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Dan.NY

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Posts posted by Dan.NY

  1. Yes I’m at 220k. I measured them at about 200k. I’ve only used ceramic pads from nowhere special. Rotors came with the vehicle in 98. Good idea about pulling the fuse. I hope there is no pinhole in the metal line. I’m a bit concerned about that metal line.  Thanks. 

  2. After some YouTube videos, yup, the leaky hose is the one on the outlet side of the filter, but not at the filter. It’s the other side of the that hose that is leaking.  

     

    The filter is original, like many things . My rotors are also still original and well within spec.  I’m going to replace the filter though soon as I can get one.  Thanks for the comments. I should be good in a few days. Next job is replace valve cover gaskets. 

  3. I finally tracked down the issue. Unrelated to the timing belt change. A hose near the fuel tank is not sealing properly. I looked at this before and did not see it so it must have gotten worse. I can see a steady drip now.  I tightened/loosened the hose clamp, changed the position, pushed the hose more onto the metal line, even added a second hose clamp. Nothing stopped the drip.I’m a bit stumped as I’ve done some messing about with various engines fuel hoses, never had one behave like this.  I’m assuming a new length of hose is in order?  the question though is how to remove the existing line without dumping the contents of my fuel tank? This is a short length about 6-7 inches, one end attaches to a small cylindrical object. The other connects to a metal line. Where the hose and metal line meet is right over the axle. Does anyone happen to know the hose diameter as I would like to get it and then attempt replacement?  Thanks.

  4. I found the hose clamps and rubber connectors on the rail, fairly certain. In my 98, there is nothing to tighten down though.  The clamps are the kind you squeeze the ends together with needle nose, not the screw type. They are dry. I spent a good while shining the light about everywhere.  Nothing to see.  Matter of fact I ran the engine for 15 or so minutes and could not smell gas this time. Exhaust does not smell like fuel either.  I’ll check fuel pressure gauge, but I would think  it would run rough with excess fuel.  I’ll check though. 

  5. I found the hose clamps and rubber connectors on the rail, fairly certain. In my 98, there is nothing to tighten down though.  The clamps are the kind you squeeze the ends together with needle nose, not the screw type. They are dry. I spent a good while shining the light about everywhere.  Nothing to see.  Matter of fact I ran the engine for 15 or so minutes and could not smell gas this time. Exhaust does not smell like fuel either.  I’ll check fuel pressure gauge, but I would think  it would run rough with excess fuel.  I’ll check though. 

  6. I’m looking into this. So far I haven’t located the elbows or hose clamps. My light is recharging so hopefully when that is full I’ll,see better.  I wonder if this is the issue, will this leak continuously or only when running. I’m concerned about starting it but am thinking maybe easier to find the leak if running. 

  7. I just finished replacing cam seals, water pump, and timing belt in my 1998 California 4wd pathfinder 220k miles. Starts, runs, idles, good power. Nothing to suggest timing is off.  I don’t drive this vehicle much these days, but I’ve put 11 miles on since the work and burned through nearly a quarter tank. I also smell fuel in the garage, strongest after the engine is shutdown. I mention the work as it seems I must have done something to create what seems like a fuel leak. Today I spent a good while under the vehicle. Started near the tank and worked my way forward. Tank and area are in good shape. Lines are not rusty.  Under the engine i have an oil drip somewhere, maybe one or both the cam seals or the valve covers. I do not see or smell fuel underneath. On the top side, I’ve looked and looked and see nothing hinting to a fuel leak either.  Any suggestions on where to look, what this could be? Thanks..

  8. Making headway.  My impact wrench arrived which simplified removing the harmonic balancer bolt immensely. I’m now trying to figure how to remove the gear that is behind the balancer, as I want to replace the camshaft seal.. I see no way to remove this. How to?

     

     I think I may have nicked the passenger side cam shaft when removing the seal there. I’m assuming there is nothing that can be done except high grit light sand and praying to ones favorite deity? 

  9. For many years now, my 1998 3.3 4wd pathfinder has been throwing p0420. I’m now replacing a leaking water pump and timing belt which brought me to this forum so once again I’m going to try and figure why this is happening. Hopefully with some help from this forum. Some history. It’s a bit of a tale so hang in there.  I bought this vehicle new in 98 in California. Yes it’s a California car. In about 2011, the distributor failed and it was a real pain to get repaired. I was not in a position to troubleshoot and repair myself at the time. So into the repair shop it went.  The clowns there couldn’t figure out what was wrong. This lead to many parts being changed, swapped, replaced. Ultimately I ended up with new cats, which I didn’t need, a new distributor which I did need and some other items (I think o2s). About three months later I threw the cat codes, reset and didn’t think much. This process Continued but the time between reset grew shorter. I looked into repairing this, even took to a few repair shops. Each time I was told it’s not possible to fix due to age, worn parts, etc etc. My cats were new when this began, so I never suspected them. Also o2s. I replaced the cv boots and after this, the code stayed off nearly a year. It came back with a vengeance and stays on nearly constantly now.  I thought there is a sensor near the rotors that may have been involved but never Figured it out.  I would like to begin getting rid of this code but am not sure where to begin. Any thoughts how to proceed, where to look?.thanks..

  10. Great thread. I’m getting ready to replace my water pump and found this a great resource. I have a 27mm 12 point socket and am wondering should I use this for my crankshaft pulley nut Or... should I get a 6pt? Timing belt was changed 10 years and 100k ago. 

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