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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1995 SE V6 (WD21-D) 5-speed manual
  • Place of Residence
    Oakland CA
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
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    Oakland California
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    United States
  • Interests
    Machine tools, firearms, motorcycles, electric guitar, fishing & camping

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shaggy's Achievements

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  1. So, a last ditch attempt a day before the deadline, but my work paid off - the PF passed smog with flying colors... notwithstanding the typical PF *minor exhaust manifold leak* (wink-wink). Took a second attempt at a different place, and another $100 smog fee, but I'm happy. So if all goes well, I got another couple years keeping this old bus happily rollin' along. I hate to think about getting a newer truck - they just don't make 'em like this anymore... Thanks guys!
  2. Thanks for reminding me. I thought the oil was OK as I changed it not long ago. It sure gets dark quickly though. Taking her over again this afternoon. I think I'll get through this time. Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I'll post back later with an update.
  3. OK, so I got a can of CRC MAFS cleaner and got the MAF sensor wire sparkly clean. Checked the air filter, which seemed OK. I replaced the old O2 sensor with a new Denso one. Found and patched up a nickel-sized hole in the muffler. I can't easily get to the driver side exhaust manifold, but I did get the rusted-on heat shield out of the way enough to tighten down one loose nut, which helped quite a bit in making the leak less obvious. I poured a bottle of Lucas injector cleaner in with a half tank of gas and will do a few hard freeway miles over the weekend before I take her in again for another try. Tryin' to think of anything else that might help... PS - This is promising. There's a very noticeable increase in power and throttle response immediately following the O2 sensor replacement.
  4. Thanks very much! I remember about the MAF now, it's been a few years. Will check it out.
  5. Hi guys... My '95 SE almost got through smog check (CA) today. Only the low speed (15mph) NO check failed, reading higher than usual Nitrous Oxide (NO) levels (for this vehicle). All other checks passed. I have a second try before DMV deadline next week and would really appreciate your suggestions. A few particulars: There's a slight leak at the driver's side exhaust manifold, but it's been that way through all previous smog checks and passed OK. I keep it as tight as possible, and don't think it would have caused this fail. I know that high NO is supposed to be from overheated combustion, caused most likely from a too lean mixture. So I wonder if the ECU is being wrongly informed by a bad sensor. MAP/ air temp sensor reading too high? The oxygen sensor was replaced 5 years ago, don't know if that's worth a try(?), as they're not cheap. The plugs probably should be replaced, and could maybe make a difference. Air filter too, perhaps. And maybe a long hard freeway run before taking it in again... Any other ideas would be welcome Thanks! Dave
  6. Hi there. I've replaced the starter twice on my '95. Each time the problem was hesitant solenoid action, and each time a new starter and solenoid 'fixed' it for a couple years or so. I'm wondering if a worn ignition switch was part of the problem, as I've always had to give the key a pretty energetic twist to get it to contact. Lately it's been completely unresponsive after sitting overnight, and requires five or six tries to get it to make contact. So far I've been lucky, but I'm not holding my breath. I'm lazy, I'll admit. Fault tracing old wiring and connectors drives me nuts. It only needs one bad connection somewhere. My '95 has been a great vehicle, but has too many electrical gremlins these days. I'm preparing myself for another used vehicle, but not sure what it'll be. I wish you as good luck with yours as I've (so far) had with mine.
  7. Thanks Mr. R! 8>] It's funny when your truck starts playing tricks -- yesterday my Pathy locked me out -- w/ the key in the ignition -- haha! It's obviously got a sense of humor (it knows I keep a spare key under the chassis). Luckily I am pretty forgiving. I just wish someone would hurry up with that Time Machine -so I could have a brand-new '95 SE 8>}
  8. Thanks, yeah they do drive me nuts at times. I hope yours are fixable.
  9. Hi, thanks. If I remove /bypass or clobber the little black box under the seat, will that take out the alarm system altogether? Mine still works (when it works) as a deterrent. (Not worried about remote entry, that was busted when I got vehicle.)
  10. Hi -- Mine's a '95 SE, and has all kinds of electrical gremlins. Now and then the security system takes on a life of it's own, locking the doors as I'm trying to get in (made worse by the fact of a jimmied driver's side lock and a broken latch, so I have to enter from the passenger side -- or the rear hatch, and break my back getting into the driver's seat from behind). Also, the alarm arms itself, whether turned on or off. And was going off by itself at all hours to the point I had to disconnect both the siren and the horns. Oh, and yeah the ignition switch is plumb worn out, and requires a heavy hand to make electrical contact, but she usually starts just fine... except when due for a new starter (replaced two times now, in 4-5 years, not too big a deal once you know how). I'm allergic to working with wiring (or anything much else) under the dash, so my technique is basically just cursing and keeping my fingers crossed until it behaves. Sorry, I know that's not much help at all. Except for maybe the fingers-crossing bit(?) Notwithstanding said weird glitches, I drive this vehicle every morning and every evening to and from my shop, with zero actual problems about 99% of the time 8>] Good Luck! (to both of us) --Dave
  11. Thanks for your input. The 'converter' that is part of the wiring kit I just bought is, from what I've read, a passive device (brief description below) Not sure if it's switching or current-limiting, but I expect it's fused. CURT® 55353 - T-Connector Nissan Pathfinder 1995, T-Connector (55353) by CURT®. 3-wire System, Location: S1/S2. Provides a 4-way flat connector for specific Nissan trucks. This provides all you need to connect a trailer to the tow vehicle. More details on https://www.carid.com
  12. Actually, if anyone else is interested, I looked around and found a complete Curt Class 3 towbar setup for my '95 Pathy, including Curt wiring harness, for just over $200 and free shipping, at CARiD.com. Still appreciate the initial link though, it gave me a starting point PS -- it actually cost a bit more than I thought. Shipping was reasonable but not free, and then tax, of course. Still, pretty reasonable at $268 total, including two (high and low) ball carriers. --cheers
  13. Wow, thanks -- really appreciate it! I'll give that one a go.
  14. Hi guys. Excuse my ignorance, this feels like something I oughta know already. Can anyone tell me, does my '95 Pathy wiring have a trailer hitch wiring connector installed as part of the stock wiring loom? I looked around under the rear bumper, but couldn't see anything like a spare connector or loose end. If it doesn't, what is the normal procedure? --thanks very much! Dave
  15. PS--Code 34 still indicating detonation sensor circuit malfunction. It's been that way for a couple years and as usual it doesn't seem to affect anything, so I'm ignoring it. Timing seems good @ 15-deg BTDC at 750 rpm. Dave
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