MrT

Got stuck... on a paved road...... Was turning around on a not really that narrow road with a very narrow shoulder. Misjudged it by about a foot. Sooo that's an easy way to blow $100 for a winch from a tow truck. At least I didn't end up in the river at the bottom of the drop. So now I have to live with the fact that the only time I've gotten a Pathfinder stuck was on a paved road.

Sounds like it could be a bad starter solenoid to me. give it a whack with a hammer and see if that helps. If it does you'll eventually need to replace the starter. You can only hit it with a hammer so long before it stops working completely.

Wow... that sounds like a whole lot of work just to not have to turn on the wipers in a separate motion. BTW. I have the exact opposite problem. I got the wipers but no fluid! I guess I should get a new pump for it but I'm lazy. I just carry around a bottle of water and throw it on the windshield when I come to stop lights I never realized how little I really needed it in the first place.

Planning on setting your bumper on fire? If you aren't terribly concerned with a little texture, spray can bed liner might be a good choice. Certainly is "rugged." And I'd personally use a red scotch-brite pad (3M 7447) instead of sand paper. It's easier to clean up after you're done and when it gets clogged you can just rinse it out with a hose. You could probably prep everything you're looking to paint with one but why not buy a box. You can use them for everything.

What is the voltage drop at the battery when you try and start it?

Time for a new battery... Green corrosion can be from (most likely) the copper in the wire or (less likely) the iron on the terminal connector. Either way, if it is appearing this quickly you have battery acid present. Wash your wire and connectors with baking soda and water and then let them dry out before you reconnect to neutralize any acid. ... and make sure they're nice and tight

Yes, this is always a great place to start. My stock ground terminal has small bolt stud jammed in it because it got loose and sloppy over the years. It's very easy. Should have 12.6-8 with the car off at the terminals and 13.8 with it on.

P.S. Holy long amp wire run Batman!

It's completely normal. That's what it's there for. If it really bothers you turn the A/C off.

test the voltage at the terminals, then the terminal connectors, then the starter hot and bat neg. Then test them AGAIN when it's running (minus the starter) plus at the alternator. Should let you know exactly where the juice is lacking. EDIT: wouldn't hurt to test resistance from the Neg terminal to the engine (pretty much anywhere metal) and then the body for ground continuity. As well as from the Positive terminal to test for some type of a short.

Speaking from experience... it's a bitch. It shouldn't be but it is. Since it looks like you live in a salt state, have fun getting all those bolts holding the rear bumper cover off in one piece. I had to drill them ALL out and re-tap every single one.

Take it to a different shop... (You know, one that looks shaby and has some old dude at the counter) That rust isn't that bad at all. Fix the brake lines for piece of mind a long with the CV. For what you'll put into it to fix it you can't even touch something as reliable if it truly does "run like a champ."

This is because your factory amp converts the "speaker level" signal back into a line level signal to amplify it again at speaker level. Not an ideal situation but not necessarily bad either, just depends. All things being equal, if you didn't pay attention to the arbitrary number on your volume dial, which sounded better at the same loudness? That's what would make my decision for me. I'm not sure what you mean. Are you using an aftermarket amp then? I don't think the factory amps have a "gain" setting other than the speaker level signal you put into it/

If you're connecting two wires together that is called a splice. Some adapters have the stub for the factory amp turn on lead and some don't. Either way you need an acc on lead from the radio connected to the turn on lead of the pathfinder's harness. Doesn't really matter how you do it, it just needs to be done. This is why people hook up after market radios and get no sound, they miss the amp turn on lead. Glad you figured it out. Enjoy the new sounds!

This is pointless. Your radio gets plenty of power already ESPECIALLY if you want to use the factory amps. Your harness is wired incorrectly. It's not as simple as connecting like to like. You need to splice the amp turn on lead (or ant on depending) to the turn on lead for the factory speaker amp. That simple, VERY common mistake to make when installing a stereo in a Pathy. EDIT: Haven't had a WD21 in a coon's age but the diagram says it should be the purple wire. (it says 'P' not sure what else that would be.)

Yes, I believe so...

just to be a nerd. Pure water is completely nonconductive. It's the ions in the water that conduct electricity.

Yes, I have. It's just as capable as any stock pathfinder if not a little more so. I think people around here will change their tone when they get cheap enough to bring home and mod. It's still kinda ugly though. I'll admit that much.

Maybe some of them just rust more??? Between my father and myself we have had 2 WD21s and two R50s and NONE of them have had any issues at all with rust... as in zero. And I do live in a state where there is salt on the road 4-5 months out of the year. Maybe they just use stronger stuff up there in Canada?

Not if you're willing to spend the $2.00 a month to spray off the underside of your car in the winter like I do... And wouldn't you know that my pathfinders don't have rust problems

I was with you until you said this... Now I know you aren't to be trusted

Silly question but did you put the belt on too tight?

So what would you call an HMMWV? Seems to me like one hell of a truck... and it has independent suspension all around. I'm pretty sure it can out wheel any pathfinder too (as long as the trail is as wide as an airstrip )

A lot of people still used horses into the 20's too. To each his own...

The R51 has a larger wheelbase but overall is not any bigger than an R50. And that longer wheelbase combined with the loss of the live rear axle make the handling a lot better on the R51 in my opinion and experience. While the live axle is better for off-road, on road there is no comparison. How can you love axle hop going over (even small) bumps???