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damuho

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Everything posted by damuho

  1. Interestingly, I learned more about lifting my WD21 from other threads and only now did I find this one which probably started it all - thanks to the contributors! Only now after I just cut the pigtails off of new Moog CC782 coils meant for JGC fronts. The cut coils are now 18.5" long. They are variable rate springs with wire diameter at 0.588". Will be installing them with a Rancho 5000 set supposedly good for 0-2.5" lifted WD21's. My Pathy now has 17" wheels (set of 5; +15 offset) from an FJ Cruiser. With a full-size spare on my carrier, I hope to get at least 2" of lift. Can't wait for the weekend!
  2. I had to remove the last two bolts holding the A/T oil lines to make room. While pulling the transmission lines downward and towards the center, I was able to squeeze the starter out. You're right adamzan, installation is so much easier! I hope my new starter will last a long time. There is some oil on the starter and it seems to be coming from the oil pressure sending unit. The sending unit appears to have been replaced by the previous owner with one that has the wrong connector housing so the housing was totally removed to expose just the spade connector to make it work. I replaced the sending unit with the correct replacement. Thank you for the assist!
  3. I finally got the top bolt out! Slightly denting the heat shield around the area of the socket and extension really helped a lot. The 14mm socket sat nicely over the bolt - followed by a 3" extension, a universal joint, an 8" extension and the 3/8" ratchet, in that order. I used a short pipe to increase my leverage. Thanks for the help! Next is the challenge of pulling the starter out through the front.
  4. Yes, stock exhaust. I will try to pry the heat shield - a very small change will help a lot, I think. I was playing with various combinations of two 8" extensions, three 3" extensions and two universal joints. I have tried it from way up and way back.
  5. I'm in the process of changing the starter on my '95 and got stuck on the removal of the top mounting bolt. The bolts are 14mm but I'm curious if the OP intentionally used a 15mm socket to make the combo of extensions and universal joint work. I just couldn't grab the bolt using a 14mm socket. The exhaust pipe is in the way. Someone actually posted a video on YouTube on how to remove the starter using the same combination of extensions and a universal joint but it didn't really show how it engaged the top bolt. I was thinking of denting the exhaust pipe a bit to make room. I'd appreciate any insight from members who have done this. Thanks!
  6. I agree with the others. My 1986 D21 pickup has 323K miles. I have changed the oil on it since new. The only couple of times someone else worked on it was for clutch replacements.
  7. Assuming the wiring is correct, is the fader control in the new stereo set to the middle and not just to front?
  8. I'd suggest checking the ground wire as stated by Slarti. When I got my Pathy one of the quirks that came with it is how the brake lights worked: The parking lights work fine but when I depress the brake pedal, the parking lights will go out and only the driver side brake light works. I checked the voltages and grounding on the sockets and found that on the driver side, the socket ground does not exist. The wire is physically attached but electrically, appears disconnected. I did a quick test and disconnected it and inserted it temporarily between the bulb and the socket and everything worked as it should. I then soldered the wire to the socket to secure it.
  9. Does the klonk appear to be coming from both rear wheels? Are the wheels, lug nuts and rotors stock or aftermarket? It might not be the brake shoe assembly that is moving, but the rotor/disc itself.
  10. If, let's say, you are rolling forward to test for the klonk and you hear it, what happens if you release the parking brake and do it again in the same direction? Does the klonk go away and will occur again only if you do it rolling backwards?
  11. Have you tried wiggling the fan speed lever a bit (slightly up and down) to see if the AC light would come on? I noticed this a couple of days ago on my Pathy and if I wiggle the lever while at the "1" setting, for example, the AC light would come on. I did it a few times until the AC light would remain on. The fan speed functionality of the lever did not have any problem.
  12. Sorry for resurrecting this old post. I've learned so much from this site, it's time to contribute... I got tired of having to carry a clicker and decided to buy a used Homelink mirror with compass from eBay ($48). The mirror came off of a 2004 Infiniti M45 and except for the compass, is very similar to the mirror on my 2006 Infiniti G35. I made sure the wire harness and locking screw came with the mirror. I plugged the mirror to our G35 to see if it would work and it did. I then used my multimeter to determine the wiring. I attached an image outlining the harness (as viewed from the front of the connector). One wire I had to add is the switched 12V when the ignition is in the ON position; the other wires are available from the dome light. I got the switched 12V from the stereo wiring and routed it under the dash and instrument cluster and up to the windshield frame to the dome lights. There are 5 wires on the harness - I didn't use two of them because I do not know what they are and have no means of figuring out what they are - my G35 (no compass) only had 3 wires. They may have been connected to sensors from the ECU as explained in a previous post. I looked for the appropriate metal bracket and found one from Napa Auto- part number BK 7302023. These are only $6 directly from their store - some people ask more for them (between $15-20). It's a kit with the cleaner and glue and is very intuitive to use. Just make sure you are sticking it at the correct location on the windshield because the bracket will be stuck permanently - I drew alignment marks on the glass while adjusting the mirror to its working position before gluing the bracket to the windshield. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9bmmLxtE0tYNjQxeHloN1czUWc/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9bmmLxtE0tYbnVma2FQZ1JNcnM/view?usp=sharing
  13. I'm not sure about the manual WD21 but my D21 pickup with a manual transmission has a clutch switch that malfunctioned because the rubber pad that activates the switch when the clutch pedal is floored has deteriorated. The symptoms are the same as yours. I ordered a replacement pad from Nissan but it was not the same size (the stud in the middle is too big) so I just taped a rubber cushion in its place. I also wonder about that alarm light that is continuously blinking. If the alarm is somehow active and it has starter-kill, it might be what's causing your no-start.
  14. I used the Gates kit from Rockauto in my last timing belt change. Works well.
  15. Your description of when the problem first occurred sounds very familiar. I had a similar experience with my D21 pickup where it drove fine but then won't start on my next try. As I was troubleshooting the problem, I found this quarter-sized rubber padding with a hole in the middle lying on the footwell. This is the rubber padding that engages the clutch switch to make sure that the pedal is depressed all the way when starting. Because of age, the stud on the center of the padding has worn off - the center of the padding is where the switch touches. Without the padding, the clutch pedal now has a hole and the switch is no longer engaged when fully depressing the pedal - the switch simply goes through the hole.without getting activated. I would give that clutch switch a more thorough check.
  16. When I got my '95, I noticed that when I stepped on the brakes, the passenger side tail light functions normally (it brightens) but the driver side dims. The lights are normal when I'm not stepping on the brakes. I traced the problem to be a grounding issue on the lamp socket itself on the driver side. With a multimeter, it was clear that the socket ground wire isn't connected. To check quickly, I pulled the wire, stripped the end and inserted it between the insulator around the socket and the socket itself. The tail lights worked as they should! I then soldered the ground wire to the socket to secure the connection.
  17. It's good to hear you got your problem solved! I had a problem with my '86 Hardbody's ignition switch where after the truck is started, the switch actually stays in the Start position (even though I could feel the key "return to ON" after starting). So what would happen is that every time I stepped on the clutch to change gears, I will hear the starter grinding against the flywheel. My truck was on its 25th year then! 310K miles now and still my daily driver. While reading your detailed first post, the first thing that came to my mind was a similar problem I had with my Hardbody (months after the ignition switch was changed). It turned out to be that the rubber pad on the clutch pedal that depresses the clutch switch when starting, has worn off. The center tab that plugs into a hole on the top of the pedal came off so nothing is engaging the switch and all I hear are the same clicking noises you described.
  18. Thanks, OP, for the detailed reply! Yes, I agree with you on refreshing as much of the tranny while it is out.
  19. Hi, OP! Can you share where you got your rebuild kit and the rest of the replacement parts you used? I looked in Amazon but can't find it. Someone local is selling a no-reverse tranny which I'm thinking of buying to rebuild. The one on my Pathy has the same no-reverse issue. Thanks!
  20. As already mentioned, the switch is for your fog lights. Fog lights only turn on when the low beam headlights are on which is why the light on the switch is on in this condition. If you turn on your high beams, the light on the switch will turn off.
  21. I agree it's because of low brake fluid (temporarily, in your case). When I bought my Pathy, both these lights were on and went off as soon as I topped off the brake fluid.
  22. I forgot to mention that the front end was a bit high after correcting the mounting of the lower ball joints. I adjusted the torsion bars to lower it to my liking.
  23. Yes, the car must have been driven like this for a while and it's troubling because when you max out on the steering, you will feel the stopper grind into the groove on top of the bracket and it will take some muscling to steer it back out. It is a problem that you would want to be seen right away. The car was sold to me by a graduate student who inherited it from his parents. Except for an unglued headliner, which I reupholstered, the interior is very good after I cleaned it. The engine on this car is in great condition. I just need to have the no-reverse AT issue fixed. Thanks again for your help! The world needs more people like you!
  24. Thanks to ahardb0dy, I have corrected the mounting of my lower ball joints. Here are some pictures after the fix: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B9bmmLxtE0tYYk9sVVgtT1VPWGs https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B9bmmLxtE0tYR0lETEk2R0RaSVU https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B9bmmLxtE0tYLTQ4ZXh0aWx1RDQ
  25. Thank you very much for taking the time to look closely at my picture and comparing it with your Pathy! I really appreciate your very detailed reply! I will start working on it tonight. The previous owner had all the service on this car done at a Firestone shop. I am surprised they screwed it up because my Firestone shop does a good job on my cars - alignment and tire change jobs. I will report here on the result of my work. And thanks for the links to the FSM. I could definitely use it! :-)
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