Karmann

I believe I used rustoleum bedliner on mine, it did an ok job, but tends to flake off if much pressure or rocks hit it. I would say that if you found a primer that bonds to the plastic a bit, then you'd have better results. I would suggest taking the liners off for full coverage, and remember to tape off the areas where the pins install, as gumming them up might not bode well.

Any specific trails you'll be running? Oddly enough I'll be in the area that day, but was planning on checking out Tahoe first.

I'm not too far from you, regarding your situation, I'd be surprised if Nissan bought it back, and the amount of body work it sounds like it needs would mean a greater investment than not only what it's worth financially, but would be enough to buy another pathy with fewer miles and less rust. That said however, I understand being attached to it, but to get it to pass smog, and repairing the rust could become a never ending battle. But you may be able to find a way to do the minimum required to get it certified etc, it's not like it has to be a show car to get registered. Again, even that may be an expensive proposition, so it depends how committed you are to this pathfinder, instead of buying another to replace it. Lucky for you, there are a good number of 4x4 Pathfinders available with no rust in CA, and maybe you could see the purchase of the new pathy as turning a page to your new life in CA not to get too deep haha. It should serve you for a number of years, and if you're transferring parts, your original with all those miles will live on in those parts. The car isn't what has the memories, you do . You may have to either wait a while, or cave in on buying a manual 4x4, as those are hen's teeth anywhere, but they do pop up every now and then. The auto isn't terrible.

Post some more details man, from what I can see that looks really clean.

This thread should get you started, plus it has pictures to give you an idea of how it'll turn out. Welcome to NPORA by the way. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/19867-max-tire-size-vs-lift-kit-used-vs-custom-or-oe-wheels/

Ok well I just completed changing all the sparkplugs, turns out the easiest way to take the coil assembly out is to warm up the motor beforehand, and the expansion seems to make it much much easier. I bought some of the coil pack boots to replace the ones I accidentally broke, and am returning the coil pack I bought to Nissan tomorrow. We'll see how the parts department handles this one. Thanks for the help guys, I was lucky enough I kinda figured it out before causing too much damage.

I'm changing my sparkplugs and doing a basic tuneup today, as well as yesterday, and have run into the issue that as I remove the some of the stock coil packs, I end up breaking them into three pieces: the head, the center tunnel with spring, and the bottom boot. In the process I've destroyed two of the sealing rings, and since it seems I can't find the rings individually (if someone knows where to buy these, please link it up), I've ended up having to replace the entire coil packs. Not trusting aftermarkets to the issue, it's been $135 per coil pack from Nissan, I'd rather not blow that much on the remaining two. Anyway, is there a technique or procedure any of you know to get the coils to come off easier? Wiggling them seems to make them pull apart sooner.

Rebelord, my car ends up on the lawn every street sweeping day, the neighbors hate it.

Ironman makes nice stuff for sure, I put them on the same level as OME, I just wish they were in the states still.

The OME MD springs are tuned completely differently from the ACs, different spring rate, different lift, everything. The OMEs have a more controlled ride than stock, meaning there's not as much excess body motion up/down but they actually absorb impacts a lot better, meaning on the highway I think it actually has a smoother ride than stock. Offroad there's no comparison, the OMEs outpace the stockers with ease. From what I can tell the ACs are more tuned to get that 2" of lift out of the box, but at the expense of compliance, and have that top out issue. Having ridden in an AC equipped truck, I'll definitely keep my OMEs. Not a big AC fan. The trim packers seem to be 5/8" leveling pucks. I think you're better off just going for OME MD or HD springs (the HDs don't need the leveler) and just putting on a Fluery's 1" block up front. That's what I did, as I said.

Forget the trim packer, get some MD OME front springs from ruggedrocks and a 1" spacer from Fleurys. Smoothest ride by far, that's what I have. Word is the HD springs don't need a spacer to be level.

Karmann

The factory design is split, so as above just take the mounting bracket off, lube it up and slide off the stock ones, the new ones should line up. Make sure to keep the indents lined up and you're good to go.

Yeah, I would give an inordinate amount of money if they made struts for lifted R50s. The KYBs are ok at best, I mean come on, there must be something better than freakin' twin tubes!

That's for sure, mine just didn't happen to contain Bilstein parts numbers. Doesn't help that Bilstein themselves don't really realize they make shocks bigger than 4600s that fit pathfinders.

Thanks a ton! I searched around but didn't quite find those links haha. I'm buying the 5100s on amazon as we speak, free 2-day shipping with prime.

I was wondering if those of you with the 5100s and a 2" lift would happen to know the Bilstein part number for the extended length shocks? I asked 4x4parts and they "do not give out part numbers." I would prefer not to order from them anyway. Thanks!

I would try to get under the car to figure out where exactly it's coming from, try to trace the path of the drip. If it does happen to be an oil cooler (round thing with ribs on the passenger side of the motor above the PS rack, to the left of the oil filter but towards the bottom of the block), you're lucky because that's a very easy and simple fix, I just did it on mine.

Not quite, it's in the mountain range between Trabuco Hills and Corona. So it takes you up to the mountain range most of Orange County sees, where a fire lookout once was, and where most of the radio and cell phone towers sit. Really nice drive actually, though they close the road every time it rains.

I may hit Main Divide if I get a chance sometime soon, but Gorman is a bit of a stretch for me, my work/school week is looking hectic.

You know, I see so many crappy dipped cars here, it makes me forget how well it can come out with some patience and proper technique. Your pathy looks great, and you did it for all the right reasons- with faded paint/failing clearcoat you had nothing to lose. Looks like the lift was a success, and keep up the modding!

All good info on here, otherwise I've seen some really well-written threads on ExPo taking care of the issue on vans, Land Cruisers and the like going on long expeditions. Being in the Sun Belt you should have no problem with the energy, fabbing up a small mount and aiming system should be no problem. GoalZero makes some handy chargers and kits for iphones and the like, but it sounds like you want something a bit more powerful. Still might be worth checking out.

Looks really nice, that stock flex isn't bad at all actually, you'd be surprised how far you can get at stock height. I really dig the rims, keep up the clean mods.

My buddies and I watch it, sadly by the time I got the text to turn on Daytona today, it was already over. I'm not up on all the details, but I definitely enjoy it.

It's in perfect condition because it's never seen a dirty trail before! That's the Precise secret!