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*Updated: 01/17/2022 6:54PM PST


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Everything posted by Slartibartfast

  1. That fender should straighten out alright if you're careful about it. Looks like it's the usual case of the bumper folding back and bending the core and fender. When this happened on my '95 (similar deal, locked it up in slush, though luckily all I hit was a ditch), I took the bumper and fender off and straightened everything off the truck, then had a hell of a time lining the bumper back up. When my '93 took a similar hit from a hoof rat, I didn't want to go through that again, so I pulled the bumper straight-ish with a strap and just sorta shoved the core and fender back to where they were supposed to be. It actually worked pretty well.
  2. I've never had a strut suspension to bits, and I've seen a few threads about strut top issues, but I'm not sure I'd fire the parts cannon just yet. Having it still make the noise when it's on jackstands makes me think it's not load-related, which isn't what I'd expect for either a strut top or a TRE. I'm also noticing you said both tie rods seemed like they were making the noise. Maybe both outer TREs failed prematurely, at the same time, or the noise is transferring really well from one side to the other, but noise on both sides of the rack has me wondering about the rack. I'd pop the outer TREs out of the knuckles and repeat your jackstand steering test. If it doesn't make the noise, steer the knuckles by hand to check the strut tops, and if those seem fine, check it again with one tie rod, then the other. If on the other hand the steering still makes the noise when it's not moving the knuckles, that suggests an issue with the rack, steering shaft U joints or rag, steering transfer box whatsit, or possibly the column. I would double-check the rack bushings, too, though again that seems like a long shot given how little load they're under with the truck in the air. If the feel-stuff-while-it-makes-the-noise test fails, disconnect things one by one until you find the problem. Obviously be mindful of the clockspring while doing this. I think the shafts are keyed so you can't reinstall them cockeyed, but I would still put a paint pen mark on them before pulling them apart just to be safe.
  3. If the trans was rebuilt properly, the fluid level is somewhere close to right, and the torque converter isn't dead (is it the original or did you replace that when you had the trans rebuilt?), it's gotta be electrical. If the "power" light on the dash (or in the E-AT switch, if yours is round dash) flickers when you turn the ignition on, the trans computer is unhappy about something. There's a procedure in the service manual for pulling codes from the trans computer, that's where I'd start.
  4. Check whether the cargo area light is on. The cargo light only comes on if the rear door is open. (At least this is how my '93 was set up; I'm pretty sure '95 is the same.) If the cargo light is on, it's the switch in the rear door, which is a common problem that I had on my '95 too. I've read you can fix it by shimming the striker. Mine was beyond that (or I did it wrong) so I ended up disconnecting the wire and teeing it into the switch for the tire carrier warning light instead. This worked great once I figured out it needed a diode to stop the dome light from backfeeding the tire carrier light on the dash. If the cargo light is not on, it's a door switch. To track down which it is, disconnect one at a time until the lights go out (obviously keep the other doors closed until their switches are disconnected). Start with the one that looks torn up. If it's one of the side door switches, you may be able to get it working again just by popping it apart and clearing it out. Something to try before ordering a new one, or a temp fix until the replacement shows up.
  5. Play free bird! This topic's been beat pretty hard over the years, so you'll likely find several recommendations if you search around a little. They typically have vehicle weight ratings as a guideline for picking a size that'll suit your application.
  6. The switch is a common failure point, but it's got one contact for each filament (left low, right low, left high, right high) so usually you'll only lose one side, in one position. At least that's what mine did. Yours sounds more like the switch isn't getting power. Do the parking lights still work?
  7. The wiring is just spade terminals from behind. It was a dealer install as far as I can tell. Should be an aftermarket-looking relay bolted to the firewall near the passenger's side hood hinge or the wiper motor, and a fuse holder hanging off the positive terminal on the battery. I would start by finding the fuse holder and making sure it's still connected and still has a good fuse in it, then check for power to the relay. IIRC you've got a wire tapped into one of the low beam wires inside the steering column clamshell, running from there to the switch, then from the switch to the relay coil, then to ground.
  8. Check the vacuum lines and the EGR solenoid. If the lines and solenoid check out, have a look at the service manual, it should have a troubleshooting section explaining what'll set that code and what to check.
  9. I've had two OE masters fail the same way as yours. At first I assumed that hole was supposed to be plugged, but after inspecting the stripped-down carcass of the master from my '93, I think it's actually supposed to be open. I can shine a light right through that hole into the bore where the rear brake proportioning valve lives (behind the silver sticker and the big Allen plug at the end of the master). The manual doesn't show an exploded view of the prop, or explain how it works, but as near as I can tell, it's basically just a piston with a spring behind it softening the pressure to the rear circuit (giving the fluid another place to go). The air behind the piston has to go somewhere, and that somewhere is out that vent hole. This works fine until the seal on the piston starts to leak. Sealing the vent hole somehow would stop the leak, but it would also lock up the prop valve, so don't do that. Rockauto has a piston kit for this master, but the picture shows the main pistons only. So that's no help. I'd be surprised if Nissan even showed the prop valve components in the parts diagrams given they're not in the manual, but it wouldn't hurt to check. Aftermarket cylinders have a different style of prop valve (I don't know how they work) and the boss for the vent hole isn't drilled. Maybe that same style is retrofitted into the reman ones, and that's why the hole is plugged off. TL;DR your MC's whupped. Make sure you match the replacement MC to your rear brakes, drum or disk. The listing should say which system the internal prop valve is set up for.
  10. Ah, damn. That sucks. If it's only rotten at the flared end, and you've got a line flaring kit that'll fit the line (the cheap ones for making brake lines usually have a few larger sizes), you could cut off the rotten end with a pipe cutter and put a new flare on what's left. Then replace the soft line with a longer piece to make up for what you cut out.
  11. Looks just like the stock part on mine. Coolant has corrosion inhibitors that are supposed to stop rust. That only protects the inside, though, and only so long as the coolant is good. I found that part listed on Nissanpartsdeal as 13049N, under Water Pump, Cooling Fan, & Thermostat. The actual PN is 13048-12G01. Naturally they don't have it. These guys and these guys do, but I'd buy a piece of exhaust tubing and weld a tab to it before paying what they want. I'd check a wrecking yard first or see if anyone local has a parts truck. The '94/'95 manual on Nico is good, but the '90 manual you can get off cardiagn.com is more accurate for the square-dash trucks. Sadly though neither includes part numbers. They've got model numbers for a few things, but they don't cross-ref to part numbers in any way I've figured out.
  12. Some people really like the VQ. My dad's '03 had plenty of get-up-and-go, but the oil consumption was worrying, and I never liked the drive-by-wire. The VGs aren't as powerful, but they're less problematic, provided you keep up on the timing belt and other maintenance. My dad's Tundra with the 4.7l V8 gets the same mileage as my WD21 with the VG30E. It's kind of embarrassing.
  13. Rubber hoses can crack at the ends. Probably what's happened with yours. While it's off, though, check the hard line for signs of corrosion, make sure it doesn't have a pinhole or something. You shouldn't need to drain the tank, but I would pull the fuel pump fuse and run the engine until it quits to relieve the fuel pressure. That'll stop it from spraying from hell to breakfast, at least.
  14. ^^Born nailed it IMO. The things that endear the R50 to off-roaders (the rear suspension flex, the low-range transfer case) aren't going to show up in an on-road test, and most people who see a stock R50 won't think to take it off-road. Most original buyers probably didn't, either. If your only experience is driving one around town, all you're gonna see is another bloaty 2000s SUV for driving the kids to places they don't want to go, built around the time Nissan stopped giving a damn. RCR can get pretty in love with himself, but he has his moments.
  15. No worries, hopefully those work. Good luck with the old studs. When I get around to mine I'm hoping I can get the welder in there and do it the easy way.
  16. Some do. Sometimes there's an access panel under the back seat, my dad's Audi is like that (it makes up for it with a massive fuel sending unit that barely fits through the hole and some of the most fiddly connectors I've ever worked with). The WD21 pump access door is a little more fiddly than it could be due to the stupid plastic fasteners holding the rear trim (and the carpet) down, and the stupid Phillips bolts holding the cargo hooks (and, again, the carpet) down. Once those are out, though, four 10mm bolts and you've got access to the pump.
  17. I bought a set of studs and nuts from the Acadiana Sports Car Orphanage a while back. I think they were for a 300zx, same size as WD21 but supposedly better steel. PN BK056-0030. Looks like their website is currently down, though, so I'm not sure that helps you any. I haven't gotten around to installing them, so I can't comment on their fitment, but I can tell you that they've got 19mm of thread on the head side, 11 mm of shoulder, then another 19mm of thread on the manifold side, and then a little hex head on the end of that for installation. The thread is M8x1.25.
  18. 1) High range (2HI/4HI) stays the same (1:1). Low range gears only change low range. 2) I'm not sure I understand what whoever told you that was talking about (and I'm not sure they did, either). With a TX10a, in low range, the front and rear driveshafts are locked together by the chain, so one cannot spin faster or slower than the other, regardless of the gear ratio.
  19. Not sure, I haven't done the swap myself. If you want to keep V belts (to use your old accessories), you'll need an adapter for the crank pulley. if you can use the donor's accessories and brackets, you don't need the adapter, so that's one less thing on the parts list (assuming the accessories came with the engine and didn't cost extra). The usual recipe as I understand it is VG33, VG30 cams (not required but recommended), VG30 intake/exhaust/distributor, and mod the oil pan (and possibly the oil pickup) as needed to clear the front diff. I would plan to do the timing belt and just about every seal I could get to while the engine is out, as well as engine mounts, given what happened the last time I went into an engine swap without new mounts on hand. This thread goes well beyond a simple VG33 swap, but if you skip the bits about porting the heads and fitting larger pistons, it's still a good look at what you're up against.
  20. The fuel efficiency isn't great on these to begin with, but sensor issues can make it a whole lot worse. I expect 15/16 MPG from mine. Best I've seen was 19mpg on a long trip on mostly flat ground. If yours is worse than it should be, I would check the oxygen sensor and coolant temp sensor (the two-wire sensor, the one-wire is for the gauge only) first. A bad oxygen sensor can make it think it's running lean, and a bad temp sensor can make it think it's cold as hell, and in either case it'll run rich trying to correct.
  21. The difference is the proportioning valve built into the brake master. The prop valve limits pressure to the rear brakes. Disks need more pressure than drums to work properly, so a disk master may feed more pressure to your rear drums than they need, which could lead to them locking up under hard braking.
  22. Check the air filter box for critters. Might check behind the blower motor resistors, too.
  23. Welding tanks is sketchy, that's why none of the pros would do it (that and not wanting to spend all afternoon chasing pin holes). If it smelled like gas, used-to-be-gas, or whatever the rad shop boiled it with, I'd purge it too.

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