BrianD

Have you found a solution to yer prolm yet?

Finally had some time (and parts) so I pulled the pan today. It was absolutely clean with NO steel shavings in it. The magnet lukd like it has 1/16th" of black grease on it. I poked around and the particles kinda stood straight up. I was expecting to see something wrong Still looking for answers to why it won't shift into 4th gear. The trans fluid looked PURPLE! What the..? Any suggestions on what I shud do next?

Yes - pls see my post TRANSMISSION WOES - thanx Sorry - I just saw this now...this particular email went into my junk folder for some reason..just this one? WT?!!

I emailed him on his YouTube channel twice under this video - no response as of yet - Thanx

UPDATE - ya well. It worked yesterday but not today. Damn! So WHY doesn't it shift today then? The temp gauge on the dash showed cold and didn't move till over 2 km and It's 70 degrees outside. Drove it at 100 km for 9 km - it never shifted into OD once. turned around - drove another 9 - 10 km this time 100 to 120 km - and it still didn't shift into OD. It's hard reading the dipstick - can't clearly tell if I have too much fluid in it. Someone mentioned it CUD be the thermostat and/ or a temp sensor on the thermostat housing. It least it tried to shift into OD before the flush and was MUCH better even yesterday. There's no CEL either. Your suggestions?

Thanx for that. I did the same. I went to pick up my filter and gasket yesterday and they didn't arrive. I went forward anyway cause it's the only time I cud do it. So I didn't drop the pan either. Pumped out the the trans by disconnecting the driver side hose from the rad. Connected a clear hose to it and started the engine. The fluid pumps out FAST and it was kinda purple brown in colour. Did a re-connect - Added 3 litres trans fluid and a litre of Sea Foam Trans Tune - started it and shifted slowly thru all the gears for 3 - 4 minutes ..drained it again and it was almost black at 1st...and then purple and then reddish. There was a weird high pitched zzzip sound - low to high in pitch -when shifting into 1st a few times.? Added a bottle of LUCAS trans fix and a few more litres. Did a test drive. It was acting ..differently. Came home and checked the level - added more fluid. Test drive - shifted into OD at slow speed before even 2 kms. Got on the highway and after jumping back and forth between 3 & 4 a few times it stayed locked up in OD and now shifts properly. It seems like it's a win for around $120. I used 8 litres of Fluid $64 - 1 can of Sea Foam $15 - 1 container of Lucas Trans Fix $20 and a Plastic catch container. $20 Gotta drive it today and see if it's still OK when it's cold. Thanx 4 yer help!

I'm getting a new filter and gasket today & gonna do a semi flush. But FIRST.. I'm going to disconnect the trans cooler line at the rad and use the power of the engine to pump out the fluid. I'll drop the pan and see what's inside before adding any new fluid. If it's full of chunks of steel it'll go to the transmission shop and I'll return all the stuff I already bought yesterday. If not, I'll install the new filter and gasket and reinstall the pan and continue with flushing with the 8 litres of Dexron 3 Mercron fluid. It seems to me like the least expensive, possible fix before spending any real $$$. I looked for the trans cooler and did not find it where it supposed to be in the FSM. The lines only go into the bottom of the rad. Yer thots?

Thanx Coung - my temp gauge on the dash reads "normal" ..maybe even on the cool end.. I looked for the thermostat last night - Cudn't even Find IT! what the ...? But I did have a look at the temp sensor near the distributor, on the coolant hose housing, cleaned it and used some electrical contact goo on it. I haven't driven it yet since but it was corroded and very dirty. It shifted so hard into second the other day while turning it chirped the tire! 1st time ever. Cudda been a fluke in the hot sun. Lukd underneath - no leaks. I watched this video. This guy is pretty amazing. IMO. I hope I DON"T have this happen. So I'm driving the wife's little corolla till I can make a plan and get some answers B4 spending a ton of $$. I shudda mentioned - I got this truck for $500 - 8 yrs ago - never ever changed the fluid ( I know I know) and it's at 335,000 kms - 210,000 miles. It's gotta trans cooler as well. Thinking I shud drop the pan..replace the fluid and filter and button it up 1st , before taking it to a transmission shop? You think I need a trans flush and not just a drain? Wud it make any difference or is it waste of $ to do this without professional help? The truck is in ruff shape but still werx great...and I like keeping it on the road to rub it in the face of all ppl driving all that high end, high dollar cars and trucks...even btr when I drive by and their cars are on the tow hook. The looks I get are priceless. Thanx guys

tHANX a lot! i WILL LOOK INTO THAT! oops caps

My 98 Pathy trans started acting up. The fluid lux fine. I don't get over drive till it's really hot. When on the hiway it shifts between 3rd and over drive - ...a LOT .. and often..with no hills in sight. Mine has been acting weird over the last few years - it takes more and more and more time to shift into overdrive every winter. Now this. I'm thinking it's a Trans fluid temp sensor? Yer thots?...and if so..where do I find it? If NOT..what shud I be looking at? If I've gotta pull the trans pan, what filter and oil shud I be buying? The CEL came on - I checked for codes and it's the same Evap 1448 and ??? another one, for years now, and so it's got nuthin' to do with the trans prolm. Any advice, tips or trix will be appreciated. Thanx Brian

I wish someone had answered your question - Cause I need to know too! I don't get over drive till it's really hot. When on the hiway it shifts between 3rd and over drive - ...a LOT with no hills in sight. Mine has been acting weird over the last few years - it takes more and more and more time to shift into overdrive every winter. Now this. Lemme know if U get an answer. Cheers

I GOT IT FIXED! WOO HOO! Thanx everyone for your help! It actually WAS the LSV that was the cause. I took it to my buddy's place and when we started the bleed process he pumped the brake pedal REALLY fast. I mean, just about as fast as you can. I asked "Why are you doing it like that?" He said crack the bleeder and look. To my surprise it was like a milkshake with a gozillion bubbles. He said if U pump it slowish it won't collect the air...which kinda makes sense right? Doing a super fast pedal pump will definitely show you if U have air in the system if U have clear drain tube on your bleeder screw. I told him about the bleeder screw on the LSV. I myself cud NOT get a wrench on it here but after trying 3 - 4 different size wrenches, he got a 5/16" to fit only ONE of the 3 possible positions on that screw with a shorty short open end wrench. I tried again to heat the screw with my torch but I was starting everything on fire. So we used his MAP & oxygen torch with a VERY Hot mini flame - the bleeder screw turned orange fast! and he got it loose but cudn't get any size the wrench on it again to get it looser. We cooled it off and turned it looser (with great difficulty) with my fingers then pressed HARD on the pedal to clear the dirt out of the bleeder( there was no rubber dust cap on it for years) until we got a clear stream of fluid out of it and FINALLY got a hard pedal. We bled the rears and fronts again and I drank heavily when I got home and cleaned up the mess in the truck, garage and shed...and myself. We somehow broke the plastic catch bottle and I didn't know I was laying in a pool of brake fluid ffs! Drove it around today and it werx great. I got a new battery while I was out ( been cranking fairly slowly after 6 years) and installed that. Thanx again guys for your time and effort on my behalf...much appreciated!

HAAAAHHAHAHA! That's genius! thanx!

Thanx again for taking the time to post. I'll post my findings at the bottom. I GOT IT FIXED!

I don't know - I borrowed it from my mechanic buddy - it's pretty old and dirty..I cudn't tell. I didn't end up using it. Solved my prolm -fixed!

Questions: 1. What's the difference between a quote and multiquote? 2. Do you think it's worth the trbl to replace the LSV with a used one? I found an Auto Recycler near here called You Pull It. .. ( the description says it all)..waiting to see if they've got an LSV from one of their 2 yards. http://www.upullit.ca/elmira.php and how much $$$ if I pull it ..woah - ( that didn't sound right) haha ooooor.. 3. Do U think I can free up my rusted one? I sure it's not working from the rust. If I can remove it without busting off any bolts I can fix the bleeder while I'm at it. It's a PITA to do but I can't beg, borrow or steal a pneumatic bleeder anywhere so far except for on line from the USA. They start at $130.00 in my city...not $30. I'm not spending that for one use. 4. When are they switching to new servers? 5. Will the new servers make it possible to post pix and video easier? If I didn't have to jump thru 10 flaming hoops to post a picture or two I'd do that. I once spent over an hour with a post just to have it all dis-appear when I tried posting. 6. Cheers?

Did you ever remove the LSV and replace it with a prop valve? If so, which flavour did U purchase? Mine is also fookd. Thanx

Awesome - thank you! - that makes a lot of sense. but U said U sealed the MC - how? with something other than the resv cap? I have a fresh quart sitting here ready to go - the truck is almost useless with brakes like these. I'll see if I can get one locally today so I can bleed tomorrow. Cheers and thanx again.

Which brand/ type vacuum pump did U use? Hand pump operated type.... electric? Just curious as to which one werx best.

OOps - to me, it lux like the RR is the longer brake line altho, I tried it multiple different ways the last 10 f****n times. Your thots? Thanx

UPDATE - we bled the brakes again with my nephew( didn't know if wifey was doon it correctly) then started it - the brake pedal is still very low but the brakes actually worked when I put it in gear. Took it down the street and hit the brakes 4 - 5x - it activated the ABS and the tires wud skid and then release just like they're supposed to. No leaks & the reservoir is full. I guess it's GOTTA be the damn LSV! How do mean U sealed the MC - how? With what? I want this finally FIXED or I'll need a sponsorship for Dot 3 brake fluid.. I'll be working on possibly borrowing a vacuum bleeder asap. It shud be a lot easier sliding around on my driveway with the ice out there. Thanx very much for taking the time to reply on my behalf. Cheers

Thanx for the reply. The Diaphragm doesn't touch the fluid even when the resv is full. That LSV! I guess I'll try to get the rusted nutz & bolts removed from that. Someone suggested I loosen the highest brake line on the LSV and gravity bleed it. It's raining an blowing like **** out there. I'll try and talk myself into doon it guess. I don't know what else to do so..ya. Thanx man.

I did keep filling the reservoir full while bleeding..always kept checking...did that...but when bleeding the system there's a lot of fluid being pumped out/ down, so if it's sealed 100% it's not going to want to drain out to the bleeder valves right? That's what caused that diaphragm thing..I bled the system a LOT.. we used a lot of fluid. Cheers

A friend of mine used to work with a mechanic said they had this happen B4..about 20yrs ago. He said, " When the system has gone dry it doesn't bleed like normal. If the reservoir empties you just start again but all bleeders need to be open at the same time and the reservoir topped up as it bleeds ". I Nvr heard of this B4 - I don't have time to work on it anymore today but I will try this when I get more clear rubber tubing and make some catch bottles...but I'm still open to suggestions. I forgot to add that I checked the 7.5 amp ABS fuse in the dash and it was also good.

Thanx - yes I bled all 4 corners multiple times. I have NO brakes but I suppose I cud try doon that on my dead end/ no exit street. cheers