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Posts
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The_Magicians_Eye last won the day on April 3 2018
The_Magicians_Eye had the most liked content!
About The_Magicians_Eye
- Birthday 12/14/1977
Previous Fields
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Your Pathfinder Info
1991 Pathfinder SE, 3 color Monstaliner "paint job", Newer style dash swap, Dana 44 3 link Coilover Solid Axle Swap, 4 link coilover rear suspension.
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Mechanical Skill Level
Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
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Your Age
36-40
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What do you consider yourself?
Serious Off Road Enthusiast
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Model
SE
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Year
1991
Contact Methods
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Website URL
http://www.alvarezmetalworks.com
Profile Information
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Gender
Male
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Location
Syracuse, NY
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Country
United States
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Interests
Welding/Fabrication, Photography, Motorsports, and anything else that catches my interest lol.
The_Magicians_Eye's Achievements
NPORA Old-Timer (5/5)
101
Reputation
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Given that someone blocked me from the FB group I'm not sure why I'm even posting here anymore... I guess I'll be the better man though and continue to update my build thread. Trying to get her wrapped up before the move. Need to finish the lower shock mounts on the rear axle and then I can get rid of the jack stands. Other than the brakes and power steering hoses, the front end is ready to roll. Rock Crawler Mode: Mud Truck Mode: Upper Rear Shock Mounts Lots of math went into this so I didn't have to redo a bunch of work. Everything has to be just right to fit the 12" coilovers back there without cutting up the floor.
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Didn't get nearly as much done this weekend as I had hoped. Either way I'm a little closer. Got the exhaust crossover pipe (Y-pipe) made. It's only tacked up at the moment because I plan on TIG welding this together. The welds will be much smaller and cleaner if I do it that way. One of the issues I have with piecing exhaust together like this is that they usually look rough when mig welded together. There is just far to many joint real close together to have larger welds. It's just personal preference though. Everything beyond this point will be mig welded.
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Other than the shock mounts the rear is all linked up and working great. I still have to finish the axle side track bar mount on the front and the passenger side shock mounts. Once I take care of those few things this will be ready to tear down and start and finish welding everything up. Then address the brakes, ABS wiring to the rear axle, exhaust, and power steering lines for the new gear box. Oh and to paint everything. Smithy should be here next week to help me setup the gears in both the front and rear axles. At that point I should be ready to start final assembly. Oh and I got my tires in today too!
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This is exactly right. There are SOOOOOO many builds out there that have this problem. They ignore critical issues that need to be addressed that dramatically effect the way the truck handles. They just want it to "FLEX". They have no idea that there is so much more to a properly setup suspension than that. People say, "it's a trail rig so it doesn't matter". It does matter though. They just don't know any better because they've never driven or ridden in something that was build properly.
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If someone thinks they can do this for less they are fulling themselves or it's going to be one hell of a hack job. A leaf sprung sas is cheaper but once you get everything dialed in spring rate wise (front and back) and get the steering, driveshaft, gears, brakes, lockers, pinion angle, and caster setup properly, exc... you can still expect to be well above $5000. And that's without upgrading factory parts to much stronger after market parts. $200 here, $500 there, that adds up real damn fast. Buying a built rig isn't really as good of a deal as one would expect either. In about 90% of every case I have ever seen, buying a used rig results in thousands of dollars worth of reparing neglected/abused parts and fixing bad work. The really well built rigs tend to get parted out to help recover more of the money spent to build them and or the expensive parts are used on a new project.