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About Chriskaw440

  • Rank
    NPORA Old-Timer
  • Birthday 11/19/1966

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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1990 SE in great shape. Mostly stock.... 5 speed. Needs to get some mud on it!
  • Place of Residence
    Columbia SC
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Irmo SC
  • Interests
    weightlifting/fitness, cars, jetskiing, dachshunds, movies, and shot guns-skeet & trap shooting, tons of other stuff too!
  1. Chriskaw440

    Cruise Resume/Accel not working

    if the cruise control isn't working at all....try checking the rubber pad on the brake pedal arm....if it's missing/dry rotted and fell off....then the cruise control will think the brake are being applied and therefore not operate. (there's a cruise control switch on the brake pedal that stays depressed when the pedal is in the full up position) That's what happened on my 1990. Replaced the rubber pad (I just went ahead and replaced ALL the rubber switch pads on the brake and clutch pedals) and problem solved.
  2. Chriskaw440

    could it be the end?

    Just fired it up today to check around while on lunch....still a steady "PULSATING" rythym / misfire throughout the range....vacuum lines seem normal, played around with maf harness...no different. Didn't have time to check codes since its old-school and couldnt find my tiny screwdriver to turn the knob on the ECU.
  3. Chriskaw440

    could it be the end?

    I havent torn into anything. Its not driven much anymore and was running great .... now lately its hobbling along until its warmed up and the gas is good. I'll pull spark plugs soon to inspect though.
  4. Chriskaw440

    could it be the end?

    Lately my 1990 SE engine has started "motorboating" during its warm up and doesn't run smooth until FULLY warmed up.....it sounds like a steady motor boat rythym and is lacking power when trying to drive it. Kinda like only every other cylinder is firing or at least one is low on compression or something. Not smoking or leaking any fluids. All typical tune up items are up to date. runs better once warmed up because the engine parts have expanded to their operating temperature and possibly closed whatever leak there may be? it has 265,000+ miles and original engine. If its sounding like its on its last legs.....she will become a donor vehicle or sold for best offer. I have another newer vehicle now and can't afford to pump money into the pathy and be without a ride while its torn apart or rebuilt.
  5. Chriskaw440

    Why are there no harbodys on this forum?

    Darn I thought he was referring to some hardbody fitness ladies.........oh well.
  6. Chriskaw440

    Rear Wheel Bearing(s)

    New rear U-Joint is on and test driven with no vibrations. whew! Been so long since I did U-joints on a car....I had forgotten how FUN it is beating on the caps until they break loose with a Mini Sledge and socket. Only hit my thumb once. My tip for future U-joint do-it-yourselfers.....once the old assembly is removed and soforth, use a small drum grinder on a drill to clean/grind out the insides of the cap cradles (whatever they're called...) on the shaft and flange. The new joint caps will pop in MUCH easier and still be a firm fit.
  7. Chriskaw440

    Rear Wheel Bearing(s)

    U joints are Inner lock on the main drive shaft....and I pick up my new joints today Now I'll have something to do tonight.
  8. Chriskaw440

    Rear Wheel Bearing(s)

    Yeah I was just given a quote of $250.00 per side. The HUB type on newer cars are so much easier! I dropped my driveshaft at the differential to check the ujoint and it moves freely on one axis but sticks a bit on the other axis...so I'm wanting to replace that which I can do myself of course, but when I look up the parts I see them listed as "Inner lock up" and "outer lock up"....which refers to measuring the size from the c-clip grove inside or outside. Anyone know off hand which ones are on the 1990 rear shafts? I can pull it first and just take it to the parts store to match up but I'd rather know before hand so I can just get them and do the job. thanks, Chris
  9. Chriskaw440

    Rear Wheel Bearing(s)

    Yep that's what I was pretty much figuring given the age of it. I'll be better off paying a shop then....as I don't have pullers or presses. thanks for the info! -Chris
  10. Chriskaw440

    Rear Wheel Bearing(s)

    I feel as though I have a bearing going bad on my 1990 SE passenger side rear axle/wheel.... Is it a huge pain in the ass to do in your own garage? need a press? etc etc. Most cars I have replaced bearings on lately have had the "hub assembly" type that just pop on and off the axle or spindle... I'm thinking mine (with disc brakes) is probably the old school "cut it off and use a press to install new set".... thanks, Chris
  11. Chriskaw440

    Rough Idle

    Ah, sounds like the vacuum line that usually gets knocked off when changing that spark plug back there.....I've knocked it off more than once! idles really rough with out it....slide it back on....back to normal.
  12. Chriskaw440

    Rough Idle

    Hmmm...which vacuum line is for the fuel pressure regulator.....I've been fighting a crappy idle during warm up for a while but figure it's vacuum related....and I probably missed a line somewhere too....along with fixing the cracks in my air tube between the air filter and the throttle body. thanks
  13. Chriskaw440

    so sick of crappy idle issues

    I think thats what I tried a couple years ago but it probably didn't last since it is kinda difficult to get it very clean down in the grooves of the tube and I probably did a lame job if cleaning it lol. That's why this time I just covered IT ALL just to see if it made a difference. It even sounds different since I have a K&N cone style air filter...now it sounds like a jet engine whine....maybe because it's sucking more air directly through the filter....or through another tiny leak.
  14. Chriskaw440

    so sick of crappy idle issues

    Latest update.....and just some gorilla tape (better than duct tape) may have been my fix. Even though I had tried to seal some dry rot cracks in the air intake tube between the air filter and the plenum with sealant, it looks like it didn't stick very well as I discovered when I removed the tube during an inspection for bad vacuum lines. Since the cracks are all inside the 'flexible ribbed area' of the tube, I just cleaned the whole area with alcohol, and wrapped it up tightly with the gorilla tape, covering the entire flexible area of the tube, and put it back in its place. This was over two weeks ago and the idle has not jumped up to the 2,000 rpm range since and over all idle seems much improved. Nothing else was changed. I'm hoping (since everything else has been replaced) that it was just a matter of the engine sucking in unregulated air through the tube cracks. For now the tape seems to be doing the job as a temporary solution....going to give it more time to see. -Chris
  15. Chriskaw440


    The bushing pictured underneath that round "whatever it is" TIMKIN thing, is a bushing for a front end control arm. The cone shaped bushing under that is for the rear end panhard rod (or sway bar whatever..) the other ones shown are for the upper and lower rear control arms (they have a metal sleeve around them) and they fit both upper and lower arms. -Chris

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