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Slartibartfast

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Slartibartfast last won the day on May 25

Slartibartfast had the most liked content!

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About Slartibartfast

  • Rank
    That worked great, until it didn't.
  • Birthday 06/14/1991

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    '93, mostly stock. Trying to get it reliable.
  • Place of Residence
    Eastern WA
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Eastern Washington
  • Country
    United States

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  1. Wow, that's bad. Good thing you checked out the noise before it collapsed! Funny how Firestone didn't notice the gaping hole. This thread's got a lot of good info and pictures. Nissan's "repair" procedure is probably the most half-assed thing I've seen written up. The reinforcement panel splints over some of the damage and the fiberglass hides the holes, but at best it's a band-aid, and yours is well beyond band-aid territory. This guy had a body shop fix it properly (new panel welded in) for $300. The body shop can probably recommend a good undercoating if you're concerned about a repeat performance.
  2. You remove shims if the camber's too positive, add them if it's too negative. If you lift the front end with the stock UCAs (T-bar crank only), you end up needing a fat stack of shims to get rid of the negative camber. My understanding of the lift arms is that they're a little longer than the stock arms to reduce the number of shims required. If your truck isn't lifted (or isn't lifted much) and you've got lift arms on it, you may need to lift the front end before it'll align. Mine is pretty near stock ride height, with stock arms, and it didn't take many shims to align. I'd have to check but if I remember correctly one side's got no shims at all. If I fitted longer UCAs, it would not align unless I cranked the ride height up to what the lift UCAs were designed to work with. If you're running a 3" lift and no shims behind the driver's UCA spindle, and it's still got positive camber, I'd measure the arms against each other (from the ball joint to each of the bolts going into the frame) to see if one was built wrong. And no, you don't adjust one torsion bar to change camber. That'll just make it crooked. Adjust both bars to get the height where you want it, get it level, test drive and readjust as needed because they settle, then adjust your camber.
  3. The one customer image on that doesn't inspire confidence! Hopefully your mice don't like spicy food. Strangely (not that I'm complaining!) the mice here seem to leave wiring mostly alone, with the exception of the one spark plug wire. Otherwise I'd be skipping right over the hot pepper tape and looking for something infused with cyanide or mouse ebola or something.

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