ferrariowner123

Im sure out of all the brown crusty options of rust available, the maple kind is most preferred. But my OCD will not tolerate it, it drives me nuts! lol -Kyle

Ah man, another platinum that's going to make me want to upgrade....lol Nice rig. Do you plan on keeping the grill guard? If not, i would like to buy it off you, so long as its not full of Canadian rust. -Kyle

V8 obviously. Lol -Kyle

Can I have a 15.75 inch lift?

Sorry, must have read that too fast. I was assuming he was lifted. My bad, again. -Kyle

The geometry is thrown off with the lift. A camber kit will be a needed item to maintain an even contact patch while driving on the road. Just get an alignment, Mark the bolt with a silver sharpie or like, so you can remember where they are without having to pay just to have those bolts adjusted. That way, should they wiggle loose or you need to remove the struts for any reason you can retain your alignment. -Kyle

Really hoping you got an ECU and wiring harness with the VQ... Please update your progress on the VQ swap, I'm super curious to see how that goes. -Kyle

Their website doesn't show much, but I'm sure they still have the designs lying around if your serious. -Kyle

Here is what I found, nothing pertaining to the pathfinder directly but I can't imagine its too different from the pathfinder since the xterra is fairly similar. http://www.justanswer.com/nissan/4sfo1-nissan-datsun-fuel-temp-sensor-located-a.html And I found this image but it was in regard to a 96 d21, again can't imagine its too different. Hope that helps, and I learned something new today! -Kyle

Hmmm. This is on the VG right? I have done my knock sensor before and I don't recall anything being on the fuel rails. To be honest I have no idea how what an ECU could do with that information, pressure yes, but temp is questionable. So if this does exist I would have to guess it's in the tank. I'll do some digging and see what I find. -Kyle

After changing a many of my bushings and rod ends, i have been told its the steering rack. I think i mentioned it to you CDN_S4 but i figured id mention it in this thread too as it apparently can go bad... My noise has since subsided and i'm not really worried about it, but when i get the extra funds, ill be swapping my original rack out. -Kyle

https://tacticalarmorgroup.com/TAG-Bumper-Store/Wincher-Nissan-Pathfinder-1996-1999 Heres another. But if you just want a stock one, hit up a local junkyard. Row52.com should be a good place to start. -Kyle

My whole rear section rusted off at the flange between the resonator section and the muffler. After some suggestions on here, i decided to hack a straight cut as close to the muffler as i could. It sounds much nicer at idle, and doesn't drone much at all. But yeah, try and keep the exhaust as low to the ground as you can, and not pointing into towards the floor, as others have said. -Kyle

Yup, exactly like that. They widest sides of the connector you should have look different on each. Just find the one with the large black piece (that you can see from my picture) and match what i have shown. The connector is designed to only fit in one way, happily. -Kyle

Thanks man! I really dont like the wiring diagrams Nissan uses, sure they work, but MAN are the difficult to figure out! Everything is broken up in to sections, and never just shows, "the door wiring" Its always by system, which again, i GET WHY they do it that way. but was a huge pain when it came time to sit down and build my door harness's, i had 3 different parts of the diagrams from both 96 and 2001 so i could get as much info as i could without having to probe each wire! Thats why i love the wiring harness for my Z, its just one GIGANTIC PDF that shows EVERYTHING! That being said, the Z doesn't really have any repeating wire colors, i know for a fact that depending on what system you are in for the pathy, all colors are fair game, thats why there are like 6 different green wires in the door harness alone! lol Anyway, i'm ranting, glad we got this figured out. But hawairish, do you not have auto up and down windows? -Kyle

HANDS DOWN, the best mod i have ever purchased for my car! BUT, get OEM nissan ones! ALL OTHER ARE NO COMPETITION! They are thick, durable, and dont squeak! I think you can still get the grey ones from a few dealers, but im not sure. -Kyle

Well you're in luck!!! I just re did my windows on mu 96 to use the Auto up and down features of the 01+ models. I built custom harness's and almost had those diagrams memorized! lol But i do, have about 5-6 harness's next to me as well, so lets see what i have... **starts to rummage through the harness's** and what do you know! I have the same one you just pictured!!! Here we go! You were close on your wiring, but black is ground, white/red is power (like a supplementary power, its weird, and different from the 96's), the blue wires is power signal from the drivers switch, and the brown, i cant quite remember, i think its power lock control? IDK, but there you go! Gotta ask though, why did you remove the white connector in the first place? Hope this helps! -Kyle

Going back to the rear Accessory power outlet for just a second, is that a Deutsch connector? If so, what crimper are you using? How do you like it? The swing away: awesome work! I can only imagine to nerve wracking feeling of drilling into perfectly good sheet metal. So glad hawairish did his write up, how many people have now retrofitted swing away's because of him!? Gotta ask though, why the switch from the killer custom one you had? Also, do you have any intentions of doing the angled wheel mount like you did on the other mount? If you do, please make one for me too! Because i have wanted to angle the wheel for SO long! LASTLY How tight are those tail light guards? It looks REALLY tight from the pictures and doesn't look like they will fit if you have the stock hinge covers like i do? I Really want a pair of taillight guards , but only if they fit! (obviously ) All in all, nice work dude, thanks for taking pics along the way! -Kyle

^^ Ah man, now your gonna make me take a pic every-time i see one!! GREAT I feel like i use to see early models all the time, but more often than not, im seeing late models. Probably because they are getting cheap enough to make them into "beaters". -Kyle

Nice install! I plan on doing something similar eventually, but I think I'll stick with the factory location just to the right of the storage door. Keep up the mods, very enjoyable to see all the stuff you come up with. -Kyle

He's been pretty hard to get a hold of from my last experience having to call 4 times before I was able to get rob. I think of I need parts I'll still use McKinney, but maybe have one of the other parts guys fill out my order. With that said though, I do miss rob and seeing the "behind the counter" thread bumped got me all kinds of excited. -Kyle

Check out, Poca (Pathfinder owners club of Australia) much higher density of Aussies. Is it too expensive to have something shipped from the states? If it's a limited shipping thing, I'd be happy to send something as a private individual? -Kyle

Let me pose a simple fix assuming I have a full gasp on this. My rear resonator fell off sometime ago and I eventually took it off the truck all together and after posting about it, a few kind fellows on here suggested I hack what was left of the rear section that was running down the mid muffler, to prevent exhaust potentially making its way into the cabin. So this cut was right about where the rear muffler and it points right at the rear axle. From what it sounds like, you might be able to do that and not have to mod the exhaust so much. If you find my build thread "college kids DD" thread, you should find some pics of what I'm talking about. -Kyle

Nevermind, looks like it does it by itself? Idk but it works in auto and manual and I'm not questioning why... Lol -Kyle

Hey guys. So i'm working on the retrofitting these auto up and down power windows into my 96, spent well over 15 hours getting to this point, and probably have another 3-5 to go. But i'm already seeing an issue with one of my motors. (bought these off a junkyard 01 i should point out) I went to investigate how to program the auto features and the FSM says to push a button that's on the motor itself, well the passenger side has a button but its hidden behind the inner sheet metal of the door. No big deal ill drill a hole to have access to said button and i figured ill do them both when i get done installing and wiring up the drivers side. This is where i found a hitch. After bolting in the drivers side i noticed there isn't a button on the drivers side motor. There is just a hole in the same spot where the passenger side reset switch is. And it looks like it peers into the motor itself (totally guessing here). I dont think the motors was replaced with a non auto one (before i pulled it off the junk car), because all of the wiring is present it looks exactly the same as the passenger aside from the missing button. Can anyone shed some light on this. Cant imagine there are too many people who have done this, but any and all help is appreciated. Thanks -Kyle P.S. ill post some pics in a little bit.