leeuniverse

Questions: 1. After replacing a knock sensor on my 93, is there anything that has to be done other than clearing the check engine light? For example, do I have this "safe mode" thing? Because my vehicle seems like it doesn't have any power unless I almost floor the gas pedal? I've replaced my knock sensor and my Cat Converter, and it still seems like I have little power. Or were Pathy's simply made this way? 2. I wish I had heard about this "before" I replaced the knock sensor so it would have been easier, but has anyone "moved" their knock sensor, attaching it to the top screws of the manifold for example?

Well, discovered it WAS apparently the Catalytic Converter, and maybe also the EGR Control Solenoid. (changed both at the same time) No check engine light after 5 days, so it looks good so far. Knock on wood. Anyway, thanks for the help. BTW... Also put in my Tranny Cooler all by myself even. Just took off the front grill found two bolts, and hooked up the hoses. Will still stick in a simple inline filter later, ran out of money.

I'm having the same problem, and me and my mechanic checked all the hoses and we can't see anything, leaking, loosness, etc. We were thinking it was maybe the "seal" of the full pump top of the tank since I only really noticed the smell during the cold, and not all the time, and thus we were thinking the seal is maybe expanding etc., thus not a good seal? But, then I'm clearly having a clogged Catalytic converter, and from what I hear a gas smell can be part of that problem. Though, we would think that the smell would occur all the time then? So, we are still thinking the seal as the problem? Anyone have any thoughts?

Do you or others have recommendations for these.....? I'm guessing changing these will improve gas mileage and power etc.?

Ya, it's definitely Carbon related. The moment I cleaned out the fully plugged diverter, it was all good.

Since we are on this, my alarm is doing stuff also. When I have the switch in the "Off" position, the alarm will just randomly go off by itself, and I don't think because of wind or anything. But, when I put the switch in the "Middle" position, in between on and off, it stays nice. I don't know yet what will happen when it's in the "On" position. Have bigger issues I'm trying to resolve first. One thing though, both my door locks are broke (won't work), one door won't open from the outside, one door using the electric lock the nob won't go up and down, and one door the light switch that comes on and off is broke. Don't know if any of those things might be related to the Alarm problem, thought I might mention just in case.

Ya, cleared and ran the codes again. Still the EGR Function code. Looking through the service manual, there is also no trouble shooting for the CAT, at least in relation to the EGR. Yes, and you are correct, there is no Error code for the CAT. I've talked to a Desiel mechanic friend, and while he can't be entirely sure with OBD1's, he said the symptoms described might be correct. I'm thinking the CAT will have to be taken off, the car ran to shoot out any Carbon, then the EGR Valve, Diverter, and hoses taken off, made sure they are clear and again starting the car to shoot any carbon, then sticking everything back on and a new CAT and that hopefully will fix the problem??? I'm still trying to find Mopar Carbon Cleaner, cause I want to do that once before I do the above, to hopefully get rid of all the carbon.

see above

WOW.... You got lucky to get such a clean ride.... My 93 I just got had only 115,000 on it, and it wasn't even close to as clean as yours. Check your SHOCKS also. I put new shocks in, and my car raised a bunch, between the tire and the car.

Hey guys.... Here's the latest. As you know the light wen't off for a good amount of time. However, today the light came back on. In between the time, I Seafoamed everything. The Engine, gas, Tranny, and through the Vacuum. My mechanic says my problem is likely the Catalytic converter. It was likely a little plugged already and then with the cleaning that caused it to get plugged up more, which according to them can also shoot carbon "back" through the system, and still cause the similar seeming problems. Loss of power is supposed to be a symptom, and I've always thought that it didn't seem to have the "pick-up and go" like other cars normally do. It seems to have a very low power to it. Also, during the colder days I get a gas smell in the back of the pathy. We thought it might be the gas tank "seal", but gas smell is often a symptom of the catalytic converter from what I here? Anyway, that is where I'm at..... Any ideas guys? Could it be a CAT like claimed? It seems pretty old, and with all the carbon in the system, it might indeed be clogged? Thoughts?

Ah.... That all makes sense now. Thanks

I'm a Newbie, and my "joints" are loose, and so I'm wanting to change everything to the good system. Can someone show me exactly what I need for my 93 4WD? The way to go seems to be RockAuto Parts, and I tried to follow these instructions: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=32345&view=findpost&p=610966 Are these all the parts I need to make it work in mine? Only thing is I get hung up on the last listing. It's no longer listed under the listing. It still lists the "Outer" with that name but not the inner. A search of the sight apparently still finds it, but it looks like the wrong part and name, i.e. they switched parts for the part #??? Anyway, I just need a list of what I need, and where to get the parts the cheapest new, and basic instructions. Thanks much.... P.S. I've read the thread twice trying to follow, but then I get confused. Also clarify the "tapping 18mm" thing. At first I thought that simply meant some adjustment, but then another post seemed to say a "machine shop" was required??? Here's some pics you all can use to explain to us all the process....

That's it.... Thank you...! No wonder I couldn't find it, it was named "Center Link". Me newbie, no idea what that is.... haa haa

Sorry to ask this dumb question, but I've looked over and over and I just can't find that thread in which a guy etc. were moding their front suspension, and there were links, discussion, etc. of different ways of doing it, what parts to use, etc. Anyone know where it is?

Thanks... BTW, for those of us who don't off-road in mud, would people recommend the better way to go is to use an engine spray, that's designed for cleaning engines etc.? Don't know, haven't seen, just heard I guess dealers do that?

Thanks for the info. Me, I figure it's best just to go new with those since they commonly go bad anyway. It's not all bad that I had to change these parts, it's just I had to do them much sooner than expected. But, thanks again, I really needed that info, since having idiots for a shop.

The rule is to cover up well with a zip lock bag the distributer cap and use a rubber band to make it snug, then spray your engine, avoiding the cap. The bag prevent's the problem you originally had, and prevent's any WORSE problems. You want to cover up in the future. Also try not to spray your spark plugs much, because apparently water can seep into the engine and cause a little of the problem also. Another thing, yes, also run the engine while washing it. However, running it WILL NOT prevent the distributer problem, you MUST still cover it up. BTW krmill07, the WD40 guy.... Are you spraying your entire engine including all electronics, wires, etc. with WD40 and THEN washing it???

Hey guys.... Doesn't using SeaFoam in the Gas, Engine, and through the Intake & Vacuum hose, and maybe also using MCCC Mopar Carbon Cleaner do all the same things the BG Inductions do??? Isn't that the cheaper and easier way to go for the layman, and it does the same exact cleaning? BTW, O'Reilly has SeaFoam on sale, buy 2 and get one free.

Hey dumb question..... What would have to be done to make a ride "super smooth"? In other words, I feel all the cracks pretty well driving in town, and was wondering if there is a way to reduce all that bumping. It seems hard on the system. Are there "shocks" a person can buy that will make a ride smoother, like super thick, big and expensive ones or something? Or would the entire suspension have to be changed out to a fancier system?

Hmmm... Not sure. I know when I've stuck in my last two PCV's for two different cars, the original was screwed all the way in, while my replacement was super tight screwing it in like only half way. I could have likely kept going, but from what I understand, as long as it's snug, one doesn't have to screw it all the way? Is that right folks?

Hey MY1PATH..... Just wanted to let you know that the "egr diverter" was the ENTIRE problem!!! I made my mechanic pull off the egr valve and the diverter and the diverter was COMPLETELY FULL of carbon. The idiot didn't even have a torch at the moment, they hadn't refilled the tanks, so they had to use gas, screwdriver and scrapping to get it all cleaned. (Although one good thing, is my mechanic knew to start the engine for it to blow out the carbon crap before sicking the EGR and Diverter back on.) They stuck it back in, they unhooked the battery, that apparently didn't work, so I cleared the check engine light with the computer, the check engine light then sputtered off and on for a bit of driving, then it's remained completely off. All along that looks like it was the entire problem. So I changed the EGR Valve for nothing, the Sensor for nothing, and had already ordered the EGRC Solenoid, and can't return, so will be changing that for nothing. Of course, changing all these likely would have to have been done anyway, but I could have saved a bit of money I don't have for the time being. Anyway, my idiot mechanic didn't even know about the egr diverter, which simply amazed me since even thought most cars don't have it, I've cleaned it myself once years ago with a car I had. So, he didn't know to check that. He's a pretty good mechanic, but clearly not as good as I thought, especially if even I remember when I was young cleaning that out myself on an old car. Even the shop manager didn't know about it. That should have been the very first thing they checked and cleaned before recommending I change other things. $500 wasted for nothing..... So, no more check engine light.... Thank you SO much. If it hadn't been for you, I would have ended up going to more and more things. Much thanks! BTW, I've SeaFoamed everything, the engine, gas, through the vacuum, and did the Tranny SeaFoam also. I will still likely do the Mopar Carbon Cleaner for an extra clean, I just have to find it. It might do better since it's a foamer, and SeaFoam oddly I guess isn't??? huh? Or maybe it does since it's in the name? By the way, the can say's it's safe for the Sensor's. Also, the O'Reilly's store I bought it from, had a SeaFoam demo guy come, and he actually SeaFoamed their cars, and he showed the before and after with special viewing tools inside the engine etc., and it DOES actually work as claimed. It's not as many believe simply burning off the SeaFoam itself. It IS cleaning out the carbon, etc. as claimed.

My new 93 Pathy the back drivers side door switch (the button that turns the lights on and off when closing/opening the door) was broke. You likely have the same problem. Of course, I have many more door problems, among many other mechanical things also. Mine was a super clean vehicle also, but still still broke. You'll want to take out the bulb underneath the drivers feet and also turn off your overhead lights until you can run to pick and pull or whatever and fix your problem.

Thanks much for the help....

Okay, I found it.... Sorry for the "obvious", but I didn't have access to my vehicle at the time, so I was going from memory. Didn't know that was there. I didn't need the "jerk" statements though. I'm pissed off now.... My mechanic should have known to do that before he put the EGR valve on. I'm planning on doing Mopar's Carbon Cleaner MCCC through the intake, will that get in there an eat the gunk if I spray a bunch in that direction, so I don't have to take off the EGR Valve again? Thanks for the help guys, appreciate it.

I don't believe I have a BPT valve on my model, I have a EGR Control Vacuum Solenoid valve, which I think does some of what the BPT does? The EGRC is the next thing I'm changing. Had to order it from Nissan or something, no one had it.