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Slartibartfast

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Slartibartfast last won the day on March 26

Slartibartfast had the most liked content!

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About Slartibartfast

  • Rank
    That worked great, until it didn't.
  • Birthday 06/14/1991

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    '93, mostly stock. Trying to get it reliable.
  • Place of Residence
    Eastern WA
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Eastern Washington
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

16,091 profile views
  1. Yep. As much as you can. I wish I still had the shell of my '95 out back, it had a lot of parts left to give, a few of which I could use now.
  2. Looked at a beat-up VG33 R50 that someone dumped near my dad's office. 335k on the clock! Probably not the ideal engine donor.

     

  3. Pretty quiet out here in eastern Washington. Non-essentials are mostly shut down. There are three confirmed cases in the county so far, and it's a big county, and we're at what is currently a pretty remote end of it. We're doing alright, but I'm worried about friends and family. I know a lot of old people and I have family on the west side. My Nana tested positive in her care home and is now in hospice. The family's not allowed to visit. Stay safe out there, and call your old folks.
  4. Well damn, didn't know that was a thing! I probably tried it years (and a few software updates) ago, couldn't make it work, and never checked it again.
  5. Figures. PM me your email address and I'll see if I can get it to you that way.
  6. Yep, PB took a big chunk out of forums, and FB was well-situated to pick up the pieces. The one thing that Farcebook has over forums (apart from the fact that people are already on their platform) is the ease of posting pictures. Drag, drop, done. Here, it's a pain in the ass involving external hosting that generally either isn't supposed to be used for this purpose or requires a paid subscription, and either way they may go dark at any time. (Except Tapatalk, I guess--I haven't tried that but seem to remember hearing it has some kind of image hosting built in?) A database of knowledge isn't as useful when half the pictures are greyed out. I know hosting pictures takes a ton of room, and costs money, and would require constant growth (or pruning, and who's gonna go back and delete their junk photos), but another forum I lurk on for my dad's truck makes it work, and is still very much alive. (It's also covering a much more popular vehicle, so, our mileage may vary.)
  7. Could also be a strut top bearing. Turn the engine off, work the steering manually (key on so it doesn't lock itself), and see if you still hear the noise. If rust is an issue in your area/on your truck, inspect your strut towers as well.
  8. EL-38 of the '03 manual shows how to get those apart, but not how to put them together again. Looks like to get them apart, you push the slider forward (towards the TPS). From that I'd guess that you'd stick it back together with the slider still all the way forward, and the slider would then return on its own to the locked position as the connector seated. Maybe having the slider fully forward lifts the springs that are getting in your way? I didn't even know those connectors were a thing, so that's all I've got. Good luck!
  9. You're already draining the coolant, might as well pull the rad and give yourself some more room to work with. Easier to see, less chance of damaging the radiator if it's not in your way, and more skin left on your knuckles when you're done. If you've got an auto trans, you'll also need to disconnect the cooler lines. You can plug those hoses with old spark plugs (insulator side, not the threaded side).
  10. PM'd. Hopefully Dropbox plays nice. Good luck!
  11. I don't know the 3.5, but that looks like a dowel pin to me.
  12. Parts: everything you can get at now that you won't be able to later. Water pump, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, cam seals, crank seal, water pump bypass hose, thermostat. This is stuff you'll have to pull the belt to fix if it fails later, so you might as well do it while it's easy. When I pulled mine apart, I didn't like the look of my lower rad hoses, so I replaced those as well. Also remember you'll need to top up or replace your coolant afterwards. Tools: Torque wrench, something to hold the cam sprockets when you remove/retorque the bolt (you can use the old timing belt and vise grips like a strap wrench, I made an F-shaped tool from scrap metal that made it easier), a puller for the balancer (duck's foot puller worked great for me, make sure it comes with the right bolts), and something to pull the seals out. To remove the seals, I sharpened the tip of a flat screwdriver, bent it 90°, polished the back side so it wouldn't garf anything, slid the tip between the shaft and the seal so it hooked the seal from behind, and tapped a socket against the handle to pull the seal out (like a slide hammer). There's probably a better way to do it. I also had to buy a 1 1/16" socket to get the crank bolt out because I didn't have any sockets that big at the time.
  13. My dad put up a camera at his office, and not only did the tweakers steal it, they left a "thanks for the camera" note. The Wi-fi system seems like a good idea if you can swing it with your neighbors. Maybe posting pictures of the thieves on a few telephone poles would spook them. You can probably bend the metal back enough for a new lock to seat. I don't know if the back of that panel is any easier to get at than it is on the WD21, hopefully it is. It's a common enough type of damage, you might even find a video guide for how it's done.

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