ltsnotme

So did anyone ever measure the size of the rear shock nuts? Going to change out the shocks this weekend and wanted to get new nuts ahead of time.

Oh, yeah, then it probably has a "low pressure sensor that automatically activates compressor if pressure drops" below 5 or 10 psi.

America's Tire representative told me what they use is a combination of patching and plugging. Basically a patch with a plug on it that is inserted from the inside, which is what they had on display in the waiting room. It's mostly meant for round punctures though, not tears like mine, as the plug is round. Either way, if it's larger than 1/4", they're not supposed to repair it. It's been just over two years, so I guess it would've expired either way. I've just read through their road hazard claim initiation procedure though, and it's got so much red tape that I think I would've just purchased a new tire on my own anyway, rather than deal with that.

If your compressor is controlled by a pressure switch, yeah.

No idea what I ran over, but this ended up in my tire: Yeah, America's Tire is where I went (after another shop said no). They obviously said they couldn't fix it either, so I ordered a new tire through them. I don't think a warranty would cover something like this though, would it? I originally bought these from TireRack. But anyway, America's Tire people were pretty helpful, even installed two sets of open-ended lug nuts (because they weren't "comfortable" putting back the 1/4" spacers I had in the front) and didn't charge me for them. Thanks everyone, I'll try to find someone to repair this.

Does anybody think this tire's repairable? For a spare?

Doubt it. Exhaust leak doesn't tick, and it doesn't go away when you're in neutral or park.. Sounds more like a valves/timing related issue.

I can see that spot just looking down between the grill and the radiator support: It's none of my business really, but I would recommend using an enclosure for any electrical parts placed outside of the cabin.

Hm, probably not a good idea to have all those contacts out in the open. Even if rain doesn't get in there, how are you going to cover them up when you have to wash the engine?

^^^Yeah, if you have 4WD, make sure you don't accidentally turn it on, or you'll do a lot of damage to the transfer case.

Correction: you might be pre-wired with a compass/temperature harness behind the glove box. I wasn't, so I got a harness from a junkyard and ran it from the main junction. Either way, here's a how-to; my write-up is there on page 2: http://forums.nicoclub.com/2004-pathfinder-overhead-console-upgrade-t543809.html

There should already be a harness running from where the temperature sensor mounts (in front of the radiator) to the main SMJ harness (behind the fuse block in the driver's footwell). You'll just have to run two wires from the main junction, along the a-pillar, to the compass/temperature panel, plus 12V. And you'll need that temperature sensor. Or at least that's how it was in my '96.

And even if it does blow, it's not really that big of a deal. I drove with a cracked exhaust manifold for about 3 years before I finally got around to fixing it. Even passed all the smog checks along the way.

I had leaky valve cover gaskets. All I had to do was tighten the valve cover bolts, and all the leaks stopped. Might try that first. Also, you don't need to drop the engine to replace the exhaust manifold, or at least not the passenger-side one (which is the one that seems to usually go). I had mine replaced for about $100, plus $55 for the part. Not a difficult job either.

Just don't drive past my house:)