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Slartibartfast last won the day on December 31 2019

Slartibartfast had the most liked content!

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About Slartibartfast

  • Rank
    That worked great, until it didn't.
  • Birthday 06/14/1991

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    '93, mostly stock. Trying to get it reliable.
  • Place of Residence
    Eastern WA
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Eastern Washington
  • Country
    United States

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  1. EL section of the '95 manual should have what you need.
  2. Sounds like the speed sensor has quit and the trans computer is trying to tell you about it via the old blinky-lights OBD carried over from earlier models. AT-45 of the '98 manual has the procedure for decoding what it's unhappy about by watching for a longer flash. Looks like each code has its own page reference for further troubleshooting as well. If you don't get anywhere with the blinky lights, and you have an OBD-II scanner, give that a go. Looks like most of the patterns listed also have a DTC associated with them. I don't know whether a cheap code scanner would see codes on the trans computer, or if the DTC numbers mean they'd show up on the engine computer. Won't hurt anything to try.
  3. What change did you see after adding this stuff? Was it having issues before?
  4. Banned for talking crap on my narcoleptic security guard again!
  5. You could go through the filler with a hose if all you're doing is pumping out the old gas, just watch out for the anti-splash whatsit (hinged bit of the filler that the gas pump nozzle pushes aside, it likes to get caught on things). For that matter you could just unhook the fuel filter outlet, put a piece of hose on that, and run the truck's fuel pump to transfer most of what's in the tank into a bucket. Personally I'd want to go for the pump so I could inspect it and the inside of the tank to make sure there isn't crap in there waiting to cause fuel system issues later, but getting the pump out and in again does involve some screwing around. There's an access panel under the carpet, but to get the carpet up, you'll need to remove the rear trim plate (plastic phillips screws that like to slip, best to use a small flathead with as little downward pressure as you can and get a fingernail under the screw head to keep it from slipping back in) and the cargo tie-downs (big Phillips bolts through the floor, I replaced mine with 10mm hex bolts after how much fun the Phillips heads were to remove). I hear you on not wanting to drop the tank, it was no fun at all on my '95, mostly because every fastener on that truck was rusted in place.
  6. +1 on checking the brakes. The fuel would by my main concern before trying to start it. I'd pull the pump and look inside and see how much crap you're dealing with, and decide from there if it's worth dropping the tank to clean or if you can just drain, fill, and send it. Might save you some future issues with clogged pickups/filters/etc. Might as replace the fuel filter while you're at it. Hopefully it's not too bad. My dad and I pulled a tank from a Jeep that had sat outside for about 14 years with a tank of ethanol gas, which had turned into some kind of caustic schmoo that looked like bear crap, moved like taffy, and had eaten a bunch of holes in the tank. Hopefully better conditions and less elapsed time were kinder to yours. Do you know when the timing belt was done last? They have a mileage interval, but time kills rubber too. Unless the belt was getting close to retirement when you parked it, it's probably fine for a first start, but I'd want to replace that before putting miles on it. Not a bad idea to clean out your heater box, too, on the off chance something's taken up residence in there. Welcome back and good luck!
  7. I'm not usually a fan of tuner rims on these, but damn that looks good.
  8. Time to take it off the road until that's fixed. Ain't nobody got time for the rear end locking up at highway speed.
  9. I don't know what would cause that, but it doesn't sound good. The AT Section of the service manual should have some kind of troubleshooting info for that code. Good luck!
  10. I've got Mile Markers on my '93. McBay Performance (online) had the best price at the time. No complaints mechanically but their chrome sucks, most of it has blistered and peeled off the aluminum trim rings. The dials still look alright. I had to modify the hubcaps a little to clear them, I don't remember if the R50 wheels require similar treatment. They were a huge upgrade from my crap-tastic worn-out auto hubs. Your drive flanges are at least reliable, so you may not get as much benefit for the money as I did. Whether it's worth it depends on how you use the truck and what other mods you're planning to do in the future. And yeah, the only real downside is having to get out to engage them. I leave mine locked all winter, so this is only a problem if I get into something I didn't expect during the other half of the year. Even then it's not really an issue unless you're bogged to the frame in pig crap and the pigs have you surrounded.
  11. Looks like the original faulty radiators were made by Calsonic, so if the rad's got a Calsonic badge, it's probably original. There was a lawsuit, a settlement, and a warranty extension, but no recall AFAIK. My dad had a Frontier in that same year range and the dealer advised him to bypass the cooler, but they wouldn't pay for the job.
  12. Looks clean! Hopefully the rust doesn't go too deep.
  13. The temp gauge in my '93 doesn't go to the center, either. The heater's no face-melter, but it's adequate. If the coolant was manky, you may need to flush the heater core. I don't let mine sit and warm up much unless it's single-digits cold out, and it's usually warm by the time I've driven the four highway miles into town. And yes, you can run it without the fan. If you remove the whole fan assembly (blades and clutch), make sure you've got something else holding the pulley to the water pump. #4 being darker than the rest could suggest a leaking injector, which would explain the foul smell and lousy fuel economy. If all you've done doesn't improve how it's running, pull the plugs again and see if #4 still looks richer than the rest, or if it smells like gas. +1 on the oxygen sensor. These use primitive old-school oxygen sensors that pretty much just read "rich" or "lean." When the ECU's in closed loop, it adds fuel if the sensor reads lean, and reduces fuel if it reads rich, bouncing the ratio back and forth across where it should be. The sensor can slow down as it gets old, meaning the mixture strays farther from ideal before correcting. There's a test mode for the ECU (EF&EC section of the manual) that lets you monitor how fast the sensor's switching back and forth. The sensor can also fail entirely and make the computer see a lean condition regardless of what's actually going on, which will make the computer add more and more fuel as it tries to compensate. A fault with the oxygen sensor or the coolant temp sensor would cause an issue across all six cylinders, though, not just the one. I'm happy to hit 16 mpg in mixed driving. I've seen 19 on long flat highway trips. But I have also seen 12-13, especially in the winter. Short trips, locked hubs, screwing around in the snow, that kind of stuff's hard on fuel economy. Add yours running rich and the 15-minute warmups and I'd be surprised if it didn't get lousy fuel economy. Still, at its best, my Pathfinder's mileage is about on par with my dad's V8 Tundra, which is depressing given how much get-up-and-go the Tundra has that the Pathfinder doesn't.

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