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Slartibartfast

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Slartibartfast last won the day on December 12

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About Slartibartfast

  • Rank
    That worked great, until it didn't.
  • Birthday 06/14/1991

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    '93, mostly stock. Trying to get it reliable.
  • Place of Residence
    Eastern WA
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1993

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Eastern Washington
  • Country
    United States

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  1. Slartibartfast

    Backup and Rock lights

    I haven't run enough wire to have the gauge quite figured out by eye either, but I can compare the diameter of the conductor to the grooves in my wire stripper and get a ballpark estimate that way. I should probably print that chart and put it up somewhere. Different climate on this side for sure! And thanks.
  2. Slartibartfast

    Underhood Lights!

    That's my video! Looks good Jax. And yeah, OSB, do it! It's so much nicer to work under the hood when you can see what you're doing.
  3. I have no idea what's in there, unfortunately. They look a bit like the grain-of-wheat bulbs my model trains used when I was a kid but they're shorter. There isn't really a base, just a rubber plug with the bare wires from the bulb wrapped through the holes and pressed over a pair of contacts. I've been going through my dash switches and soldering in LEDs rather than tracking down a plug-in option. You have to take the switches apart to get into them. Don't try to take the rocker part out, the tabs will break and the switch will be junk; separate the switch from the back (you'll see the little locking tabs back there) and the bulbs should be easily accessible. I've been meaning to do a writeup when I do the last two (actually my e-at and rear wiper switches), but I have yet to figure out how to remove them from the dash without taking the whole dash out, and I'm in no hurry to do that again. I seem to remember somebody tracked down a Radioshack part number for them at some point. I might be thinking of the bulbs for the climate control, though. Edit: here's a part #. Hopefully the indicator uses the same bulb as the general switch illumination.
  4. Slartibartfast

    Another new forum game - 2 words

    Great White
  5. Had a look at the manual and yep, it's the light in the switch that flashes. The manual has you check the operation of the OD light while you're at it, but just to see if it's working (the "go to" goes to a diagram of the circuit). I had a look at the '90 manual and the dash looks different, but the procedure looks the same. The '97 manual shows the OD light flashing codes. My '93 doesn't have a light in the switch, but it's got an idiot light on the cluster surround that says POWER. I'm not sure about the '95 (been a while since I had a round-dash) but on my square-dash cluster, the 194 bulbs do the backlighting and the turn signals, and a couple of the idiot lights (fuel and battery IIRC); I think the OD light uses one of the little ones. I posted a thread a while back when I was looking for the little bulbs. Hopefully one of the posts there helps.
  6. Slartibartfast

    4x4 light came on all of a sudden

    The manual transfers have trouble disengaging if they're torque bound, but the ATX14A uses clutches for 4x engagement, so it shouldn't have that problem. Again, I'd go through the diagnostics in the FSM and see if you can get any answers out of it that way. Might not hurt to check the fluid level/condition while you're at it.
  7. Slartibartfast

    Backup and Rock lights

    I solder/shrink just about everything. When tapping into a wire, I usually either cut the wire (so I can slide the shrink wrap on), strip it, and solder it back together with the new wire included, or cut the insulation in two places with the strippers, slit between the cuts with a razor, then peel off the insulation and wrap/solder the new wire around the bare spot. The trouble with the second way is that you can't get shrink tube over it, so you're stuck using tape or liquid schmoo; the trouble with the first is that the original wire gets shorter, which isn't really an option if it's part of a harness. Look for the shrink tube with the glue inside. It melts when you shrink the tubing, sealing the joint against moisture and preventing the tubing from slipping off. I think it's the marine grade stuff.
  8. Slartibartfast

    Backup and Rock lights

    Sorry, what I'm saying is that I doubt the small amount of power that's keeping the dome light dimly on would be enough to trigger the relay. It takes a certain current through the coil to close the contacts, and if the smart entry thingus is leaking so little power that it barely does your dome lights, I doubt it would be enough to keep the relay engaged and the undercarriage lights on when they shouldn't be. 9W at 12v would be 0.75A, x2 is 1.5A. If you've swapped the rest of the circuit to LEDs I'd be surprised if you didn't have the headroom for that. The reason I'd tend towards relaying them is just to keep the circuits separate, so that if the lights below the vehicle got damaged and shorted out, the blown fuse wouldn't take out your dome light as well. Does seem overkill for those tiny lights, though, unless you're going full Fast and the Furious under there.
  9. Slartibartfast

    What did you do to your Pathfinder today?

    I don't know the R50, but yeah, if you've got rear drums it should just be a cable tension adjustment. Mine's got rear disks so it's got its own little miniature drum brakes tucked inside for the parking brake, with their own star adjusters. There's also a cable tension adjustment, but it's under the truck on mine, where the cable from the lever meets the cables to the rear end. I thought the shoes were whupped until I took everything apart and found that they had just as much meat on them as the replacement parts, so I just cleaned/lubed/adjusted (having found the adjusters and realized that they were a thing!) and that brought them back to life. I like how the R50 moved the cable tension to inside the cabin. That's actually a really good idea!
  10. IIRC on the round-dash trucks it's the light in the power/EAT switch that flashes. Been a while since I had my '95. I think it's the power light on the dash in my '93. Anyway, yeah, something should be flashing LOL. The big bulbs in the cluster are 194s. I don't remember what the little guys are, though.
  11. Slartibartfast

    Backup and Rock lights

    A relay is either on or it's off, so you wouldn't get a dim glow out of the ground lights. If it's not enough power to light LEDs properly, I'll bet it's not enough power to keep a relay engaged. And having the relay coil giving that trickle of current an easier path to ground might clear up your dim dome light glow at the same time. I'd want to test both theories before drilling holes and running wires, of course. The lights I bought weren't name-brand, but the Amazon ad did claim an IP67 rating. And it was wrong!
  12. Slartibartfast

    Backup and Rock lights

    Seems like you could relay it off the dome light circuit easy enough. If your dome light comes on when you unlock the doors, then yeah, there you go! I installed LED reverse lights on mine a while ago and made a video on it if you want to see how I rigged mine. Great mod, though I can't entirely recommend the LEDs I used, as the housings weren't sealed at all and required a "the bigger the gob, the better the job" application of RTV silicone before they'd keep water out.
  13. The trans computer's in the driver's rear quarter panel (remove the lower cargo area trim to access it). Closest box to the front IIRC. If you think that's a weird place for a trans computer, the box that controls the power antenna's mounted in that same cavity, back near the tail light. Between them is the audio amp for the front speakers (also the one for the rears, but that one makes sense). I have no idea what Nissan was thinking when they laid out the harness. +1 for checking bulbs first!
  14. I don't remember if the TD27 shares a bolt pattern with anything else, but they came in WD21s, so just find the trans it came with and you should be good to go.

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