01burgundyQX4

Looks like the factory service manual is calling that the air relief plug. You can take that off when filling the radiator, and put it back on when coolant spills from it. This site has factory service manuals: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

I think you have to let the coolant system get rid of the last amount of air. Do the best you can to fill it up, and don't open it up again. When it gets hot the air will expand and will push out into the overflow tank. When it cools down again it will pull the coolant in the overflow tank into the radiator. The more this cycles the more air is purged and if you keep the coolant overflow full the coolant will replace the air. If you take off the radiator cap you let more air into the system. If you have a hole or leak in the hose that goes to the bottom of your overflow tank, it will pull air back in to the radiator. If the overflow is not the high point of the system, then you will have problems. You will need to jack up the front of the vehicle and let the temp/overflow cycle a few times, then don't open the system again.

I'm planning on MD springs all around and 1" strut spacers to level things up. I'm hoping this will ride a little better than the HD springs in the front, and eliminate any possible strut topping out. Hopefully when the wheel hangs it won't damage the cv joints from movement beyond typical range. Qx4donald, I have the same wheels, and have a question. Can the plastic hub caps be cut out for the Warn hubs, or are the hubs so large that the cutout would get into the bolt recesses in the plastic cap? Thanks.

You might read page 44 of "Nissan 300ZX The Enthusiast's Companion". It talks about the differential being used as a center diff in 4 wheel drive systems, but some industry engineers didn't think it would work well as an axle diff. Ford used one in the rear of some of their european 4x4's. The difference in rotation of two perforated plates cause the high viscosity silicon oil to stiffen. It is known for it's smooth and progressive action, and that is why it has been used in many sports cars. I've got one in my 300zxtt and I never notice it. I just have traction, (or not ) with both tires. Today it is used in some crossover type all wheel drive vehicles, but the 300zx diff may be "tuned" differently and may not work well in your application.

Year: 2001 QX4 Lift: Stock suspension Wheels: Stock 17" Wheels Tires: 265-70-17 Nitto Terra Grapplers Notes: Had to heat up the front fender liners and re-form the plastic several times. Added new bolts and fender washers between the bumper cover and the bottom of the steel bumper backup to lift the bumper cover and gain front fender clearance. I took out the turn signals/fog lights to heat one side of the fender liners while pushing out on the fender liners with my hand between the tire and the liner. I used leather work gloves and the heat from the heat gun is practically unnoticeable. I think I notice a little rubbing in reverse at times, it's really minor. No problems with the strut, but it is really close. On some severe dips it will bottom out and rub on the front fender flair connections at the top. I think the stock springs are sagging some, and I could add strut spacers and probably fix the bottom out issue, but I think I will raise it 2". I have removed my running boards, the steel frames were pretty rusty.

Rick13, I read that thread before I ordered mine. I was really mad when they came in and were built without the full width connection to the body seam. Since then, I've realized that being mad is not accomplishing anything, I'll just have to fix them. I did call the company I bought them from, and pointed out that the instructions for my year R50 state that there are to be 4 bolts each side into the body seam, and only 2 holes and bolts are provided, but they didn't seem to be concerned.

I'm new to the forum, and I am interested in adding a little more off road capability to my R50. I recently bought these: Part of the reason I bought these was that the attachment at both the body seam and boxed frame would create a couple that would resist vertical forces. I expected to see this attachment at the seam to continue the length of the rail. Here is a comment from the manufacturer: "Not mounting along the entire seam causes extreme stress with the leverage of an impact on the outer rocker itself. Our design distributes the load across a broad area instead of focusing it on small spots." I was surprised to see that the attachment at the body seam is only 2 bolts per side, one near the front of the seam tube, and one about at the mid point of the seam tube. Does anyone have experience with this product and will it hold up to severe use when bolted on? It is very sturdy, not junk, but the attachment is not what I expected. I plan to have a welder cap the open tube ends and sleave the bolt holes since they are open to the weather and there is no good way to maintain the interior surfaces of this tube. Also I plan to add an angle across the back frame mount tube to add two more connections to the body seam. The caps at the tube ends will be angles with holes to provide more bolts to the body seam. Thanks.