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RustFlames

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RustFlames last won the day on November 17 2023

RustFlames had the most liked content!

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About RustFlames

  • Birthday 01/08/1986

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1995 Black XE Manual Transmission 290,000 KM
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Serious Off Road Enthusiast
  • Model
    XE
  • Year
    1995

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    chris_gt5@hotmail.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Drayton Valley, Alberta, Canada
  • Country
    Canada
  • Interests
    I enjoy spending time outdoors, raising my family and repairing and upgrading my pathy whenever I get the chance!

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RustFlames's Achievements

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Reputation

  1. finally got around to restoring my front wheels, smoothed out all the pitting and welds on the backsides. Still got to pull off my passenger side spindle and clean up so it looks like the drivers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. I went crazy on the blue underneath, but i’ve always stuck to making everything black on the body.that was until I got to building my recovery system ( still don’t have an aftermarket grill or a winch) I scored an old pulley made by tiayo. And did some goldplating, all the hardware on the jack and tow hooks. there’s a ceramic clearcoat over the gold to protect it. Can’t wait to mount it all, going to keep the pulley next to the tire jack in the back trunk Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Got my transfer case back from the rebuilder. I tried to reassemble myself and realized it’s sometimes better to take it to someone with experience. It’s actually originally from an 89 datsun but is compatible with my 95. I just need a 5 speed manual transmission so I’ve been searching the salvage yards. The first gens are getting scarce around here though Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Not exactly to my Pathy, but for my Pathy. Always wanted to mount a Highlift Jack horizontally along my tire carrier. Found a siezed up one hiding in the rafters and decided to clean it up, it’s not finnished but I wanted to show where i’m at with its first first accessory. If anyone has a suggestion for mounting on that 2” bar, pipe in! I’m thinking of just fabricating my own. damn i wish i had a cnc machine Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. The revised manifold stud Nissan part number is 14065-V5004 If your patient as hell and say a little prayer, hit it with several sessions of penetrating oil, wire brush it between so the oil can really get in there, when you manage to crack the studs spin them back tight and gradually you will be able to spin more threads out, you get too rammy and the will snap, if the nut spins off and the stud is stuck in the headers put 2 nuts in and torque then together. good luck Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I redid my inner and outter bearings on mine years ago and ended up cross threading the threaded washer behind the hub on the spindle. the threads have cutouts on 2 sides where the other brass and nickel plated washers seat, I pulled one out of a junkyard and ceramic coated all the hardware, and powdercoated the rest. One thing i suggest is to note the orientation of the spacers, torque your spindle nut to spec, on the back of the knuckle theres thread holes you can shoot penetrating lube into to help with dissasembly. Another thing I haven’t seen mention it’s the needle bearing at the back of the knuckle, Im not sure what tool you can use to remove it without destroying it, but installing it would be easy, if the bearings aren’t pitted or oblong I would just leave it. it centrilizes your Cv axle when 4wd is engaged In your hub. Slap some grease in there and send it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Sanded down my crankshaft journals from 600-3000k then gave a metal polish, ceramic coated the paddles. Once I get some bearings. I’ll put the oil shedding ceramic on them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. I’ve always wondered if someone has ever tried putting a heim joint on that twisty dog bone, then out of plane twisting, bump steer damage is kept to a minimum, as long as it doesn’t cause any clearance issues Im going to attempt to build one this year. The shipping for a grassroots is as much as the part. those ball joints were pressed in, I was surprised to see some sort of teflon coating inside where it seats, Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Sanded down my intake and gave it a polish, I didn’t get it perfect by any means but i’m happy enough with it. I spent extra time around all the lettering. If anyone has tips on to to best smooth out alluminum in the tightest of crevices im all ears, did it mostly by hand with plastic scrapers with varying grits of sandpaper, finnished with a white emery buff Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Haha well I tore the engine apart 2 years ago, and carefully catalogued every bolt and part. I should just make a build thread when I finally have it running, without Npora I would never had made it this far. I’m getting close! just have to finnish the upper plenum. I painted it years ago but I wanted to get at the vacuum manifold underneath it. I will be stripping it and redoing it. Just finnished the fuel railing Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Applied a oil shedding coating to the inside of the block, I blended out casting splatter and ejection marks. Eliminated any high spots. Just need some new bearings now. I’ve read that guys using chromoly piston rings required a 600grit fine hone. I tried giving them a 45 degree scratch deglazing with stones but wasn’t convinced I achieved a true cross hatch.
  12. Finally finnished coating the cylinder heads, 3 types of ceramic coatings on them, transfer grey on the externals, sheds heat 40% better than bare metal, piston coat which deflects heat substantially rated up to 2000 farenheit was applied to combustion chambers and exhaust ports,micro slick dry lubricant ceramic was applied to the head valley for oil drainage, also lowers the parasitic losss.prevent carbon buildup, still have to do the runners in transfer grey, the heads were also ported. Did inside the oil pan and oil pickup tube. Was thinking about doing a slight polish on the runners, Will be putting the transfer grey on outside. May even coat the bottom inside of the block in the microslick if I get motivated enough. Cleaning these parts can take a phenomenal amount of time. So these coatings are properly applied. Degreasing , outgassing, sandblasting. When this VG30e is built it should run smooth Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Got the T case cleaned up, it splits into 3 pieces,Powdercoated in Peeka Blue, Ceramic coated the hardware in armor black, Im doing something a little different with the skid plate it’s not finnished yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Here are some brackets that bolt to the block, one houses the starter, another mounts to the alternator, the 2 pieces on top of the engine mounts, blended out all the nasty spots, sandblasted and Powdercoated, the hardware has been stripped of whatever nickel plating was left and a ceramic coating applied. Also did the transmission support and some pulleys oh and a power steering rod. You know me by now guys paint it blue and call it new! The blending of welds and casting splatter on those cast metal pieces was painful, hard work pays off!
  15. Anyone from around Red Deer? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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