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Daddy Rim

Vendors
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    136
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About Daddy Rim

  • Birthday 09/20/1981

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2001 R50 LE 1997 R50 Klondike Edition
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    I Own A Shop Or Work As A Professional Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    LE
  • Year
    2001

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    jeffaprilnoah@hotmail.com
  • Website URL
    http://www.nx4industries.com
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Timmins ON

Daddy Rim's Achievements

NPORA Veteran

NPORA Veteran (3/5)

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  1. Currently $110 per set, hardware included. :-)
  2. I'm surprised to see the issues with assembly. If you check out the instructions, I offer alternatives to tack welding, that being a chemical adhesive. I have personally tested two with great success. The only downside is that you have to wait for them to set. The adhesives I recommend are: Lord Fusor 110B/111B Locktite 271 Tack welding is of course the quickest, but be sure to coat your weld with a rust prohibiting coating if you do, to avoid any corrosion issues. Cheers, Jeff
  3. 7 hours is a great turn around. Mine took almost 5 weeks by the time they received parts and figured out how to do the repair.
  4. If you're off road at a slow speed it shoudl not be an issue, however I would NOT recommend you drive the truck without a front sway bar end link on public road ways as it will totally change the dynamics of the vehicle. Some on the forum may have done this, but you will notice huge body lean and severely altered handling. It's a quick fix with readily available parts.
  5. The bearing tool can be had for approx $10 from harbour freight or similar. Its the one for Isuzu, or at least that is the one I purchased which works great.
  6. Rgallant, your pathy look identical to the 97 I had. Same color, same gold color tubular side step bars. Nice!
  7. My wifes 01 had 245-75-16 on stock wheels and suspension without clearance issues, several years ago. Wouldn't worry about that size at all.
  8. From my disussions,AC procurtes their own springs. OME springs are slightly different than AC's offering.
  9. Just an fyi, we ran our 97 until it had well over 205,000 miles and sold it. It was poorly maintained before I got it at 185,000 miles. Its still on the road. I wouldn't worry about a well maintained 150,000 mile unit.
  10. I ran OME on both the 97 and 2001 as they were better price wise to obtain in Canada. Was happy with them.
  11. Be cautious. The Snake racing spacer is designed to mount between the upper isolator and the lower bracket. This should not be used in conjunction with lift springs as the strut will be too close to its full extended length, resulting in top out issues. The only way around top out issues when using a strut spacer and lift springs is to mount the strut spacer on top off the upper isolator, thus not forcing the strut closer to its fully extended length. Be sure that you can mount the snake racing spacer on top before placing your order. 35mm is the absolute maximum you would ever consider going as you risk damaging the CV joints. I would highly recommend locking hubs.
  12. Well I guess I should chime in. I have enjoyed reading everyones posts on the subject of max CV angles. Personally I have not had any negative feedback from any of my customers to date on the spacers. Again I believe the results will vary on a case by case basis. What I've always found important to remember is that every "field" situation is different. You have a much greater chance of grenading a CV joint when your suspension is fully extended, especially if you hammer the throttle to get yourself out of a trouble spot. Also it should be noted that many people are installing lifts on vehicles with high mileage. It begs the question, what is the condtion of the CV prior to the lift? I would argue that a spacer will present no greater risk of CV joint failure during normal operation. To further that argument I have had both the 97 and '01 in a similar situation crawling through skidder trails with full extension, and have yet to change the CV on the '01 with 232K kms and the 97 had 331k kms when we sold it with the original CVs. But again, its how you drive I suppose. I'm not a throttle hammering type of driver, even in sticky situations. Just my $0.02, and as always I appreciate everyones collective experiences and opinions. That what makes forums great.
  13. Nope, no mess up, if you read the instuctions, they provide details on how to secure the studs in place prior to installing. You may have missed a little step is all. You have a few options to secure the stud in place, one is to use an adhesive such as Loctite 454 adhesive gel or other chemicals as recommened in the instructions, or you could always spot weld the fasteners if you have such capabilities available to you. As an option, we offer the lower strut brackets ith the longer studs pre-installed, however the studs only have to be secured long enough to install and reach their proper torque value, thus an adhesive, after curing, should provide you with sufficient torque off to permit safe installation. Should you have any further questions on the install, don't hesitate to shoot me an email sales@nx4industries.com Cheers, Jeff
  14. I still have one set that Iwill sell to NPORA members for $110 + shipping if your interested.
  15. My '01 experienced the same "floaty" feel, which required an adjustment of the steering box preload. The FSM has instructions on how to make this adjustment. Oddly only my '01 required this adjustment and not my 97 that had amost double the mileage. If all of your steering components, i.e. steering rack bushings, tie rod ends etc are in good condition, this may be something to look at. J.
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