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msavides

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msavides last won the day on August 23 2014

msavides had the most liked content!

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About msavides

  • Rank
    NPORA Old-Timer
  • Birthday 10/14/1972

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1991 Nissan pathfinder MT 4X4
  • Place of Residence
    White City, Or
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Skilled/Experienced Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1991

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    White City, Or
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

6,049 profile views
  1. I have been trying to find the Air conditioning line that goes from the heater box to the Receiver/Dryer. I have not been able to find a trace of it anywhere on the webs I am coming to the conclusion that I am going to have to have one custom built. If I do I want it made out of rubber A/C hose. I believe they call this a liquid line. I have found a few places that will custom build one online, however I am having a hard time identifying the type and size of the connectors on the ends. I believe they call it a swivel type end and it is female. It has a spot on it to put an o-ring on it. I am not sure it there are standard threads for A/c or it they have metric or Standard threads. I can post some pictures of the ends. From my testing I know that both ends are the same Female swivel, but not sure on the size or thread. I have tried looking up the receiver/dryer specs to try and get some clues on the size and thread, but not having much luck. My other thought was to take the line into a automotive shop that works on A/C lines to see if they can make me one, Just not sure if there are any placed around here that do that kind of work. Any input or similar experiences would be extreamly helpful. Thanks
  2. New part needed. Air conditioning line that runs from the expansion valve to the receiver/dryer. mine has a hole in it right at the bend before it goes into the receiver dryer.
  3. Material wise is was really cheap. If I factor in my hourly wage for the time I spent on it. Then I paid way too much for it. But If I bought the factory one at $120 I still would have got fake leather. I am debating on whether to make another one with my left over leather once I get the sewing machine fixed.
  4. I went to the leather shop and bought some scrap finished leather. Grand Total $6.99 I ripped the seams on the old boot and made a template and cut all the pieces out of the new leather (I used about half the leather I bought) I dug out the sewing machine. I had some issues with it since it had not been used in years. (time to have it serviced I guess) I ended up having to sew most of it by hand. I am not that great at hand sewing, but I figured that even with some messed up stitches it has to look better than the ripped up one that was on there. Here is the almost finished project. Just have to get some new snaps and put them on the boot and insert the metal rod and sew it up Not too bad. I may redo my stitches once I get the sewing machine serviced. The stitches I made with the sewing machine are prefect.
  5. I coming to that realization that the part I need will be hard to find. I want to keep my Pathfinder for as long as I can So I posed this question to give me insight to what parts are the hardest to come by. so I can keep an eye out for them, Knowing that I will probably eventually need them . I am also thinking of creating another Thread with Requesting substitutions that people have used instead of overpriced or rare parts. I bought a rubber boot for a jeep that I used for the the 4x4 shifter ( the one that goes under the leather boot) It fit pretty good after I glued the metal trim onto the boot. I bolted in on just like the original one. If you get a chance post up a pic of the boot. I have not heard back from Adam. He is probably busy. If something does not come up I am probably going to pick up some scrap leather and sew one up myself. The one I have is in pretty bad shape, But I have managed to rip the seams and get it to the point where I can us it at a pattern. The local leather shop has scrap leather for $5 a pound that I can pick through to find pieces that are the right size and shape.
  6. I believe you can use the adhesive That they use to glue the rear view mirror wedged on glass. they sell it at any auto parts store. I had to buy the little piece that the sunshade rests on. (it actually screws on) Was able to find one from a Nissan dealer for 7 bucks
  7. when it was sold to me they said the stereo did not work. it was obvious why, the foam filled in just about every vent in the stereo, I am sure it overheated. went straight into the trash
  8. I found the sunroof seal for the rubber trim on Ebay. they want like $80 ish for it. then I believe it is recommended to have a glass shop adhere it to the glass so it sits correctly. It is on my list to but have more important things to spend $ on first. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Nissan-Glass-Panel-Spacer-73872-01M05/263726281345?epid=1722113266&hash=item3d674fb281:g:-poAAOSwyHJcd1pD
  9. I agree, I recommend crimestopper sp-502 if you want remote start ($99). sp-302 if you do not have remote start. ($79) even if you have the door lock actuator problem (key does not lock all the doors) this will make it so you don't need it. as long as your switch on the door panel works it will lock and unlock you doors. The latest model will automatically unlock your doors if you have the key in the ignition to avoid locking your keys in the vehicle with the remote. I have them in all of my vehicles
  10. the new parking brake cable ended up costing about $80. it was 35 euros and 35 euros shipping. still a pretty good deal for a brand new cable.
  11. yes that is the part I am looking for if you have time can you send me a pic of it. showing any wear or imperfections. and how much you want for it? thanks
  12. Just rebuilding a 1994 se. Have been trying to find some parts. Some of them are getting really hard to find. What part was the most difficult for you to find.? The parts I have had the hardest time finding are. Drivers side parking brake cable. (1994 Rear disc Brakes) ( found it new from France) Abs Pump ( had to tell the wrecker where to find it) 4WD shifter Boot. ( still looking) Don't want to pay $120.00 for it.
  13. the 1994 I just rebuilt the front end on, was not that bad either, however the upper control arm busshings were completely trashed, the wheel bearings were loose and the center link had quite a bit of play. The tires were about done. I thought maybe that the light pull was just tires, I took it in for an alignment before the new tires. that is when they told me about the bearings and the UCA bushings. I figured since I was into it I would do it all. It was not that bad since most of the items were on clearance at rock auto. sometimes a vehicle will steer fine, all the while are wearing out your tires unevenly. a quick check of your tire wear pattern will tell you that though rotting bushings can make your car go quickly out of alignment at any time though.
  14. here is a new one. the guy used electrical tape to tape the single din car stereo to the pocket,. then since he did not have the bracket to mount it in. He used expanding foam to hold it in. I almost drove the car into a ditch and left it after finding that GEM. Took me almost 4 hours to cleanup that mess
  15. one word. allignment. start with all parts involved with your allignment at the same time. get it alligned and then work on the other stuff. if your tires are good . if your tires are in bad shape then you can do the alignment last. but changing all of your bad parts with good parts can make your allignment worse until you get it done. the parts that can effect your alignment are upper and lower control arm bushings centerlink, inner and outer tie rods, adjusters and idler arm upper and lower ball joints inner and outer wheel bearings. I just went through all of this. edit: btw shocks while they may not affect the alignment can ruin new tires if they are bad. best replace them before new tires, if your tires are good right now you can replace the shocks without needing re-alignment Almost forgot, Torsion bars will also effect your alignment, especially if one of them starts to weaken and cause one side to sag.

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