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On silver plate is details including frame (vin) number. Chassis has it on LHF (passenger side here in NZ, Drivers in US). Its on top of frame, under bonnet area near idler (RH drive) or steering box (LH drive). Assuming US spec also have it here as Japanese market terrano and NZ new pathfinder and navara have it here

As for Japanese market, which we get here in NZ- no. Most have disc rear, only the low spec have drum rear. But only half (?) have LSD- may have been an option when ordering new?

Search for VE diesel pump, they're all pretty much the same. Doesn't have to be Nissan, or even Japanese, any diagram shows ya how they work.

" I have to keep pumping the diesel pump until the engine is warm" I presume you mean primer pump on top of fuel filter? If so you've probably got a leaking fuelpump. Go get you local diesel specialist to check it out, of if you want to DIY do some searching on how to test it out

Diesel in a petrol vehicle??

Have you removed and checked glowplugs? Or just put another power feed to them? (I'm confused by your description- used another power source via same timer? how does this become upgrade?) My bet its unlikely to be fuel system. If fuel filter was 'dry' and you went to start you'd almost flatten the battery winding it over to get it going. If after a few hours unused its enough to cause a problem, after 12-24 hours you'd struggle to fire it if airleakage was cause. But you could try pop bonnet, pump hand primer until it goes firm (and a few more to make sure) then try start. If its air in fuel it'll start easy as after this, if not symptoms will continue

Bellhousings are not swapable. I'm pretty sure I used my original clutch fork and release bearing (and same td27 clutch and flywheel) with td27 slave cylinder. I can't remember which slave cylinder rod I used, pretty sure it was td27 one tho. So only bigbox part was the release fork pivot pin. Hope this helps as with time I've forgotten exact details as memories fade

What did you need to know?

Doesn't hurt to check voltages too. Could be a supply/earthing problem, although probably 80% would be blocked nozzles/oneway valves and 15% motor seized problems. Leaving 5%for leaks

Awesome! Great to know my theorys pretty bang on :-) What have you used for diodes? (obviously diodes, but where did you get them?) Does your dash display have the P-R-N-D-2-1 illuminated to indicate lever position? Damn, I was thinking of using these to trigger relay, but as I typed I realised that wouldn't be ideal. As even tho gearstick is in "D" doesn't mean the trans stays in 3rd, it will switch between 1-3(&4th with od button pushed). Maybe the ECU has some signal to (or from) it so it knows what ratio its in? Need to study the wiring diagram for this info I imagine

Just noticed this thread, have just posted this on kiwipetes build thread, but I'll post here as it will be easier for others to find. I haven't tried this, but this is how I see it working; -The ECU controls Torque Convertor when not locked by relay (diodes stopping backfeeding power) -when mom-on switch is pushed it powers up pin 85, activating windings inside relay, which are earthed through brake lights bulbs (86) -windings move relay contact, putting power to terminal 87 -power flows through (green) diode, keeping power to terminal 85 (and thus holding itself activated) -when brakes operated power is put to pin 86 -when pin 86 and 85 both have power, no current flows so relay deenergises, removing power from pin 87 -when pin 87 has no power TC convertor operation returns to ECU controlled. - a pilot light could be wired to pin 87 to know when circuit is operational, or to wire to torque converter to know when its locked (both ecu and relay locking) -could get fancy and have both, or even a two colour LED Anyone have any feedback? Nath

Pic shows up too small (on current computer) to know for sure, but I'm 95% sure its the transfer/gearbox/front diff breather pipe. Try tracing pipe see if it goes down drivers (RH) side, where you'll easily see it underneath coming from transfer case,

I've got to 55 at redline in my diesel (just to see how fast it'd go). But thats 55kph, not mph

Also to help,

Thats my picture with the measurements Its tricky to undo the bolts under the exhaust manifold, a socket on a swivel (universal) and the correct length extensions is how I got mine. The inlet manifold end is much easier. Then the pipe can be removed, although its hard to get out. Lots of wiggling will get it. If you have to remove the gearbox at all, then to remove pipe would be much easier. The blanking plate size is the same for inlet manifold and exhaust manifold. I used alloy for inlet, and steel for exhaust. I also made a fitting and used exhaust blank to mount an exhaust temp probe. Not the ideal location, but is easy way to mount probe. Trace vacuum piping back from the valve on inlet manifold end of EGR pipe, and remove it. I also removed butterfly from inside throttle body, and removed vacuum piping from this also. Picture is from underneath, looking up at exhaust manifold. You can see my blanking plate with temp probe installed. Blurry bit to the right of pic is gearbox bellhousing, and to the left is the body (footwell). Removal would probably be easier if a bodylift was installed. Its also a good idea to remove inlet manifold and clean out all accumulation of gunk buildup. I used steamcleaner, but have had suggested to use ovencleaner