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RustFlames

Members
  • Content Count

    30
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

RustFlames last won the day on February 8

RustFlames had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

22 Excellent

About RustFlames

  • Rank
    NPORA Newbie
  • Birthday 01/08/1986

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    chris_gt5@hotmail.com

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1995 Black XE Manual Transmission 290,000 KM
  • Place of Residence
    30km west of Drayton Valley
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Serious Off Road Enthusiast
  • Model
    XE
  • Year
    1995

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Drayton Valley, Alberta, Canada
  • Country
    Canada
  • Interests
    I enjoy spending time outdoors, raising my family and repairing and upgrading my pathy whenever I get the chance!

Recent Profile Visitors

2,281 profile views
  1. finally got the axle coated, I marred up the flange when I was separating the diff, polished it up with some memory cloth still waiting to have the new bearings and races installed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Best option is to get it bead blasted and have it powdercoated, I went with a semi gloss sandtex black powder, It’s similar to rock guard with texture in it, last longer and look better than spray can paint Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. I got pacesetters last year, yes they are half the price of doug thorleys not being ceramic coated however there are a couple things you can do to mitigate the rusting and failure of those beautiful pipes, there’s a high heat paint called Por-20 that you can brush on , and eastwood makes a product that’s specifically for coating the inside pipes and other exhaust pieces like your y-pipe. Comes in a spray can with a long hose that’s perforated at the end so you get get coverage. I went a couple steps further with my pacesetters and gave them exhaust wrap and then sprayed on a high temp silicone spray to further protect the wrap, wrapping your headers will void the warranty but I think with the Por-20 on first you should get more longitivity. When they come shipped they are sprayed with a cheap thin layer of black gloss paint that immediately burns off as soon as you install them. Cut all that crap heat shielding out of there, I used a dremel and just grinded off the bolt heads. Take your time loosening those undersized 8mm exhaust studs. Spray them down with weasel piss every day for a few days before attempting to wrench them out, I have never had any fun drilling and tapping out busted exhaust studs. A good method its to crack them tighten it back up wrench it some more tighten back up taking small bites before spinning the stud all the way out. Yes it’s tedious but trust me the alternative is much more time consuming I don’t have my motor rebuilt yet however it’s been claimed headers will give you a 10% hp improvement being one of the cheapest upgrades you can do, Very Clean looking Pathfinder btw, somehow the paint has stood the test of time, I have the pin striping on mine as well I think it compliments the aggressive wheel well design of the body, I’m sorry if I hijacked your wheel thread lol, if it’s any consolation I have a cheap chrome exhaust tip on mine and it isn’t classy lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Was the little liscence plate bracket caked in rust? I just pulled my bumper all apart and most of the screws and bolts twisted off, I have to replace 3/4 of them, be nice to see how yours turned out. I had to do some bondo as well, along where the caps are bolted on Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Replaced the u-joints in my rear driveshaft, and of course I powdercoated while I had it out, taping off the holes where the caps sit was tricky to say the least but took my time and It came out beautiful, the rust behind the yoke the enters the transmission was pretty bad and hard to reach in the sandblast cabinet, I used the old caps to pound in the new ones, RIP 5/8” socket( used it to pound out the old caps) The part numbers, got from napa for the front driveshaft are UJ393 The the rear driveshaft is UJ446 The color is called peeka blue Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Powdercoated my brake lines, didn’t have a flare wrench, used vice grips to crack them then used a 10mm to finnish them off, the one on the passenger side of the frame threaded into that strange like brass spacer, ( possibly a check valve) needed to be vice wrenched out the whole way, I believe Ie coated every piece of fastener in the engine bay area now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Well I’m Just waiting on getting my Lsd back with new bearing and races, I managed to get everything apart except for removing the race from the pinion gear. Also waiting on getting back my rear axle from the bead blasters. I’ve had no luck from the dealerships or online finding a new set of backing plates. Hate to put all new hardware together just to slap it on some swiss cheese mounts. Pathfinders in the pick n pull yards are usually more rotted out than what I already have. Local stealership tells me it’s a discontinued item, keeping the dust out of my drum brakes is all I want, anyone ever have any luck finding a suitable replacement? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Alternator was caked with dirt and dust, spent a good deal of time just cleaning the innards out, I have tried to be as methodical as possible with this rebuild as it is my first. Can hardly wait to hear this baby purr hah almost lost my sanity powder coating all the hardware, ziploc bag after ziploc bag of bolts. I’m seeing the end finally. I pulled the engine nearly a year ago
  10. X2 on the small metal clips, When they pop out they like to go flying, i held a magnet next to it to avoid the crawl of shame all over the garage looking for them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. The color is called peeka blue, It’s a translucent powder so I sprayed it with super chrome first, On the contrary I can’t wait to take it off-road, the coating is very durable, I’ve been doing literally every bracket screw bolt washer I can remove, It was Npora that inspired me to start this restoration. Hoping to win pathy of the year once she’s roadworthy haha Hope you guys can appreaciate the progress so far. I probally will spend another year on it, I want to powdercoat the rear axle. the only blue you should be able to see is when it’s rolled over or when the hoods open. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Alternator and starter are basically the only things I have to to do before reassembly of the engine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Took out as much casting Slag as I could with some 80 and 120 grit sandpaper rolls and then painstakinly hand blended the combustion chambers and exhaust ports to a mirror shine trying to capitalize on my headers Guess the only thing left is a 3 angle valve job, and some S1 jim wolf cams. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Polished my combustion chambers up to 3000 grit it’s not perfect but a hell of a lot better than they were when I pulled them, I know it won’t produce any real noticeable gains but since this Vg30e rebuild is going on a year now ( due to all the powdercoating) I will start a rebuild thread one of these days, porter out all the casting slag out of the intakes and plan to do a little polishing on the exhaust side. truly a labour of love. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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