Rebel526

That's NICE, Vagabond! Where did you get it? How much? Details, please

Nice!

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/4945-headlights-performing-poorly/

Had my right-front wheel come off going down the road yesterday...Thankfully I wasn't going fast (yeah, seems suspicious). Ground down the stud on the LBJ, but no other apparent damage. Had a buddy give me a ride to the parts place and bough a pack of splined lug nuts. After replacing all the lug nuts on the front, and triple checking the rear, I wired in a new, blue, LED strip across center strip on the headliner as an alternate dome light.

Replaced the expansion valve & receiver/drier. Repaired the control unit in the dash. Took it to an AC shop to get the system flushed/vacuumed/charged....just to find out the compressor is dead. I had another one in the shop, but it's locked up solid

.....*pulls up a chair*

Pulled/cleaned/gapped the spark plugs, took a polishing wheel to my rims, then did a complete wash & wax. Vacuumed out the inside and armor alled the dash

Ran a whole can of seafoam through the intake...WOW! That made a LOT of smoke! Drove around a little afterwards...not sure if it's any better or if I just THINK it's better LOL

I actually never got air. In that pic I was standing still. In fact, notice the drivers side brake light is lit At no point did I get crazy with it, that's what's got me scratching my head as to HOW I bent the TRE's

I was just out in the woods near my house outside Mobile, AL. Tungsten, thanks for the link, I'll be looking into doing that. Let us know how it does off road

Sanded rust off the receiver hitch, painted with rust inhibitor then painted black. Had two cans of ruberized undercoating laying around, so I used those up (they don't go very far) Wired up a blue neon tube with a switch for the rear glass/hatch. Mounted amp in the back and cleaned up the wires to it and the rear speaker box. Adjusted the parking brake...

It was fun, while it lasted LOL....Luckily, I wasn't far from the house. The tie rods appear to be a very weak link in the front end...is there some way to strengthen way it's set up? I really wasn't getting crazy with it. I'm worried that bending, breaking tie rods is going to be an 'every time I take it out' occurrence

Thanks Scott

Yeah, I had the same issue. I cut out the bad metal, rust treated everything, went to Lowes and bought a sheet of 16GA steel, cut it to fit (with overlap), banged it into shape with a hammer/mallet, then welded the plate in. Then rust treated it all again and sprayed 3 coats of undercoating top and bottom.

Washed & waxed....then installed front drive shaft . Had to go test it out, right ? Took it back into the woods on an ATV trail, wound up bending the outer tie rods LOL. Limped it home and ordered replacements. I'll swap them after work tomorrow night

It's all good....till someone bends up a tie rod! LOL

The previous owner had the hole welded in and cut the O2 sensor off (instead of simply unplugging it ) I'll get that corrected when I can, funds are a bit short at the moment

Thanks for the replies! Not sure what the deal was...I wound up swapping the dizzy...found that one wire to the coolant temp sensor was broken at the plug (cut off plug and used spade connectors), unplugged/plugged in EVERY connection I could find. I'm guessing it was a bad connection SOMEWHERE as the problem went away and its running great again My CEL has never worked, I just know to check the ECM when it's not running right

EDIT:: I goofed...Codes are: 11 12 13 33 I know about 33, that O2 sensor doesn't even exist. But the rest? I've checked wiring, nothing seems amiss... At a loss here....

OK, here's what I have done...Though I have NO idea how I screwed something up! I changed my oil and spark plugs.....THAT'S IT! I start the truck, watch oil light go out, shut down. Replaced breather cover. Started truck and began to back out of shop.....truck dies. I'm thinking "HUH?" Start up again & notice it sounds a little off. Give it a goose and watch the tach....it goes up to ~2700- and sputters! I think "Uh oh, limp mode...WTH?" slide passenger seat forward and set computer to diag and check codes..."23" & "45". My list shows these to be: 23: Idle Switch; 45: Injector Leak What in the world could I have done to create THIS??? Ideas?

The RP is 'GL4 and GL5'. From what I've read, it should be OK. I've hunted all over for a strictly GL4, but NO ONE here seems to have it. If anyone knows different, PLEASE let me know! From the RP website, FAQ page: "My vehicle's transmission specifies an API GL-4 gear oil. Can I use Max-Gear? Yes. Max-Gear possesses both API GL-5 and GL-4 certification. Max-Gear is formulated with Royal Purple’s proprietary, Synerlec additive technology to provide the exceptional film strength necessary for GL-5 applications, yet it is noncorrosive to soft metals found in manual transmissions that specify a GL-4 rated lubricant."

Well, it drove down the street and back. But MAN! These old dry-rotted tires have GOT to GO! LOL. Also the sway bar bushings and links will be replaced Monday, and new wheel cylinders on the rear, as we found out after the run up the street and back that they are leaking....badly! That will just leave: Exhaust at collector rusted out, adjust idle, drivers side marker lens assembly, front drive shaft to reattach, change out fluid in transfer case and transmission ( I have 2 gallons of Royal Purple 75-90 for that) . I'd like to get all this done next week so I'll have two weeks to drive it around before I try to take it on a little trip to Atlanta

LED lights...I've made some nice mods on the interior lighting. I plan to have most all the lights LED

Almost there! Just a few things left to take care of, but the big hurdles are DONE! Woot!

Completed passenger front hub assembly then tested brakes, just to find the master cylinder was toast. After taking it off, I found it was clogged up wit jello-like goo New MC ordered, should be here this morning. Decided to clean out brake lines to make sure none of the jello is clogging them up- sprayed brake cleaner through front lines then used air to blow it all out. Also ordered a whole new set of lug nuts. Since I couldn't do more on the mechanical, I decided to tackle the lighting mods for the interior that I had planned. I re-wired the dome light and added a 3 position toggle switch. Then I added a blue florescent light forward of the dome. Also replaced the dome light bulb with a VERY bright LED group. The result is that I can switch between blue or white light for the interior (by door or switch on the dome light). I also added a blue 'night light'. It's a single LED, mounted just forward of the dome light that comes on with the dash lights to illuminate the center console area at night. It's not obnoxiously bright or distracting, just enough to let you see the console. The way it's mounted it's hard to spot when it's not on A friend dropped by as I was testing the finished set up and was amazed, he wants me to do the same for his Jeep Cherokee