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Everything posted by Slartibartfast

  1. Probably overfilled. I overfilled mine when I flushed it. I thought I was being clever and under-filling it, so I could just add a little more to get it to the right level once I warmed it up, but then I warmed it up and it was way higher than I expected. I think I drained half a quart or so. I had a hard time getting a consistent dipstick reading, but I got the level close enough that the dipstick read correctly once, and I decided that was close enough. If it consistently reads high, I would drain a little out and check it again, for peace of mind if nothing else.
  2. First thing I'd check is the ignition timing. Easy to get the dizzy a tooth off, or 180° out if you set it up at top dead exhaust instead of top dead compression. Easy check if you've got a timing light. Check your firing order, too. And be glad it doesn't have an oil pump drive that you have to position so the distributor shaft will engage it. Had all kinds of fun with that on my friend's Chevy 4.3l.
  3. Looks like the W/D22 pump will work. IIRC the R50 pump is set a few hundred pounds higher, probably to suit the rack and pinion, so I wouldn't bother with that. I would expect a pump off a '95 WD21 to bolt right up. If the old pump died a messy death, flush the hell out of the lines and box consider adding a filter. There's a bit of a screen in the res, but it's not much (and may need cleaning). I replaced a pump on a VW last winter that had run dry and the glitter just kept coming out of that thing. It had a half-decent filter in the res but I added a Magnefine to the return line anyway to hopefully catch the worst of it.
  4. If you can only hear the click inside the truck, I would remove the headlight switch and see if it still does it (rules out the self-cancel mechanism for the turn signals). The sliding contact for the horn could be making noise, though when I've had issues with mine, it was more of a scraping. If it's none of that, have someone work the wheel back and forth while you check each joint in the steering shaft. You should be able to see or feel if one of them has slop in it. There's the one for the tilt column, the one at the box, and a rag joint near the firewall. I would check the collapsible section too, on the off chance. If there's no obvious looseness there, that suggests something in the steering linkage. The only time I've had an audible knock in the steering was when the bolt holding the Grassroots centerlink to the pitman arm came loose. If you've got a Grassroots, check there too.
  5. The EL section of the service manual should have what you need. Diagnosis starts on EL-149 of the '03 manual. Funny, those buzzers were some of the first things I removed from my '93. It had two, both located behind the driver's kick panel IIRC.
  6. Looks like nissanpartsdeal might have what you're after.
  7. I checked part numbers on Nissanpartsdeal and as usual found a surprising number of options for various years. Looks like five or six different tanks, or at least different part numbers. Naturally the descriptions don't give their capacity, just outside dimensions and weight, so, good luck. Looks like the four-banger trucks may have had smaller tanks? I'm not jumping into that rabbit hole right now, but the info's there if someone else cares to go through for each year, trim level, and engine and make a spreadsheet. In any case, yeah, getting a sender from a truck as close to yours as possible in year/trim is probably for the best.
  8. Mechanics who can't be arsed to work on older stuff? Yeah, that sounds familiar. Sounds like a bad fuel injector to me. Probably leaking and flooding one cylinder. I would warm it up, pull the plugs, and see if one is obviously wet or more carbon-fouled than the rest. You can also check the electrical resistance of each injector. The EF&EC section of the service manual should have the acceptable specs and test procedure for that. A fuel pressure test can tell you if fuel is escaping (hook it up, shut if off, see how fast the needle drops), but unfortunately these don't have an easy test point for that. I would also pull the vac line off the fuel pressure regulator to see if that's leaking fuel into the intake. Long shot, easy test though. If you go looking for an injector, keep in mind that there are two kinds in these, marked by either a blue dot or a black dot. Ideally you want a matched set. I've got one mismatched injector in mine (repair by a previous owner) and it doesn't seem to care. Avoid the cheap Chinese ones, Cuong had a hell of a time with a set of those recently. EGR stuck open will make an engine run like crap, but not just on one cylinder, and I wouldn't expect it to show up and go away again on warm starts the way yours is doing. If you reach under the top hat of the valve, you can push up on the diaphragm to open the valve and check that it moves freely. They do tend to accumulate carbon inside.
  9. There's the white electrical plug for the wiper motor itself, on the flat gearbox part of the motor, is that what you're looking at? I don't see any other relays hanging off mine. That plug does look a little dark and nasty on mine, but I think that's just the grease that's supposed to protect the connections.
  10. The brown box hanging off the wiper motor ( this guy ) is the intermittent wiper amp. Shouldn't have anything to do with the starting circuit.
  11. Interesting. Looks like '99 and up treat the transfer gear as a unit that you replace whole if it's out of spec. '96, '97, and '98 show an exploded diagram, assembly instructions, and lube specs. The '96 manual calls for multi-purpose NGLI #2 lithium soap base grease, but they recalled this almost immediately due to the lube getting so stiff in extreme cold that "some drivers would have difficulty in turning the wheel." So, yeah, not that, then. The '97 and '98 manuals call for "One Luber SG #00" for the gears, though they spec MULTEMP PS #2 for the output shaft thrust bearing. I don't know enough about grease compatibility to speculate how well either lube would mix with the Lucas. As much as I don't like the idea of non-rebuildable units, the later manuals may have a point on this one. Fresh grease won't fix worn-out gears, worn gears may not adjust the same as new ones, and of course rebuild parts for this critter are discontinued. If you're sure the transfer gear is where your slop is, I would look for a tighter one at the wreckers and swap it out. (PM me if you strike out at the wreckers.)
  12. Yep, sounds like the hatch then. The door lock issue is also pretty common, but unrelated to the dome light. Resoldering the door lock timer might help. My '95 was really bad about this and I never fully tracked it down, but I think it was something in the door. Good luck!
  13. Wiggle the rear hatch and see if that makes the light flicker. It's probably that one. You may be able to fix it by adjusting the striker or shimming it up a little to compensate for the wear in the switch. Worst case you could pull the trim from the inside of the hatch and just disconnect the wire from the latch assembly. On my '95 I gave up on the switch and ran the wire to the tire carrier switch instead, so the light came on when I opened the carrier. I had to add a diode to the circuit, though, to prevent the cluster from somehow backfeeding the dome light and making the tire carrier light on the dash come on when the ignition was off. Failing that, the footwell lights are pretty easy to unplug. If the plug won't cooperate, pull the bulb. LOL at your pothole method. I did something similar one night when something was rattling in the pile of junk I had in the back.
  14. The tech bulletin for the countershaft bearing issue (NTB97-009a, think I found it on Nicoclub a while back) has a drawing of the side of the trans with both fill hole locations marked on it. Looks like the original (too low) is in line with a horizontal rib that runs all the way to the bellhousing; the revised case has the hole 24.8mm higher. The service bulletin says to replace the whole trans case with their revised "countermeasure" case, so, yeah, maybe yours had that done to it, or maybe it's just a later unit. The bulletin says it's for VG30 only, so naturally I have no idea if it applies to your setup.
  15. The square bolt's just a plug. You could add grease there, but I doubt it would do anything about the slop. There's a procedure for setting the preload on the gears in the ST section of the service manual. Basically you tighten the end plate around the input shaft until the shaft takes a certain amount of force to turn. The gears may be worn unevenly (more wear around where they sit with the steering centered), so if you do adjust it, make sure you don't set it to spec in the worn spot so it's too tight everywhere else. Obviously make sure that's where the noise is coming from before digging into it. Hold the input and output shafts while someone wiggles the wheel and you should be able to feel if there's slack between them.
  16. I don't know it by part #, but the picture Google pulls up looks like the one behind the battery. Down the harness a little from the battery terminal, between the battery and the bracket for the steering res.
  17. I can see the blockoff plate on the firewall on mine, and it looks like you could get a wrench on it without too much screwing around. Should be doable with the engine in. No idea about the cable length. Sounds like he used an off-the-shelf one, though. I would check nissanpartsdeal or similar to see if they show different cables for different bed/cab configurations or whether they're all the same. What I did to get cupholders was budge the E brake handle over a few inches towards the driver's seat and put the cupholders next to it. Nissan did the same thing on the R50 (and I've seen a picture of an R50 console in a WD21 with the e-brake budged over to match). I built my cupholders and console similar to Nissan Nut's setup, except I used larger pipe for the cupholders and a 50 cal ammo can instead of the stock console box. (The console lid from a Lexus ES300 fits over a 50 cal can lid surprisingly well, and is much easier on the elbows.) It all works just fine, but it is a little cramped, and I have banged my knuckles on the cupholder while going for the brake. The dash-mount D21 brake would open up a lot of room for activities.
  18. I've had two original masters fail. Both leaked fluid out of the small drilled hole in the side, which as far as I could tell meant that something in the proportioning valve had failed. The service manual doesn't even show that the prop valve can be disassembled. It can, and I did, but it doesn't look like its bits are available. I bought aftermarket masters and scrapped the originals. The prop valves in the aftermarket masters are a different design, with no leakage path to the outside.
  19. I didn't know R50s were available without ABS! Different requirements in different markets, I guess. I don't know if the UAE-spec ABS was the same as the US-spec ABS, but you can get the US-spec service manual here and have a look at the BR section to see what should be where and which components yours is missing (and whether the wiring is in the harness already). The system looks surprisingly self-contained, which is encouraging. Good luck!
  20. That screw sets the idle speed, not the mixture. The idle valves just give air another path into the manifold when the throttle is closed. If you haven't yet, you can download the '90 service manual from cardiagn.com. The EF&EC section should help explain what you're looking at, what it does, and how to adjust it if needed. The '94/'95 manual from Nicoclub covers mostly the same ground, but enough changed from square-dash to round-dash that I use the '90 manual for mine.
  21. The speedo cable drive or speed sensor is on the transfer case anyway. From what I've read, the manual trans from a VG33 Xterra, Fronty, or R50 Pathfinder will bolt right up, and the '96+ transmissions have the fill hole in the right place.
  22. Nissan didn't give these an easy test port, unfortunately. You'll have to tee something in. Fuel pressure's a good thing to check first. If it checks out, watch the pressure after shutting the engine down. Could be you have an injector leak that's flooding the engine and making your warm starts difficult. Not sure what the idle fuel reg you mention is. There's one pressure regulator on these, at the back of the fuel rail. Make sure the vacuum line is in good shape and not full of fuel. If the pump itself was weak, I would expect it to struggle more under load than during startup.
  23. Missed this one the first time around. I would expect the engine part of that donor harness to match what you have. However, Nissan didn't separate the engine harness from the everything-else harness, so you'd have to take both harnesses apart to merge the engine wiring from the donor harness into your current one (unless the early trucks are different). The harness is not an easy part to throw at it, and I wouldn't jump to that unless the existing harness tests bad or is obviously falling apart. To get the tester into the connector pins, wrap a piece of stiff wire (like the lead from a resistor, or a thin paper clip) around the test probe to give it a smaller tip. Seems a little Red Green, but there's a picture of it in the service manual. Speaking of, sounds like you've got it already, but I've got a paper copy of the '87 if you need something out of it, and also a digital copy of the '89 I can send you a link to if you need diagrams for the later system. I don't know the TBI, or the Z24, but I would not expect a two-injector computer to work properly with a one-injector throttle body. Hopefully you kept your original throttle body, or have a source for the computer to suit the throttle body you have (and don't mind modifying your harness to work with the later components if needed). You might also ask on the Infamous Nissan forum if you haven't. Lots more four-cylinder tech over there. Good luck!
  24. Wow! I hadn't even considered that as an option. And, yeah, good thing you caught it before all hell broke loose.
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