 5 hours until I finally decided to use a compression tester and find it was blown. 5 hours of cleaning the carb, checking for spark, checking ignition timing, checking fuel supply, etc etc. You know how it is. Have to take everything apart and put it back together for every check lol. It didn't help that I was led on by it starting and running a few times, but only for a couple revolutions at a time. Back when I was stupid and didn't know anything about much of anything. I just kind thought 'well It's gotta start one of these times'.

It's not really this simple. Yes, it is true, but is too basic and oversimplified to be helpful. Actually, there are 4 requirements for an ICE to work. Spark, air, fuel, and compression. Realized that one the hard way when I spent 5 hours trying to kick-start a dirt bike to find out the cylinder needed to be bored. It sure did have fuel, air, and spark though!

Hi there o'knowledgeable NPORA members! Today (for the past few weeks actually) I've been having odd electrical issues. First, the low-beam on my passenger head light went out. Then, I noticed the high-beam on my driver's headlight went out. Odd, I thought, since the pass. headlight is only 5 months old. A couple days later (hadn't repaced headlights yet), at a red light, my dash lights suddenly flickered. A few days after that, I turned my headlights on, and my dash lights didn't come on, but my head lights still worked the same (one high, one low beam on opposite sides). I do landscaping, so I only drive my truck during day light, but I figured it was time to figure out what the heck is going on. I put in new headlights, and nothing changed. Still have the same low beam out, and the same high beam out. Checked my fuses for head lights and dash lights, all fuses working. Then, I noticed that my tail lights weren't working. I assume the tail lights are tied into the dash lights. When I say "dash lights" I mean the illumination lights for gauges. My idiot lights (CEL, battery, oil, brake, etc etc) still work. Is my headlight selector stalk broken or am I having serious issues with grounds? Looking to fix this relatively soon as we recently got a snowstorm and I need the 4x4 on the truck to get around. Thanks guys

definitely doesn't sound like a battery issue. The lack of dash lights is a dead give away for a blown "Meter" or "tail light" fuse. I can't remember. Check those fuses and see what comes up. I'm not sure about always, but in my experience, when that particular fuse blows (dash lights), my tail lights also don't work when I turn the headlights on. I'm pretty sure they are linked on the same fuse, which is why I can't remember if it's Meter or Tail Light.

Wow...that is some serious catastrophic damage to happen to such a low mileage engine. Just curious, why did you buy a VG33 from a JDM importer when they were sold here in the US and aren't in short supply? I suggest you rebuild your engine properly. You should replace all crank bearings and have the big ends of your rods resized to properly accept the new bearings. Also, the rod bolts are likely torque-to-yield, meaning you'll need new ones. ARP rod bolts are reasonably priced and are cheap insurance for spinning bearings in the future. Honing the cylinders and getting new rings was probably overkill though. I would be extremely disappointed and surprised if the honing did any benefits at all. Actually, an engine is at its best around 50k-60k miles when everything is broken in. I guess your clock is pretty much reset on that one. How long did you run the engine after it had started knocking?

umm yes. That's the entire point of offering/having different gear ratios. My other car is a 1995 Honda Civic. You may all be familiar with the ridiculously popular engine swaps into Hondas and all that. Well, when doing a 'B-series' swap (the engines from Integras mostly), you have a choice of pretty much 3 transmissions. A 'B16' (shortest gears), a 'GS-R' (medium gears) or the 'LS' (longest gears) transmission. Of course, if you have lower power, you want to make the most of it. So you find the transmission with the shortest gears to achieve the best acceleration. So, naturally, you go on a search for the B16 transmission. Only issue is, it makes your engine run at ~4500rpm at 75mph. If you take the 5th gear out of the LS and put it in the B16 trans, you are essentially trading a .848 5th gear ratio for a .714 (or ~18% reduction). Doing this procedure gained me a net of 5mpg. It affected my drive-ability very minimally. In the city, I still have 4 short gears, but on the highway, I put it in 5th and watch the RPMs drop way down. It made a significant difference. You may be able to do something similar with these 5 speed trans, but putting a 6 speed in is totally out of the question. I know anything is possible with enough fabrication and money, but let's not get into that. Like others have said, you would need to put in a vq35 mated to a 6speed trans out of a 350z or G35. Nothing else really came with a 6 speed. Or use the drivetrain from the newer Frontiers with the 4.0/6speed. If you can find a suitable 6speed, there are companies that will make you adapter plates for any trans/engine combo if you're willing to pay enough. Also, you'll find that a 6 speed won't really increase MPGs that much. You would think that the 6th gear would cause super low RPMs at highway speed, but this isn't the case. In a 6speed, the gears are spread differently so that the last gear isn't a whole lot lower than in a 5 speed. You just have better acceleration and slightly better MPGs getting to that last gear. It is possible you may be to rig something up with a non-Nissan 6 speed. Maybe a T56, or others. You may have better luck just changing your differential/final drive ratio.

I love how the members on this forum didn't get in some fit of rage that someone posted in an old thread. I always thought that was such a weird overreaction. Good tip btw.

Mine is in the dash (kind of?) right next to/below the steering wheel. Someone posted a video of tracing the e-brake cable all the way back to the rear brakes. Someone was also curious about swapping styles. I believe the general consensus was reached that it is much more complicated to do than it's worth.

There ya go! I don't like how these look at all. I think pretty much all crew cab trucks look goofy. The compacts (D21, Chevy S10, Tacoma, etc) look especially bad because the bed is shorted to like 3-4 feet. Pretty much making it useless as a truck...To me, it just looks all wack and out of proportion. The only one I would consider is a Frontier with a full size bed. You can get the full size trucks with a CC and long bed, but then you're driving a 22 foot vehicle and it's ridiculous in the city. Good luck parking. There was a Hardbody for sale on craigslist here that someone swapped a diesel into. I think it was the 3.2l turbodiesel? It was actually really nice, but he wanted $7000, which is a little too rich for my blood. And he said he was only getting like 23mpg which seemed really low. Hard to get parts for? But why would a diesel ever break down? especially a Nissan diesel. The reason you buy a diesel is because it never breaks. Ok. I'll do that and check for play. Another thing I remembered. On the highway, my truck "porpoises". I kinda discarded it as the truck being 20 years old and having awful roads, but my friend makes a big deal about it on the highway. The scenario is whenever there is a bit of a dip, not a sharp bump, the truck will smoothly bob up and down (as it's supposed to) to absorb the energy. The problem is that the 2 corners of the front bob at different rates. I haven't noticed it in a while, but I think the drivers side takes much longer to stop bobbing than the pass. side. I replaced both strut rod bushings and all shocks, but I bought Monroe shocks. I know Monroe aren't the best, but they have 6-9k miles on them. Could they be junk already?

Bit of sarcasm...? Not entirely sure. I bought upper control arm bushings a while back. When I was rebuilding my front end with my dad, and I had everything apart, I was trying to convince him to help me replace the control arm bushings...he was like "ahhh...that's a bunch of work. They don't even look worn!" They do look like a PITA to replace though. Just curious, If the alignment shop wanted to adjust my camber, would they have to tear down my front end and put another shim between the upper control arm and the frame?

I think Japan just hates us (the US). Other countries always get the good stuff. For example, I'm a bit of a Honda guy now (I know I know, but don't bust my chops too badly), Honda will sell a car in multiple countries. In Japan they will give it a 100hp motor, Canada will get a 80hp motor, and the US will get a 70hp motor in the same car! Well, thanks Honda... Honda didn't even sell any of the good stuff over here. Other parts of the world get the badass Nissan Patrol! We didn't get that Nor did we get diesel Hardbodies or Pathys! And the crew cab D21?! COME ON!!! I am not a fan of crew cab trucks at all (especially compacts), but Toyota sold their Crew Cab Tacoma over here years after Nissan had a CC D21, and Toyota cleaned house! Years after Toyota sells the CC Tacoma, Nissan finally sells a CC Frontier over here. Bleh! Don't even get me started on Skylines and the RB motors! This is mostly sarcastic, as I understand the red tape with emissions and all that junk, but still. We usually get the short end of the stick thanks to our regulations.

I have had bad experience with those Cardone axles. I was replacing an axle, and the 5-bolt spread on the front diff. side didn't line up. And the joints in the axle had...not "A lot", but they had too much play for a brand new part, especially it not being a reman part. it took me 2 hours to figure this out because the bolt spread was so close, but still didn't fit. I had to go up to Advance Auto and buy some junk reman axle, but it felt much better than the cardone one and fit perfectly. Rockauto was great about giving me my money back