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RustFlames

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RustFlames last won the day on September 12

RustFlames had the most liked content!

About RustFlames

  • Birthday 01/08/1986

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    chris_gt5@hotmail.com

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1995 Black XE Manual Transmission 290,000 KM
  • Place of Residence
    30km west of Drayton Valley
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Serious Off Road Enthusiast
  • Model
    XE
  • Year
    1995

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Drayton Valley, Alberta, Canada
  • Country
    Canada
  • Interests
    I enjoy spending time outdoors, raising my family and repairing and upgrading my pathy whenever I get the chance!

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RustFlames's Achievements

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Reputation

  1. Hell yes I did the outer drums Raingoat, I put 3 little glow in the dark skulls in there but you can hardly see them through the windows of the rim, do not confuse powdercoat with paint, it’s a polyester hybrid resin I use, 10x the hardness of paint and higher temperature and chemical resistance, no paint would last with brake fluid and dust continuously being flung at it, ( I’ve tried high temp caliper paint before, last a year at best) So what your seeing is the original pistons that have been coated on the tops with a ceramic paint literally called piston coat(Cerakote V-136) reflects the temps back into the combustion chamber good up 2000 fahrenheit prevents heat soak through the connecting rods and crank increasing efficiency. The skirts are coated with Cerakote P-109 Microslick a dry lubricant ceramic, it’s about 1mm thick will not interfere with tolerances and it has many advantages as well. these coating can actually be applied to combustion chambers,crank, valve faces, valve springs, exhaust ports and a few other places. This engine is going to be straight fire one day, ( Whenever I get to reassembling it haha) Honestly I should just do a build page. Been building this Pathfinder for 12 years now. These coatings have real world results and I will get it on a dyno to prove it eventually Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Saracha Mayo, that stuff is the bomb! The front end in your Pathfinder and paint in general is immaculate btw! Looks like it rolled right out of the factory Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Made the front diff plate a little more badass looking, tried to make chrome flames coming out of the bolt holes but I made the stencils a bit too small. All powdercoat Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. haha yeah i first did it with the inside of the rim and thought what the hell. The glow in the dark powder is called glowbee clear, I also gold plated the air bleed off screw and ceramic coated the inside of the pistons and the bracket clips for the brake shoes a matte black. At the same time I did the cylinder locks as this was one of the last things on the exterior that wasn’t murdered out yet. The lock on the back hatch still needs to be done, but looks like a pain in the ass to remove. Eventually Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. This looks like a killer mod! How much in the way is the windshield washer resorvoir. I was thinking cut the resovoir in half shave off a few centimetres and plastic weld it back together to make it clear the strut and bracket. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Well pulled some calipers of out the junkyard over the weekend, When I made the template I should of put a slight curvature on the lettering in hindsight. I’m overall pretty happy with them Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Polished the inside of my exhaust tip, and gold plated, applied a high temp cermic coating to the exterior matte black, Once I order a new exhaust I will coat all the pipes, Next I will be attempting to do a high temp piston coating on the faces and a micro slick dry lube coating for the skirts, this apparently has some real horsepower gains by keeping the heat soak from going into the crank and keeping the heat in the combustion chamber (up to 40%) I’m going to try it on my old chainsaw first, need a bit more practise first on the iwata lph-80 spray gun Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Polished the inside of my exhaust tip, and gold plated, applied a high temp cermic coating to the exterior matte black, Once I order a new exhaust I will coat all the pipes, Next I will be attempting to do a high temp piston coating on the faces and a micro slick dry lube coating for the skirts, this apparently has some real horsepower gains by keeping the heat soak from going into the crank and keeping the heat in the combustion chamber (up to 40%) I’m going to try it on my old chainsaw first, need a bit more practise first on the iwata lph-80 spray gun Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Anyone from around Red Deer? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Hahah yes guys I mangled it. 8 flathead screwdrivers wedged in there didn’t do it any justice. I suggest if you gentlemen are to attempt this disassembly is to knock the pulley itself with a block of wood so that both the clutch plate and pulley come off together, saving you from warpage. i was going to throw it in a vice and try to squeeze it more flat, i’m just procrastinating, Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Yes it’s literally a bushing pressed into a outer race, apologies I didn’t not get the part number off it, I just cleaned it off and reinserted it, I will note though when you remove the clutch from the housing there are 3 shims inside the neck to be aware of I almost dropped them on the floor without noticing. take note of how the compressor sits in those metal gaskets as well before you pull it out, Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I tore apart most of the housing while waiting for the new bearing to arrive anyone that has seen any of my posts knows I have to make it blue lol The squealing bearing needed replacing I ordered a NSK 35BD219 AC Compressor Clutch Bearing I didn’t feel any desire to dismantle the compressor itself. I am curious to see it’s insides but not enough to worry about it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I completely agree with adamzan, I did mine without a press just a ball peen hammer and if you give the inside of the ears where the bearing cap seats a light emery cloth scrub the new parts will go in easy, it took me a little while how to figure out how to completely dismantle the front driveshaft to clean all the old grease out of the slip yoke, i only needed to do that for the powdercoating since i had it all apart I polished the shaft with the splines and put in new grease and it slides a lot smoother. good luck and don’t drop the roller bearings on the floor when reinstalling Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. That’s what my girlfriend said about this steering collum bracket with a viking compass and nordic protection runes that gets covered by the dash. Winter in Canada is cold what else to do but powdercoat every thing in sight? For the record I had a leak in an old windshield and that piece must of had water dripping on it awhile because it was encased in rust Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. i had the pry tools in the right position just kept going around until it slipped out, Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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