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ABCAB

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ABCAB last won the day on February 28 2016

ABCAB had the most liked content!

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About ABCAB

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    NPORA Regular

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1997 Nissan D21 2.7TD Stationwagon Now with MQ Patrol H260 rear and C200 Front end, 7" lift, 33" rubber and soon to get second MQ Patrol TC for 4.2 low range.
  • Place of Residence
    Parys
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    45+
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    I Wish I had a Pathy!
  • Year
    1997

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South Africa
  • Country
    South Africa

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  1. I'd also go with bearings, but wow, by this time your brake rotor would be scraping and making horrible noises. The wheel would be flopping around. On my 97 D21 the wheel was laying in on the right, but I had an encounter with a rock that bent something. Nobody could find what bent through just measuring, so the truck got written off. I pulled it back to life with a SFA that took away any guess work on the IFS. IFS is like a back problem, once you operate, the trouble never stops. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
  2. Daver123, thanks for the reply. Sorry I'm only getting back to this thread now, been offline for a while with work and technical problems. Yip, I'm running a leaf sprung SAS at the moment. I would really like to try my luck with a three link and Panhard. I thought of Radius arms, but I see some guys are saying they get binding. Basically what I think I need is measurements from someone who has managed to get a stable rig at higher highway type speeds, but have been able to achieve some good flex, I mean, that is what the SAS was for in the first place. I have ended up with around a 6-7" lift, so I am hoping that just to copy the length of your arms and hieght of the mounts off the floor on the diff and the chassis ends should give me a good place to start. I can compare angles of the upper and lower arms and see how this fits into my plans. I supppose technically, I should rather be looking at the distance from the centre of the diff tube to the chassis mounting point. I know you can't really have a good handling road rig, and good offroad flex in a single package, but yours seems to be close, and mine is my daily drive that needs to be fairly manageable for my wife to drive as well. Of you think I am hoping for too much, please tell me. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
  3. Will also be following this thread. I would like to a have two spare wheel carriers on the rear bumper, but this could het very tight with two 33" tires, and also somewhat heavy. I have already tied into the chassis on the rear with 16mm (probably around 3/4") flat stock thatvare my recovery points, and just capped the stock towbar after shortening it and lifting it slightly because it was messing with my departure angle. Then I did a 7" lift, and everything changed[emoji24] . Now I am looking to do something that will tie back to the chassis to protect the body when coming off a rock. The tow bar will have to get a big drop plate with another tie in to the chassiss to support and stop any twisting. My front end cross member no longer resembles anything Nissan after the SAS, and also incorporates copious amount of 3/4" plate and carriers for the suspension. We have a fairly unique bushbar on our rigs here, and I would like to keep as much of that look, but pull the edges of the bumper up to aid approach angles. Anyhow, so I'll like to see what designs are out there. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
  4. Do you know where you were getting vibes on your first setup. Was it the angles from side to side, or too short rear shaft that was causing the problems? I am on my way to a second divorced TC behind the TX10. Problem is a have to go this route because of the diffs I am using and need to have the right drop.
  5. Daver123, your lift looks about what mine has ended up to be. I am not happy with where my leaf SAS has ended up. The handling is a problem and it looks like I may have a problem with the way the additional blade with military wrap. The eyes do not allow any movement over the first blade and hence a bunch of binding. I actually think a lot of the weight is now supported by binding instead of spring tension. I am on my way to go cut the eyes off the military wrap, but could end up with my van sitting on the bump stops. Will a three link with panhard have the basic geometry as yours on the chassis mounts and length of arms? Is it possible to get some measurements from you with regards positioning of your arms on the chassis and angles. As you know this is my daily driver and time in the garage needs to be kept to a minimum. My budget is also, as usual, zero, but I have a set of coils front and rear from a 4.8 Patrol I hope to use. Any help would be appreciated. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
  6. Mine came about when I bent the D21 and I had no other way to keep it on the road. Quotes were open ended to try and fix it and nobody could say with certainty that they could get it right. Insurance wrote it off and I could not afford that. I was unemployed and had to do something to save my only ride. Our 4x4 forum here got together and all kinds of donations came in. I had to work with what I got and a very limited budget. Leaf pack from the rear of a one tonner hardbody is what I had. I have since been struggling with "funny" handling issues and have even cut a welded the front diff out three times to try and change castor in the hope it sorts things out. Now I find that my leaf pack that I added a military wrap blade to, could be the problem. The wrap blade has no space for movement on its eyes, and is under binding and tension. My reasoning is that I may end up with springs that can't hold up the front end when I cut off the eyes of the military wrap blade. I still can't afford much for this project and I think a new leaf pack will make for a whole new build. I have a set of coils from a 4,8 Patrol that I think could come in handy on a 3 link. I have even thought of building a radius arm to replace the trailing end of the leaf pack using its original mounting points, and adding a panhard with coils. Internet searches tells me its not going to be that easy. My build is very unique as I doubt anybody has used the diffs I have. I have moved the drive train to the other side of the vehicle in the front to have a right drop. Rear has to undergo the same changes. So, what I really need is some info from someone that has done a D21 3 link with panhard, that can tell me where my chassis mounting points need to be and angles of the arms and things like that. Radius arms seem quick and nasty and guys say thet don't articulate very well with binding. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
  7. I'm thinking more and more of going with a 3 link. Would be nice if someone had the geometry figured on a D21 that could tell me where to mount stuff and what to do. Mine is mostly a daily drive and I am sure coils would .make a big difference. My big problem is that I doubt that anybody has done a D21 SAS with the diff I used, and the resulting 7" lift. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
  8. When I did my D21 SAS, I pulled in at a scrap metal merchant and asked him to weigh the front and rear independently. Came to 1200kg up front and 900kg on the rear. You should be half that on each wheel. Had leaf packs built to carry appropriate weight on the front end with the one tonner leaf pack as a base to work from. They added one military wrap blade to the pack. I could possibly have gone a bit heavier as the pack carries the weight with an exactly straight blade. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
  9. Now you mention it, the donor vehicle I bought for the last rescue, was a 82 MQ Patrol UTE for its suspension. It also went to saving another two vehicles with a heap of spares left that have probably helped even more. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
  10. So mine is not quiet a Pathfinder, but in 1996, it was the closest thing Nissan offered in our country Earned the name "Hillbilly" in 2006 already. But I have carried the name further by in the way the vehicle has been modified and fixed over the years. Budgets have always been tight. Vehicle has been written off twice by the insurance, but I have each time been able to rescue it. End result is some sketchy work and repairs. But it has never left me stranded next to the road or trail. Gets used as my daily intimidation tool...err.... driver. He is part of the family. Disclaimer! ! No offence intended to Hillbillies. I use this term with utmost affection. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
  11. I got a aftermarket Pathy look alike with fender contour so unique that no over the counter snorkel would fit. I built mine from fibre glass. It took a while to get it as I wanted, or at least was happy with. Started off with expanding foam and a lot shaping. Seal off and smooth with body putty. Even got the vehicle model embossed in the fender. Pulled a mould off the plug I built. The head was a special build and got attached permanently to the pipe section. Doing it myself I could make sure the pipes all seal 100% and do a seal test every so often. Block the head and the engine must die from air starvation. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
  12. 93 Pathy is based on the D21 chassis. You can crank up the torsions and maybe even add a coil over, but 40mm is about the limit and you are into having problems with draglink, idler arm and tie rod ball joints going south in a hurry. OEM spares last a bit longer, but we know how much that costs. I cut bump stops to give myself a bit more droop, as 40mm puts you very close to dropping onto your bump stops over suspension fall out situations. Then I started getting CV binding at full droop. Only way to get a descent lift is with drop box/frame to drop the entire front end off the chassis. The D21 front end hates lifts and bigger tires. Nissan did not give us much to play with. My D21 leaf sprung rear end was open to just about as much lift as I wanted. Bashed in drop boxes and 150mm lift. With a one piece propshaft my angles on the UJs are still ok. I just had to extend the propshaft a bit to reduce the amount of hang out on the slip yolk at the gearbox. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
  13. My D21 is slightly modified in that region to take the shackle mounts for my SFA leaf pack. Chassis extended forward by about 20 centimeters (8") with 1/2" flat stock 3" wide with a "C" channel crossmember 3"x 1"x 1/4" thick. Off that I have my shackle mounts and attachment points for my standard Nissan bullbar that had absolutely no issue lifting the 1,2ton front end with a hilift jack. One day when I am brave enough to tackle a 3link setup, I will not need all that steel construction, but parts of it can stay for bumper and winch. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
  14. You could also have dislodged a resin build up in the pipes between the filter and the injectors. Now that gunk has broken loose and stuck in your injectors. Spray pattern is compromised and no good for cold starting, but not affecting higher revs performance that much, with enough air swirl to achieve combustion conditions close to normal. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
  15. Where do you attach the bumpers to the chassis. Is it only under the bumper on the cross member, or do you also go through the grill past the radiator and pick up those two little brackets. They seem a waste of time to me. I am also wanting to do something more fitting my truck. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

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