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Manik last won the day on January 18 2015

Manik had the most liked content!

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38 Excellent

About Manik

  • Rank
    NPORA Old-Timer
  • Birthday 04/15/1968

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1995 Nissan Pathy, The usual, manual trans, etc., but, it's a "work in progress".
  • Place of Residence
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Skilled/Experienced Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Anything that combines automotive and fabrication

Recent Profile Visitors

3,172 profile views
  1. Manik

    Gas line size

    It is. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk
  2. Manik

    time for a new FORUM GAME

    House Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk
  3. Manik

    time for a new FORUM GAME

    Pressure Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk
  4. There are a couple of companies oit there that have support the "odd-balls" out there like us. Calmini is one place to start. They have body and suspension kits that are pretty good. Usually you can do a 31" tire on pathfinders without any changes. As far as bumpers go, I built my own due to no aftermarket availability. The internet is your friend, I'd just start searching and seeing what's available for you. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk
  5. Manik

    time for a new FORUM GAME

    Cat Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk
  6. Get the problem corrected? I had a similar issue with my ‘95 and it wound up being one of the two fuse links that connect to the positive post of the battery. One connects to the alternator the other I’m sure provides power to the fuse block and ecu. While driving it would die or run rough, then miraculously start up and run just fine. One of the two fuse links in the circuit had broken, but, we’re still touching just enough to provide power to the vehicles cranking/starting systems, but, that’s all. Found the break, fixed it, albeit temporarily, it’s worked fine ever since. That’s been a couple of months. I plan on replacing both fusible links in that circuit and changing it over to a simpler maxi-fuse setup, eventually. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Manik

    injector harness?

    Did you purchase a harness? I may have one lying around. At one point in time I’ve had two complete VG30e’s in my shop. Message me if you haven’t found one yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Manik


    Absolutely. JDM is the way to go. The only issue that I had with mine was the difference in emissions equipment. Use your upper intake and your good to go! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Manik

    time for a new FORUM GAME

    Under Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Manik

    Need assistance with issue electrical.

    Well, the fuse was completely removed from the amp circuit in the passenger cabin fuse block, so, not really sure if there was power still coming in. Guess I pulled the trigger a little to quick. I may just bypass all of the factory wiring to wire the speakers in the doors. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Manik

    Need assistance with issue electrical.

    All from chopping out an amp! Gotta love these rigs! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Manik

    Need assistance with issue electrical.

    Did a little more searching on the issue and found the neither of the headlights are working and only half of the parking lamps. Rechecked every fuse, found one blown, low and behold, the stereo and dome lamps are working, but, not the headlights/park lamps. That’s an entirely other issue for another day as far as I’m concerned right now. Besides, gotta keep the little woman happy too, right??!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Well, I am attempting to bypass the factory clarion amplifier completely on my old 1995 pathfinder. One of the amplifier connector for the rear amp my kid chopped off years ago. Anyways, after installing a new stereo and using it for a couple of weeks with 6x9’s in boxes which never stay where you put them, I bit the bullet and just chopped off the other connector. Finally deciding to mount the speakers and bypass the amps completely by just tying the appropriate input and output wires together. Sounds easy right? WRONG! Started this whole process, had the rear inputs and outputs all tied together, I thought awesome, this was easy, attempted to power up the stereo to test the rear speakers and the head unit will not power on at all. It has both power circuits as well as ground. I thought, did I fry the unit somehow, replaced it with the factory stereo, same thing, no power, and I know it worked when I pulled it out. Any ideas out there? Oh! The clock under the tachometer isn’t working either, it quit at the same time, what am I missing? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Manik

    Mushy brakes

    Id check with some local auto parts stores and see if it’s possible to rent a pressure bleeder or a vacuum bleeder. I had issues with getting the clutch and brakes on these things with mushy pedals. I had a small hand vacuum pump, so, I made a hand vacuum bleeder. It worked awesome. Sounds like you’ve just got some trapped air in the system and either the vacuum or pressure bleeding process will eliminate that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Manik

    Code 32 - EGR Function

    Maybe check the EGR vacuum switch and there is a small almost oval shaped plate as I recall just behind the EGR that may need to be cleaned out. It has a tube attached to it that extends into the upper intake plenum and may not allow the EGR to function properly. It will run just fine, have no drivability issues, but, won’t pass an emissions test at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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