Jump to content

Slartibartfast

Members
  • Posts

    7,152
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    223

Slartibartfast last won the day on March 18

Slartibartfast had the most liked content!

About Slartibartfast

  • Birthday 06/14/1991

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    '93, mostly stock. Trying to get it reliable.
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Eastern Washington
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

25,055 profile views

Slartibartfast's Achievements

NPORA Old-Timer

NPORA Old-Timer (5/5)

1.6k

Reputation

  1. That was getting sketchy in places! Good on you for cutting into it before it got worse.
  2. I don't know the NZ car market, but if most are automatic because that's what most people wanted, that suggests it's less desirable to the average buyer. But if there aren't many manuals on the market, and you find a buyer who wants a manual, then you've got something special. Along the same lines: my dad's got a purple manual Audi Allroad. It's super rare, because only four people were daft enough to order that combination. It would sell for more than the usual silver/automatic Allroad--but only to one of a very small number of hardcore Audi nerds.
  3. Old hoses tend to be stuck on there pretty good. I put a little silicone spray or WD40 on them and try and twist them, see if I can get a pick under them, stuff like that. Worst case, vacuum hose is cheaper than washer fluid pumps--just cut the line and peel what's left off the pump afterwards. If the hoses aren't super short already, you may have enough slack to just push them back on without replacing anything. IIRC the pumps will piddle fluid once the lines are off, so drain the res first if you haven't already. More heat, more oil, and more beating should shift it eventually. I would reach for a little butane torch rather than the heat gun, get a little more concentrated heat on the problem, with less risk to surrounding components than the plumbing torch. I had a look at how the clutch blanking plate is bolted to mine (slushbox), and it looks like the studs just slide in from the driver's footwell. Replacing the studs would not be my first choice, but if the stud gives up before the corrosion does, or you get sick of fighting with it and decide to drill it out, you may not be entirely screwed--assuming the clutch master bolts on the same way that the blanking plate does.
  4. Hopefully just a plumbing issue. If it was gushing fluid, the issue should be pretty apparent once you get under there. Look for the red drips. The first thing I'd check is your cooler plumbing. One hard line (metal pipe) connects to either side of the trans, and runs forward to the radiator. Check where they connect to the trans, and along their length for obvious damage or rot. In the front, you've got rubber hoses connecting the hard lines to the coolers. There's one oil-to-water cooler in the bottom tank of the radiator and one oil-to-air cooler in front of the radiator, on the vertical brace under the hood latch. It's also possible previous owners have added more or larger aux coolers, so follow the hoses. There's enough stuff around the transmission pan that I'd be surprised if it took a hit, but I would still have a look at it while I was under there. I have heard of transmissions puking fluid through the dipstick tube or breather line if overheated. The "snow drift" part of the story makes me doubt that this is the problem, but I have heard of rigs overheating when the rad is blocked with snow. If it's not obvious where it's coming from, you could put a bunch of cardboard down where you think the leak is, add a quart of ATF, and have someone start the engine for a second while you watch. Even if you don't see it coming out, you'll see where it hits the cardboard. This will make a hell of a mess, which is why I would only do this as a last resort. Don't run the engine with no fluid in the trans. When you refill the trans, don't go to the mark on the stick when it's cold. Add less than you think you need (enough that it grabs gears), warm it up, cycle through the gears, then check the stick and adjust as needed. I set mine cold and ended up overfull, and it's much easier to add a little (get a funnel that fits the dipstick tube!) than it is to drain a little out. Good luck!
  5. If you've got an old license plate kicking around, you could cut/bend a heat shield to help protect the firewall while you're cutting/beating/torching. Dumb idea, can you hook a ratchet strap to what's left of the master? I'd be tempted to get a little tension on it, then beat on the ears (to break the corrosion), the master itself (back and forth--if you can get it to wiggle, you're making progress), or on the ends of the studs, to see if you can knock them through the master. Might need to use a drift to get in there. Failing that, yeah, heat may work, or you may be able to cut it free. Maybe get that flex shaft in there, drill a hole in the ear that's seized, then split the ear open with the cold chisel? Figures the seized one is the harder one to get to with a tool.
  6. The clusters are pretty modular inside, so depending on what's dead, you may be able to grab parts from the auto trans clusters and swap stuff around until you have one working unit. There's also a voltage regulator for the temp and fuel gauges IIRC that tends to go out and can be replaced.
  7. I wouldn't call it pretty, but it's grown on me. It's got a friendly look to it. Not like the roundy bloated plastic that came after it, or the angry bloated plastic with Nerf gun accents that came after that.
  8. I bought the steering box for mine from BBB/Vision OE. It's sloppier than the one it replaced, and it leaks, so maybe give that brand a pass. Might try a wrecking yard, see if you can find one that's lower mileage than yours.
  9. I would not expect the battery saver to kick in if the circuit wasn't loaded, but I don't know the R50 body control logic, or BCMs in general. This should be easy to test, though. Roll the window down, shut the door, wait an hour, then reach in through the window and hit the garage door button. Our garage door openers clip onto the visor and have a battery inside, no lockouts whatsoever. I assume the idea is that if you have the remote, it's because you park the truck inside the garage. But depending on your neighborhood, and your tendency to park outside, yeah, I can see why you'd want that circuit dark when the key is out. Surely it wouldn't be that tough to rewire the Homelink to something ignition-switched. I would check the wiring for the temp/compass display, surely that's got an ignition-switched 12v feed that you could tap into. If the Homelink guts are similar to the clip-on clickers we've got, the amp draw from it should be bugger-all.
  10. The alarm on these was an afterthought, so it's pretty easy to remove. Most of it is just plugged in between stuff. Your ignition switch plugs into the alarm harness, which plugs into the main harness--so you just separate the two plugs and plug the switch into the main harness, without the alarm harness in between. Same deal for the power locks, at the A pillar. I think the horn was the same way. A couple wires are scotchlock'd into the harness, so you'll have to pick those apart or cut the wires on the alarm harness side. The parking lights are tapped near the switch, and the dome light is tapped near the fuel door release IIRC. The wires for the hood switch and the siren go through the firewall along with the fog light harness, so be careful which wires you cut there. IIRC the fog harness is also scotchlock'd to the headlight harness near the switch. The alarm brain is the square box under the driver's seat with the hole in the top (or a white sticker over the hole in the top, if that's still there). You will need to remove the driver's seat, the kick panel, the clamshell, and the trim plate along the bottom of the door jamb. Might need to remove the dash panel under the clamshell as well. Didn't take too long when I did it to mine, and my starter circuit has been reliable since.
  11. Not on my own, but I've seen it come up a few times on here. Good to hear you figured it out. I'm not sure if it's the debris covering the slots in the wheel or the shaft flopping around in the dead bearing that does it. And yeah, that #6 plug can be a real piece of work. The right combo of extensions and a U joint can get it, as can the socket in the factory tool kit (assuming the R50 had the same tool kit as the WD21). When I went through mine, I had a reason to pull the intake off anyway, so I went ahead and did the plugs while I was in there. They're much easier to replace when you can see them!
  12. ^Yep, that's the one! Not sure how the link got screwed up, sorry about that.
  13. Sounds like the bearing in the distributor. Here's a writeup for rebuilding it.
  14. Looks like Wes answered this the last time you asked.
×
×
  • Create New...