RF600

Since the world ended, no Mayan calendars will be available. Sorry Since all the computers were stupid, we are not actually having this conversation currently. Another year down the drain. Time for more failed resolutions. Seriously, I hope everyone has a good one.

B this is the same brother that I got the wd21 for. Unfortunatley this wd21 was one of those I should not have purchased. It poped a front crank seal while my brother was coming home from Petaluma. He was on 37 a couple miles before Mir Mar exit. Not sure on the spelling. The rear main still leaks despite my effort to stop it. I have rigged up the leaking exhaust. I am tired of throwing money and time at it. Not sure exactly what I'm going to do with it. I do feel better that my brother and his family will have a better vehicle. I'm kind of jealous. The Xterra is nice. Not sure how the Xterra 4x4's perform off road compared to the WD21. No I'm not thinking of getting rid of my Pathfinder. My WD21 is one that I hope to get a lot of miles out of. Pathfinder gods willing.

I have no idea what people are thinking sometimes. I'm helping my brother get a different vehicle. I end up finding a Xterra 4x2 with a manual transmission for a good price. The brakes were a bit wonky. I didn't think much about it. I was sure I could repair what needed to make them work properly. I pull off the drivers side, go to pull the passengers side. I'm looking for the adjuster through the peep hole, and I can't see it. The drum comes off easy. To my surprise there was no adjuster. My thought was who was the DB that touched this thing last. Aftermarket doesn't sell sell the adjuster separately, neither does Nissan. My local pick and pull had 1 Xterra. Thankfully no one needed the adjuster. Parts cost me $5 and gas probably cost me $10. I still got away fairly cheap. People are dumb.

From what I have read on the boards here, the fluid needs to be GL4. Anything else will harm the soft synchronizer rings in the transmission. Even though GL5 can be used in place of GL4, forum members say not to do it.

It all depends on condition. I paid $1300 for my 95 4x4 about 5 years ago. I haven't paid attention to prices lately. The resale on the pathfinder doesn't seem to be as high as other 4x4's. Which is sad because the other 4x4 I speak of pops head gaskets and they are higher priced. Higher than what I would pay. I know that's not much help. Figure out what the weather is like where you are moving, decide what vehicle you need, and go from there.

Anyone traveling, drive safe. Merry Christmas to all.

Check the idle air control valve

That depends on your listening preferences.

This ^. I ran all new wires when I did my stereo install. I didn't run the front speaker wire through the existing loom. I ran new wires and poked through the grommets. Zip tied to the existing loom.

When doing the body lift, make sure to remove the upper radiator hose, where the upper hose connects to the radiator, it could crack. You may also have to rotate it some so the angle doesn't stress the plastic.

If I understand correctly, you set the timing mark at 12 on the balancer, then stabbed the distributor? If so set it balancer at 0 then stab the distributor. Then time it.

Take the wheels off. Sit the vehicle as low to the ground as you can. That will help when using a floor jack. Use some long boards to put against the body to distribute the load. Be prepared for the body to shift some. Like B said, You may need a come along or another vehicle to help shift the body.

Don't silicone the hole on the starter. That is a drain. If you plug it and take on water, well you should be able to figure out the rest. Honestly I didn't read the whole thing. It's really difficult to read without paragraphs. Just trying to help.

I'm not surprised. At least they found out their mistake and you didn't get stuck with any extra fees.

I assume the cylinder is not working? If so take the cylinder out and attempt to clean it. If it is frozen you will have to get a new one and have it keyed to your current key. Until then crawl through the passenger side.

Is there a reason you want 33's? 31's fit nicely and don't require upper control arms when going with a 3" suspension lift. I have a 2" suspension lift with a 2" body lift. Aftermarket wheels and 31" tires. No rubbing. No messing with the speedometer. I'm not trying to convince you to do something different. Just an example.

The last vehicle I bought had personalized plates. I did not want to keep them. I went to DMV and returned 1 plate. Said the other was missing. No questions asked. Issued me new plates and sent me on my way. Police report for a missing plate? I'm sure the police would laugh once you left after asking for a report on a stolen plate. DMV is probably correct saying you need the report. Who's to say it was not stolen or fell off.

When I was looking for a 4x4 I narrowed it down to the 4 runner and a pathfinder. I went with the pathfinder because of the engine. I have not taken it out on a hard core trail. It has done everything I have asked of it. So unfortunately for those who haven't experienced the pathfinder, sorry you are missing out.

I still have to make front and rear bumpers to compensate for the body lift.

Did you fix it? What starter did you put in it? If it is an Autozone or equivalent, it might be bad. They say there parts have a lifetime warranty. You spend your lifetime replacing them.

Wiring isn't that bad. It is time consuming. Can be frustrating. I still get confused on wiring. It's not easy. Glad that is was an easy fix. Hopefully the new harness fixes it. Please reply back and let everyone know.

I forgot something. Ground clearance is relative. Yes you will gain some clearance. The differentials will still be low. The transfer case will still be low. Unless you are looking for a hard core trail rig, it is mostly for looks. IMHO

I did both on my rig. I did the suspension lift first. It was approx 2" lift. I had some wheel issues and put some aftermarket wheels on. The offset was different and the wheel stuck out more. With the 31" tires on the aftermarket wheels it would rub when turning. So I was forced, if you will, to put a body lift on. It was a 2" body lift. Honestly I like the look of 2" suspension and 2" body lift. It also gives a little space between the nerf bar and the body.

Good to hear you got it figured out.

If fluid is leaking the boots are torn. The first sign of bad cv joints is that clicking noise. Sounds like they were bad before the lift. The easiest way is to replace the whole shaft.