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Slartibartfast last won the day on August 14

Slartibartfast had the most liked content!

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About Slartibartfast

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    '93, mostly stock. Trying to get it reliable.
  • Place of Residence
    Eastern WA
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
  • Year

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Eastern Washington
  • Country
    United States

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  1. Slartibartfast

    A/T Oil Temp light 2003 LE

    Whining noise isn't a good sign. From what I've read, the temp light tends to come on after the trans is already much hotter than you want it to be. Have a good look at the fluid when you drain it to see if it's got anything in it that it shouldn't. Also check that your cooler isn't blocked! This wouldn't be a bad time to add a better cooler, though, yeah, it doesn't sound like it should've overheated under those conditions. The '03 manual says the sensor should read about 2.5 ohms cold (68°F), about 0.5 ohms hot (176°F).
  2. Slartibartfast

    Blown/Seeping Head Gasket?

    Good to know about the crank position sensor. I just confirmed with the manual, it's just there for sensing misfires apparently. Bummer about the flexplate. If it comes down to it, someone else here probably has a borked engine in a corner somewhere. Doesn't sound like the usual failure mode of the dizzy to me. It's not warmed up, it's not cutting out. The back-and-forth makes me think the computer is trying to adjust for something that's borked and having a bad time. Fuel mixture maybe? Crossed fuel lines are an interesting theory. Excess pressure to the injectors could be making it run pig rich when it's open loop, then back off when it starts listening to the oxygen sensors, then look at the fuel trim and think wait no there's no way that's right and go back to open again. You might see if you can find a picture of someone else's engine bay and see if their fuel lines are routed the same as yours. I'd also pull the vac line off the fuel pressure regulator and make sure it's not puking gas into the intake, though I'd be surprised if the ECU was able to smooth that out half the time. I'd also check the wiring to the oxygen sensors. Maybe one of them's reading funny, so the ECU goes into closed loop, the engine starts running like crap, it goes back to open loop and smooths out, back to closed loop and everything goes sideways again? Seems like it would throw a code for that, though I have been surprised in the past by what an ECU doesn't think is a problem. If your scantool can monitor live data, you might have a look at various things when it's alternating between running right and running like crap to see if you can work out what condition or sensor reading or whatever is changing when the engine starts running like crap.
  3. Slartibartfast

    Blown/Seeping Head Gasket?

    That sucks! Don't beat on the crank bolt. The crank can't move fore and aft enough to matter, not unless something's gone horribly wrong with the crank bearings. If the flexplate is scraping the starter, the flexplate is bent. The three bolts you left in the torque converter may have bent the flexplate equally so it doesn't wobble but I'm guessing it's dish-shaped now compared to what it should be, if that makes sense. Hopefully the torque converter didn't take any damage. It doesn't look obviously damaged in the picture. You've still got a good flexplate on the scrap motor, right? I'm sure you're as excited to pull the engine again as I am to bleed my brakes again but I don't think you're gonna fix this without taking it apart and swapping that out. Even if you could shim the sensor and the starter I'd be concerned about the torque converter sitting forward from where it's supposed to be and possibly causing issues like this.
  4. Slartibartfast

    99 QX4 Intermittent Stalling

    Hmm. I guess if the MAF is flaking out, that could be making it stall. Also have a look at the MAF filaments. If they're caked with schmoo the curve would still be smooth but the values would be wrong. A filthy MAF solved a lot of issues on a friend's Buick, but that one was leaning out and going into limp mode if you pushed it rather than dying at idle.
  5. Slartibartfast

    Blown/Seeping Head Gasket?

    The service manual says that's a theft warning horn. I assume that means it's what makes noise when the car alarm goes off. The WD21 alarms had plastic sirens in a similar position but on the driver's side. Hopefully the flexplate didn't move enough to cause problems apart from being too close to the starter. At least you found the problem before you tried to start it!
  6. Slartibartfast

    1995 Pathfinder XE electrical problems

    The service manual calls that a power transistor. I can see why someone might call it an ignition module if they're used to other systems, but it's way simpler than that name implies. The ECU controls the ignition timing. The transistor just amplifies the ECU's signal so that the ECU doesn't have to power the coil directly. It's basically a relay, except it doesn't have moving parts to wear out. Unplug the coil and test its connector with a meter while cranking to see if power's getting to the coil. I'd crank it for a few seconds just in case it takes the computer a second to work out what position the engine is in before firing the plugs. (IIRC it waits for the sensor in the distributor to see cylinder 1 hit TDC before it starts firing the injectors--I don't know if it does the same for spark.) If you have no power across the pins in the coil, I'd check from the blue wire to ground (like the intake manifold) to rule out an issue on the ground side. If there's no power, and the transistor's good, the ECU may not be getting signal. If you crank the engine for a few seconds and then run the codes, it should throw a position sensor code if that's the case.
  7. 95 Pathfinder XE. You have been helping me diagnose & cure why pathy won't start.

    Here are the pictures of the part, I beleieve  is called the ignition control module, that tested Good at Autozone. is this really  the ignition control module ? 


    Thanks again for yr expertise and patience with me. New coil should be in today and really hoping that is the cure 



    1. Fred3



      Or is this the Power Transistor ? 

      Are they 2 different parts or 2 different names for the same Part ? 

  8. Slartibartfast

    99 QX4 Intermittent Stalling

    If the idle's steady, it makes sense that the timing would be, too. So long as it changes when load changes I'd assume that's how it's supposed to be. It was probably all over the place before because the computer was trying to make sense of the failed regulator barfing fuel through the vac line. I had an intermittent stalling issue with my '93 a while ago where it would stall out while stopped or coming to a stop, but only when warmed up (probably due to lower idle when warm). It was intermittent enough to be a pain to track down. Sometimes just turning the truck off and on again would clear it up, other times wiggling various plug seemed to do it, but then it got bad enough that I could barely drive it. I noticed that the plug for one of the idle air components felt a little loose, so I cleaned it up a little and squished the female pins so they'd be tighter on the male pins. It hasn't acted up since!
  9. Slartibartfast

    Ban the person above you...

    Banned for not having a life!
  10. Slartibartfast

    engine frame chassi ground

    Unless something else on the truck is grounded to the frame, I wouldn't worry about it.
  11. Slartibartfast

    Ban the person above you...

    Banned for shattering my illusions of how you live your life!
  12. Slartibartfast

    Ban the person above you...

    Banned for making decisions based on a rock band with bizarre costumes
  13. Slartibartfast

    time for a new FORUM GAME

  14. Slartibartfast

    Another Forum Game

    ^ can keep the sparkly vampires from above < not looking forward to replacing a steering box v hears the Werewolves of London howling around their kitchen door (better not let 'em in)
  15. Slartibartfast

    Mushy brakes

    I think I found the binding in my front end, and it's not the centerlink. I removed the centerlink to check if it was bent or something, turned the steering, and found that it still bound up like crazy towards the middle even with nothing attached to it. Then I remembered that I read a Beer Garage writeup on adjusting that box and had a go at it at the same time as I put the centerlink in. I didn't adjust it very far, and if felt alright when I tested it then, but apparently the box didn't appreciate it. Backing it off to where it started doesn't help, and even backing it way off only slightly lessens the binding, which is not a good sign. After looking at the exploded diagrams in the manual, I'm not sure that adjuster even had anything to do with steering slop in the first place. So, yeah, apparently I'm a dumbass and I roached my steering box. Anyone recommend one reman over another?

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