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Slartibartfast

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Slartibartfast last won the day on July 9

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About Slartibartfast

  • Rank
    That worked great, until it didn't.
  • Birthday 06/14/1991

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    '93, mostly stock. Trying to get it reliable.
  • Place of Residence
    Eastern WA
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Eastern Washington
  • Country
    United States

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  1. Slartibartfast

    Mushy brakes

    I have replaced all the soft lines! I had braided steel on for a while but the more I researched them, the less I trusted them. They're uncoated and apparently those ones tend to abrade themselves to death under the braid, and I never noticed a difference in braking performance vs the rubber lines anyway. Switching between rubber and braided lines didn't get the rears working, either. At this point I'll probably end up replacing hard lines.
  2. Slartibartfast

    Drivers side rear drum pops! 97 QX4

    I don't know for sure if it matters on an R50, but I've heard of it causing problems on some domestic rigs where one shoe tends to have a longer lining than the other. The FSM labels the leading and trailing shoe separately but doesn't appear to say anything about there being a difference between them.
  3. Slartibartfast

    Mushy brakes

    Tried pressure bleeding tonight with an old inner tube connected to the res cap. I got a surprising amount of air out of the driver's rear (especially considering we two-man bled the SOB twice last weekend), and the rears seemed to grab slightly better (might've just been that I didn't have the wheels/tires mounted up), but the pedal still felt like crap and no amount of pedal pressure would hold the rears against a light tap on the gas pedal. I hooked the front brakes back up (had them unhooked and the port plugged from earlier testing), pressure bled all four (few more bubbles out of the driver's rear), tried the brakes, and after one push they went to complete crap. Looks like the line to the fronts didn't seat quite perfect in the master and fluid blew past it, so now the master probably has air in it again. I hate brakes. I'll be out of town until next week, and the pressure gauge should be here when I get back. Hopefully that'll help me track down what the hell is wrong with the rear system.
  4. Slartibartfast

    Drivers side rear drum pops! 97 QX4

    I've never messed with an LSV so I don't have much to go on there. I guess you could remove the spring between the bracket on the axle and the LSV (if you can without screwing up the adjustment on the bracket) and see if the LSV arm moves freely or if it feels like it's catching on something. The shoes aren't on backwards, are they? I've heard about guys accidentally swapping front and rear shoes and having issues, though I don't remember popping being one of them.
  5. Slartibartfast

    R200A vs R200A...what's the diff?

    And who selected the font for that table?
  6. Slartibartfast

    2001 headlight assembly in a 98 ?

    The R50 got a facelift in between those years that changed the shape of the headlights, so I doubt they'd bolt up without changing a bunch of other parts as well.
  7. Slartibartfast

    Mushy brakes

    The bleeder threads just push the tip of the bleeder into its seat in the caliper, and the tip/seat are what holds back brake fluid with the bleeder closed. The threads themselves aren't the seal (unless you've got the caliper open and a mityvac on it). I suspect the threads in the caliper are what's wearing, not the bleed screw itself, unfortunately. Good to hear the tape works.
  8. Slartibartfast

    Blown/Seeping Head Gasket?

    Odd that they're all swollen. I've replaced a few coolant hoses on my '93 but only because I was in there anyway. I've heard of coolant hoses going mushy from oil exposure but given that your HC test turned up negative and your coolant isn't scummy I doubt it's that, unless the PO did something dumb. Hopefully new hoses are all it needs and the bubbles and level drop are just due to refilling w/o burping.
  9. Slartibartfast

    time for a new FORUM GAME

    heat
  10. Slartibartfast

    Mushy brakes

    I would hope that one of the mechanics this thing had been to would've tried that, or the gallon (at least) of brake fluid I've put through the system over the past few months would've dislodged whatever's still caught in it just by brute force, but it's not like anything else makes sense at this point. I've got plenty of spare reservoir caps so I modded one today to take a valve stem. I'm not sure how much pressure the res will take but I've got spares of those, too. I'll give it a go while I'm waiting on the pressure gauge. I did try a mityvac, but the threads on my bleeders aren't what they used to be and the vacuum just sucked air around them (between the bleeders and calipers). I've read you can wrap the bleeders in teflon tape, but haven't tried that yet either.
  11. Slartibartfast

    time for a new FORUM GAME

    computer (it's not dead, it's just pining for the fjords!)
  12. Slartibartfast

    Z24i Engine Fuel/Mixture issue

    Right! Forgot about that one. Good to hear it's running right with the old parts. Definitely irritating to not know which of the left-over parts are usable and which were the problem, but at least now it's not holding up your build!
  13. Slartibartfast

    Mushy brakes

    It's a dual-circuit system, and yes, the correct calipers are on the correct sides with the bleeders up top. ABS is now bypassed, no change. The line between the prop and where the ABS was has been blown out with compressed air and didn't spit up anything unusual. I didn't blow out between there and the flex line yet. I bench bled the master again, hooked it up, then my dad and I bled the hell out of it. The rear flex lines show little to no squirm when the brakes are applied, though the calipers do clamp (I removed both, put them back on, and they pushed the pads back up against the rotors). Blocking off the front brake port at the master does not change the rear brakes at all. Adjusting the prop valve does seem to have some effect, but the rears still suck no matter where the prop is set. When bleeding, the system sounds like it's pushing air through something, but no air escapes the bleeders, and the pedal does not pump up. I'm ordering a brake pressure gauge. We'll hook that to the master, determine the pressure available to the rears from the master, then check after the prop, then work our way down until we figure out what's eating my brake pressure.
  14. Slartibartfast

    Blown/Seeping Head Gasket?

    The bubbles coming out of your radiator suggest that combustion is leaking into the coolant, and the pudding in the cap suggests coolant's getting into the oil as well (though I have heard of some cars developing similar schmoo from doing mostly short trips and never warming up properly). Odd that the plugs look about the same and the leakdown test didn't pin anything down, though. Maybe the leak only opens up when the engine is warm? You can test the coolant for hydrocarbons to confirm that the bubbles are exhaust gas. You can also heat up a little oil (just a drop from the dipstick) on a piece of foil with a lighter to test for water. If it just gets hot and smokes, it's just oil; if it sizzles and pops like when you drip water into hot bacon grease, there's water in there.

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