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Slartibartfast

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Slartibartfast last won the day on June 30

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About Slartibartfast

  • Rank
    That worked great, until it didn't.
  • Birthday 06/14/1991

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    '93, mostly stock. Trying to get it reliable.
  • Place of Residence
    Eastern WA
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Eastern Washington
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. WD40's better than nothing. If they loosened a little, try tightening them again, see if working them back and forth (with plenty of WD) will loosen them up. Also blow out around them if you can, the plug wells like to fill up with crap.
  2. Ah! That's what you guys are talking about. I completely forgot that the home page existed.
  3. Learn something new every day I guess! Is there a secret handshake I don't know about too?
  4. PM sent. For sure I'll try and get the '87 out there if I do scan it, not much point otherwise. The only difference I can think of off the top of my head is that some of the '87 codes are different, just to be that way. 42 is throttle sensor circuit, 43 is injector circuit, 44 is no malfunction indicated, and there's no injector leak, ECU, EGR, or EGR temp sensor code. Other than that, same as '89.
  5. My '95 was pretty rotten back there. We found a solid donor at the wreckers and they cut a section of floor out of it for us. We didn't strip the interior before welding it up. I'm not even sure we took the seats out. If the rust isn't too extensive, you could do the job pretty easily with flat sheet metal, but don't be surprised if the hole is bigger than you think once you start chipping away at it. My '95 didn't look too bad until I tried to clean it up. I had the same plan as Mr. Reverse for my '93, then discovered that it wasn't actually rotten there, so I left it alone.
  6. If there's some kind of membership here beyond having an account, it's news to me. You can change your title on your profile page, there's an "edit profile" button near the top right of the cover photo.
  7. Yes, '87-'89 is TBI. The '89 is 1,370 pages in PDF form. The '87 doesn't have a page numbering system from start to end (it's done by section, and I can't be arsed to add up all the sections), but it covers a third engine option that the later manuals don't mention, so I'm sure it's longer. It's a single paperback 1 7/8" thick. (Would you believe I haven't found the motivation to try and scan the SOB to PDF form yet.) If you need something in particular, let me know and I'll see what I can find. I can also send you a download link for the '89 if you want.
  8. We're still in phase 2 and cases are ticking up. 71 cases in the county in the last 14 days. Sounds like it got into some kind of long-term care facility in Brewster. Wearing masks is state law for business employees and customers as of yesterday, but it sounds like the cops have no intention of enforcing that.
  9. Nice! I thought '03-'04 had the drive-by-wire, but Nissan's model year changes tend to happen mid-year, so I'm guessing yours is early '03? The strut towers look great. Smoker schmoo's no fun, mine was like that too. I've heard good things about using ozone machines to kill the stank, but I had a clean(er) donor handy, so I just swapped out the smelly bits. When I dropped the headliner over the driver's seat, it was grey where the trim covered it and brown where it didn't. The window's a common issue. There's a procedure to reset it. Looks like the '01-'04 Pathfinder was included in the Takata recall, so, yeah, good idea to check into that, see if it's been done or needs doing. Looks like there are websites where you punch in your VIN and it tells you if you've got the good bombs or the bad bombs. I think the radio in my dad's '03 had a similar issue. I couldn't figure out what was wrong with it, so he bought a used one. That one turned out to have a scratched faceplate and a borked CD changer, so I swapped those parts over from the original and ended up with a working unit. That was as close as I got to figuring out what was wrong with the original one. Good luck!
  10. TPS sounds like a reasonable guess. A code should've lit up the CEL, but he might've found a pending code or seen some indication through live data that the sensor was glitchy or had a dead spot or something. Hopefully the TPS fixes it. My dad's '03 developed a weird bucking issue under load which felt like the throttle was snapping open and closed repeatedly. It was fairly violent. No check engine light, and I don't think it ever threw a code (I didn't have a scanner at the time, so I was going off what the mechanic told us). IIRC the mechanic he took it to replaced the swirl control valve control solenoid valve (seriously) and that fixed it. I have no idea what was wrong with it or why it made the truck lurch like it was trying to shake something off the roof rack. Looks like it's supposed to set a P1130 if that component goes bad, but I don't know what the computer checks for.
  11. I'm guessing you've got the ZD engine? I don't have the service manual for that one, but every other manual I have says nothing about replacing the crank bolt. I'd be surprised if Nissan didn't sell them, looks like they're still making that engine.
  12. +1 to the leakdown test. You can also get test strips to see if the coolant has exhaust gas in it. If the head gasket is bad enough, you can pull the radiator cap, start the engine, and look for exhaust bubbling out of the coolant. You can get a '94/'95 manual from Nicoclub that'll cover most things, but the '90 manual from cardiagn.com covers the square-dash trucks better. That's my go-to for my '93. The engine rebuild info should be about the same, though. The first time I did head gaskets was on a friend's POS Astro van, which probably had 200k on it at the time. It was a miserable job, mostly because there was a van wrapped around the engine and we were working outside in the snow. Other than that, it really wasn't too bad of a job. I haven't been that far into mine. The timing belt will make the job a little more complicated (versus the pushrod 4.3 in the van), but the access will be much easier! I removed the hood before I took my intake manifold apart and would recommend doing the same, it doesn't take long and it makes the engine bay much nicer to work in. If you decide to go the engine replacement route, and don't mind a little extra screwing around, you could do the 3.3 swap while you've got it all torn up anyway.
  13. I wouldn't bother warming it up. Either the plugs will tell you where your problem is or the compression test should work well enough to tell you where the problem is. You're not looking for good numbers across the board, you're just looking for the one weak hole. #6 isn't fun, but it's mostly a matter of it being hard to see. If you've got some extenders and a U joint, or the stock toolkit from under the back seat, it's not too bad to remove. The compression tester took some screwing around before it would thread, partially because it was bent, partially because I wasn't holding it at the right angle. Blow out around the plugs before removing them if you've got compressed air, they tend to accumulate dirt and rodent crap in the wells.
  14. That looks great! Having painted a Ford with a roller I think your paint setup looks perfectly legit. Thanks for the paint recommendation. The shift surround plate looks good too, makes the boot look less like Grandma's purse. Funnily enough I made a similar plate for the roller-painted Ford, though that was mostly to hide the spot where I messed up cutting the vinyl flooring. Good idea with the lube on the stainless bolts, stainless likes to gall if you don't put something on them. Did you have to mod the speaker adapters in the doors? Both sets of speakers I've installed in WD21s fouled enough that the adapters needed trimming. Related:
  15. Nissan has a service bulletin on this (though it's listed for 2005+). It assumes you have their special service tools, but I'll bet you could do the electrical checks they show without their fancy breakout box if you've got a multimeter and steady hands. This source suggests checking ground points in the engine bay and under the dash. The service manual should have diagrams of where modules are, where the CAN wires are run, and where the ground points are. Like the bulletin, the later manuals spend a lot of time walking you through how to press buttons on tools you don't have, but there should still be some usable information in there. Good luck!

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