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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1998 Chilkoot, black-on-black, Manual 5-speed
  • Place of Residence
    Sunshine Coast, BC
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
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  • Location
    Sunshine Coast, BC
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  • Interests
    Fly-fishing, hunting, general outdoors, woodworking, metalworking, electronics

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  1. I'm (gratefully) semi-retired now and so I get to indulge in my various hobbies.. well, you know, when the wife allows it LOL.  Seriously though, many of you are WAY more into off-road as a *thing in and of itself* and while I'd definitely be into that, I already have too many hobbies. So for me, off-road means being able to get to a high country lake or steam that's off the beaten path to take in some fly-fishing or hunting without having to watch out for 10 other guys I don't know. Oh sure, sometimes I go up a long logging road just for the hell of it and I've been on some pretty hairy roads and had a great time. But really for me, while I have deep respect for you guys with the snorkels and huge lifts (and I'll ride with ya anytime!) - it's not something I'm kitted out for.


    Also, I'm never sure how to answer profile questions that relate to things like proficiency. When/where possible I've been doing much of the maintenance on my cars and trucks since I was a kid. Still, I'm not equipped to do, for example, a clutch job on my Pathy and I respect those that have invested the money and time to acquire the skills and equipment to do those things and I'll pay anyone fair to do them for me.  If it doesn't require an engine hoist or a walk-under lift, I'm probably gonna be ok doing it BUT I recently tried to change all the plugs on my rig and holy WTH that turned into a nightmare. Even changing the plugs on my 1984 BMW 325i back in the day was a cakewalk in comparison to the '98 Pathy. I wound up being unable to do it because the amount of force I was applying to the plugs was insane and I was worried about actually shearing them.  I eventually had to pay a ton to a mechanic to come up and do it for me.  Lesson learned.


  2. Hey guys, Hope everyone's doing good in these trying times. I just got a 1491 error on my 98 Pathy Chilkoot (manual xmission). I understand this error in principle - i.e. most likely the Vacuum Cut valve bypass valve is either toast or stuck open. Or, it could be a hose/connection blowout/break. I realize I need to get this fixed but I live in a rural area and sometimes getting parts and help if I need it takes some time. WHAT are the consequences of running the Pathy in this state (prior to fixing this issue)? I have no idea how "serious" this is as this is really beyond my knowledge. Also, I don't really know where this valve is located; do I need to get at it from underneath or can it be accessed from the top? I ask because it's well, you know, bloody cold and wet here and I have no immediate inside space to fix it. Any help is much appreciated. -Arne P.S Just noticed my profile still says "Vancouver". While I still spend time there, I now live in a rural part of the Sunshine Coast (North of Vancouver) and I'll edit my profile shortly.
  3. Thanks Guys! So, yes, I made a bad assumption that the window motor used ground plus an internal polarity reverser (so, rather than invert the wires, you apply +12 to one pin for up, and another for down). That's not true and they just switch the polatiry in the power window regulator as Slartibartfast and Citron said. SO, I got the window up yay! Still, now on to figuring out the issue. Not the switches to either fuse (if they are separate for each motor which I doubt), wire break or the regulator. I'll let you know. Time to hit the service manual... -Arne
  4. Hi guys, 1998 Pathy Chilkoot Edition, 3.3V6 with manual tranny. Pretty much stock except for upgraded after-market off-road shocks, springs, boots, etc. Was hoping to lift it but have been told that's either not possible or a bad idea, or insanely expensive. I live near Vancouver, BC. I'm really hoping someone here knows something about my issue and can weigh in. So, my front passenger side power window has stopped working and of course this happened while the window was fully down! It's been a little intermittent over the last few months and yeah, I was negligent and didn't lube the works but here I am. It's not the switches because both (master and passenger) showed the intermitency. I pulled the door panel off, found what I'm pretty sure is the primary motor connector and applied -12V to the motor housing and +12V to both (from an external 12V SLA battery) spade lugs in the connector in turn and got nothing. I am going to do that test again from a heavy-duty 12V instead of the SLA just in case but I'm pretty sure the 8AH SLA should be able to drive that motor. So... My first questions is if anyone has any thoughts on wether or not I've properly tested the motor itself with the above technique. Thoughts? Second is that I cannot figure out how the heck you get the motor out and replace it. The motor is behind the large inside metal panel and I can't see any way to access it; it looks like that panel is actually welded in place but... can that be true? I'm probably missing something... anyone know how to do this? Third, if I figure out how to get at the motor to replace it, I'd welcome any thoughts on the best way to get a new one. Or a refurb etc. Why, oh why aren't manufacturers required to put a manual (hand) crank bypass on power windows?! This makes me wary of ever getting a car with power-only windows again LOL. For that matter, is there any way to at least get the window up for now and replace the motor later? That would be so helpful as I live in a rainforest and taping clear plastic over the open window is pretty dangerous and probably illegal here. Thanks in advance guys, you've always been a great help in the past and your sage advice is very much appreciated. -Arne
  5. Thanks for all the input; you've confirmed what I thought and what the shop manual says. Man, you'd think a tire tech should have known that LOL. One other question though, Rebelord, what did you mean by "Biggest thing is don't let it run the Panhard bar." (pardon my ignorance - not sure what a panhard bar is...)
  6. Hi Guys, I just had a set of new General Grabber AT2's put on my '98 pathy and had the shop mount the best full-sized tire on the spare wheel... then they told me that the spare tire holder (under the back bumper) cannot accomodate the P265/70R15 110S Wrangler tire! Apparently the spare that was mounted under there was very worn and is a smaller size tire but on the same wheel size. Seems very odd to me that the tire holder would not accomodate the full-size tire. So... does anyone know if that's correct or if there's a way to do it?
  7. Hey B, Thanks for the responses guys. I can't find anything related to tires in the product reviews forum... there are only a few posts there with no actual reviews... Did something happen to that forum or am I missing something? Anyway, thanks for the advice and it does look like the Grabbers are very similar to the Wrangler AT's. Couldn't find the Kelly's here. The BFG's are certainly excellent but I'm leaning towards the Grabbers as they rate at 96,000 KM vs 80,000 for the BGS's. Plus (he says sheepishly) those Grabbers look pretty damn boss :-)
  8. Hi guys and Happy New Year! Need to replace the tires on my '98 Chilkoot; the tires on it now are Wrangler A/T 265 / 70R15 and they're getting pretty low. I can't seen to find the Wranglers in this size around here but Canadian Tire has the following available: BFGoodrich Rugged Terrain T/A Cooper Discoverer A/T3 General Tire Grabber A/T2 Other than general driving (and snow) my off-road requirements are pretty normal; I'm not driving in extreme conditions. Any thoughts on which of these is optimal? I'm leaning towards the Grabber from GT but before I commit I thought I'd check here and see what you knowlegeable people had to say. thanks, -Arne
  9. Ok! Ordering one from DX.com and crossing fingers. Thanks guys. -Arne
  10. Hey guys, I have searched here for a topic but to no avail. So, I have the service manual for my '99 Chilkoot and between reading that and an hour of on-line research I'm getting very confused about reading ODB-II codes from it. The "service engine soon" light came on a couple of weeks after some major service work (clutch kit, brakes, CV boots, shocks, muffler and O2 sensor) the first time I took it out on the highway (after a couple of hours of highway driving). Before I take it to the mechanic, I'd kinda like to know what the DTC is; so... I found this link: http://nissanhelp.com/diy/common/nissan_engine_codes_read_2.php which describes a procedure to read the DTC without an ODB-II reader but I can't tell if that's applicable to my '99... anyone know? I'm looking at maybe getting an inexpensive DTC reader from DX.com (link: http://www.dx.com/p/2012-newly-professional-3-0-lcd-auto-code-reader-vgate-scantool-maxiscan-vs890-153711#.U9g69bHHi_I ) but I'm reading confusing things about vehicle applicability. And here I thought ODB-II was a "standard"! Any thoughts on this being able to read the DTC's off the Pathy? I read a post somewhere about some guy with a '98 VE unable to read DTC's from the ODB port and his mechanic couldn't either and said he HAD to use the CONSULT port. Thoughts? As always, thanks in advance! -Arne
  11. So yeah, it was the pilot bearing... and the clutch plate was damn-near down the bolts! And, alas, it turned out there were quite a few other problems: brakes were near gone, 2 CV boots had to be replaced and the others were in sad shape (so had those done too), muffler basically came apart when they dropped it so that too (kinda thought that it was cracked anyway), shocks were spongy so replaced those, and a few minor things. All told, repairs cost more than the Pathy did when I bought it :-( You guys would do most of that yourself of course but I live in an apartment and really have no access to a shop where I could do that kind of work. Brakes and the muffler I could have done with some hassle but I really wouldn't have saved that much cash really (the mechanic has a great rep and his parts charges were not out of line with buying myself). So, I now have a very expensive '99 Pathy but hey, I had it out up a pretty crappy logging road up to Jones Lake BC on the weekend and it performed really very well. Now I'm looking into getting it lifted, tow-hitch, bush-bars etc. I'll post some questions about those things too after doing some research. Thanks for the input guys, -Arne
  12. No, the clutch does not sqeak - at least not that I can hear. When the intermittent noise starts, it's quite loud and sounds like a cross between rubbing and grinding.
  13. *Sigh*. So after only having my '99 Chilkoot manual (165000 miles/266000KM) for a few weeks, I'm hearing what I think is pilot or throwout bearing noise. I'm hearing a grinding/rubbing noise at low revs particularly with clutch pedal IN shifting from 1st to 2nd. It typically starts when I release the clutch after shifting to 2nd but sometimes just starts while driving in 2nd. Pumping the clutch almost always makes it stop but on occaision I have to pump the clutch more than once. It also happens sometimes in reverse. I've never heard it while shifting from 2nd to 3rd but then she's a noisy beast so I may just not be able to hear it. Questions: 1) Am I right or do you have any thoughts on what this actually is? Assuming I'm correct, 2) How long is it "safe" to drive with this condition? 3) While I can do most small repairs, opening and repairing the tranny is something I have neither the tools nor the shop for so... does anyone have a good guess as to what this will cost to repair? (As I'm in Vancouver, BC, I expect to be paying on the high side anyway). As always, thanks in advance for your advice. -Arne
  14. Hey Guys, I haven't been on year in something like two years as my old '95 packed it in and I only recently got another truck. She's a beauty though: '99 black-on-black Chilkoot manual in really very cherry condition considering her age. She's just over 266,000 KM (about 165,000 miles) and everything's very clean. Now, she's pretty stock but I'll be doing a few things to her over the next few months. So "HI" to all. I'm going to post a few questions in the general forum now. Cheers!
  15. Thanks for all the advice. Yeah, if I still had access to a welder I'd go that route for sure and in that case I wouldn't use clad. I can't just foam the hole cause it's, er, LARGE lol - about 8" in diameter. So I figure, I'll cut the sheet about 1 1/2" all around the hole, pre-drill the rivet holes through sheet and body, spray the foam along the edge, then rivet the sheet on. I've got a pro-quality rivet plier and some solid 3/16" x 1/4" deep rivets so I hope it will last for a while. I'll let you know how it turns out. cheers, -Arne
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