MrT

A buddy of mine blew the motor in his 89 Toyota pickup. I've been trying to help him find a replacement but am having a hard time. Can anyone recommend an online seller or junkyards that will ship. Cheapest I've found so far is $1,800 which seems a little steep.

This just happened to me when I replaced a cv axle. I just tapped it on the rest of the way with a dead blow. I suppose it will be more work to take off again but it doesn't seem that bad.

Junk yards are like flea markets, haggling is part of the fun. They're going to quote you what they think you'll pay and you have to find what they'll take.

Tape adapter... Fm Transmitter... FM modulator... Splicing the connection like in the link isn't the greatest solution because it's never a good idea to send signal to an output and it might cause some impedance issues which would compromise sound quality. But if you want to try it, what can I do to stop you? Chances are you won't fry anything, but you certainly could in the long run.

I.M.E with car audio a blown fuse almost always means a short somewhere. Especially if it's at the fuse box. And engine whine doesn't have to be from a ground loop. It can come from signal and power cables running too close together. Still could be a bum amp but I'd look very closely at the wiring first.

I hate the millage too. Really bums me out with the current price of gas. The way I justify (rationalize) it to myself is that whatever I'd save in gas by buying a new vehicle I'd probably end up putting back into the vehicle in maintenance that I know my Pathy won't need. Better the devil you know than the devil you don't... At least that's what I tell myself.

Nice work. By the looks of your plugs though I'd read them after a little bit to see if everything else you did evened out the mixture.

Well... You need to test every one of these voltages. Print out the pages and write down what you are actually getting. When you know what's out of range you know where to start. Check these wires with the wiring diagram and see what if anything is common to them. It'll take a lot of time and patience.

Not gonna be a popular call but I'd say take it to the dealer to at least get a diagnosis. Of course that is if you really need this vehicle to work properly. You seem to have been beating your head against a wall for some time now with very little progress. And this doesn't seem like one of those "one little thing" problems. To throw my .02 in... You probably have some atrocious wiring issues that you aren't going to be able to figure out for yourself, or a bad ECU. What you really need to do is go step by step through EF & EC-127 through 132 in the FSM. That's your baseline. Move on from there to individual components. It's going to be a giant pain and unless you are pretty good with wiring it will be next to impossible for you to get anywhere.

Replaced RH valve cover gasket. I think it was bad... Should get rid of that beautiful perfume I've been smelling for 2 weeks. On a side note, I completely forgot to put the plug wires back in before I fired it up... Apparently it will run on 3 cylinders

Well, my guess is that your flange is f'd. So have fun with that. If you can still return the part I would. You can fix that for $15 with a piece of straight pipe cut to size and two exhaust clamps. Should take you half an hour (an hour is you only have a hacksaw).

You have to remove the lamp. One screw on the inside (toward the middle) and a bolt on the outside (toward the fenders). Pull the whole thing out and then there are four screws on the back. Be careful, they are easy to break. Pop the back off and it's pretty self explanatory from there.

Just an FYI: Using a speaker with a higher impedance rating is fine, you'll just get less "volume" from them. Going lower can blow your amp though. You don't need the schosche adapter either if your new HU has line outs (RCA plugs) and you can solder or figure out a crimp connector. All it does is convert a speaker level signal to line level. This is complete overkill unless you have one crazy system. You'll need 18 AWG max. And contrary to what anyone who is "in the know" will tell you, lamp cord works just fine; It's just ugly, but usually cheaper. And the stock Bose system sucks. I will agree with that.

Your ECU is designed by engineers who know what shielding is. While not impossible I find this extremely unlikely. If anything the ECU would cause interference in your speaker signal.

Check the voltage at the MAF while the engine is running. You need to back probe the connector on the MAF. To do this you very carefully wiggle the leads of your meter under the weather sealed connector pins. I've got an R50 so I can't really show you with a picture. It has three wires. Voltage supply, voltage return and ground. You want to check the supply and return individually with your meter set on VDC.

This is not obvious at all. It's still a beast off road. The only thing you can possibly say about the suspension is that there are more parts to break. But that doesn't mean that they will unless you heavily abuse it.

Got a free car wash from Mother Nature...

Like These?

I unscrew the gas cap too. Seems to help a little bit with the gas leakage.

Check pins 16 & 17 at the ECM for the proper voltage. It could be an issue with the wiring in between the MAF and ECM. Just to add to your frustration, by the nature of an intermittent electrical problem it probably isn't doing it when you're testing it. The only thing I can suggest is to test at the ECM and then drive around watching the voltage to see if it will cut out. When my MAF was bad it wasn't "always" bad. It picked and chose when it wanted to work.

Just to update. It was def off a tooth. Adjusted it and now it runs like a champ with no misfire. The PO screwed the pooch on that one. I got this as a repo so half of me thinks it might have been intentional (everyone seems to do their own work around these parts). I'm just glad I did this and it's finally fixed. I've been beating my head against a wall for two years to get this thing running properly and I feel like I'm 90% there now. Just need to replace a the LH CV and fix my buggered exhaust. Thanks for all the help! P.S. On the plus side since this thing had a bad MAF and this timing issue I got it for $2500 under blue book and now that I have it running correctly it's blue book price is more than what I have in it after two years of driving it around.

I'm going on a driving/camping vacation in a week so I decided the weekend before was a good time to change my timing belt. I got this Pathy with 99,500 miles on the odo. and now have 150,000, so I had no idea what shape it was going to be in. The belt itself looks fine. It's non-Nissan so it was obviously changed before. The problem is that no matter how many times I turn the crank, with #1 at TDC the LH camshaft sprocket is always one tooth off from the dimple. This bank has always given me issues with running a little lean and misfiring occasionally at idle. Could this be the cause or am I missing something. Please advise...

This section looks a little barren so I'll add some info... If you have a code on your shiny new Pathy, Nissan has done you a favor and made it far easier than ever before to read it with no tools. All you need is your right foot. Step 1: With the vehicle OFF, turn ign. to ON position Step 2: Wait 3 seconds Step 3: Fully depress and release the gas pedal 5 times within 5 seconds Step 4: Wait 7 seconds Step 5: Fully depress gas pedal for 10 seconds You should now have a flashing MIL. The long flashes are the the 1,000ths digit (i.e. X000) with short flashes and a pause in between for the next three digits. Ten long flashes for the first digit means '0'. Pretty easy, huh. Now just press and hold the gas pedal for another 10 seconds and the codes will be cleared (but still flashing, doesn't reset until you out the ign. in the OFF position again) Hope that helps...

I think the #6 plug is akin to skinning a cat. The right way is the one that works...