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Slartibartfast

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Everything posted by Slartibartfast

  1. At least you know you won't have to do the master again for a while! Hopefully the slave doesn't fight as hard.
  2. Did you have them test the new alternator? If the problem is the ripple from the alt getting worse under load and confusing the computer or something, then it should run without stalling if you disconnect the alternator. If it behaves the same whether the alt is connected or not, then it's not the alt. Does the stalling happen from too many electrical loads, or just from these loads in particular? Will headlights + defroster do the same thing as headlights + blower? My first thought was that you've got a weak connection somewhere that's dropping voltage under load. I looked up the wiring for the headlights, blower motor, wiper motor, and engine computer to see what they had in common, and the answer is not much. The blower and wiper do share the same fuse and ground points, but the headlights and computer/sensors do not. If the starter's still working, that rules out loose battery terminals. If the connection where the negative battery terminal bolts to the fender is compromised, that would bottleneck everything in the body harness, without impacting the starter. It's a long shot, but if you run out of things to check, make sure that connection is clean and tight. Annoyingly, the FSM doesn't spec an idle speed in gear. 750 +/-50 in neutral, 700 if the TPS is unplugged. 800+ if the aircon is on. I don't remember offhand what the warm idle in gear is on my WD21, but 600-625 sounds about right.
  3. My dad had an a '07 Fronty. Good rig. Plenty of get up and go. If it's got the slushbox, make sure it's had the SMOD cooler issue dealt with.
  4. I'd trust a car dealer saying something is "just a glitch" about as far as I'd trust a submarine controlled by a wireless game controller. That truck's got the ATX14A automatic transfer case, which has a bunch of moving parts and is controlled by a computer. There's some troubleshooting in the TF section of the '03 manual, which you can download for free here. Diagnosis without CONSULT (Nissan's super-special dealer scan tool) starts on TF-62. That light is supposed to come on key on/engine off, then turn off once the engine is going. If it stays on, or flickers, it's trying to tell you that something is wrong, and the manual shows how to track down what it's unhappy about. Depending on the fault, it could be an easy fix, or not.
  5. @Frenchy, did the Lares 210 fit yours? I just tried to install mine, and it's all wrong. 65mm bolt spacing instead of 60, and the splined hole is too small (15mm vs just over 17). Luckily I tested it on the shaft from the parts car before taking Rat Trap off the road. Just ordered the Borgeson donut. Should be here for April Fools.
  6. Looks like either yours doesn't have cruise control, or someone's deleted the clutch safety switch. IIRC the manual trucks have cruise control cancel and starter interlock on the clutch pedal, brake lights on the brake pedal. Auto has cruise cancel and brake lights on the brake, starter interlock through the position switch on the transmission. I replaced the bungs for my cruise cancel/brake lights a while ago when the one for the cruise fell out. The replacements I got were not a super tight fit, and I don't remember having to fight them much to get them in. If they had, I'll be a C clamp and a small socket would've done the trick.
  7. Out of stock at Digikey too, but there are still some on eBay. At least it's a through-hole component! Much easier to solder than the surface-mount I assumed it was.
  8. I think I remember someone sending theirs in to have the mosfet for the IAC replaced. I imagine anyone who can do surface-mount circuit board repairs could do it, if you can track down the specs for the part.
  9. That was getting sketchy in places! Good on you for cutting into it before it got worse.
  10. I don't know the NZ car market, but if most are automatic because that's what most people wanted, that suggests it's less desirable to the average buyer. But if there aren't many manuals on the market, and you find a buyer who wants a manual, then you've got something special. Along the same lines: my dad's got a purple manual Audi Allroad. It's super rare, because only four people were daft enough to order that combination. It would sell for more than the usual silver/automatic Allroad--but only to one of a very small number of hardcore Audi nerds.
  11. Old hoses tend to be stuck on there pretty good. I put a little silicone spray or WD40 on them and try and twist them, see if I can get a pick under them, stuff like that. Worst case, vacuum hose is cheaper than washer fluid pumps--just cut the line and peel what's left off the pump afterwards. If the hoses aren't super short already, you may have enough slack to just push them back on without replacing anything. IIRC the pumps will piddle fluid once the lines are off, so drain the res first if you haven't already. More heat, more oil, and more beating should shift it eventually. I would reach for a little butane torch rather than the heat gun, get a little more concentrated heat on the problem, with less risk to surrounding components than the plumbing torch. I had a look at how the clutch blanking plate is bolted to mine (slushbox), and it looks like the studs just slide in from the driver's footwell. Replacing the studs would not be my first choice, but if the stud gives up before the corrosion does, or you get sick of fighting with it and decide to drill it out, you may not be entirely screwed--assuming the clutch master bolts on the same way that the blanking plate does.
  12. Hopefully just a plumbing issue. If it was gushing fluid, the issue should be pretty apparent once you get under there. Look for the red drips. The first thing I'd check is your cooler plumbing. One hard line (metal pipe) connects to either side of the trans, and runs forward to the radiator. Check where they connect to the trans, and along their length for obvious damage or rot. In the front, you've got rubber hoses connecting the hard lines to the coolers. There's one oil-to-water cooler in the bottom tank of the radiator and one oil-to-air cooler in front of the radiator, on the vertical brace under the hood latch. It's also possible previous owners have added more or larger aux coolers, so follow the hoses. There's enough stuff around the transmission pan that I'd be surprised if it took a hit, but I would still have a look at it while I was under there. I have heard of transmissions puking fluid through the dipstick tube or breather line if overheated. The "snow drift" part of the story makes me doubt that this is the problem, but I have heard of rigs overheating when the rad is blocked with snow. If it's not obvious where it's coming from, you could put a bunch of cardboard down where you think the leak is, add a quart of ATF, and have someone start the engine for a second while you watch. Even if you don't see it coming out, you'll see where it hits the cardboard. This will make a hell of a mess, which is why I would only do this as a last resort. Don't run the engine with no fluid in the trans. When you refill the trans, don't go to the mark on the stick when it's cold. Add less than you think you need (enough that it grabs gears), warm it up, cycle through the gears, then check the stick and adjust as needed. I set mine cold and ended up overfull, and it's much easier to add a little (get a funnel that fits the dipstick tube!) than it is to drain a little out. Good luck!
  13. If you've got an old license plate kicking around, you could cut/bend a heat shield to help protect the firewall while you're cutting/beating/torching. Dumb idea, can you hook a ratchet strap to what's left of the master? I'd be tempted to get a little tension on it, then beat on the ears (to break the corrosion), the master itself (back and forth--if you can get it to wiggle, you're making progress), or on the ends of the studs, to see if you can knock them through the master. Might need to use a drift to get in there. Failing that, yeah, heat may work, or you may be able to cut it free. Maybe get that flex shaft in there, drill a hole in the ear that's seized, then split the ear open with the cold chisel? Figures the seized one is the harder one to get to with a tool.
  14. The clusters are pretty modular inside, so depending on what's dead, you may be able to grab parts from the auto trans clusters and swap stuff around until you have one working unit. There's also a voltage regulator for the temp and fuel gauges IIRC that tends to go out and can be replaced.
  15. I wouldn't call it pretty, but it's grown on me. It's got a friendly look to it. Not like the roundy bloated plastic that came after it, or the angry bloated plastic with Nerf gun accents that came after that.
  16. I bought the steering box for mine from BBB/Vision OE. It's sloppier than the one it replaced, and it leaks, so maybe give that brand a pass. Might try a wrecking yard, see if you can find one that's lower mileage than yours.
  17. I would not expect the battery saver to kick in if the circuit wasn't loaded, but I don't know the R50 body control logic, or BCMs in general. This should be easy to test, though. Roll the window down, shut the door, wait an hour, then reach in through the window and hit the garage door button. Our garage door openers clip onto the visor and have a battery inside, no lockouts whatsoever. I assume the idea is that if you have the remote, it's because you park the truck inside the garage. But depending on your neighborhood, and your tendency to park outside, yeah, I can see why you'd want that circuit dark when the key is out. Surely it wouldn't be that tough to rewire the Homelink to something ignition-switched. I would check the wiring for the temp/compass display, surely that's got an ignition-switched 12v feed that you could tap into. If the Homelink guts are similar to the clip-on clickers we've got, the amp draw from it should be bugger-all.
  18. The alarm on these was an afterthought, so it's pretty easy to remove. Most of it is just plugged in between stuff. Your ignition switch plugs into the alarm harness, which plugs into the main harness--so you just separate the two plugs and plug the switch into the main harness, without the alarm harness in between. Same deal for the power locks, at the A pillar. I think the horn was the same way. A couple wires are scotchlock'd into the harness, so you'll have to pick those apart or cut the wires on the alarm harness side. The parking lights are tapped near the switch, and the dome light is tapped near the fuel door release IIRC. The wires for the hood switch and the siren go through the firewall along with the fog light harness, so be careful which wires you cut there. IIRC the fog harness is also scotchlock'd to the headlight harness near the switch. The alarm brain is the square box under the driver's seat with the hole in the top (or a white sticker over the hole in the top, if that's still there). You will need to remove the driver's seat, the kick panel, the clamshell, and the trim plate along the bottom of the door jamb. Might need to remove the dash panel under the clamshell as well. Didn't take too long when I did it to mine, and my starter circuit has been reliable since.
  19. Not on my own, but I've seen it come up a few times on here. Good to hear you figured it out. I'm not sure if it's the debris covering the slots in the wheel or the shaft flopping around in the dead bearing that does it. And yeah, that #6 plug can be a real piece of work. The right combo of extensions and a U joint can get it, as can the socket in the factory tool kit (assuming the R50 had the same tool kit as the WD21). When I went through mine, I had a reason to pull the intake off anyway, so I went ahead and did the plugs while I was in there. They're much easier to replace when you can see them!
  20. ^Yep, that's the one! Not sure how the link got screwed up, sorry about that.
  21. Sounds like the bearing in the distributor. Here's a writeup for rebuilding it.
  22. Looks like Wes answered this the last time you asked.
  23. I had an intermittent no-start or weak start on mine. It would crank slow like the battery was dead, then crank like nothing was wrong seconds later. Or the starter would run, stop, then try to start again. I replaced a whole bunch of stuff, including the starter, ignition switch, and inhibitor relay, without success. Finally I tore out the alarm and its harness. The harness intercepts the wiring from the ignition switch. In my case, it added about six feet of wire and a couple more connectors to the circuit. The alarm in the round-dash trucks moved the relay up into the dash IIRC, so the wire run should be shorter, but it's still a potential source of trouble. The weird thing was, I had already deleted the alarm brain and bypassed the starter wires in its harness, so the only thing in play was the harness. Still, the issue has been gone since I ripped that crap out. Mine didn't need jumper cables to go, so I don't know that this is the same issue. If you run out of ideas, though, that's what I'd try next. The factory alarm was an afterthought and is not that difficult to remove.
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