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Path88finder

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About Path88finder

  • Birthday 03/18/1992

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1988 Red Nissan Pathfinder
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    16-21
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Year
    1988

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Australia
  • Country
    Australia

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  1. Ive had a bit of a hunt around and by the sounds of it the Calmini arms are not all that good. Has anyone used the arms from 4x4parts? Are there any others that you can recommend. I am running a larger diameter shock and I am finding that at full extension the shock hits the control arm, Im also wanting to correct BJ angle. I have about 2.5 - 3 inches of lift Cheers.
  2. Thanks for the reply cvdloc. I originally wanted to do as you suggested and just swap the doors over. I have access to a set of doors with electric windows but they have relatively bad dings in them, not to mention they are the wrong colour. I just wanted to know if I go and pick these doors up will I be able to mount up the motor and other parts in my manual window doors without modification? I dont mind having to remove the winder handle and locating the up/down switches in the console somewhere instead of on the door arm rests. Thanks again!
  3. Hi, my 88 Pathy has manual windows and was wondering if it was possible to swap over the motor etc from a newer pathy with power windows? As far as I know there were 88 Pathys with power windows so I assume if the door lining was removed it would have the mounts for the motor and slide. Electrical wouldn't be a problem and would just use after market relays and switches.
  4. Ive seen a few Pathys in pictures with loads of flex in the front, big tyres and that are lifted alot more than I seem to be able to lift mine. I have fitted 2" constant load springs in the rear that have actually lifted the rear by 3" I have then wound the torsion bars up so that they sit about 15mm from the upper bump stop. The vehicle has a slight forward rake that I wish to even out. I would prefer not to wind the torsion bars up any more in this condition and was thinking that maybe there was a spacer that would fit between the upper control arm and the ball joint that would allow the bars to be wound up a little more? I am also having trouble with the larger bore shock hitting the upper control arm when the wheel is allowed to fall to full travel, such as when jacked up on the chassis to change a tyre. Is there any solution to this problem? Maybe after market control arms? Also in the pipe dream is to totaly remove the front end suspension and fit a solid axle and coil springs from another vehicle, possibly a Nissan Patrol or similar. Has anyone had any experience with doing something like this?
  5. Thanks for the links. And no, I'm Path88finder from Victoria. Sounds like I have a bit of research to do. What model/year is your Pathy? Looks like its a V6. What model engine is in it? From my understanding there were 88 Pathfinders that were a factory V6.. and this could be an easier swap for the Z24. Im open to all options, even reconditioning its stock Z24 if it will give it a few more berries. Basically Im after some more grunt for towing and Im a bit sick of doing 80ks up a slight hill on the freeway!
  6. I've had a search around on this forum and doesnt seem like there is much info on swapping a z24 engine for a VG30E.. Im sure im not the first one to do this so thought I would ask. I have an 88 Nissan Pathfinder with a 2.4L z24 motor that I wish had a few more horses.. From the looks of it the 92 Pathfinder with the VG30E has the same engine bay/mounts as my 88 Pathy. Will the motor swap require modifications to the engine mounts etc. Also, will the VG30E bolt straight onto the original manual transmission? My other concern is that the original drivetrain (transmission, diffs, axles, driveshaft etc) will not be able to take the extra HP from the VG30E motor. If anyone has any info on this I would love to hear from you. Cheers.
  7. I got the tape measure out and the difference between the rear and front height from the top of the wheel arch to the ground (done on an even surface) is 95mm which is about 2.7in leaving a noticeable difference in the heights. I had a look at where the control arms are sitting in relation to the bump stops and the LCA is about 10mm away from the lower bump stop leaving heaps of clearance with the upper to crank the T bars. As mentioned before to keep the UCA a half inch away from the upper bump stop this should provide me with quite a bit of lift in the front. However I have also heard that if the T bars are cranked too much they will loose the ability to push the wheels down when going over rough terrain leaving the wheels flying around in the air... Is this true and could I find this will happen? As far as the coil springs go "settling in" how much can I expect them to sag and how long should this take? I realise this question is pretty open ended and Im just looking for a rough idea so that I can work out if I need to go for the smaller springs. Thanks for your input.
  8. I have just installed a new set of suspension including front and rear shocks, rear 300kg+ constant load springs and HD torsion bars on my 88 Pathfinder. The torsion bars have been adjusted to match the original front ride height. Once I put the extra constant load coil springs in it sits on so much of an angle I can feel it when I am driving. How much can the torsion bars be cranked so that I can try and match the front to the back height before I start loosing wheel travel and encounter problems with the angle of the CV joints and the drive shaft? I have been told that an increase in the angle of a CV joint can distroy it in a very short time as well as an increased angle in the drive shaft sending vibrations through the car at higher speed. If the torsion bars cannot be cranked so much that it matches the back I may need to change to normal 0-200kg load springs. Will this bring the back down a little? I realise once I adjust the torsion bars I will need a wheel alignment and I will have this done professionally once I am happy with the front height of the vehicle.
  9. Had a quick hunt around on eBay for the maxima alternator, is this the one you're talking about? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Maxima-J30-VG30E-3-0L-Alternator-FREE-Digital-Multi-Meter-Included-/130730448546?_trksid=p3286.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D4%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D1584134737434454412&_qi=RTM839191 I also found an alternator from a 92 Pathfinder that has a v-type pully that looks like the mounts are the same that is 70 amp. Any ideas if this will fit? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ALTERNATOR-NISSAN-NAVARA-PATHFINDER-92-00-2-4LTR-PETROL-/130542958461?_trksid=p3286.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D4%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D1584201068125379263&_qi=RTM839190 Just to clarify that its a 2.4L z24 twin spark Petrol motor that the alternator needs to fit into.
  10. Hi everyone, It all started when I didnt drive my 88 Pathfinder for 3 days and the battery was flat the next time I went to drive it. After charging the battery I discovered using a multimeter that when the car is off there is 3 amps leaving the battery. I have pinned the problem on the alternator as when it is plugged in the meter shows 3 amps and when unplugged the meter reads almost 0 amps. If I unplug the alterntor every time the car is off and plug it back in again when driving the car the battery gets charged perfectly and doesnt loose charge when left for a few days. So I am guessing there is a problem with the alternator not cutting out when the car is off, or alternatively a problem with the cars wiring to the alternator plug. Is there a way of checking the wiring of the car or is the alternator more than likely the problem? If the alternator is the problem are there any alternators that I can buy with a higher amp output over the stock 50 amp one? Possibly from a later model Pathfinder?
  11. Thanks for the replys, so far it doesnt sound too tricky.. I was talking to a mate about the lift blocks and he was saying he did it to a manual car a while back and had to cut a bigger hole in the body of the car for the gear shift and high and low range gear shift sticks to be able to move as he said they may become placed at a different angle once the blocks are in.. does this sound like it may be a problem with the 88 Pathfinder? Leo94, you mentioned the filler neck, does this have enough length in it to be stretched or will it require an additional piece of hose fitted? Nunya, I crawled under my car the other day to see if I could locate what you were talking about but couldnt find anything that fits your description. It sounds important to be able to do this right, are you able to clarify what part of the car this is. All the fluid lines have a coil in them left by the manufacturer so that it as simple as stretching them out a bit. Cheers.
  12. Hey everyone, ill start off with a bit of background information. After purchasing new tyres for my 88 pathfinder I have found that its stock body height doesn't allow enough height for the front tyres to turn without brushing up against the front mud guards. I have been driving around for a while now with the front mud guards taken off but I am sick of rocks and dirt being thrown up onto the side of the car.. not to mention the car is unroadworthy like this. I have another 88 pathfinder that I use for parts, it has a 2" body lift on it.. I am hoping that the extra 2" of body height on my pathfinder will allow me to put the front mud guards back on. Now for my question.... Is there anything I need to watch out for when removing the blocks from the parts car and reinstalling them into my pathfinder? I have noticed a few break lines and things that may need stretching out... The pathfinder I am installing the blocks into is a stock 88 with a Z24 2.4 liter engine with a manual transmission. Let me know if further clarification is required. Thanks in advance!
  13. Went to the 4x4 shop today and picked up 2 boxes of 65mm flare (the type with the wire in the outer edge). All the trucks in the photos look awesome and I cant wait to get mine on. After thinking about it for a little while before launching into putting them on, I cant decide what shape to make the ends of the flare around the wheel arches. super6turbo4, the way you have shaped the flare at the ends looks good from what I can see in your pic. Some close up pics of the front and the rear wheel arches showing the different shapes everyone has gone with at each end of the flare would be a great help. So far I have come up with either a 35-40 degree angle or a rounded shape then a more flat 90 degree angle where it meets the bull bar... Oh and the guy at the shop recommended that I have 3 meters of flare for 2 wheel arches, hope that helps 1994SEV6.
  14. I have a set of mud tires that I am using on my 88 Pathfinder that protrude out past the sides of the body, which is considered unroadworthy. The bloke at the tire shop said I have two options.. buy new tires or get after market flares and put them on my car. My question being, has anyone had any experience with Flexy Flares? Are they hard to install? How do they look? Any advice and pics would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  15. By extractors I mean the individual pipes that replace a standard exhaust manifold. I think sewebster has got the right idea. The comments so far have summed up what I have already been thinking. Increased off road ability decreases on road ability and vice versa. Because I spend most of my time on road and plan to go away on weekends I need to be able to set my Pathfinder up to match how I use it. Sort of a compromise between on road and off road ability. Any suggestions as to which mods to put on and leave off with this in mind?
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