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ORCGuide

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Everything posted by ORCGuide

  1. Replaced rear sway bar links. One of them was broken, So I did them both. . . 4 nuts = 4 hours over two days. . . rust can nibble my fiddly bits. . . But! the clunk is still there! It's weird. When I brake in 2-hi, come to a complete stop, release pressure on the brake pedal the body settles and Clunk! Take foot off of brake, apply throttle and . . . clunk! Doesn't do it in 4-hi or 4-lo, only in 2-hi. Doesn't do it on bumps or around corners. Shocks pass the bounce test and I can't find anything else loose under the truck. It baffles, disconcerts and annoys the ever living (shag) out of me. Help?
  2. How fortuitous . . . Now I'm a parts delivery associate with Keystone automotive. . . and a school bus driver and a white water rafting guide. . .
  3. ORCGuide

    nicknames

    Trucklet. . . the kidlets find it amusing. . . or the Grinder. . .
  4. Replaced the fan clutch for the fourth time. . . in under a year. . .
  5. I hate Cambodian Tire, avoid them as much as possible. But, occasionally they do have better prices on things like ignition coils and power transistors/ignition control modules. Napa and Auto-value are my main source of new parts and maintenance items. . . The local pick a part is way more reasonable that the big auto wrecker in town or the NIssan/Acura specific snobs
  6. The belt is the easy part. . . I was referring to the part where you're laying under the truck supporting the alternator with one hand while using the other hand to reattach the wires one handed. Then lifting the alternator into position (from the bottom) while putting the bolts in from the top??? On my '78 D150 (dodge truck) it was about a 6 minute job if you took your time. This was closer to an hour to remove 5 bolts and one nut??? Whatever, I've got a 5 year warranty on the Alternator, hope I never have to change it again. Now I'm really looking forward to changing the broken manifold studs. . .
  7. Replaced the alternator. holy bloody hell. . . do Nissan Techs have 4 arms?
  8. Wondered why my headlights were so bright. . . until I looked at the voltmeter. . . charging at 16-17 V on the highway??? srsly? what next?
  9. Boosted it with my school bus and cleaned corrosion from the battery terminals. . . I guess she doesn't like to be neglected for a week . . .
  10. Try cleaning the MAF with isopropanol. My truck ran like crap until I did this: Remove the air cleaner: on the drivers side of the throttle body, remove the three screws and wiring harness (pull the metal clip and don't lose it!) from the MAF; clean the wire gently with a Q-tip dipped in 99% iso
  11. Was just chatting with our mechanic at work. He used to work at an import shop in Calgary (and a Chev dealership. . .). His suggestion was a carb spacer and a CAI. I know a CAI won't do anything for me until I replace the wimpy little . . . 1.5" (?) exhaust with a 2" or 2.5" exhaust. . . He also mentioned a piggyback eprom for the ECM. . . I was this close (][) to telling him about Cory and his 35+ MPG Pathfinder. . . Anybody tried a carb spacer under the throttle body?
  12. Booty Swing - Parov Stelar . . . Gives the kids something to think about when I pull up to the lights with booming Electronic Swing emanating from the PhatGrinder. . . The Retrogrouch approves
  13. Added a second tow hook up front. Really, I just wanted the bolts so I can throw a 2" receiver hitch up front.
  14. I used to do science. Now I drive a school bus and spend as much time guiding white water rafts as I can while it lasts.
  15. I searched and did not find a mileage thread for the TBI Pathfinders specifically. Another thread gone horribly off topic got me thinking about mileage, driving habits weather and such. I just finished "fixing" my trucklet and took it on a 360km (~224 miles) road trip; 95% highway ( 100-120 kmh/60-75mph) 5% city.. Burned 45.527L of 87 octane pump regular (12.028 US gallons). This gives me 12.6499 L/km, 18.5941 USmpg or 22.33 UKmpg. I was trying too keep the revs under 2500 but some of the in town shifts were ~3000 and there were a couple of hills where it kicked down into 3rd and brought it up to ~3500. I was driving for economy. . . Trucklet is an '88 SE, VG30i, automatic with stock 235-75-15 all season radials. Odometer test section (gotta love Alberta highways) indicates my truck looses 1 km/100. . . it's out by 1%. Weather ranged from -7C to +2C with no wind (around here that is a rarity and has to be taken into consideration). The tank before was 55.618L for 320.1km. Mostly cold -10 - -15C in 4hi with my foot stuck to the firewall as often as possible. The result? A dismal 13.5 USmpg or 17.375 L/100km. . . What did I do to "fix" it? Replaced the leaking and squealing fan clutch (which required turning an adapter to go between my 8 bladed fan (5 1/2" bolt spacing) and my JY fan clutch (5 1/4" bolt spacing)) and cleaned my Crank Angle Sensor. (again!) Anyone else got any real world numbers?
  16. If he can fit his Pathfinder in a wind tunnel I'm sure hes had it dynoed. . .
  17. I have no idea where you are getting your mileage numbers from. But I suspect your methodology is flawed. Start with a full tank of gas. Zero your trip odometer. Drive. City, highway, to the 7-11 and back home, whatever. . . Fill your tank at some point and divide the number of miles traveled by the number of gallons of gas that it took to refill your tank. That puts you on a level playing field with everyone else here. I'm sure my pathfinder gets close to 40mpg going down a steep hill with a stiff tailwind. Unfortunately its probably closer to 15 MPG going up that same hill. Fuel economy is a long term average. Summer/Winter, City (stop and go)/Highway, elevation, it's all relevant. For example: My wife's Saturn ('99 SW1, fuel injected 1.9L SOHC, autotragic) gets a pretty consistent 35 MPG commuting to work during the summer (combined city and highway). In Winter, it drops to around 30 MPG. Last summer we took a road trip to the wet coast and got 42 MPG. My 1980 Celica GT (2.0 liters of terror, four cylinders of Fury! 5 speed, really tall gears. . .) used to get 20-25 MPG around town depending on the season. On one particularly memorable road trip it managed an astounding 29 MPG on one tank of gas. The astounding part was I ran that section of twisty mountain road at wide open throttle in second and third gear. . . something about peak volumetric efficiency 'er whatever. . .
  18. I would pull that tire off and check the rotor for damage. I once swapped winter tires onto my 720 Datsun in the parking lot at work. A couple of days later it was making a funny noise. So I headed over to my cousin's garage. About a block from my house my left rear tire passed me, bounced over the median, across 2 lanes of traffic, over a green strip, across the service road and ended up on my front lawn. Some guy in a supra turbo ran over my brake drum. The lugnuts were rattling around inside the hub cap. . . Costly mistake. Always torque your lugnuts and retorque after 100-150 km (60-90 miles).
  19. Lucky uh sport fish poop. . . your aircleaner is different from mine. The AB valve (that thing directly in front of the air cleaner with a vacuum hose on the top) is bolted to my lower aircleaner pan. Also, a brace on the aircleaner pan bolts directly to the bosses visible in your third picture on top of the drivers side valve cover. Must be an XE or KKKalifornia thing.
  20. Forget MAF cleaner. . . use 99% isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol) and a couple of Q-tips. Be gentle, if you break the wires you'll be looking for a new MAF.
  21. TBI definitely has a MAF. On my 88 at least. Pull the aircleaner off. I love how that's all it says in the manual. Remove the two wingnuts from the top of the air cleaner. Undo all six clips and remove the top. Pull the filter. Remove the 2 12mm bolts that secure the air cleaner to the drivers side valve cover. Remove the PCV hose from the aircleaner housing (drivers side). Remove the snorkel and Heat riser tube. Undo the clip on the AB valve hose. Remove the funky spacer from the top of the TB. Grab the front of the lower air cleaner housing and pull. Hard. Wiggle it a bit and swear at the nameless engineers in Japan that designed this setup. When you have the AB valve disconnected, reach under the lower air cleaner and disconnect the vacuum hose at 10 o'clock (heat riser, I think) and another at 1 o' clock (easier to pull the hose off of the intake manifold fitting). You should have the whole air cleaner off and the TB exposed. See the black thing on the right (drivers) side of the TB? With the funky connector secured with a wire clip? Held on by 3 screws. Defintely 3 screws. Use a dental pick and a hemostat to remove the clip. Don't lose it or destroy it. I'm not going outside to take pictures. Its almost dark and its -10C Have fun.
  22. On my '88 the switch is right on the gear selector. Says "POWER" in big friendly letters. Power switch off (pushed in), shifts like it would if my grandmother was driving. Power switch on (released, pulled out, whatever), POWER light on the dash comes on and it shifts at redline. It also will not shift into overdrive and the torque converter will not lock up. Oddly, and its probably just the way it is. . .if I stomp the gas, back off and then mat it again it drops into power mode until I back off the throttle. Handy for jack rabbit starts in traffic Who doesn't love power mode?
  23. We got about 8" of snow in the past 24 hours. I felt bad for people not driving Pathfinders
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