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Slartibartfast last won the day on February 25

Slartibartfast had the most liked content!

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About Slartibartfast

  • Rank
    That worked great, until it didn't.
  • Birthday 06/14/1991

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    '93, mostly stock. Trying to get it reliable.
  • Place of Residence
    Eastern WA
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Eastern Washington
  • Country
    United States

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  1. You can often get away with re-using copper washers, but, yeah, it's not ideal. They deform a little each time you tighten the banjo bolt on them and there's a limit to how many times they'll do that before the copper work-hardens or gets too thin. I doubt the steering banjo nuts have been tightened enough times to kill the washers, so if you don't have replacements ready to go, I would check that the washers and the surfaces they seal against are clean (no chunks of sand or dirt holding one of them cockeyed), maybe clean up the washers on a flat piece of fine sandpaper if it looks like they need it, and see if that does it. If not, or if the washers are obviously hashed when you get them out (dents/cracked/squished), cut your losses and order new washers. I bought an assortment of metric washers online a while back when I couldn't get them locally. If you're not sure which line is leaking, don't feel around for it with the engine running. High pressure hydraulic leaks can mess you up.
  2. There's not a huge aftermarket for these, but have a look at some of the project threads here and you'll get an idea for what people come up with.
  3. The climate control head is right above where you were working, so I would start by pulling the radio back out and looking for damaged wiring or anything obviously loose on the back of the HVAC head. Failing that, I'd check the EL section of the service manual for the wiring diagrams for the heated seats and HVAC to see what they have in common that could've taken both out at once (shared ground point, shared fuse, something like that). Hopefully one or the other leads you to it!
  4. That seems to rule out the bearings. Check that you have the auto hub clutches stacked right. It's been a while since I messed with auto hubs (and it seems unlikely you would've messed it up on both sides), but I would check the exploded diagram in the service manual against what you've got and make sure everything's as it should be. I downloaded an '89 manual ages ago and can't remember where I got it, so I've got it on Dropbox now. The hub assembly is shown on FA-16. Another dumb thing to try, do the auto hubs fit over the ends of your axles? There are 27 spline and 28 spline axles for these, and I've been told '89 was the cutoff year. I wouldn't expect the spline count to change where the snap ring groove is, but it's something to check.
  5. Ah, that sucks. A friend and I did a bunch of screwing around on his S10 trying to track down a belt squeak. Finally we realized he hadn't gotten the steering pump pulley lined up quite right when he replaced the pump. It was some kind of press-fit BS IIRC and it just wasn't seated all the way, or it was seated too far, I don't remember which. I'm not sure if the edge of the belt was squealing against the PS pulley or the misalignment was causing it to ride sideways across an idler or what, but it did not sound happy, and it took us an embarrassingly long time (and a few blasts from the parts cannon) to track it down. If you don't have a mechanic's stethoscope, you can fudge it with a long screwdriver. One end to your ear, other end to the bolt holding the idler pulley, see if you hear more of a grumble from one than the rest. Obviously look out for the fan and belts while doing this. You can also try wiggling pulleys with the belt off to see if any of them flop around or feel crunchy. And yeah, having everything on one belt makes it tough to work out which one is making the noise.
  6. That Ford Patrol is hilarious. Yeah, just slap a badge on it, nobody will notice it's not really a Ford. Maybe pull the side cladding off, too. Yeah, there we go. Totally different. At least the Guangcurysan Quilladong isn't insecure about being a minivan.
  7. If it's not the usual ignition suspects, either it's the distributor like Adam said, or it's not spark. If having the EGR disconnected made it run better, I would check that the EGRC solenoid is hooked up and functional and the EGR valve isn't leaking.
  8. Sucks about the title and the hoops! The front brakes are harder than they should be, but not, like, Jaguar-inboard-brakes difficult. They're captive rotors, meaning you have to take the wheel hub off to get to them. They're bolted to the back of the hub. Good time to repack your wheel bearings and do the seals. The rears are conventional and should pull right off, unless they're rusted to the hubs, in which case they'll fight you and you'll need some heating and beating to get them off. They're disks and drums in one, drums for the parking brake, which you might need to back off to free it up if the drum is worn. The parking brake drums aren't self-adjusting, so you'll have to do that manually afterwards. I bought a new set of shoes for mine but discovered that the originals were still in good shape, just not adjusted anywhere near right. If you're just bleeding the brakes to flush the fluid, it's not that hard, provided the bleeders aren't stuck. Gravity bleeding is pretty easy (just keep an eye on the res!) and if you use a clear tube on the bleeder, you can see when you've got fresh fluid coming out. Do not get air in the system or you may have a fight on your hands getting it back out. I got air in the rear circuit on mine and it turned into an ordeal that made me want to burn it and buy a horse. I have more time than money and a shop to work in, so I'd DIY it. If it's cheaper to have it done than to get fined by your nosy neighbors because hell is a place we pay to live in, have the shop do it.
  9. That's an odd one. Sounds like something in the front end is loose and when the front wheels are pulling, one of them (probably right front if it's pulling left) is moving forward in the wheel well, screwing up the camber/caster/toe on that side and making it pull left. In 2x, it's loaded the other way by drag, and sits closer to where it should be. Normally I'd guess at bad LCA bushings, but if this started after you did struts etc, I'd check your work there first. Maybe the strut top is shifting around? Seems like you'd have a hell of a racket if something was just loose.
  10. Ah. Yeah, there's no buggered like buggered off. Short of making your own you may be stuck until you find another one at the wreckers.
  11. If you've got a code scanner that'll do live data, plug it in and check the throttle position sensor. Press the gas pedal slowly, see if the percentage changes in proportion to where the pedal is or if it jumps all over the place. If you've got a dead spot where the reading jumps around, that could be why the computer is reacting to inputs you're not giving it. IIRC the R50 has the same blinky-lights trans diagnostic system as the WD21, should be spelled out in the AT section of the service manual. Worth running those codes too on the off chance the computer has any idea what's wrong.
  12. You can get the service manual here, it may have ideas on how to do that. Probably needs the dealer's special Consult scanner. If it's going off on its own, it might just be a door switch getting flaky or something.
  13. You could pull the spark plugs and see if one looks richer than the rest (darker soot deposits or, in an extreme case, wet gas), but if it was leaking that much I think you'd be chasing symptoms other than a fuel smell in the oil. IIRC the injector rail and injectors come out together (been a while since I had my intake off); if this is the case, you could run the fuel pump with the injectors where you can see them and look for which one is dribbling (or just pull the upper intake, run the pump, and see if you smell fuel from one of the runners). You might get away with just cleaning the injectors. I haven't had to try that myself but it sounds like there's not much to it. If you do have to replace one or more, check the color of dot on the injectors (under where the electrical plug goes IIRC). Should be black or blue, and ideally you want the same dot color on your replacement(s). That said, my '93 has five of one and one of the other (was like that when I got it) and it doesn't seem to mind. Again, though, do the fuel pressure test first to be sure you're not chasing ghosts. Also, are you sniffing the leak or the dipstick? If the dipstick smells like oil, there's gas in your oil--if it smells like gas underneath, but not on the dipstick, something else is leaking.
  14. Clean rig! And yeah, I hear you on the carrier, they do get in the way sometimes. I've hitched up a trailer and gotten it all hooked up and then realized the carrier's open and won't shut because the trailer's in the way.
  15. Weird that the antenna fuse takes out the stereo, I would not have expected that. Shouldn't surprise me too much, though, as these are the same engineers who mounted the control amp for the WD21 power antenna back by the tail light. Fixing the power antenna on my '93 was probably more effort than it was worth for the two or three times a year I actually use the thing, but I do enjoy how much engineering went into something so unnecessary.

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