Vividkid

Mine was really bad. I ended up pulling the tank to clean it. I Filled it with water, drained and then used a shopvac to remove all the loose rust. I then had to take a 2X4 and beat the side of the tank to knock the rest of the rust off the walls and re-vacume. It took quite some time.

As you can see in the diagram, the injectors should always be powered up with the KOEO, or KOER, 12v from the ignition switch through a couple fuses, to the relay and to the injectors....If they don't have power in that circuit is your issue. The other wire pulses ground to the injectors directly from the computer. Good Luck...

If you don't use a press then you will put a lot of effort into changing them. I had access to a shop press, but even before I started, another Tech suggested I use an air hammer....Why would I use an air hammer when I have a press. Some people just prefer the hard way I guess. I did the bottom 4 bushings. OE bushings. Set each end on a socket that's large enough to grab the eyelet of the arm and let the old bushing fall into it. use another socket that exactly the same size as the sleeve of the bushing otherwise you'll just push the rubber out. The first couple pumps it should *snap* when it breaks loose after being in the arm for 20+ years, but it should come pretty easy after that.

Replaced the old starter I had rebuilt twice already...come to find out it was the wrong starter to begin with...compared to the old one. A lot of folks have issues getting the top bolt for the starter...trick is to remove the bottom bolt, get a short 14mil between the starter bolt and exhaust pipe and hit with an impact...itll push the starter forward and leave the bolt up in the car. Should take about 10 mins for the entire deal. Replaced the 26 year old pressure line for the power steering.... Getting ready to replace the front axles and the what I like to call the 'radius arm bushings'...I have no Idea what Nissan calls them... Just need some new tires and fresh timing belt and itll be ready for the move north... and you think some jobs are silly on a wd pathy... How about a radiator on a ford with a 6.4. This thing has coolers for the coolers. Took about 3 hours.

Mine had a good pump but crap in the tank...make sure the tank isn't clogging the pickup...

Did you check continuity from the PCM to the injector? If so and it shows good continuity you need to do a voltage drop on the wires in question. You need a factory wiring diagram to start off with. Next disconnect the suspect connector/circuit, in your case the injector. Disconnect the harness from the computer. I like to use a conventional test light but a rigged up automotive light bulb works great. Now you need a some current to run though the wire. I prefer a 12v car battery, but a 9v battery like from an old garage door opener works just as well. You need to connect the battery to the circuit with the test light in series. **Make sure you are on the correct wires and the component and ECU are unplugged or you could introduce voltage to where it's not suppose to go!** If the bulb or light is dim then you know there is an issue in the specific wire either corrosion, or pinched wire that will give you good continuity but cause a voltage drop and not let enough current flow through the wire. You can also use a DVOM if you want to get super technical (Youtube Voltage Drop, there's some great videos). Hope this helps. This technique has saved me countless hours of guessing by isolating a bad wire.

When you randomly crawl under the truck and spin the front drive and make sure your auto hubs are still locking.

If it's not leaving a giant puddle when you park then the leak isn't worth fixing.

I cant believed you pulled the entire dash to find a squeak, must have been pretty damn loud to chase a 'squeak' down on a 20 year old truck. I Dislike pulling dashes.....I've pulled many, but never on a 1st gen pathy. Good job.

Sounds to me like you have a rod knock. Make sure you don't have any vacuum lines crossed. Also a bad plug wire or cracked spark plug could be causing the issue. They make a hell of a 'snapping' sound if it's finding ground before the cylinder.

There's a pannel back there with 3 8mm bolts. It's just big enough to get the fuel pump out.

You should be able to feel the 'action' of the door and cable when you move it from hot to cold with the slider. If it feels to 'light' then you have a cable/door issue. If thats fine then you are either low on coolant or have a clogged heater core. Pull the hoses and flush it out either with water or try and blow it out with compressed air(not liable if you blow up your core). I was able to blow mine out after it sat for years. It had chunks of nasty built up in it.

I had a 1991 300ZX same motor...I hated working on that car...

update?

If I had to go through all that crap just to buy a cat...Id move out of California. Sorry, I just don't see why a freedom loving American would put up wit that kind of control over how you repair your car. A 3 way cat is a 3 way cat...If it passes an emissions test then what the f*ck is the difference if it's bolt on, or weld on or 2 or 3 inches....Sorry just venting. PS there's no such thing as a 'High Flow Cat'....Take a pipe, stick some honeycomb in it and you have a cat....The honeycomb is the same with all manufactures......