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Slartibartfast last won the day on February 9

Slartibartfast had the most liked content!

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About Slartibartfast

  • Rank
    That worked great, until it didn't.
  • Birthday 06/14/1991

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    '93, mostly stock. Trying to get it reliable.
  • Place of Residence
    Eastern WA
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Eastern Washington
  • Country
    United States

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  1. Slartibartfast

    1994 SE factory alarm system questions

    LOL yeah, that block of wood isn't factory. Mine had a bracket. I'll dig it out and get a picture later.
  2. Slartibartfast

    Water pump went... early! what else todo.

    Overheating may have contributed to pump failure, but I suspect the pump running dry after that hose failed probably did more to kill the seals. I think I put a Gates pump in mine, it was a while ago though. Replacing the fan clutch while you're already in there wouldn't add any work and might save some aggravation later on (nice to pick when you replace something rather than waiting for it to fail), but I don't think bolting an old clutch to a new pump is going to bring all holy hell down upon you. I reused my fan clutch haven't had a problem with it. If it goes, I'll replace it, but I'm sure as hell not going to tear the timing apart again to replace the water pump at the same time, unless it's due for one anyway or I have some reason to suspect that the pump itself is compromised. As for one component wrecking the other, maybe if the clutch is horribly out of balance it might hurt the pump bearings, or if the pump bearings are shot they might... I dunno, rattle the clutch to death? I'm not sure how they'd support that claim. Maybe that "rule" came from frustration with people bolting a roached clutch to a new pump and complaining that the pump must be defective because their car still overheated. Either that or it's BS from the marketing department. That's usually all you get in a product description.
  3. Slartibartfast

    1995 Nissan Pathfinder speed sensor?

    Well crap, that sucks. I had a look at the service manual and it looks like the VSS signal does go through the cluster before reaching the ECU, so it is possible something in the cluster has gone out. I'd start at the sensor to make sure that's good (should be if it's brand new), then check that the same signal is present where its wires hook to the cluster. Looks like the wires are a straight shot there (with a couple connectors), so you should see the same signal at the cluster that you do at the sensor. You may need to wrap a thin piece of wire around the leads on your meter to poke into the connector. The speed sensor has a white wire and a red wire, and those colors continue to the cluster, though they're in two different plugs just to be that way. Looks like it's pins 42 and 28 (pin layout shown on EL-39 of the '95 manual). Then there's a white wire with a blue stripe in pin 7 that carries the speed sensor signal to the ECU, but given that the speedo's not working, it sounds like the signal's stopping at or before the cluster--probably no reason to check the wire to the ECU. If the cluster is getting signal from the sensor, then that points at the cluster. I've heard of people clearing up tach issues by cleaning and tightening the brass screws on the back of the cluster, no idea if that would help here but it's worth a try (they're electrical connections). If not, the problem's in the wiring between the cluster and the sensor. Hopefully it's not that, wiring issues are a pain. One odd thing is that one diagram shows the VSS as a reed switch, but the diagnostics say to spin it quickly and look for about 0.5v AC, which isn't how a reed switch works. I know my '93 has a reed switch (it's in the cluster on mine, because square-dash trucks have a mechanical speedo with a cable). If the 0.5v AC isn't showing up, you might try putting the meter on resistance, which is how I'd expect to test a reed switch (on/off as it turns). Don't use a test light, reed switches aren't really built for current. The good news is that the cluster's not that difficult to pull. Been a while since I had a round-dash but IIRC it's about the same as the earlier models: a couple Phillips screws holding the bezel in and then four more around the cluster itself, and then a bunch of electrical plugs. Helps to adjust the steering column down as far as it goes so you have room to work. The ECU code checking procedure isn't too difficult (once you wrap your head around it). Might be good to confirm, but I'd be surprised if it told you something you didn't already know at this point.
  4. Slartibartfast

    1994 SE factory alarm system questions

    The stock system taps into the door lock system but isn't integral to it (I removed mine and the door locks work the same as they ever did). The only thing wrong with mine was that the siren didn't work and the PO had long since lost the fob. Not sure if a new one would be more/less reliable than stock, I haven't messed around with alarm systems apart from removing mine. The wiring you'd need for the aftermarket alarm should all be there where the original was unless the new one has other features/needs. TSB NTB 93-036 has the wiring diagram of the stock alarm system, which should identify everything you'd need to wire an aftermarket alarm or to program a new fob into your standard one. I thought I got it from Nico but I can't find it on there now (not listed with the other TSBs in the jumble that is the '93 "manual," unless it's one of the files labelled in Latvian rather than listed by #). PM me your email and I'll send you the PDF.
  5. Slartibartfast

    Where is the Rear wiper switch 1994 SE

    Yep, round dash got the rear washer control moved to the stalk. The plastic trim on the rear door comes off pretty easily and gives you access to the wiper mechanism.
  6. Slartibartfast

    sound diagnosis

    Interesting. I'll have to take a closer look. I should probably pull the dash anyway, I think I've still got fluff in the vents from when the mice got in because it doesn't blow nearly as hard as it should.
  7. Slartibartfast

    sound diagnosis

    Tempting! I'll have to take a long hard look at my dashboard and decide if I really want to pull it all apart again. It was so much fun the last time.
  8. Slartibartfast

    sound diagnosis

    ^Yup, what he said. Temp sensor for the auto aircon. The little grille on the HVAC panel (diagonal slots next to the A/C button) is where it draws air from, there's actually a suggestion in the service manual to check its operation by blowing cigarette smoke at that grate and seeing if it gets sucked in. IIRC the little fan in there runs whenever the truck is powered up, not just with the hvac in auto mode. It shouldn't be whistling, though. Sounds like the little fan in there might be on its way out, or there's something restricting the tube. Mine makes a slight ticking sound as the fan runs and that's it. I'm still not entirely sure what the point of the auto HVAC is, honestly. I preferred the simplicity of the manual HVAC in my '95.
  9. Slartibartfast

    1995 Nissan Pathfinder speed sensor?

    Yeah, I've heard they're not fun to remove. Good luck! Don't throw away what's left of the old one just yet, IIRC you might need the gear off of it.
  10. Slartibartfast

    '87 P/F vg30i to vg33e engine swap

    Cool, sounds like you're set then, provided it's just a sniffer test and they don't open the hood. I've been considering a similar mod on an '87 Ford F150 (300-6) to get rid of the janky speed density EFI that I'm not convinced ever worked properly. No smog checks out here and it can't help but run better than it does now! Here's the link to James's writeup. I guess the advantage to the HEI is that it gives you a vacuum advance. I've read that the TBI system's timing is locked at 12° under all conditions but haven't checked the manual to confirm. Good to hear you can get it working with the stock dizzy, though. Probably wouldn't be hard to upgrade down the line if you wanted to. You might see if you can find a privately owned wrecker (not a chain), possibly one a ways out of town. There's an old yard near where I used to live that doesn't have much newer stuff, mostly 80s, 90s, some stripped-out 70s stuff, some even older towards the back fence. You too man, let us know how it goes!
  11. This picture (from a listing for a full cylinder) shows the one Phillips screw holding the switch in place (top right image, it's down under where the wires are soldered on when it's mounted on the truck). The switch itself looks like this, if that helps. I remember I thought I was in for a fight on mine until I moved the wires and discovered the screw behind them. It took me longer to route the wiring back through than it did to install the switch. Hopefully Nissan didn't do something weird on yours. I think the Binky episode is this one. Doesn't look like they say which parts they used, though they do show what look like Sumitomo connectors around the 29 minute mark (and mention earlier that the harness they're using does use Sumitomo plugs, among others). They didn't mention the sourcing, unfortunately. Last ditch you could use the pigtail from your old starter switch and cut the others you need off a loom at the wreckers, and then splice those to the pigtails for the Easyguard. Yes, they're splices, but they're not splices into the original harness, so they can be unplugged if something goes wrong. Now that I'm thinking about it, though, why do you need to tap into the brake and clutch switches in the first place? The truck's already got a starter interlock on the clutch, between the ignition switch and the starter, which should work the same with the Easyguard as it does with the factory switch. It should even have a rocker switch on the dash to turn the interlock off if needed (I think all years had that?). I'd just loop those wires at the box so it thinks the clutch is always depressed and leave the factory interlock in place. Otherwise you'd have to butcher the factory harness to bypass the old interlock, or you'd have two interlocks on the same circuit to try and troubleshoot later and a switch on the dash that doesn't do anything. And what does it need a brake pedal feed for? Unless it needs that signal for programming the keys or something, I'd just loop that one, too. Otherwise you'd have to make some kind of tee harness off one of the switches on the pedal (one for the brake lights and one to cancel the cruise control), and then I'd be concerned about the circuits cross-talking or frying something if the box is expecting a switched ground instead of switched +, or isn't expecting switched power at all.
  12. I replaced just the switch on my '93. It can be replaced pretty easily without removing the whole lock cylinder. The switch itself doesn't hold the weight of the keys, so that shouldn't be a problem. Couple of screws, plug and play. If you have to remove the whole cylinder, you have to drill out the fasteners. The physical lock also controls the steering lock, so if you remove the physical lock to fit the Easyguard, you'll also lose the steering lock. I know the guys behind Project Binky managed to track down some Sumitomo connector components for wiring their bonkers Mini (their harness had an odd mix of plugs on it), so it's probably out there somewhere. I'd be less worried about wiring splices (provided they were done right) than I would be about something going wrong with the $40 push-and-pray keyless start button kit.
  13. Slartibartfast

    '87 P/F vg30i to vg33e engine swap

    Why are you planning a carb swap? The VG33 will run with the VG30 EFI, that's why you keep the VG30 intake. If you do a carb swap you'll also need to modify your fuel system and re-do your ignition. JamesRich pulled off a carb swap on his, IIRC he used a milled down Chevy HEI? Might be worth tracking down that thread if you're set on playing this on hard mode. I hear you on the gunk in the plug wells. I pulled the upper intake off mine before changing the plugs just so I could clean out all the rat crap before pulling the plugs. Hopefully it's just got oil in a cylinder or something. When I was doing my timing belt, I was able to turn the crank with a 1/2" ratchet without too much difficulty, so it shouldn't be normal compression that's stopping you. Again I'd probably try and follow what Nefarious did rather than swapping cranks. I'm not 100% on this but I seem to remember his oil filter even cleared somehow? It was a long time ago that I read that, so don't quote me there. You could pick up the accessories and mounts you need (with the exception of the aircon pump, probably best to buy new there) at the wreckers for less than new parts, certainly less than new parts from a dealership. If you swap cranks you'll need the oil pump as well. IIRC you'll also need the oil pump pickup to go with the pan. I'd expect the VG30 pan to fit, not sure about the pickup though.
  14. Slartibartfast

    Cleaned MAF sensor tripped code

    I haven't messed with VQs but from what I've read, they can be real drama queens about having the TB cleaned. Not that it's damaged, but it's drive by wire, and the computer expects a certain angle to equal a certain air flow rate. It learns if that changes slowly (as it gets dirty), but if it changes suddenly, it assumes something is wrong and doesn't want to relearn. I remember doing some kind of reset on my dad's '03 (which involved doing a dance with pedals and the ignition switch and probably something else, it was a while ago) to try and resolve a different issue. Maybe doing that first would make it forget that it's upset, and then it would do the relearn procedure properly? If you haven't yet you can get the factory service manuals here. If you scroll past all the hand-holding for how to use the Consult system, there should be some actual diagnostics and instructions for how to do stuff without Consult in there somewhere. Good luck!

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