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Slartibartfast

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Slartibartfast last won the day on April 17

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About Slartibartfast

  • Rank
    That worked great, until it didn't.
  • Birthday 06/14/1991

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    '93, mostly stock. Trying to get it reliable.
  • Place of Residence
    Eastern WA
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Eastern Washington
  • Country
    United States

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  1. Sucks but I get where you're coming from. Better luck with your next project!
  2. Good to hear you got it, thanks for closing the loop.
  3. VG30 tells you the engine family (VG) and displacement (3.0). The letter at the end tells you how it gets fuel. VG30I is throttle body injection (80s tech), VG30E is multi-port (what you've got). Some engines have more letters to designate other things. A VG30DETT is a VG30 with dual overhead cams, multi-port, and twin turbos. A VG33ER is a VG33 with multi-port and a supercharger.
  4. Yeah, I'm not sure what Mile Marker's doing wrong, but the chrome and the aluminum trim rings do not like each other. I'm waiting for mine to finish peeling so I can paint them and be done with it.
  5. Fleurys makes a lift kit for the R51. Not sure if the 2wd suspension is different enough that it wouldn't fit, or what would it would take to 4x swap it. About the only thing I know about the R51 is that you want to bypass the trans cooler in the rad ASAP because they fail and dump coolant into the transmission (search for SMOD, strawberry milkshake of death, if you're not familiar with this already). A 2WD vehicle with traction control you can't turn off isn't the greatest starting point, but if you're married to it, a locker (if one's available for that rear end) is probably a good place to start. My friend's Astro van is 2WD, but it's got a factory locker, and that thing does better off-road than it has any right to.
  6. Black smoke means it's running rich. +1 for pulling codes as a place to start, though it's entirely possible the computer has no idea what's wrong either. If a sensor's way out, but not out of its allowable range, the computer trusts it and the engine runs like crap because it's calculating its fuel mixture based on inaccurate sensor readings. My first suspect would be the temp sensor, the two-pin one on the upper coolant neck (the one-pin is for the gauge on the dash). Check the plug for any obvious damage or corrosion, and try to start the truck with it unplugged. That should force the computer to guess the engine temp, and if the sensor's hoopajooped, the computer's guess should be better than the data it was getting. (It'll fudge data for a few sensors if they're not hooked up, I think the temp sensor is one of them.) There's also a resistance check in the service manual for the sensor itself (also the procedure to pull codes from the ECU). If it's not that, plug it back in and do the same checks on the MAF and the oxygen sensor (the plug for the O2 sensor is on the passenger's valve cover, three wires, I think it's two white and one black but I may have that flipped around). Idling fine but crapping out when you boot it makes me think the fuel filter's clogged, but that would make it run lean, not rich. I've heard of the fuel pressure regulator failing and sending gas through the vac line into the intake, but it seems like that would cause the most trouble at idle. Also check your spark plugs. Plugs won't cause a rich condition, but if some are richer than others, that might point towards a solution. Also, running extremely rich can foul spark plugs to where they don't work properly.
  7. Not a bad idea to upgrade now if you're planning to chase power later. Not sure I could bring myself to drop $750 on a rad, though. I remember somebody turbo'd a VQ R50 a while back, and his transmission did not enjoy the results.
  8. Don't trust a tire shop to diagnose engine problems. They might know how to mount and balance tires, on a good day. If the FPR or one or more injectors are bad, you'd have symptoms beyond just a P0420 code. If it's not misfiring, falling on its face under hard acceleration, fouling plugs, blowing fuel through the vac line on the FPR, or throwing codes, it's probably just an O2 sensor or catalyst that's worn out after nearly 200k miles. If it's having fuel delivery issues, do the fuel filter first. Do the timing belt (and all associated seals/hoses/etc while you're in there), put it back together, find the truck's actual issues, and go from there. These things don't eat injectors in batches, or even that often. Valve cover gaskets are a good idea, though, those do tend to crap out. The wheel bearings can be cleaned and repacked if they're not chewed up. If you do find a tire carrier, this should help you figure out mounting it. Good luck, they're not as common as they were on the WD21s. Mine's had the ticking since I got it. Broken manifold stud. One of these days I'll deal with it, but this is not that day.
  9. Your gear ratio choices are limited on an R50, unfortunately. Hawairish explained it pretty well here. If you've got 4.3 gears, you could swap them for 4.6 gears, but those are the only two ratios available for the front diff.
  10. This thread might help show what you're up against. Sounds like that lower one is a bit of a bugger.
  11. Redpath88's link above still works for me. It's not Terrano-specific but covers the engine pretty well.
  12. It is amazing how thin the stock wiring is. A lot of us end up relaying the headlights as well, both to improve light output and to reduce stress on the contacts in the switch.
  13. I've got 555 LBJs, no issues so far. I like the boots better than the Moog UCAs I got at the same time. IIRC I ordered Beck Arnley LBJs and they showed up with 555 markings.
  14. Don't splice them straight into the low beam wiring, the headlight wires are tiny and the contacts in the switch are a weak point as-is. Factory fogs were wired with a relay, triggered by the low beam circuit, with a switch interrupting that--so the fogs only come on if the low beams and the switch are both on. I had a couple 55W Hellas on mine for a while. Nice and bright, driving lights rather than fogs though. I angled them out a bit to light up the hoof rats lurking in the shadows. Figures I hit one in broad daylight and broke one of the lights.
  15. The round-dash trucks have an electronic speedo. I did a little digging into speedo issues a while ago in this thread, easier to link that than type it up again (and a few other peoples' experience in there as well, no final "here's what fixed it" post though unfortunately). The service manual (linked in the same thread and handy to have around) has some troubleshooting that might help you narrow down which part you need. There may be other helpful threads kicking around here as well. Keep in mind though that only late 93-95 (round dash) had the electronic speedo, everything before (square dash) has an old-school speedometer cable, so speedo troubleshooting for '87-'93 probably won't help you.

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