Tad

I have over 40K with manual hubs on the Q since 2011, you just keep it in 2WD mode. If I have not been wheeling it recently I go find some loose dirt area and lock them in. Then I run it through all the modes while doing some figure eight turns, this is just to keep everything lubed up. The only issue I have had (I've documented it here and no one seems to be able to explain it) is that occasionally the 4WD light will come on when on the highway. Others have commented that they have observed the same thing. It's not every time. Some times it's after 15 miles. Some times it's after 150 miles. Some times it does not come on at all. It sort of freaked me out initially but I have checked. It's not engaged, nothing is locking up. It's just weird that way.

Sorry for the hit but I appreciate the pic of the front flare damage & removal. Mine are getting really brittle in the AZ sun. I'm pretty committed to removing all of them this winter along with the bumpers and some additional fender trimming. One of the other things I have always disliked about our Q are the running boards. It's a non-functional step because it's too close to the door opening. That looks way better with them removed.

Nice looking Q! We are just waiting for it to cool off a little here in Tucson before we remove all the exterior plastic and build some real bumpers for ours.

I read this and several other threads related to it, I can only tell you our experience. 2000 QX4 we bought in July of 2011 with 180K on the clock. In June of 2012 (189K) we did the OME lift, struts, shocks and Warn Premium hubs. Just clicked past 222,222 this week so we have about 33K with the manual hubs. Our experience has been consistent. The 4WD light never flashes and never comes on during regular city driving. During highway driving the light will come on (never flashes). Sometimes it's after 5-10 miles, sometimes 70 miles, a few times it has taken several hundred miles. It always resets to 2WD when the ignition is turned off. The transfer case works flawlessly when we lock the hubs and select Auto, 4Hi or 4Lo. The only things we do for maintenance are: Change the fluid about every 3 oil changes, so about every 10K miles. About every 4-6 weeks take it out in the dirt, lock hubs and drive some figure 8's in both 4Hi and 4Lo for about 10 minutes. Then I leave it in Auto until the next day when I switch back to 2WD and unlock the hubs. I can't tell you that's the solution or proper procedure and I would still like to swap in a manual case someday. It's just how we chose to approach this. The figure 8 thing is an old jeep trick for keeping PT axle joints lubed, probably not even applicable to CV's.

Blackhawk Canyon, Southwestern NM

Love the Q pic's.

We did the OME HD front/MD rear in the driveway in an afternoon. Had struts and springs prepped in advance so I think we were down for a day or so. I'm not a big fan of those bar type strut compressors so we used a buddies shop for about 1/2 hour with his wall mounted cage compressor. Worse snag we hit was replacing sway bar links that were trashed. Bolts needed to be cut off. But that part is optional at the strut install point it's just easier to do with the strut not installed. We came back and did front shafts about a year later.

We take our QX4 from the desert floor at 2,500' to Ouray, CO and do passes that are typically between 10-13K' and it never skips a beat. I would think it's not altitude unless you have a sensor that is not working correctly.

2000 QX4 Build Date 8/99 Has pass door key cylinder.

Did not get in until later last night. All the OME springs have sagged a bit over the two years they have been on. Its different at all four corners but not more than 3/8" as an average. If you take into account tire wear (we have over 20K miles in this two year period) I'd say that's pretty good for a coil spring rig this heavy. I would get the camber bolts and get 4 of them. I will install my own and set the camber with an angle finder since these tires are about 1/2 way done and getting pretty chunked. When it's time to replace the tires sometime next year they will be in place for a shop to do it properly.

We have the HD fronts and I would do it again. Here is the link with the original measurements: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33480-2k-qx4-lift/ I know it has sagged a bit and it's actually only been a little over two years. We do wheel it and I will actually do some pretty aggressive stuff, it's a tough rig despite the looks. I tell you what ( and for my own interest also), I will get it up on the same slab where I took the pre and post lift measurements when I get back this morning and we'll see just how much. You can see in the original lift pic's it still had a bit of rake to the front after the lift. I think that is the thing I dislike the most about these things but some of that is simply the body shape.

We have pretty much the same setup except using Rancho 5000's in the rear on a 2000 QX4. It's been a little over 3 years, the ride is still quite a bit firmer than stock although I know the front has sagged a little. I still need to measure this but am really wrapped into another 4x4 project at the moment. I'm also pretty sure we will be adding the 1" spacer when I get time to build bumpers and add my M8000 winch to the front. Anyway, we had no issues with the struts topping out but you should also get the camber bolts. Things looked great but the tire wear started showing up at about 6-7000 miles.

If you are going after the timing belt and water pump I would replace all the related stuff. We used this kit below and have put 30K on it in 3 years with no issues. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Timing-Belt-Kit-Infiniti-QX4-1997-1998-1999-2000-3-3L-Tensioner-Water-Pump-/360792602159?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5400ea362f

Very Nice!

Yes. It's actually very rare. First year 1974 Z Code Cherokee S, #68 off the assembly line in June of 1973. Jeep did not differentiate sequentially between Wagoneers, Trucks and Cherokee's at that point so it could be much lower than #68. It's undergoing a full restoration with the exception of a SOA/SF lift and some interior upgrades for comfort. It's what I do for a living.

Tow bar. Strap was just to yank it out of the field where it had sat for a decade.

Other than some local trails and camping the last time we really put the Q to work was to save this first year Cherokee that I found on a ranch in NM. It's a little sketchy flat towing something that long but it's actually lighter than the Q. We made the 40+ mile tow back to my Place in Silver City with ease.

We did the Warn hubs almost immediately (along with lift, tires, etc) after buy the Q so we can't compare milage. These rigs are not exactly light to start with so we don't expect great milage, just comfort and great scenery. We do still get the goofy 4WD indicator light thing but it has not hurt anything that we can tell.

Ours was crazy tight in there also. Had to use the 3' breaker bar.

Agreed! One of the things I really like about the Q is that after 5-6 hours on the interstate I am not deaf like I am in the jeep.

I need to re-measure our OME lift (HD fronts, MD rears). We are coming up on two years so I am sure it has settled in a bit.

Nice looking Q. Love the Tri-Spoke rims on these.

I am not sure about your 2004 Nissan Transfer Case and how it works but I do know from some >bang head< personal experience that running different sized tires with transfer cases that use viscous couplers or clutch packs that you can do serious damage to them, damage that will sometimes show up down the road. I would not sign off on anything until the tire shop paid for an inspection at a reputable garage (or Nissan) to determine if any damage has occurred. If it has done damage they need to be held accountable for your loss.

OME does not make a HD/stiff rear coil, just the MD version. Part Numbers: MD Rear 922 HD Front 928 That sounds like a lot to tow. Overall weight and tongue weight play a large roll in that and of course how far and what type of terrain.

We did the OME springs from rocky Road, HD front and MD rear. Our fronts were really sagging badly. We got 2.5" front and 2.25" rear. It's been almost two years now and they have maintained that height.