msavides

I used 3m marine grade adheasive and filled in where it shrunk. once dried I trimmed it to match the molding where it shrunk with a razer blade. looks good and cant really tell

these things are all over on ebay new. been eying a black tinted one. still have not bought it yet

There is a cluster on Ebay right now for $75. I normally see them starting from $100 and up

My next step since my speedometer is working but still getting code 14, is to check continuity between pin 32 on the ECCM harness with Pin 7 on the instument cluster harness. if that is good I have no idea what else to try. voltage meter at harbour freight is under $5. and well worth having. I bought 5 of them as I always keep misplaceing them.

Thanks I just found it. It was on Nicoclub forum

Thanks for the pic. I am missing the bottom L bracket that mounts to the floor. The bracket that uses the push clips is still on it. I will have to find one the next time I am at a bone yard. The wd21s are drying up around here. There was only one in the last Pick n Pull i went to, it is 60 miles away so I don't get out there much. No Pick N pulls around me.

So the guy I bought the cluster from gave me a $25 refund for the non working trip gauge. (lcd was not wokring) I tore it apart and swapped just the speedometer from his into my cluster. and everything appeared to be working. speedometer (BTW the Tach stopped working because I forgot to tighten those screws DUH) However, I was still getting a Check engine light. Sure enough it was code 14. so I put the original VSS back in. It normally gave a CEL at the 3rd gear shift. I drove it around the block for a few bocks and it did not come back on. I will check with the othwer half to seee if it gave a CEL on her way to work this morning. Also the Odemeter and trip meter does not change. The VSS i ordered off of Ebay said it was a 19 tooth. My Gear on the original was blue and from my reading that indicates that it is a 18 tooth. I would not think the gear would make a difference. only about 2 MPH from my testing. But it should not have thrown a CEL because of that. My thought is that the connections or wires from the Speedometer to the ECCM are at fault. I will wait to see if it does it again before I pronounce the CEL is fixed. Not sure if the odometer/trip work off the speedometer wires or the wires coming back from the ECCM. BTW I seem to remember seeing the factory service manuals on this site, I don't beleive they are still available. I thought Nissan made whoever was hosting them take them down. If anyone Knows the location where I can get the 1994 service manual, please PM me the link.

I mean the guy bypassed the ignition switch and ran a wire all the way to the starter, and hooked up a push button to crank the starter. I had to yank the wires out and fix the starter relay and hook it back up with the factory wiring. It is starting to look like a decent vehicle, I know got to figure out how to fix all the screw holes in all the plastic trim peices he screwed into. trying to find a drivers side parking brake cable for rear disc is impossible. the guy cut the cables and used cable u bolts to tie the cables together. That ofcourse did not work. he spliced in the headlight socket to wire up his fog lamps and melted the bulb socket. gotta fix that too

I tore apart my cluster. not a spec of corrosion, the circuit board on the speedo is perfect, i cleaned evreything and put it back together again and the speedometer still does not work and now the tach stopped working. anyways got the ebay cluster today. I put it in and speedometer is now working. the trip display is not working though. kinda pissed cause I spent $100 on this cluster. Trip display worked on my old one. I may tear it apart and swap inthe trip from my old one to get it working, but I am afraid of breaking the speedometer by taking it apart.

This is becoming a lot of work Spent the last weekend reversing all the band-aids and rigging the previous owners have done to this vehicle. removed 2 inches of silicone from rear cargo area windows, heated the warped window trim and got it to sit back flush, sealed with black marine grade adheasive. removed the 30 + screws that were used to incorrectly hold things on. removed the 15 + wirenuts under the hood used to run wiring and rig up ignition system Removed vinyl sagging plastic headliner peice and cleaned and painted and reattached. removed 6 layers of paint used on the lego rim hub caps, repainted. fixed cigarette burns in seats, then put seat covers on them removed lights from bumper. replaced grill that they notched to fix lights on bumper vacuumed and steam cleaned carpet and seats painted coroded battery tray changed transmission fluid and engine oil doing complete front end rebuild this weekend: brakes, rotors, ball joints, controll arm bushings, bearings, manual locking hubs, shocks, folowing weekend: installing new stereo and speakers, alarm system , fix door locks, speedometer replacement, recover door panels.

Ordered a new cluster from ebay. I will let you know if that fixes mine.

i found the programing instuctions for the remote, but I think I will replace it with an after market remote start pager unit. I don't have much faith in the relibility of factory nissan alarms. I also noticed that the ABS module is located under the drivers seat as well. it was screwed to a wood block. I know this was not factory and was wondering how it was mounted from factory. I think I am missing a bracket under the seat to mount the abs module to.

II was wonderin about the factory alarm system . is it itegrated with the door locks. Has anyone removed the factory alarm and put in an aftermarket? were all the connectors for the factory alarm usable for the aftermarket alarm. I know on my 91 se, the alarm was just the rocker switch with not remote. This one uses a remote, However I did not get it with the car. was wondering if it is worth trying to find a remote and see if the factory one works., What is the likelyhood of the factory alarm still being funtional. My first thought is to just replace it with an aftermarket. Just wondering if it is going to be like chasing down wires in the kick panel and the column like it was with moy other pathfinders or if most of the wires will be under the drivers seat with the factory module.,

Thank you .. It was there. I am really only used to 90-91 pathfinders where it is a separate switch. However looks like there is one more thing to work on, as the rear wiper is not moving. When I put spin the switch I hear a click back there but not wiper blade. Perhaps the motor is bad.

JUst Bought a 1994 SE to go along with 1990 XE and 1991 SE I cannot find the rear wiper switch. can anyone verify its location.

It is the interrior temp sensor tube. it has a little fan in there that draws air from the cabin so it can get a reading. it is used when you put you ac or heater in the auto position. it will cycle your fan up or down as the temp you set is reached.

mine was in there pretty good as well. I used a wide flat screwdriver and gentley pried up behend the ear with the bolt hole. at first it would not budge. I then lightly tapped on the spped sensor with a hammer. the next time I pried it popped right out. I was afraid I would break the ear off. I am going to take the cluster off this weekend and see if there is a bad ground on the speedo gauge and possibly put a meter on the wires going to the speedo gauge.

I am going through this with a newly aquired 1994 SE. Ordered speed sensor. swapped it out. still not fixed. I noticed that the speedometer is all over the place. when unplugging and plugging in the sensor. I beleive the speedometer is my isue. I read that if you hook up a meter to the speed sensor it should show dc volts when spun. 1volt for every 10mph.

I just did the tortion bar crank to raise 2". I did eventually get sway away Tbars. I had to lower it for the aftermarket shafts. when I put my oem shafts back in, I raised it back up again. have not had an issue since.

with a lifted front end, I found that the aftermarket cv axles bound up. this could be because the OEM axles were worn in before I lifted the front suspension. I ended up breaking one of new new CSP axles shortly after replaceing it. I saved my oem axles and put new boots on them so I was able to put them back in. the broken axle also took out one of my warn premuim hubs. the hubs cost over twice the price of the axle. keep this in mind if you have a frnt suspension lift. you may have to lower it until the axles get a bit of wear on them and can move freely without binding at the lifted angles. this was on a WD21, not sure if there is much difference on the R50

There are less and less of our vehicles on the road everyday. parts houses are only going to carry parts for the most popular cars. they only have so much stock room. I have also noticed after market parts going out of stock online, and the prices doubling. the warn manual locking hub are now $300 for the wd21. i bought mine for $130 10 years ago. and spares for $160 5 years ago. less and less vehicles at the junkyard as well.

mine was code 45.

I had this problem when I lived in California. I replaced injectors, Replaced the ECU, Tried everything. sometimes it would take 3 smog attempts. It was hit and miss after I cleared the check engine light when it would do it again. I would clear the code take it in for a smog and keep my fingers crossed it woud pass. The last time I took it in to get smogged the check engine light stayed off until the end. It had already passed on the machine so the Smog tech guy warned me that I needed to get this fixed. The funny thing is I moved to oregon and I have not needed to get it smogged here, since it is smog exempt here. But the Check engine light has not come on once after fueling up with Oregon gas. I have been here over 4 years. I am wondering if this has more to do with what they put in the Fuel in california than the failed injector. The error code I got was some kind of injector curcuit. It translated to a partially clogged Injector. (iregular spray pattern) It would not burn completly and trigger the error somehow.

Unfortunately, nobody wants to risk the liability of making or drilling out the adjuster I wish it was on the inner tie rod side that way I could just cut and split the tie rod with a cutting tool to release the Adjuster, But Alas it is on the outer Female side of the adjuster. It is on there so good that I have used Heat, cold, Broke a 10" bench Vise trying to use a 10 foot cheater bar on the end of a wrench. (That is when I gave up) Thanks for the info, I just ordered the HD adjusters from 4x4parts. Read that the Calmini adjusters are too long for the stock TREs. Beside they probably don't have those in stock.

I have not been around the forums too much lately. My 91 Pathfinder has just been sitting in the garage due to alignment woes. I bought a calmini HD steering kit years ago. A couple years ago I took my truck to the alignment shop and they said they could not adjust the Tie rods because the adjuster was seized. I took it home and preceded to tear it apart. I tried everything to get this adjuster off the outer TRE. It will not budge, it is like it is welded on. I Hopped on Calmini's web site and ordered an adjuster for $90. It is now over 2 years later and I still have not got my adjuster. I have called them about 30 times and all I get is we are looking for someone to machine them it will be a couple of weeks. I The other day I decided to look into alternatives. The problem is the Stock inner TRE are way too small .511 - .59. they will not wedge in. Calmini's adjuster is a male thread at m14-1.5 (inner) to Female M16-1.5 (outer) Nothing like that that I can find. The Calmini Inners TRE are off a 2004 xterra (Wedge is .708) I could not find any matching M16 Inner TRE that has a .708 wedge. I imagine that is why Calmini made the Adjuster to M14. After spending 3 hours Looking on Moog's website I think I found the combination that will work. It is using those same Calmini Inner TRE with the Same Xterra Adjusters. Male to Male M14-1.5 to a Moog-ES3413 Here is what I came up with Outer TRE Moog-ES3412 3.7" M14-1.5 Female wedge .511 - .59 replacing stock TRE Stock outer Moog-ES3002r 5.12" m16-1.5r Male wedge .521 - .59 Adjuster Moog-ES3090S 6.63" M14-1.5 Male to Male Replacing Calmini custom Adjuster M14-1.5 Male to M16-1.5 Female Inner TRE Moog-ES3660 3.7" M14-1.5 Female Wedge .708 Same as Calmini Inner TRE I am concerned about Weakening My steering. Although I already had half my Steering reduced from M16 to M14 Again, The 2004 Xterra TRE assemblies are stock like this M-14 to M-14 to M-14. Does anyone know of Xterra steering being weaker that WD-21's steering? If anyone is interested, I will post pics of the assembly when I get it and install it.