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slide

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Everything posted by slide

  1. On silver plate is details including frame (vin) number. Chassis has it on LHF (passenger side here in NZ, Drivers in US). Its on top of frame, under bonnet area near idler (RH drive) or steering box (LH drive). Assuming US spec also have it here as Japanese market terrano and NZ new pathfinder and navara have it here
  2. As for Japanese market, which we get here in NZ- no. Most have disc rear, only the low spec have drum rear. But only half (?) have LSD- may have been an option when ordering new?
  3. Search for VE diesel pump, they're all pretty much the same. Doesn't have to be Nissan, or even Japanese, any diagram shows ya how they work.
  4. " I have to keep pumping the diesel pump until the engine is warm" I presume you mean primer pump on top of fuel filter? If so you've probably got a leaking fuelpump. Go get you local diesel specialist to check it out, of if you want to DIY do some searching on how to test it out
  5. Have you removed and checked glowplugs? Or just put another power feed to them? (I'm confused by your description- used another power source via same timer? how does this become upgrade?) My bet its unlikely to be fuel system. If fuel filter was 'dry' and you went to start you'd almost flatten the battery winding it over to get it going. If after a few hours unused its enough to cause a problem, after 12-24 hours you'd struggle to fire it if airleakage was cause. But you could try pop bonnet, pump hand primer until it goes firm (and a few more to make sure) then try start. If its air in fuel it'll start easy as after this, if not symptoms will continue
  6. Bellhousings are not swapable. I'm pretty sure I used my original clutch fork and release bearing (and same td27 clutch and flywheel) with td27 slave cylinder. I can't remember which slave cylinder rod I used, pretty sure it was td27 one tho. So only bigbox part was the release fork pivot pin. Hope this helps as with time I've forgotten exact details as memories fade
  7. Doesn't hurt to check voltages too. Could be a supply/earthing problem, although probably 80% would be blocked nozzles/oneway valves and 15% motor seized problems. Leaving 5%for leaks
  8. Awesome! Great to know my theorys pretty bang on :-) What have you used for diodes? (obviously diodes, but where did you get them?) Does your dash display have the P-R-N-D-2-1 illuminated to indicate lever position? Damn, I was thinking of using these to trigger relay, but as I typed I realised that wouldn't be ideal. As even tho gearstick is in "D" doesn't mean the trans stays in 3rd, it will switch between 1-3(&4th with od button pushed). Maybe the ECU has some signal to (or from) it so it knows what ratio its in? Need to study the wiring diagram for this info I imagine
  9. Just noticed this thread, have just posted this on kiwipetes build thread, but I'll post here as it will be easier for others to find. I haven't tried this, but this is how I see it working; -The ECU controls Torque Convertor when not locked by relay (diodes stopping backfeeding power) -when mom-on switch is pushed it powers up pin 85, activating windings inside relay, which are earthed through brake lights bulbs (86) -windings move relay contact, putting power to terminal 87 -power flows through (green) diode, keeping power to terminal 85 (and thus holding itself activated) -when brakes operated power is put to pin 86 -when pin 86 and 85 both have power, no current flows so relay deenergises, removing power from pin 87 -when pin 87 has no power TC convertor operation returns to ECU controlled. - a pilot light could be wired to pin 87 to know when circuit is operational, or to wire to torque converter to know when its locked (both ecu and relay locking) -could get fancy and have both, or even a two colour LED Anyone have any feedback? Nath
  10. Pic shows up too small (on current computer) to know for sure, but I'm 95% sure its the transfer/gearbox/front diff breather pipe. Try tracing pipe see if it goes down drivers (RH) side, where you'll easily see it underneath coming from transfer case,
  11. I've got to 55 at redline in my diesel (just to see how fast it'd go). But thats 55kph, not mph
  12. Thats my picture with the measurements Its tricky to undo the bolts under the exhaust manifold, a socket on a swivel (universal) and the correct length extensions is how I got mine. The inlet manifold end is much easier. Then the pipe can be removed, although its hard to get out. Lots of wiggling will get it. If you have to remove the gearbox at all, then to remove pipe would be much easier. The blanking plate size is the same for inlet manifold and exhaust manifold. I used alloy for inlet, and steel for exhaust. I also made a fitting and used exhaust blank to mount an exhaust temp probe. Not the ideal location, but is easy way to mount probe. Trace vacuum piping back from the valve on inlet manifold end of EGR pipe, and remove it. I also removed butterfly from inside throttle body, and removed vacuum piping from this also. Picture is from underneath, looking up at exhaust manifold. You can see my blanking plate with temp probe installed. Blurry bit to the right of pic is gearbox bellhousing, and to the left is the body (footwell). Removal would probably be easier if a bodylift was installed. Its also a good idea to remove inlet manifold and clean out all accumulation of gunk buildup. I used steamcleaner, but have had suggested to use ovencleaner
  13. Sounds like you'll need to tap into alternator battery light feed wire. Use it to activate a relay if there's much current draw, or you may mess up your charge rate
  14. Its very easy to get a diesel running on a pallet to test it before installing it. 4or 5 wires and a fuel supply. Use an old bellhousing to mount the starter. You're very right, being a nissan diesel its unlikely to have anything wrong with it- providing its been stored under cover, no waters got in and started rusting bores etc
  15. Those clips can be easily replaced if you can get some second hand. Just remove carpet from up the back of the rear seat, you'll see a black plastic clip (kinda like an arrow in a circle) holding a loop of string. Remove the clip and pull broken seatbelt holder from the front. Tie on some electrical wire to replacement clip, poke wire through seat first and use it to pull string through. Push on seatbelt holder to assist pushing plastic clip back under string, remove wire, refit seatback. Bingo, all done
  16. Ah, now I see. We in New Zealand have D21 utility called Navara from approx 1986- 1998 (when d22 navara came out) So the 'D21' chassis has been available in 2- and 4-door ute, both (4x2 and 4x4) (navara), , and 2-and 4-door wagon (4x4 only) (terrano / pathfinder) Some of the earlier utes were just called 'Datsun' (ie Nissan make, Datsun model) Different names for different markets makes it confusing Many of our nations vehicles have been imported secondhand from Japan, so we get all sorts of crazy models and names
  17. Nah, I'm not confused at all. 'W' stands for 'wagon' right? And terrano is only available as a wagon. So if all I said was 'terrano', you will know its a wagon, but not whether it is a torsion front, seperate chassis, or mcpherson strut monocoque construction. You would know by year, but for a 1995, (when both type are available) what would you ask? I would ask if its r50 or d21 I suppose correctly I would describe it as 'q-wbyd21' But I'm not sure why to say its a wagon wagon d21? You are correct, I'm just trying to explain my logic. Maybe I'm a left-field thinker Does anyone have a link to what all the digits in the chassis number translate to? Would be good, Cheers, Nath Ps what you call hardbody, (the (no W)D21) we know as navara, but I believe are the same other than name (and LHD, RHD etc)
  18. Yes, you're correct. We just get lazy in New Zealand, ie if someone has terrano we ask 'D21 or R50'? Other pic was a bit small, this should be better. Things I've done so far- Rear Lsd install, Snorkell added, Mufflers deleted, resonater installed (still 2" pipe) EGR delete, EGT guage, boost upped to 15psi 15x7 steel rims and 31x10.5 tyres (very worn and measure only 29" ) '2wd' steering swap, homemade idler brace changed towbar with detachable tongue, recovery hook or towball options. Lifted rear springs, and torsions wound to match (gentle lift only) Plans to be done soon, front rated hooks and nudge bar install front lsd install rubber flares better and larger tyres But more important, try and get out more and have fun in it! (been a lot limited for time recently, work and family commitments)
  19. Hi everyone. Thought I might do the honourable thing and introduce myself. I've had a bit of a look round these forum, seems to be a good ol wealth of info My Names Nathan, I've owned my d21 terrano (td27t, 5spd) for 6odd years now, and been 4x4n and slowly modifying it for the last few. Got plently more plans for it, but can only be done as time and finances allow. Its one of my daily drivers, the other a s13 silvia. Wifes cars an a32 cefiro. Oh yea, I love Nissans.. Heres a pic of my beasty, taken 2 winters ago
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