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ScottZ

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  • Posts

    33
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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    97 SE
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    Choose
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1997

Profile Information

  • Location
    Bellingham, WA.
  • Country
    United States

ScottZ's Achievements

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Reputation

  1. I think that the guy that manufactures the missing link even says that the method you used is the strongest. It looks good.
  2. Not to change the subject of the original post but, what do you call 'great mileage'?
  3. I'm interested in your rear OME springs. PM sent!
  4. My 97 did not have factory filters but there is already a template to cut a hole (slot) for the filter to fit. 5 min with a sharp razor knife and it is just as the factory intended. I put mine in a year ago and don't plan on changing them for another year or so.
  5. I really like the poly bushings. It makes the pathy feel more stable. Plus you only have to do it once!
  6. OK. I thought you wanted to start farthest from the master and work your way closer. No Biggie. I flushed my brakes last month and the pedal feel much more solid. Age of old fluid was unknown.
  7. Shouldn't it go in this order? (Orientation should be as if you are sitting in the drivers seat) 1. Right rear brake <<< This wheel is farthest from the master cylinder. 2. Left rear brake 3. Right front brake 4.Left front brake
  8. Does a 97 SE have a low fuel light? I don't think it does...
  9. Would someone please buy one of these kits, install it, work all the bugs out and tell us if it works! http://www.water4gas.com/home.php
  10. Could you be more vague please?
  11. Townciilian, Isn't your Pathy 2WD? If so, that would explain it. Even with manual hubs unlocked, 4WD Pathys are always lugging around all that extra weight of the transfer case, front diff, and that lever thingy in the cab etc...
  12. My gas mileage sucks too!! In the last year / 10,000 miles I have installed: New plugs, cap, rotor and wires, new O2 sensor, changed oil (of course), changed trans fluid, fuel filter, air filter and installed in-cabin air filter, cleaned MAF sensor, installed warn hubs and have them unlocked 99% of the time. I have also had the fuel injectors professionally cleaned, new timing belt, water pump anti-freeze etc... For the record I'm runnin Yokahama Geolanders 31x10.50s at 35 psi. Did I forget anything? I'm lucky if I get 15mpg! I got 13mpg from this last tank. $65.00! Mostly city driving. On the hi-way, say on road trips, I get about 18 or 19mpg. That's pretty crappy!
  13. Thanks for the replies guys! I figured I would have to change the bushings. My plan is to jack it up, test which ones twist the most and change those first. Probably the lower ones. I will change them all soon. It seems like the split poly bushings from 4x4 parts is the way to go, right? (and i will use a quality grease for poly bushings, I hate squeaks) I have read the other 'death wobble' threads but any tips or tricks are welcome.
  14. Thanks for reading! We are talking about a 97 R50 SE 4x4 180,000 miles. Here are the symptoms.. When I give it gas from off throttle the pathy wants to go UP and to the RIGHT and when I let off the throttle it wants to go DOWN and to the LEFT. This is much more pronounced at highway speeds. It FEELS like it's being steered by a rudder in the back. If you have the cruse on and as it goes on or off throttle it makes the rear shift from side to side. Sounds like the rear trailing arm bushings right?? My plan is to buy the split poly bushings from 4x4 parts and replace them myself. Either have the old ones pressed out or melt/hacksaw them out, then slide the new poly bushings in. My understanding is, I can remove one trailing arm, one at a time, without jacking up the truck. Is this correct? I also understand that the lower arms would be the first to replace if only doing two at a time. Is this correct? Thanks in advance for any advice.
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