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Manik last won the day on January 18 2015

Manik had the most liked content!

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38 Excellent

About Manik

  • Rank
    NPORA Old-Timer
  • Birthday 04/15/1968

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1995 Nissan Pathy, The usual, manual trans, etc., but, it's a "work in progress".
  • Place of Residence
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Skilled/Experienced Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Anything that combines automotive and fabrication

Recent Profile Visitors

3,106 profile views
  1. Get the problem corrected? I had a similar issue with my ‘95 and it wound up being one of the two fuse links that connect to the positive post of the battery. One connects to the alternator the other I’m sure provides power to the fuse block and ecu. While driving it would die or run rough, then miraculously start up and run just fine. One of the two fuse links in the circuit had broken, but, we’re still touching just enough to provide power to the vehicles cranking/starting systems, but, that’s all. Found the break, fixed it, albeit temporarily, it’s worked fine ever since. That’s been a couple of months. I plan on replacing both fusible links in that circuit and changing it over to a simpler maxi-fuse setup, eventually. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Manik

    injector harness?

    Did you purchase a harness? I may have one lying around. At one point in time I’ve had two complete VG30e’s in my shop. Message me if you haven’t found one yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Manik


    Absolutely. JDM is the way to go. The only issue that I had with mine was the difference in emissions equipment. Use your upper intake and your good to go! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Manik

    time for a new FORUM GAME

    Under Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Manik

    Need assistance with issue electrical.

    Well, the fuse was completely removed from the amp circuit in the passenger cabin fuse block, so, not really sure if there was power still coming in. Guess I pulled the trigger a little to quick. I may just bypass all of the factory wiring to wire the speakers in the doors. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Manik

    Need assistance with issue electrical.

    All from chopping out an amp! Gotta love these rigs! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Manik

    Need assistance with issue electrical.

    Did a little more searching on the issue and found the neither of the headlights are working and only half of the parking lamps. Rechecked every fuse, found one blown, low and behold, the stereo and dome lamps are working, but, not the headlights/park lamps. That’s an entirely other issue for another day as far as I’m concerned right now. Besides, gotta keep the little woman happy too, right??!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Well, I am attempting to bypass the factory clarion amplifier completely on my old 1995 pathfinder. One of the amplifier connector for the rear amp my kid chopped off years ago. Anyways, after installing a new stereo and using it for a couple of weeks with 6x9’s in boxes which never stay where you put them, I bit the bullet and just chopped off the other connector. Finally deciding to mount the speakers and bypass the amps completely by just tying the appropriate input and output wires together. Sounds easy right? WRONG! Started this whole process, had the rear inputs and outputs all tied together, I thought awesome, this was easy, attempted to power up the stereo to test the rear speakers and the head unit will not power on at all. It has both power circuits as well as ground. I thought, did I fry the unit somehow, replaced it with the factory stereo, same thing, no power, and I know it worked when I pulled it out. Any ideas out there? Oh! The clock under the tachometer isn’t working either, it quit at the same time, what am I missing? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Manik

    Mushy brakes

    Id check with some local auto parts stores and see if it’s possible to rent a pressure bleeder or a vacuum bleeder. I had issues with getting the clutch and brakes on these things with mushy pedals. I had a small hand vacuum pump, so, I made a hand vacuum bleeder. It worked awesome. Sounds like you’ve just got some trapped air in the system and either the vacuum or pressure bleeding process will eliminate that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Manik

    Code 32 - EGR Function

    Maybe check the EGR vacuum switch and there is a small almost oval shaped plate as I recall just behind the EGR that may need to be cleaned out. It has a tube attached to it that extends into the upper intake plenum and may not allow the EGR to function properly. It will run just fine, have no drivability issues, but, won’t pass an emissions test at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. I’ve got a set of pacesetter’s on my 95, fit was actually very good. I plugged one the useless hole with a steel pipe plug and welded that in. I relocated the O2 sensor close the EGR tube to facilitate it heating up on cold starts and drive ability issues. The EGR tube doesn’t really have a good fit in the bung on the header, but, it seals up ok. As for the y-pipe, I used the factory on, cut it apart, added slip fit connectors at the collectors with the with wide strap/band type exhaust clamps and a slip fit between the y that connects the left to the right down pipe and just used standard exhaust clamps there. It takes a little bit of finagling to get it all together, but, once done, it sealed up just fine. I did add an oil filter relocation kit and moved the filter to the drivers side wheel well. Not the optimal place for it, but, at least it’s easy to get to. I will eventually add a removable guard to protect the filter from punctures. Also note: if you decide against the relocation kit, lord help ya, because your gonna need it. Only $30 on eBay will save you a ton of cussing and lost tools due to them flying when you start cussing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Manik

    Tilt steering column covers

    just found this. you may be interested in. https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/ptd/d/1994-nissan-pathfinder/6621352360.html the column covers are in tact and look to be in good shape from the pics, or at the very least, maybe useable.
  13. I think its gonna be a GM 5.3 swap, not really sure yet and haven't put a solid plan together. There is so much support for the GM platforms its almost a no brainer, ALMOST.
  14. Manik

    Tilt steering column covers

    I know the feeling. Time to hit the salvage yards. Mine are junk too.. I've been trying to figure out a way to redneck engineer them so they will hold up and not totally look like crap. I have put some thought into it, but, not enough time to actually put the plan together. I will keep you posted on how I eventually get them fixed.
  15. Yes, the ones that caught fire were some of the Oldsmobile’s that had issues with the fuel injection system as I recall. And a 300I6 would be a cool foot longer than the VG, it could be done, but, I’d have to shy away from all that body work. That was my thought on the super charged version. I’ve seen the super chargers on eBay for a song and the 3.8’s are so common they’re extremely cheap. I’m thinking maybe a compound setup, turbo charger feeding a super charger. Supercharger for the low end grunt and turbo for the mid to high range power. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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