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pathyguy87

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About pathyguy87

  • Rank
    NPORA Newbie

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    87 Pathfinder 4x4 5spd 1" coil spacer and T-bar crank Bilstein 4600 shocks Lockright Locker Rear sway bar removed 31x10.50 BFG KO2 Brush guard w/Warn winch 9000lbs Light bar Clinometer
  • Place of Residence
    earth
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1987

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    kennesaw, GA
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

2,122 profile views
  1. No vibrations with mine, but I do experience similar symptoms of the kick or slack. I feel it when I am coming on/off the accelerator and when shifting. I think it is inherent in the locker design, but it does bother me to be honest. Like you, I thought it was the rear control arm bushings getting worn out, but I am reluctant to change them out for nothing.
  2. I just checked the plastic gear for the cable, I was really expecting to find it all worn down. I might try driving it around with the cluster removed
  3. Forgive me guys, I know this topic has been beaten to death. I have looked at all the threads and I am just stumped. My issue is the speedo never really works, sometimes it bobbles randomly or just reads 0. My trip and odometer do not function either. So I started to troubleshoot the different components that are known to fail. Here's what I have done: 1. Removed the gauge cluster and and spin the speedo with a drill motor. It appears to read just fine 0-60+ 2. Removed and repaired the white plastic sprung tip that inserts into the gauge cluster 3. Got under the truck and use the same drill motor to spin the cable. I get the same readings on the speedo 0-60+ 4. Pulled and inspected the speedo gear inside the trans, It appears to be in great condition with no signs of distortion. So what am I missing? I don't know where else to look
  4. The install is very straight forward. Just remove the 4x4 badges to reveal the mounting holes. You will need 4 bolts to mount the bar, I used allen style bolts with a countersunk head. The 4x4 badges will have to be shaved smooth on the backside so you can re apply them onto the light bar. The other thing I want to mention is the rubber seal that runs around the bar. I suggest when you inquire about the light bar, make sure that seal is included.
  5. Ok so I recently purchased a Terrano clinometer and I am preparing for install. My truck has square dash style, and I have removed the center air vent for better access. I can see there are in fact 4 square holes beneath the dash pad that will mate to the clinometer bracket. However, I am not sure how to go about cutting/drilling the dashboard to mount this thing. So I am curious if anyone has done this before and can offer tips or advice.
  6. I am currently prepping for a body lift removal. Today I removed front and rear bumpers, the front bumper lift bracket was a pain to get to. Went to the parts store to get shorter bolts for the body. Hoping the rest of this job goes smoothly
  7. The lockright will only fit in an open diff housing
  8. Make sure your interlock switch is in the off position.
  9. Did the maxima alternator upgrade today. Definitely an easy project if anyone is thinking about doing it. I just had to swap over the pulley and trim the fan spacer from my stock alternator. After that, it bolts right in. Also, scored an extra lego wheel at pull-a-part this morning
  10. Here's an older pic, I have since changed wheels and added a brush guard
  11. Me and a buddy spent the afternoon installing my new (old) brush guard. It was meant to go on a stock truck without a body lift, so we fabbed up some mounting tabs to make it work. Im happy with the outcome!
  12. Mount the lower brackets, and let the tire carrier rest on that. Now you can make your marks for the corner brackets. An extra set of hands is helpful, good luck

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