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WxChaser

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    114
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About WxChaser

  • Rank
    NPORA Veteran
  • Birthday 05/05/1992

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1993 Pathy, SE, 4x4, 5 Speed Transmission. Used primarily for getting to and from school, and for Storm Chasing.
  • Place of Residence
    North Carolina
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    16-21
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Well, I've since checked the MAF wires... they all seem fine. Disconnected the harness while running and it caused the truck to die. So I know the MAF is working properly. "cleaned" the EGR by spraying a bunch of carb cleaner into it (assumed this was a way to do it, may put it in the parts cleaner bin at work). Adjusted the distributor to set the idle higher, which did take away the rough idle issue. However, if I slowly let the clutch out, and then apply the gas, the motor has a hard time getting going. At a certain point it picks up and goes, but there is still a power loss. Could it be an Idle Air Control Valve? A coolant temp sensor? Something else I'm missing? Also, as an FYI, when the truck ran fine awhile back, whenever I kicked the AC on, it dropped RPMs slightly for a second then kicked it up about 50RPMs higher than normal idle. Now, when the AC is cut on, the idle goes to a really rough idle, and there is more power loss when driving. I will try and check the codes sometime Friday. I think the Pathfinder is a bit pissed at me for going to buy a Ford Ranger a couple weeks ago.
  2. Got it warmed up and pulled the connector, and the idle didn't change. My thought process then tells me that it is the O2 sensor malfunctioning. Might go check to see if I can pull the codes on it to see if anything is stored.
  3. Awesome! Will check it tomorrow!
  4. For starters, this is a 93 pathfinder with a 5 speed trans. 160k on the clock. Just started out of nowhere this week, idling low (500-450 rpm) after it warmed up. Go to drive and slowly letting the clutch out nearly kills it. Give it gas at the same time and there's no power. It takes a while to finally catch and go. Top end power (3000 RPM) does not have same feel. Struggles to get to 65 on interstate and climb minor hills. To get it going I have to rev to 1800-2000 RPM and let the clutch out. But overall lack of power across the board. New fuel filter, air filter is fine and I cleaned the butterfly and air intake out real well. Timing should be fine. Could it be the EGR? Or is there something else in the mix? Or it's probably the fact that I went to test drive a ford ranger the other day, and the pathy is feeling a bit pissed at me.
  5. Thanks for the help guys. Give me crap, but this isn't actually my car.. it's my girlfriend's. You'd be amazed at the looks I get when she climbs out of the driver seat and I get out on the passenger side. But the car is up and running well! Think it's still throwing the CEL but when she runs off to Poland next month I plan on doing some big work on the car for her as a surprise. I'll probably refer back to you guys for advice and fixes! Again, thanks for the help.
  6. Hey all, Problem was fixed! Changed the fuel filter and it runs normally. Still have the CEL but I will try and figure out how to check the codes on that. Literally pulled the fuel filter and watched black colored fuel run out. Probably clogged up really nicely.
  7. Hey guys, Have a 88 Nissan 300zx that has had a CEL on and off for the past week or so. Came on again today and is running rough when sitting in the driveway. Problem really began 5 mins before getting home, as the car was accelerating up a hill, it shuttered and the RPM's weren't rising (to pick up speed). Made it home fine but wasn't running right when we went back out to look at it an hour later. I think it's an O2 sensor. Can't check the codes easily. Took the air cover off and it ran slightly better, which tells me that getting more air to the system helps keep it up. Need a quick response as this is a daily driver and needs to be fixed ASAP.
  8. Thanks all, I think I'm going to order another T-belt kit (the one that's on there has only 20-30k on it, but seeings how it's getting to almost its half lifespan, I might as well change it to avoid this problem again. Luckily I work in our fleet maintenance shop, so I'll tear into it after work this week. I'm not sure why I forgot to set it to TDC while I was there, and get everything lined up. But I'll be sure to tear back into it and redo the timing stuff. I don't believe I'll have a problem with it starting back up again once that's done. But I'll use our compression check tool at work to see that everything verifies. What's the standard range for compression on the VG30E?
  9. So I took on the fun challenge of changing the water pump. Before I actually got into it, I was led to believe you only had to go to the upper timing cover. Turns out the whole process is the same as doing the timing belt. Whoever designed the pump for the VG30E should be fired. Anyways, I reassembled this evening in the shop after work. Everything was put together nicely. Added coolant and was ready to start. Then she started to turn over, but it sounded ugly, and she never started. Tried again, and again, and again, no go. When I did the T-belt a couple years ago, I remember having to set the engine to TDC. Even though I didn't adjust anything, did I still need to turn it to TDC? I can't confirm this, as I wasn't fully watching, but when I took the T-belt off, I think the driver side cam sprocket sprung back into a different position. If it did, I'm sure that's why I'm having this problem. I really don't want to tear back into the system, but if I have to to get it running, I will. Any suggestions?
  10. Changed out the water pump after it had been leaking for a few weeks. For some reason, I've read (on here I think) and also in the Chilton manual that to remove the pump, you don't have to go any further than removing the top timing cover. Busted that. Had to go all the way to timing belt removal to get the pump off. PITA but it's done. Thermostat changed again (T-belt was done with a tstat change in April 2011. Pump wasn't changed then because the belt actually slipped and I had no idea if she'd start again). New pump and stat. 90A alternator mod coming up, then E-Fan conversion from Maxima soon. Looks like a rear main oil seal is needing to be done.
  11. Can anyone list what all I'd need to pull from the Maxima to do the conversion? I'm not certain of all the components needed (other than the fan itself). All your help is greatly appreciated.
  12. Has anyone done the e-fan conversion? I know there's kits online to buy, but I thought someone had mentioned a taurus fan would work? Help would be great, just need to know what all I need to convert. Thanks.
  13. So the whine is continuing, but everything on the vehicle seems to be okay. I think I'm going to order a new water pump just because, and I'll order a new idler pulley too as I think that's actually the source.
  14. Yes I understood you Kingman, process of elimination.
  15. Well apparently it seems the noise doesn't occur often (or at all) in the morning. Temps are down near freezing if that makes a difference. It isn't as bad now in the afternoon since I added coolant. So I'm wondering if it is just the water pump starting to go out? I'll check belts one by one to see if there's a problem there this weekend. If I'm off work at a reasonable time today I'll play around with it to see if I can find the exact source of the sound. Again, the sound only seems to occur when the truck is at 2250 RPM or sometimes when shifting (when RPMs fall due to pushing clutch in and letting off the gas)

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