CALPATHY

Yeah, something is wrong. My '97 (manual) gets 14-15 in the city and used to get 18-19 on highway, but after installing free-wheeling hubs I get around 20 in unlocked mode. (21 on great occasion with the wind behind me).

It has always done that, so I don't think so.

Mine "shudders" in really tight turns going slow when the manual hubs are locked, in unlocked mode it doesn't do that.

My LSD has been sufficient on wet/dry trails and some snow, but I don't do rock climbing.

Takes a while (once I had to drive almost 150 miles) before it starts registering codes again.

Too much of a possibility of a bad connection to the solenoid at some point in time (plus mine is a manual it can still be started without a starter), the fuel pump kill switch would be better in my opinion (or you can just remove the fuel pump fuse if you only need it on occasion). The electrician probably spliced into the second stage of the ignition switch circuit.

Personally I would not do it, but you can splice into the starter solenoid wire.

No, but I've used Redline synthetic, no complaints, but I do have LSD, so it is the LSD version.

Manual or AT? If manual it could be the switch on the clutch or clutch pedal adjustment.

To add, with manual transmission coasting downhill in neutral there is a noticeable difference with front hubs locked vs unlocked. Locked it almost feels like one is riding the brakes. After installing the Warn hubs I gett .5 to 1 mile better gas mileage on the average, my best was 22 mph on the highway (usually it is 21 unless windy) unlocked.

Couple of reasons, too much hassle sourcing parts and modifiying for not that much of a gain. Had I more time back then I might have done the mod.

I explored the e-fan option long ago but never went through with it. If I remember correctly people were using Altima parts to make the e-fan conversion.

You should, you will get better gas mileage. At least .5 mile city, 1 mile at least highway. And they are easy to install, there is an installation primer in the stickies, still, I believe.

Try to program it again, sometimes it doesn't work on the first try or two (not that I would know).

I saw that one when I was originally searching for answers, but that one is for the WD21. On the R50 the space to be gapped is app 2 1/2 inches and does not align anywheere close to a straight line, so the fittings suggested probably would not work too well unless bending the metal tubing. I am somewhat leery of trying to bend the metal tubing as I could easily kink or break it. My current solution is removing the short metal tubing between the clutch master cylinder, use a rubber line between the master cylinder onto the other end of the damper tubing. It seems that it is an M10 fittings, male and female, so in theory it should work. https://www.carid.com/dorman/clutch-hydraulic-hose-mpn-h38119.html I may add an M10 male female elbow at the master cylinder if the hose does not bend enough to prevent rubbing. So, unless someone may have had a more elegant solution, I'll be the guinea pig for this one. I further researched the damper on other vehicles, i. e. Lexus, other Nissans, BMW, Toyota, and most people who removed them were happier with the damper gone, they do seem problematic. Having all my cars manual, I always wondered why on occasion the clutch on the Pathy felt as if it were slipping, now I know why, the damper slows down the engagement; some people have even suggested that the clutch should last longer with the damper removed.

A few months ago I replaced a leaking clutch slave cylinder and now my clutch damper is seeping a bit. Unfortunately they are no longer in stock anywhere as they stopped manufacturing them. I can get some parts for a rebuilt online at exorbitant prices (damper cover gasket $55 ?? from Nissan). Has anyone had any experience with these and what fails on these? It may be just the damper cover gasket, which I may be able to duplicate out of a rubber sheet, but there is not much info on the internet, including here, outside of advice to remove it. Has anyone removed theirs, did it make much difference and how did you connect the lines (female flare connector, size?)? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

These work well for the 97' Pathy. I don't have anyone flash me yet they seem to be aimed just like stock. https://www.amazon.com/Torchbeam-Headlight-Compact-Brightness-Replacement/dp/B07T1QKLXY/ref=pd_ybh_a_sccl_77/142-7828043-7971640?pd_rd_w=F1Han&content-id=amzn1.sym.67f8cf21-ade4-4299-b433-69e404eeecf1&pf_rd_p=67f8cf21-ade4-4299-b433-69e404eeecf1&pf_rd_r=39N2FNYM0964THKP839K&pd_rd_wg=wRxgM&pd_rd_r=466a2164-41dc-4cbb-bde1-6a9702004af0&pd_rd_i=B07T1QKLXY&psc=1

To add, those were aftermarket ones from Amazon. Sorry, I originally misread the question. If I remember correctly it will code to the ECU, I am sure there are many different combinations so it would be unlikely that someone has the same code.

I programmed 2 many moons ago but down to one. There was an instruction booklet that came with the units that explained how to program multiple units (I don't think it gave a number as to how many) which I am sure I lost. I do remember I had to do program it several times before it worked.

You are not alone, in my case it was the front driver's side that flew off, SE fairing also. So far no luck in finding one. I may do a 3D printed one when I have more time in winter, a mirror image of the passenger side one.

+1 on the manual hubs. Best I got before manual hubs on the freeway was 19 mpg, normal was 17-18, after manual hubs I get occasional 21 but mostly 19-20 all depending on headwinds. One other benefit is there is less wear and tear on your drivetrain.

That is what I would do.

I have almost an identical story. A month after new tires I got the death wobble at around 55 mph, I figured it was the suspension. Friend of mine suggested I have the tires re-balanced, I did at a different shop that said a weight came off and said no wonder they were of poor quality and replaced all of them. However, they also said that the non lead weights are crap.

It took close to 200 miles (about a month) on mine, but mostly city driving, when I was impatiently waiting for it to set for a smog check. I read you have to do a lot of varied driving, including freeway to get it to reset faster, whether that is true or not I have no first hand experience.

Loose or dirty battery connection, especially ground?