Jump to content

Slartibartfast

Members
  • Content Count

    5,774
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    80

Slartibartfast last won the day on October 14

Slartibartfast had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,146 Excellent

6 Followers

About Slartibartfast

  • Rank
    That worked great, until it didn't.
  • Birthday 06/14/1991

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    '93, mostly stock. Trying to get it reliable.
  • Place of Residence
    Eastern WA
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Eastern Washington
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

15,135 profile views
  1. I wouldn't call it common but it's not unique, either. A wrecking yard's probably your best bet for the engine unless you find someone parting one out.
  2. It sounds like you're closing in on the problem. The blower and stereo should both be on the dash harness, but the wiring for the blower shouldn't have anything to do with the door harness you're messing with. If it's shorting something out enough to take power away from the blower, it should be popping fuses or smoking something else. My guess is that you've got a loose or screwed-up connection in the driver's kick panel area, and moving that door harness is wiggling that bad connection. Looks like there are some body grounds in there as well. I'd give all of that a good look for loose/melted/corroded connections before digging into the whole dash. The Arizona heat may be harder on wiring than what I'm used to, but I'd be surprised if the wiring was brittle and falling apart just from wiggling it. The wiring on my '93 is still entirely usable.
  3. Looks like you may have to swap more than just the intake, but it is doable. Loctite the power valve screws while you've got it apart.
  4. Make sure you loctite the power valve screws while you put it back together, they're known for dropping into the VQ engines and causing problems. Also, the EM section of the service manual (which you can download from here if you haven't) should have all the procedures/torque specs/etc you need for the rebuild. Good luck!
  5. Good luck! One other thing, is yours auto or manual? If it's auto, that might complicate things slightly, as '87 had a three-speed and the rest had four-speeds. I don't know if the MPFI computer and harness would work with the three-speed trans computer. I also don't know that they wouldn't.
  6. This is a multiport swap from an Infiniti, this is a multiport swap from a Z31. Not sure why I haven't seen a thread of someone swapping in the 90+ WD21 MPFI. These might give you some idea of what you're up against, though, and what results to expect. The easy way would be to get an MPFI donor that you could strip of its intake manifold, air filter box, wiring harness (that'll be the fun part), computer, and any other bits and pieces you end up needing as you get into it. You don't need to swap the engine itself unless the old one's whupped. There may be a small difference in the head castings on older VGs (no idea what the cutoff was on that), but I'd expect the MPFI to run just fine on a VG30I either way.
  7. If you have to drop both bars, make sure you label them so they don't get mixed up. And if you can, mark where the adjusters were to save yourself some time when you go to reassemble them! I haven't removed mine but have adjusted them, and getting the truck sitting how I wanted it took some screwing around. When a friend and I dropped the bars on his Blazer, we shot a little paint at the adjusters before taking them apart, which gave us a witness mark of where the adjuster was to begin with (and, because we used two colors of paint, which side the components came from). As always the service manual has diagrams & procedures that can help you figure out where things unplug and how things are supposed to come apart.
  8. I like Great Mistake, hadn't heard that one. We're pretty sure the "LS" trim badge is short for "Leaking Something."
  9. BR-41 in the '97 manual shows the circuit diagram. Looking at the diagram, it doesn't look like the ABS control unit could cause this problem if it wanted to. Its power supply is switched by the ignition, and its only other possible source of power is through the brake light switch. It controls the motor through a relay (looks like there are two relays in a unit right next to the ABS motor, there's a drawing of that on BR-40), which connects the motor to its own fused line off the battery. I'm guessing you pulled that 30A fuse link to stop the motor. Unplug the relay unit and check for continuity across the contacts of the motor relay. If you've got continuity through the motor relay, the contacts are welded together and the relay is toast.
  10. Usually those type of plugs come apart without too much screwing around. Try jamming a small screwdriver between the tab and the other half of the plug and pushing down on the plastic connecting the tab to the catch. That should release the catch and give you some leverage to pry the male end out if it's stuck for some other reason. I'd be surprised if the dash drew enough current to melt stuff, but it might if it's popping fuses. The color coding on the wires matches the PDF as far as I can tell, and the neat ends on the wires make me think it's either original or a very well-done repair part rather than a home hackjob. Looks like the regulator in yours is mounted upside down vs the one in the PDF due to the construction of the heat sink, which would explain the blue and yellow wires appearing reversed. If you're not sure, power it up and check for 12v at one wire and 8v at the other. While the dash is out, you could try replacing the fuse and turning the key on to see if it pops again. If it does, you know the problem is elsewhere. Maybe that's what that crap was! I helped a friend swap the trans in his S10 this summer and we couldn't figure out why one of the plugs wouldn't let go, or what the brown crap inside was when it finally did. Sounds about right for the engineers who managed to design a truck that leaks ATF into the ashtray.
  11. That's quite the hook on your cherry picker! Looks like it's coming along.
  12. AFAIK engine wear and low oil pressure don't generally heat the whole engine, just whichever bearing(s) get the short end of the oil supply, and they don't suffer in silence for long. On an engine that's overheating but not obviously beating itself to death, I'd expect retarded ignition timing, restricted airflow, or a fault with the cooling system rather than a lube issue. I'd be concerned for the trans if it was making enough heat to overwhelm the engine's cooling system, but adding a cooler to the system certainly won't hurt anything. The only time I've had mine overheat was going up a tight windy mountain pass in 100°+ weather with the aircon blasting. Pulling over or turning off the aircon got the temp back down in a hurry, though like OSB said, running the heater is also a good way to dump some engine heat if you need to.
  13. PD-84 of the '00 X FSM shows a 4.3 ratio LSD offered. The '02 manual only shows 4.6 and 4.9 rear ends available, so '00-'01 is probably what you're after (and the '01 manual suggests you'll only find 4.3 gears in a manual trans donor, so good luck). Haven't checked on the Fronty but I'd expect a similar story. Hawairish compiled a table here of breakaway torque for various years. Looks like there wasn't really a good year for the R50 LSD, though they did get worse for '03-'04. Also IIRC the R50 rear end is 33-spline, for whatever that's worth.
  14. Ain't wiring fun? Good job tracking it down. Clearly you're better at it than the last guy!

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please REGISTER to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×
×
  • Create New...