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Slartibartfast

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Everything posted by Slartibartfast

  1. IIRC Nefarious (Ekim Naelcm on the FB page) had to screw around with timing on his TD27. Might drop him a line, though I can't say I've seen him post in a while. I tried to find his post (to make sure I was remembering properly) but of course Facebook is a steaming pile of algorithm and couldn't find its own ass if it had one.
  2. Those look simple enough to build, and pretty solid, too.
  3. Wrecking yard, or maybe someone has their old one on the shelf.
  4. No worries, hope it's actually that simple once you get into it!
  5. Control arm bushings would explain the wobbly feeling. Bottoming out sounds like shocks or springs. If the ride height is OK, I'd start with shocks. I put KYB Excel-G shocks on mine and they haven't given me trouble.
  6. I think I've found a winner! They're 1.3" taller than the ones I've got now, which doesn't sound like much until you factor in the leverage. If my math is correct, that should bring the bottom of the hatch up another 7.8", plus whatever I get from fixing the suspension. When all's said and done I might be able to walk under this thing with a hat on. That's probably a weird thing to be excited about, but here we are. I've ordered a set and will post the part number if they work as well as I hope they will.
  7. That's a good question. I haven't heard mine bottom out, but I had a look under it, and I'm guessing it's supposed to have more than 1" between the rear axle and the bumpstop. The parts truck has more like 3.5". I need to get that thing stripped before snow anyway, and those should be easy enough to snag. And yeah, I've got the aftermarket clip-on struts on mine already, so most struts should just pop on. I looked through what Princess had online, and, again, found just larger and just smaller than what I'm after--thanks for the idea though. I'll keep poking around, maybe some manufacturer's got the oddball I'm looking for.
  8. Has anyone found a longer lift strut for the rear hatch of a WD21? I'm fairly tall, Rat Trap's rear springs are stock/original, and I work out of the back a lot, so I hit my head on the rear hatch regularly. Usually it's just the plastic part, but once or twice I've caught my temple on that bottom corner, and I do not want to do that again. My current solution involves walking around like Marty Feldman any time the hatch is open, which is hard on my back, and doesn't always work. What I'd like to do is make the hatch open farther. With the gas struts removed, I got about 10" more travel (measured at the bottom corner) before the hinges/roof topped out (I didn't check to see what actually hit). I took a few measurements and it looks like I can get roughly 3" at the corner for every 1/2" I can add to the struts. Of course the hatch still needs to close, and longer struts are also longer when compressed, so I can only take this so far. The standard struts do not appear to be fully compressed when the hatch is shut, so I think I've got a little leeway to work with. I considered moving the lower pivots up the pillar, to use however much compression is left in the standard struts, but I don't see a way to do that without butchering the pillars, so I'm hoping to find a slightly longer lift strut instead. I dug around on Rockauto, but didn't find a winner. I found a few that are dimensionally close to what I'm after, but their strength numbers are way off (factory replacements are around 110lbs, so I don't trust 90, but 202 would probably break something). I also found a place that makes custom struts, but naturally they're 4-5x the cost of the off-the-shelf OE-replacements. It does occur to me that a suspension lift would also raise the hatch relative to my head. Lifting the truck just to get the hatch out of my face is not my first choice, but it is an option, and my parts car does have lift springs on it. I'm hoping for a simple solution that doesn't involve a helmet or an angle grinder. Anyone else had/solved this problem?
  9. At least it's mostly fixed! The transfer is mounted on rubber, so, yeah, it should have a little wiggle to it. Not sure what you mean by lateral play--is it axial (moving parallel to the shaft) or radial (moving at 90 degrees to the shaft)? In either case, AFAIK those bearings aren't preloaded like wheel bearings, so I wouldn't expect them to be perfectly tight anyway. If it isn't loose enough to trash the seal I doubt it's an issue. There might be a spec in the service manual for allowable play. The CV runout is an odd one. I don't know that it's an issue, but I would not have expected a CV to do that, at least not enough that you'd notice it by eye.
  10. My diesel knowledge is (still!) similarly limited, but I would add checking the water separator if you haven't. Pull a fuel sample while you're at it and look for algae or other goo. Might be worth blocking the EGR to see if that helps--if it's easy to get to, it's an easy thing to rule out. I would not be surprised if the rebuilt pump needed some timing or other adjustment. I have not studied it but do have a copy of the TD27 engine service manual on Dropbox, if that helps (I don't remember where I found it or I'd link you there instead). The place that rebuilt the pump might have some ideas, too. And yeah, get some fresh fuel in there before you try too hard to dial it in.
  11. No worries man! I was kind of surprised the clip was available on its own--more surprised that the temp selector is too! Good luck and let us know how it goes.
  12. Ah, so the clip's missing and the cable sheath is moving around. If you can't find it in the carpet, NissanPartsDeal shows (what I assume is) the correct part as 0922-50410 (snap ring). Not available there, looks like these guys have it though. Neither has an actual photo of it, but from the description, I'll bet an E clip with an ID a little smaller than the cable sheath's OD, thin enough to slide into that groove in the housing, would do the job (or that's exactly what the OE part is, just marked up). Worst case I guess you could just JB Weld the sheath in place with the bite marks lined up to the groove and hope you never have to take it apart again. Looking into it further, looks like the non-aircon models had the cable, and the aircon models had the pot/servo arrangement. And yeah, that pot is where I'd start too, assuming the mechanism checks out (slider goes from end to end when you turn the knob). I'd check those solder joints on the off chance one's cracked, and shoot some contact cleaner into the pot and work it around in case it's just got some trash in it that's preventing a wiper from making contact. (And, yeah, check it with the meter to make sure the resistance rises and falls smoothly and the trace isn't broken.) If the pot is buggered, you might get lucky and track down a new pot using the part numbers stamped into the case, though that's probably a long shot. I guess if you don't mind channeling Red Green, you could work out what its resistance is supposed to be (hopefully its resistance is labelled, or you can find a datasheet from the other numbers on the case), gut the mechanism, and install a standard rotary pot through the face plate. I wouldn't worry too much about the cable wearing through the sheath. It shouldn't have much load on it. Wouldn't hurt to shoot some silicone spray down the sheath while it's apart, though.
  13. Try the HA section in the service manual. Free download from Nicoclub and worth having anyway. I had a look at the '97 manual (because that's what's on my hard drive) and there's a bit about the cables on HA-52. There's a lot of troubleshooting in there, most of it electrical/aircon related, but there is a section for the manual HVAC. The vent direction sounds like something's mechanically busted. Hopefully the head unit, or the cable's come off, though the tight spot could be something that's fallen down a defrost vent and bound up the mechanism. If nothing jumps out at you, I'd remove the cable from the HVAC head and see if pushing and pulling the cable manually makes the vents work. If it does, it's the head. If it doesn't, either it's come off the blend door, or the blend door is buggered. The temp is an odd one. Again, hopefully a fault in the head/cable and not a blend door. There's a valve that's supposed to shut off the coolant to the heater core when it's set to fresh air, doesn't sound like that's working.
  14. Looks like the seller got what he wanted for it!
  15. Again, I don't know crap about the R52, but from what I've read they "judder" before they let go. Probably a good call selling it before that goes--I have not heard good things about Nissan's CVTs. Recently I helped replace the rear wheel bearings in a friend's Honda. The howling noise went away, but now that one noise is gone, we can hear all the other stuff that's worn out.
  16. Unless it's easy to get to, or you have a good reason not to trust the old one, or you're in there for something else anyway, I'd probably leave it on the shelf.
  17. Based on the cartoon in the manual, I still think it's dragging the clutch to transmit only as much torque as it thinks it needs to. Think of it like brakes--they're not just on or off. Slipping a clutch like that does seem a little abusive, but automatic transmissions slip a little whenever they grab a gear (or they'd slam you around), and the clutches in a limited slip diff are slipping any time you're not going dead straight. They're built to take it, and also they're not slipping all that fast, or for all that long. In normal operation, I would not expect the transfer case clutch to have to slip all that much, either. If the system kicks in quick enough in response to wheel slip, there won't be that much speed difference to correct for, and the slippage when cornering shouldn't be much either (similar to how it's not enough to activate the viscous coupling). Driving down the road with mismatched tires may be a different story, if the transfer gets confused and drags the clutch for miles on end trying to correct what it would see as wheel slip. Hopefully the same code that makes the computer pissy about manual hubs would catch on to what was happening and release the clutch before it burned itself out--or the operator would know enough to not leave it in auto mode when running an undersized spare. I imagine the computer is pulse width modulating the solenoid (cycling it on and off faster than the clutch can react to, while varying the length of the 'on' pulses) to dial in whatever pressure it wants. (IIRC this is also how the automatic transmission controls its line pressure.) If it was just stabbing the clutch to full lock, letting off to see if that fixed the slip condition, then stabbing it again if it didn't, I would expect the truck to shudder like the ABS was kicking in. I have no personal experience with this box, so I'm mostly speculating here--as are the people in the thread you linked. If you want to take a deep drive into how this critter operates, the TF section in the service manual is your best and probably only source of accurate information, short of dissecting yours to see what makes it tick, or datalogging the solenoid in action. My old TX10A may be clunky and primitive, but it sure is easier to understand!
  18. Wet clutches are controllable, viscous couplings are not. Viscous couplings are just a stack of plates with thick oil between them that makes it hard for them to move one independent of the other. Half of the plates go to the input, half to the output, alternating, so when the coupling is forced to slip, all the oil across all the surface area of each of the plates (except the two on the ends) fights it. The wiki writeup on them says the oil gets thicker the more it heats up, so the more you beat on it and force it to slip, the harder it fights back. It's got enough slip to avoid torque bind, but it fights back enough to put power down when you need it. It has no external controls. A wet clutch is more like the clutch in a manual transmission vehicle (except that it's soaked with oil). An external force (in this case fluid pressure on a piston, supplied by the pumps, controlled by the computer) clamps the plates together, causing friction between them. Clamp them hard enough and they don't slip at all. It's the same tech that grabs gears in automatic transmissions, and I think it's common in motorbikes and quads, too. Usually they've got a bunch of plates, like the multiplate clutches used in some sports cars, though the exploded diagram for the ATX14A shows a smaller number of plates than I would've expected. Technically the wet clutch could slip when clamped completely up, same as a dry clutch, but I imagine you'd have to hit it pretty damn hard to break the static friction unless it was wore slap out or you were hitting it with way more power than it was designed to take. AFAIK auto mode won't lock the clutch completely, so no, it shouldn't torque-bind if you're gassing it through a corner. The viscous is a far simpler solution, but I imagine it did not play well with the ABS/traction control, or Nissan didn't like its road manners (might be more prone to understeer). The computer-controlled-clutch solution meant they could make it behave however they wanted. I've seen similar computer-controlled wet-clutch transfers in domestics of the same era (BW4405 in an Exploder, NP236 in an S10 Blazer), so it wasn't just a Nissan thing. That is a lot for a filter. If you haven't, google the Nissan part #--if that quote came from a dealer, you may find it cheaper online. If it's like the filter for the trans, it may be more of a screen than a filter, and easy enough to clean out. Worst case, I imagine the transfer case would have to be absolutely shredded to shed enough material to clog the filter. New fluid is a good idea, though. Did a world of good for the TX10A in my '95. Make sure you get the right stuff!
  19. There is no center diff or viscous anything. The ATX14A is a part-time transfer case, so the rear output is always driven directly (1:1 off the transmission, or 2.596:1 in low range). The front output is coupled to the rear output using a wet clutch, like you'd find in an automatic transmission. The clutch is controlled by a computer. In 4H or 4L, the clutch engages fully, locking the front driveshaft to the same speed as the rear one--which is fine off-road, but usually not what you want on pavement. In auto mode, the computer feathers the clutch as needed, squeezing it together harder the more the rear wheels are slipping, the harder you're accelerating, or the more you're engine braking. TF-45 of the service manual has a cartoon explanation of this. Because there is no center diff, there is no risk of all the motion going to one wheel (unless you're in 2H)--but no center diff is also why you get torque bind on grippy surfaces in 4x (also, why you shouldn't drive on grippy surfaces in 4x). This is why auto mode exists. It only grabs the clutch as hard as it has to to keep you going, so you can drive it on dry pavement without torque bind, but if you do find a slick spot, the front end will still pull you through. Basically, they added an all-wheel-drive setting to a part-time transfer case, and all it cost them was one more computer, two hydraulic pumps, and five times as many pages in the service manual. Seriously, the TX10A takes up 30 pages, and the ATX14A takes up 154. It's a neat piece of kit, but good lord is it complicated. They do seem pretty reliable, though, and I'm told the auto mode is nice in patchy snow.
  20. I would be surprised if there are a whole lot of options there. Rockauto lists Zumbrota RTC59276 (reman), but naturally it's out of stock. The part number might turn one up elsewhere, though.
  21. It's not just semis! I haven't had enough rear axles apart to say for sure, but I suspect our greased bearings are more the exception than the rule, at least on older stuff. That Park greaser looks like a great way to go. Much easier to maneuver.
  22. Some axles don't have greased bearings--the bearings are lubed by gear oil by design. I'd be surprised if the rubber in a grease/oil seal could handle one but not the other. I bought a press when I did my rear bearings, and ended up having to make a spline nut wrench and some press tooling from scratch. There's usually a workaround, but I don't blame you for not wanting to break it down more than you have to. Hopefully the grease isn't too washed out and you can just shoot some in. I think I've seen a grease gun adapter that's basically just a zerk and a needle--one of those might let you get into the bearing better. And yeah, no sense dropping the diff if you can avoid it! It's a big awkward chungus of a thing. A friend of mine did the seals on the front diff in his S10 with the diff in place, though those were not nearly as complicated.
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