Swanicyouth

So, I found a fix for this.... Called around to local Nissan dealers to get an OE PCV valve. Nobody had one in stock... Really didn't feel like leaving the PF apart for a bunch of days to order one.... Not that it matters, but the OE Nissan PCV costs $20! The aftermarket one was $3. So, I bought yet another (3rd) new aftermarket PCV valve and sealed the outside with epoxy. Now it's never coming apart. It seems whoever made these old stock aftermarket PCV valves (all the aftermarket ones seem to be from the same factory) used some kind of glue to hold the valve together that has dried out over the years. I could easily see someone installing one of these valves and it comes apart during the installation process when reinstalling the upper intake - and the person not noticing. That is, until they start the car and it has a massive vacuum leak. Anyway, vehicle is back together and runs fine. Power valves were rock solid tight. I bought thread locker to lock them down - but they were so tight I didn't mess with them There seemed to be a lot of oil in the plenums. But looking around, this seems to be normal for this engine. I also found the "breather" hose that goes from valve cover to valve cover (under intake) was split on each end. It's a pre-molded factory type hose, but aftermarket bulk emission hose works fine to replace it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Well...I figured out what this thing is. Now I have 2 of them. 1. Bought VC gaskets and PCV valve from Rock Auto. 2. PCV valve from RA broke during installation. I mean I just touch the hose end and it broke. 3. Looked around locally and found another PCV (same manufacturer). 4. It broke when I tried to hook the hose up to it. This piece is inside of the valve. Lemme tell you, I have been working on cars for a long time, and have never seen a part that just breaks when you touch it. Do not buy this PCV valve... I have the intakes off, this was not a some difficult installation. I basically pushed the hose on the valve an the end snaps of twice.

So, I'm doing valve cover & intake gaskets in my R50: ...and, I found this part underneath the vehicle (car is still apart): Whatever it is, it definitely wasn't below the vehicle before I started - because I'm working on a tarp I just put down. When I found it, it was as clean as it looks (no oil), so it's not part of the valve train or inside the engine. Anyone know what it is?

Thanks - it's an auto LE. Will check power valve screws and replace PCV valve. It almost looks like it's possible to change the valve cover gaskets without removing the intake??? Spark plugs were change about a year ago with Nissan factory spec'ed plugs. Dunno. FSM is little help on this job. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

My valve cover gaskets are leaking slightly on my 01 4wd PF 3.5l. I have a few questions that I could use some help with before I tackle this job... 1. It looks like this vehicle has 3 plenums? A top one that splits in two - and a lower intake manifold. Correct? It looks like just the top plenum (2 pieces) needs to come off to replace the valve cover gaskets? 2. I understand some spark plug seals are not serviceable - and you have to replace the valve cover if they are leaking. However, my car has the aluminum valve cover - and it looks as though they are available as part of this kit? 3. Anything else I should replace while I have the plenum off? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Just order the aftermarket Hitatchi part. That's what I did a few years ago - problem fixed. They call it a junk yard because it's a yard basically filled with junk. When you order the the part - you will get the aluminum piece as well. They come as an assembly. Of course, your ECU could be fried.... The idle relearning procedure didn't work 100% for me. After you drive it a while - it will relearn the idle on its own.

Me cats

Detail guy.

Detail guy.

No there are parts stores everywhere. I just want to use the Nissan filter. So, it looks like they are selling me an oil filter that "will work" - as it's just longer. I still don't understand why they won't sell me the right damn one listed in the parts book. Next time I'm going in with the part # and of they don't have it I'll go elsewhere.

Can someone shed some light on why my Nissan dealer INSISTS on giving me what I think is the wrong oil filter for my 01 R50 PF 3.5l ???? So, EVERY time I go to the dealer they give me this oil filter (15208-9E01A): It clearly says on the box it is for a VG33E (3.3l) PF. In fact, the box mentions no where it is for a 3.5l anything: Every Nissan parts catalogue I look at says is should be this part number: When, asking the Nissan parts person to "double check" - they still tell me the oil filter they gave me is correct. But, I can not back this up. This always happens at this dealer. I can't recall what filter I got last time, but one time they gave me a filter that either just wouldn't fit or had damaged threads from new. Why won't they just give me the right filter? I can find no info this filter is for a 3.5l.

I can help you with this. I replaced all 4 of the cats to the tune of $3700. I'm familiar with the set up. I didn't do the work myself - Nissan did it, because the pipes coming off manifold are buried and my PF doesn't fit in my garage. I crawled under there a few times and said this looks like a PIA without a lift. While there are technically 4 cats, 2 of them are after the main cats and are not in all aftermarket setups. They may also be called "resonators". The important cats are the ones coming directly off the manifold - not the ones you see underneath. I believe the set up I ended up with were aftermarket main cats (the Nissan ones were $$$) - the rest back I went with Nissan parts. A year and a half later no problems. My cats failed do to clogging and the vehicle lost power. Oddly, the CEL never came on. I also ended up hanging a new Bosal exhaust after the cats. Bosal make a complete bolt on aftermarket setup from the manifold back as well.

Hi peeps. Was driving along and car starting hesitating and CEL came on. CEL stayed on - but hesitation stopped. Scanned the codes and got P0300 (random misfire) & P303 (misfire cylinder 3). Plugs were changed about a year ago with factory NGK plugs with no issues since. Reset light & went for multiple rides. After a while hesitation reappeared and CEL came on for a minute and went out. I ordered a new Hitatchi coil and NGK plug for cylinder 3. I'm wondering if anyone has experienced this and what the resolution is. I haven't received the coil yet - but I'm crossing my fingers it will resolve the issue.

Likely your cats are clogged. At least on one bank.

Gabriel is not good. They are soft an bouncy. I used to install them and they were always mush. I've looked at those as well - but I'm going with KYB. When I was wrenching, we used to call KYB "Kick Your But" - because the pistons are so hard to push in. The Gabriel's are like they are damped with mashed potatoes.

I had the recall done and have been all up in the wheel wells myself - no rust there. Recalled came out OK with no rust. There really wasn't any rust anywhere else on the vehicle except the spot I had repaired. What product do you use to do this?

Here are the afters:

So, my 01 PF is in pretty good shape - but it was forming rust under the plastic rear fender flares and on the crease on the rear quarter panels where the door closed. Pulled off the plastic flares to find this: So, I went to the body shop. Estimate was $2300 to fix. They had to fabricate new pieces of the quarter panels, paint - and they also fixed some rust in the crimp welds.

2001 PF LE 4x4 Bayshore Blue 120k I bought this with 84k. What have I done since? 1. Replaced all catalytic converters - $4k at Nissan dealer. That hurt. All other repairs done at home: 2. Replace cat back exhaust with Bosal parts 3. Replaced all belts 4. Changed trans fluid 2x and added Lubeguard Red transmission additive. Fixed shudder at lock up. 5. Oil changes every 7k with Mobil1 5 / 30 ESP & Nissan filters. 6. Changed air filter 2x. 7. Changed plugs with Nissan plugs. 8. Changed headlight bulb 2x. 9. Replaced complete front axle assembly due to leaky boot. 10. Removed Nissan rubber door guards and running boards. 11. Replaced tires with stock size General AT2 12. Paint correction, numerous detailing type of things. 13. Replaced both differential fluids with Mobil 1 fluid. 14. Replaced front chrome grille surround with black one. Next up, I have an appointment next month the get this rust fixed. $1600 estimate at local body shop: After that, I'll be doing shocks, springs, and struts at home. **sorry, can't find any pics without running boards. Just took them off.