RF600

Using the improper thermostat for any vehicle isn't good for fuel mileage. Putting a lower stat in only opens up the stat sooner. You vehicle will eventually get up to normal operating temp. So putting in a different stat doesn't help anything. The lower hose should be cooler than the upper hose. The upper hose has the hot coolant from the engine. The lower hose is after the rad cools it before going back into the engine.

Without looking there is no way to know. The difference is the spray pattern. Others may correct me if I'm wrong, but the black and blue can be interchanged. Buy new, have yours cleaned and tested, or wrecking yard

Not to be rude, why did you drop the front diff? I didn't drop mine when I did the clutch. I had no issues with the front diff getting in the way.

When I replaced mine, they were all flat.

I have a 2" body lift, 2" suspension lift. No issue with ball joint angle. I'm running stock 31's with aftermarket wheels. That the only reason I put of the body lift. The wheels poke out more. The body lift gave the clearance so the tires didn't rub when turning.

I ran new wires to the door speakers. I didn't go through the factory loom. I poked a hole in the grommet in the door and ran new wire through there. Same with the grommet on the body. Other vehicles I have used existing wiring and spliced into the new deck wiring. I haven't noticed a sound difference.

Those little guys are expensive, don't know why.

Learning to weld takes a bit of time. You have to learn the puddle. If it's too hot or too cold. I would suggest taking a class at your local college, if you have one close by. You could probably build the bumper in class? I'm not a fan of the pre runner style bumpers. I won't be doing any major off roading. I won't need a bumper that would give me a lot of approach angle. I will be doing something similar to a stock bumper, in terms of style. It will have angles so it will match the square body of the pathfinder better. I have a 95.

No need to use rtv. Make sure you replace the bolt grommets also.

Possibly the spring is put on wrong? Flip it around and see if it works.

I'm not sure about your specific application. Generally the things like that are for idle assist. Idle up when the a.c. is turned on. Possibly cold idle assist. From the pic it looks like you have a 4 cylinder? They generally won't rest completely on the throttle arm.

Don't be surprised if it doesn't work. Pretty normal for these. My tach doesn't work. If you are worried about shift points, I use the 15, 30, 50mph when shifting. The max torque output in terms of rpm's is 3800k if I remember correctly.

Run another ground for the Maf. I ran mine to the core support where another ground was to insure the ground would be good. I would also check the iac valve.

Mine didn't look as good as yours. I had to weld a couple bearing races to make mine useable again. Anyway it is often a part that is overlooked when doing the front suspension.

I haven't had a chance to start on bumpers for my pathfinder. I don't like most of the bumpers that are produced. At some point I will get started.

Have you checked the controller for the idle air control valve? I believe it is an ohm check?

I'm not sure if you read through my recent thread where I was having some weird electrical issues. Anyway, once you start the vehicle, push in on the key and move it around a bit. Just be careful so you don't engage the starter. I was having intermittent issues, no radio, ac, ect. I would wiggle the key, thing would come back on.

I remember having 2 seperate keys for a vehicle. At this point, those days are over. So I had the door and hatch cylinders re-keyed. Having electric door locks, there is some kind of something attached to the cylinders on both doors. I don't know what they do, but I assume they have to do with turning the key twice to unlock all doors? I broke one. Put some plastic bond on the broken piece. The door locks don't know the difference, it worked well. So all is well. I am back to having 1 key.

So I finally got around to replacing the ignition cylinder. I have not had any issues since. The key is very snug in the new cylinder compared to the old worn out cylinder. Now I have to remove the door cylinders and have them re-keyed. The front doors are easy. I'm sure the rear hatch isn't too bad?

Idle air control valve. There is a controller for it also that could cause the problem. It can cause stalling, rough idling. They act up intermittently. If it starts acting up again, I would look at the iac and or controller. O2 sensors are good for about 100k. They usually get slow as they age. Hopefully replacing the O2 solved your problem.

When I put the lift on mine I made blocks to lower the cables. I used square metal stock. Attached them to the body, then attached the cable to the block. I don't recall exactly, but I think I used 1" stock. I have a 2" lift. So the higher the lift, I would assume a thicker block would need to be used?

Don't pay for the platinum plugs. They are no benefit to the engine. It only makes your wallet smaller.

Please put NGK plugs back in. If you are still having issues after doing that, finish the tune up. Cap, rotor, wires at a minimum. You said the plugs were 15 years old, I'm assuming the rest is at least that old.

I believe you are correct MrE. The radio has not been coming on latley. I have been fiddling with the key, and the radio will turn on. I have ordered a cylinder and will be replacing it next week, hopefully. Thanks for the assistance on this.

Going with the cheap rebuilds is not the best. Sure you get a lifetime warranty. I have said this before. It means you spend your lifetime replacing it. Get one from a Napa store or similar. Either that or take it to a shop to rebuild it.